yz Hands-on geography yz A touch of Saint Tropez The relief map in Cetinje gives a The feel of southern France: the The best bird’s-eye view of Montenegro’s small village of Rose consists of mountains → p. 106 a few stone houses with the sea MARCO POLO right on the doorstep. The pictur- yz Aroma therapy esque village has become a hub Insider Tips Breathe in, browse around and for artists and film stars from Bel- taste – every morning beguiling grade who like to spend their holi- Our top 15 Insider Tips fragrances waft over Bar when the days here in the shade of the olive farmers’ market displays the wealth trees (photo below) → p. 39 of Mediterranean nature → p. 51 yz Fresh air, good food yz Grilled meat from After visiting the famous Ostrog the Balkans Monastery, the Koliba Bogetići Mo- Ćevapčići and ražnjići are tasty tel is the perfect place to indulge in grilled specialities that are sold al- some more worldly pleasures out in most everywhere as fast food. How- the fresh air → p. 79 ever, if they come from Leskovac in southern Serbia, they are a real yz Stones of remembrance culinary highlight. You can sample The Jewish cemetery in Kotor is the them in the Leskovački Ćevap on the only one of its kind in Montenegro. yz Nudism in the yz Reach for the sky promenade in Petrovac → p. 58 It is a silent witness to the exodus Bojana Delta Easy hikes aren’t enough for you? of Spanish Jews in the Middle The country’s longest nudist beach The challenging Peaks of the Bal- yz Window on nature Ages who found their new home is located on the beautiful river is- kans Trail takes you high into the See the great diversity of the high- in this city. A pebble placed on a land Ada Bojana → p. 63 Prokletije Mountains (photo above) land flora at the botanical garden in tombstone honours the deceased → p. 89 Kolašin → p. 107 → p. 40 yz Feel at home Tamara Strugar has for many yz Ruins with a view years welcomed guests to Vila Montenegro’s rulers once resided in Tamara in Ulcinj. From a garden Žabljak on Lake Skadar. Today, there filled with agaves and oleanders, is a splendid view far across the land- you can enjoy the view of the scape from the castle ruins → p. 75 beach and unforgettable sunsets → p. 63 yz On a zipline above the canyon yz Angelic voices in the fjord At Đurđevića Tara Bridge, you will Klape are male a capella choirs overcome your vertigo! With the Red- that sing slow ballads. The best rockzipline you race 150 m/164 ft of them perform at the festival of high above the canyon with the me- male choirs held in Perast in August andering river below you → p. 83 → p. 108 yz Rock sounds on the beach yz A dream in white Britons rate the Sea Dance Festival The Rivijera , one of the most at Jaz Beach near Budva among beautiful hotels in Montenegro, is the best music events in Europe. located on the picturesque Bay of For many, it’s still unknown and is Petrovac na Moru → p. 59 regarded as an insider tip → p. 108 ONLY IN MONTENEGRO BEST OF ... Unique experiences Coffee tradition GREAT PLACES FOR FREE rNo day is complete without a mocha in Montenegro! The locals drink coffee in the mornings, at midday, Discover new places and save money in the evenings, during breaks and before and after meals. Coffee is served in small cups with a glass of water. Try a coffee in the tradition- Scenic road instead of a tunnel al patisserie Karađuzović in Stari Bar. Also Your will save yourself some distance but will have to pay 2.50 euros if served with delicious Baklava → p. 53 you drive through the Sozina Tunnel from Lake Skadar to the Montene- grin coast. The alternative route is via the winding road from Virpazar on Monument on the summit the Adriatic near Petrovac; it is free and offers panoramic vistas → p. 50 Ther Montenegrins revere their national he- roes with great fervour and they have placed A clan in the museum a colossal monument to the greatest on one of Ther poet Marko Miljanov immortalised the militant Kuči clan in his the highest mountains in the country. The poet historical work. You will be able to immerse yourself in the life of the Prince Njegoš has found his final resting place in writer and the history of the clan in the Miljanov Museum in