avoiding Metal Mistakes How to work with a supplier to get the right alloy for your needs By sharon elaine ThoMpson If you’ve ever worked with a metal that was too hard or too soft, or that oxi- dized, pitted, or didn’t flow, you probably blamed the metal. And you may have been right; perhaps it was the wrong metal alloy for the job. The chances are also good, however, that you may not have asked the supplier for the right metal alloy. There are hundreds of alloy formula- tions—each supplier has many propri- etary master alloys—and finding the right one for your new process or new product will take time, testing, and trust. To help with that process, below are a few sugges- tions from industry suppliers on how you There are hundreds of alloy formulations, can avoid “metal mistakes.” and finding the right one for your new process or new Do Your research product will take time, testing, and trust. “The biggest issue people have [when pur- chasing an alloy] is understanding the panies have active R&D departments and Vicenza, Italy. Involving the right person metals’ properties, what the alloys do,” metallurgists on staff. Use that expertise: on your staff—whether it is from the cast- says Michael Henning, vice president of Usually you can talk to someone who has ing, the finishing, or the design depart- marketing at Belmont Metals Inc. in a deep understanding of the way the metal ments—will make addressing tech issues Brooklyn, New York. There are various melts, flows, and solidifies—and why it simpler and finding the right answers go books and online resources available to behaves the way it does. more quickly. serve as quick primers on metal proper- And don’t be afraid to tap into your ties, including Introduction to Precious own pool of expertise. “The buyer [should give Your supplier Metals (Brynmorgen Press) and the MJSA have] at least a certain level of technical All the Details Press book Jewelry Metals: A Guide to experience, or have access to that kind of You also need to ask yourself a few ques- Working with Common Alloys. (See side- information, when discussing something tions about what you want and you need, bar, “MJSA Metal Resources,” on page 22 like a master alloy, [which] has an impact as well as how you plan to work with the for a list of articles and publications that on virtually all the aspects of a jewelry metal—and then pass that information focus on metalworking.) manufacturing process,” says Andrea Friso, on to your supplier. You can also ask your metal supplier division product manager for the master “We need to know all the facts,” says about how an alloy behaves. Some com- alloy division at Legor Group S.p.A. in Rafael Amador, marketing director at OF LEACHGARNER. COURTESY IMAGE 18 MJSa buyer’s guide 2016 Quality. Telling your alloy supplier how the alloy will be used Selection. is crucial if you want to avoid surprises. “We need to Sustainability. know all the facts,” says Rafael Amador. A proud member of the Responsible Jewelry Council, United Precious Metal Refining (UPMR) tubing, the metal might crack.” Rio is here to supply all in Alden, New York. “What karat do you Ed Rigano, senior vice president of jew- your metals needs—from want? Do you want a fabrication [or a elry sales at LeachGarner, offers another specialty items to everyday casting] alloy? Are you using an open sys- scenario: “Customers may order a dead-soft staples. Shop our extensive tem [i.e., torch melting] or a closed sys- metal to better form parts, but that could tem [induction or resistance melting]? lead to orange peel if they manipulate it line of recycled metals today! Does hardness matter, or softness? Are too much, since the softness of the metal you going to cast with stones in the wax, also contributes to grain growth. If you or set stones in the finished piece? We describe how you intend to use the metal, have hundreds of alloys, and they’re all your supplier might be able to formulate a catered to meet specific needs.” (To help soft alloy with a smaller grain size, or sug- its customers with this process, UPMR gest a slightly harder alloy” that better fits has on its website a downloadable app the application. that walks buyers through the alloy selec- Also tell your supplier about the equip- tion process.) ment you’re using, says Friso. “What was Jean Poole, national sales manager at working well 10 years back might be out- Umicore Precious Metals USA in Attleboro, dated today,” he says, adding that if cus- Massachusetts, offers a few more points to tomers tell him what equipment they’re cover: “What are your requirements