These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you are responsible for judging the situation. EASTERN CRAGS NEW ROUTES TO JULY 2016 CASTLE ROCK OF TRIERMAIN, ST JOHN'S IN THE VALE South Crag The Obvious Craic 38m HVS 5a* The obvious crack between the initial groove of Gazebo and the pillar of Via Media provides the start of this eliminate. (5a). Climb the crack and bulge above. Traverse right 1.5 metres and climb the left-hand side of the slab of Gazebo, continuing directly up betweenVia Media and Gazebo and finishing direct up the upper head wall between the two. The initial crack was rendered safe by removal of a very wobbly suitcase sized hanging block. On the upper wall, a couple of moves were made onto and up Gazebo to place some gear then reversed before stepping back left - without this the climbing would be completely unprotected in the upper section. Although it is squeezed in, and although the guidebook pleads for no more variations, and although most, if not all of it has probably been climbed before, it does provide another pleasant climb on great rock for those who have done everything else. First ascent: (09/08/2012) SJH Reid, J Kinnaird LOWER PIKETOE KNOTT CRAG, THIRLMERE PAGE: 106 ALT: 300M GR: 319 169 DIRECTION: WEST FACING 1. Two Step Buttress Right hand. 2. The Inbetweeners Two Step Buttress (RH Variation) 12m S A deceptively steep route that is constantly trying to push you off it. Start as for ‘Two Step Buttress’ and climb into the V-corner (try not to get pushed back out). Climb direct onto the ledge and then finally tackle the overhang on its right hand side with difficulty (again trying to not get pushed off). Top out. First ascent: (26/09/2013) Vickie McMahon (leader), Craig McMahon The Inbetweeners 10m E1 A hard and thin start that threatens to throw you off balance and off the crag till you reach the good holds two thirds of the way up the route. (5a) Start between “Morton’s Boys” and “Gary’s Crack” and climb the wall up its centre on thin holds and side pulls feeling rather off-balance till you reach the good holds 2/3rds of the way up the route. First ascent: (26/09/2013) Craig McMahon (leader), Vicky McMahon 1 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you are responsible for judging the situation. Marathon Man 10m HS Climb jagged crack 2m left of Morton's Boys, which forms right-hand side of S America flake on wall. Scramble over blocks to finish. First ascent: (16/04/2014) Charlie Pickin, Lara Pickin UPPER SWIRL CRAG, THIRLMERE Page: 108 Jacko's Beard 18m HS* Start about one metre left of Ballet Mecanique at a slight overhang next to a holly tree. Follow the arête to a platform, step across to the wall and continue up the arête to a grassy finish. First ascent: (04/07/2013) Martin Jess, Brian Smith Side Saddle 18m MVS A bit of an Eliminate. Start at the groove of CC Rider and pull out left to the arête. Climb the discontinuous arête to the top First ascent: (01/06/2013) Bob Bennett/Gill Swales Horse and Farrier Left-Hand Finish 10m E1 Follow Horse and Farrier Special to its step right into the grassy groove. From here move left onto the hanging slab and climb to the top. First ascent: (06/03/2011) B Davison, D McGimpsey LOWER SWIRL CRAG, THIRLMERE Page: 112 There's the Rub 18m E5 6B * The true version of Rub up, Push up. Climb the wall between Breakfast in America and Californian Weirdo without any use of the cracks on either side. First ascent: (21/07/1996) Steve Crowe , Karin Magog CASTLE CRAG, WYTHBURN Page: 117 Alt: 600m GR: NY 306 119 Direction: South A great little crag that has a fantastic panoramic view of the South Lakes and Morecambe Bay. The crag is south-facing and is sheltered. All the routes are short but testing. Park in Steel End car park at the south-west end of Thirlmere and follow the footpath up the valley of Wythburn. Follow this path for 2km, then strike up right up the steep but short hillside. 2 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you are responsible for judging the situation. 