Medunda. the mausoleum, with spectacular views, on the Jezer- Entrance is free → p. 75 ski vrh summit on Mount Lovćen (photo) → p. 68 Free bench at the beach Lamb, baked over hot coals Ar sun lounger on the beach in Petrovac na Moru costs 10 euros; a place Atr Kužina in Podgorica, you can sample a traditional Montenegrin del- on one of the lovely old benches on the promenade is gratis. You will icacy: juicy lamb baked in a ceramic dish over an open fire. The secret: still have the sand and sea right in front of you and trees to provide even the ceramic lid sač is covered with hot coals → p. 71 shade (photo) → p. 58 Our daily bread IN ONLY Montenegro’s up-and-coming artists Thosr e who want to buy bread in Montenegro must generally make do Thisr is the place to discover new talent! The Gallery Josip Bepo Benković with rather tasteless loaves subsided by the state and known as “peo- in Herceg Novi exhibits work by young Montenegrin artists. You don’t ple’s bread”. Many locals prefer to bake their own bread. Especially the have to pay to have a look at them → p. 35 fresh bread that the farmers’ wives in the north bake is pure bliss! You FOR FREE have the opportunity to enjoy it as a visitor at the Autocamp Razvršje Collect herbs camping site where the owner’s mother bakes her own bread → p. 80 r Mint, thyme, rocket and nettles – all of the fragrant herbs of Montenegro are on sale at the country’s Chequered history and testimonies in stone markets. But it is much more fun to pick them Ther fate of the small country has repeatedly been determined by Europe- yourself! So just head off to the hinterland of an powers. These cultural influences are immediately apparent in the Lake Skadar and get away from the main impressive architecture of Kotor’s old town → p. 41 roads! The herbs grow wild near Virpaza for example → p. 75 Try your luck? rCasinos are a special branch of tourism in Montenegro. All self respect- Go barefoot on Roman mosaics ing hotels have one and the best guests are the Italians who jet across rIn Risan, you can feel like a Roman citizen: the Adriatic at the weekend and often leave their money in the country. kick off your shoes and explore the ancient Would you like to do what they do and see if you are any better? One floor mosaics barefoot and for free in the place where you can try your luck is in the hotel Maestral in Pržno town’s open-air museum → p. 45 → p. 56 r r r r Dots in guidebook refer to ‘Best of …’ tips 9 DISCOVERY TOURS Would you like to explore the places that are unique to this country? MONTENEGRO Then the Discovery Tours are just the thing for you – they include terrific A tips for stops worth making, breathtaking places to visit, selected AT A GLANCE restaurants and fun activities. It’s even easier with the Touring App: download the tour with map and route to your smartphone using the START: Herceg Novi 3 days QR Code on pages 2/3 or from the website address in the footer below END: 1 Herceg Novi C Driving time – and you’ll never get lost again even when you’re offline. → p. 2/3 1 Distance: 13 hours approx. 580 km/360 mi and the testimony of an eventful history reveal Montenegro’s past and present. COSTS: approx. 330 euros/2 persons (petrol, meals, overnight stay, Most of all, however, you will discover the country’s wild beauty and its never- admissions, activities) ending, breathtaking panoramic views. WHAT TO PACK: warm clothing, swimming gear IMPORTANT TIP: Phone ahead and book an appointment with the From Herceg Novi → p. 34 drive on the E 65 in the DAY 1 runner-up world champion hairdresser, Style by Eky, in Bijelo Polje. direction1 of Kotor as far as Kamenari. Take the ferry to Herceg Novi 10 Lepetane. On the E 80, after Tivat, continue uphill and 1 43 km/26.7 mi ahead of you lies Budva → p. 53. Park the car before Budva Explore the coastline, rocky cliffs and ancient culture in no time – few other small the old town, stroll2 through the narrow streets and trav- 2 9 km/5.6 mi countries have so much to offer at one go. The places of worship of four religions el back in time in the city museum and the days of the 90 You can find these tours as an app at: go.marco-polo.com/mon Photo: Old town in Budva 91.