for employing, he can help them to use it cor- temper or tensile strength [for wire]? Do rectly. “Most of the time this does not you need wire spooled, or have a coil require purchasing new machines or new inside diameter [ID] requirement?” Your materials,” he explains, “just using those choices, she says, depend on the applica- currently available in another manner. tion and how you intend to use the metal. “As a master alloys supplier, we must Telling your supplier how the alloy have deep knowledge about the custom- will be used is crucial if you want to er’s production process and methodolo- avoid unpleasant surprises. For instance, gies used,” he continues. “The kind of “if you order grain, you should specify machine used, their expertise in model whether you plan to use it for investment making, and the expectations of final casting or to create wrought items,” says quality are just a few examples of what we Grigory Raykhtsaum, director of metal- need to know to give them the correct lurgy at LeachGarner in Attleboro, Mas- product. We [also] have to be aware of the sachusetts. Casting grain typically con- final market to where the jewelry is sup- tains additives that improve metal flow plied.” The details you hold back may be riogrande.com and surface quality, but also reduce the the ones that are causing problems. 800.545.6566 metal’s ductility, he explains: “If you try And don’t stop at the production meth- #RioJeweler to use casting grain to fabricate wire or ods and the equipment; you also should MJSA Buyer's Guide ArticleMJSa #2 Tips buyer’s order metals.indd guide11/19/15 1 2016 4:52 PM19 AVOIDING METAL MISTAKES Refiners and MEtAl suPPliErs tell your supplier about the type of jew- These advertisers can meet your metals needs and maximize your refining returns. elry you intend to make, right down to For more MJSA members offering these services can be found in the “Metals” the design. “If you’re casting filigree rings section (page 114) and the “Contract Manufacturing Services” section (page 61). with small cross-sections, you’ll need an alloy with greater fluidity,” says Raykht- Belmont Metals Inc. Metallix Refining Inc. saum. Knowing the design’s specifics can See our ad on page 23 See our ad on page 29 help a supplier determine the best alloy (metals) (metals and refining) formula. Eastern Findings Corp. Morvillo Precision Products See our ad on page 89 See our ad on page 3 (metals) (metals) Geib Refining Corp. National Chain Group See our ad on page 69 See our ad on page 5 (refining) (metals) hauser & Miller Co. Inc. Rio Grande See our ad on page 32 See our ads on pages 9, 19, 37 (metals and refining) (metals) heraeus Precious Metals Stuller Inc. North America LLC See our ad on page 13 See our ad on page 31 (metals and refining) (metals and refining) Myron Toback Inc. ordering custom Alloys hoover and Strong Inc. See our ad on page 101 The development of a custom alloy typi- See our ad on page 25 (metals and refining) cally requires a great deal of conversation, (metals and refining) testing, and tweaking before large-scale Umicore Precious Metals USA production begins. “On a custom alloy,” LaserStar Technologies Corp. See our ad on page 6 says Poole, “we would need a complete See our ad on page 2 (metals and refining) analysis or at least some guidelines as to (metals) what the customer is looking for. Not all United Precious Metal Refining custom alloys will be able to attain the LeachGarner See our ad on page 21 temper or working capabilities needed for See our ad on the back cover (metals and refining) what the customer is trying to do. Palla- (metals) dium, for example, is a very soft alloy; you cannot attain the same hardness [with it] Lee’s Manufacturing Inc. as with other metals.” See our ad on page 3 The key here is testing—in actual work- (metals) ing conditions. “Any new product under development must always be tested in a small batch at the jewelry manufacturer’s OF JOHNSON MATTHEY. COURTESY IMAGE 20 MJSa buyer’s guide 2016 Metal resources available from MJSA MJSA offers numerous resources to help jewelry makers and designers better understand the properties of precious and non- precious metals. The following selection of books and articles can be ordered through the MJSA Bookstore at bookstore.mjsa.org or by calling 1-800-444-MJSA (6572). MJSA members can order articles for free and books at a 15 percent discount. Books Articles Jewelry Metals: Metallic Matters A Guide to working with Common Alloys Compiled by Shawna Kulpa, John Shanahan, and Tina Wojtkielo Technical Editor: James Binnion Snyder.