1. King Dunmail's Last Stand 15m E4** (6a). From two good holds slightly left of the roof, pull out right and battle your way up the steep groove above. First ascent: (04/05/2011) Mike Norbury 2. Trebuchets 15m E4 ** (6a). Attack the crack above to take a resting position in the niche, then climb the wall to top out slightly right. First ascent: (04/05/2011) Mike Norbury, Adam Hocking 3. Mangonel E4+ (6a). Strenuous climbing leads to a semi rest under the roof. Drift slightly right and reach up to find large hidden holds which lead to the top. First ascent: (04/05/2011) Mike Norbury, Adam Hocking 4. Onager 15m E5 (6a). Battle your way up the steep bouldery start to a small rest on a good foothold. Move left to the arete and up to a small roof. Make fun moves to better holds which lead to the top. First ascent: (04/05/2011) Adam Hocking, Mike Norbury 5. Ballista 15m E4 (6a). Follow the corner, making a hard move at its top. First ascent: (04/11/2011) Adam Hocking, Mike Norbury 6. Pendragon 15m E1** (5b). Follow the corner and crack to the top. First ascent: (04/05/2011) Mike Norbury, Adam Hocking NAB CRAG WYTHBURN Page: 117 Situated on the north side of the Wythburn Valley and can be seen on the skyline from Steel End car park. Reported as excellent rock with good protection. From the car park, follow the road to the footpath at Stankin. Take the path - north onto the ridge and follow this SW to the second small tarn which is 50 metres from the crag. Best access is by abseil or to the left of the crag. The climbs are on the left hand buttress and are described from left to right. The central groove is taken by Red Dwarf. Red Dwarf was first climbed by John Shepherd and Andrew Atkinson Trouble 20m E3** Follow the terrace under the crag to the right about 200m right of Red Dwarf to a very obvious right angle corner, which is 50m before the steep gulley which leads to the top of the crag. The feature can be seen from the road. Trouble takes the steep sustained finger crack in the wall to the left of the corner. First ascent: (11/09/2015) Jonathan Hughes and Tracey Hughes Strife 20m HVS** The obvious corner crack at the right hand end of the terrace, perhaps 200m right of Red Dwarf. Just before the steep gulley which gives access to the top of the crag. Climb the crack. Descend to the right and scramble easily 3metres into the gulley. First ascent: (11/09/2015) Jonathan Hughes and Tracey Hughes 3 Copyright Fell and Rock Climbing Club. These route descriptions have not been checked so please treat grades and other comments with a healthy dose of scepticism. As always climbs change over time, in particular any in-situ gear should be treated with caution; you are responsible for judging the situation. HARROP TARN CRAG, THIRLMERE Page: 122 GR: 307 134 Where No Ron Hill's Have Gone Before E5 (6a)* 15m A sharp, crimpy route that takes the steepest section of the crag between ‘Too Baldly Go’ and ‘Sea of Knobs’. (6a) Start as for ‘Too Baldly Go’ and climb the crack to the obvious small ledge at 3m. From the ledge place a good nut and step left 1m into the centre of the steepest section of the wall. Climb this on sharp crimps, knobs and small pockets till the angle eases and you reach the break. At the break it may be possible to arrange some protection; however, due to the lack of footholds it’s easier (but bolder) to continue to the sloping ledge at 12m. Mantle onto the ledge and place a cam at your feet. The angle eases again from here. Lay-back and climb the rightwards sloping crack that crosses the slab until the crack runs out. Hold your breath, and top out with two handfuls of heather. First ascent: (26/06/2013) Craig McMahon with Vickie McMahon No Nuts (Just Balls) 15m E7* 6b A sharp, crimpy and unprotected route that takes the steepest section of the crag. There is no need to take any nuts on the outing; balls are your only required accompaniment. Start on the blank wall between ‘Sea of Knobs’ and 'Too Baldly Go' and climb direct up the centre of the steepest section of the crag on sharp crimps, knobs and small pockets till the angle eases, breath and top out with two handfuls of heather.