AperTO - Archivio Istituzionale Open Access dell'Università di Torino Quality potential of “new-old” white winegrape genotypes from Daunia (northern Apulia region): back to the future? This is the author's manuscript Original Citation: Quality potential of “new-old” white winegrape genotypes from Daunia (northern Apulia region): back to the future? / de Palma L.; Limosani P.; De Michele M.; Tamborra P.; Tarricone L.; Poli G.; Novello V.. - In: LE PROGRÈS AGRICOLE ET VITICOLE. - ISSN 0369-8173. - 17 GiESCo(2011), pp. 69-72. Availability: This version is available http://hdl.handle.net/2318/94678 since Terms of use: Open Access Anyone can freely access the full text of works made available as "Open Access". Works made available under a Creative Commons license can be used according to the terms and conditions of said license. Use of all other works requires consent of the right holder (author or publisher) if not exempted from copyright protection by the applicable law. (Article begins on next page) 02 October 2021 QUALITY POTENTIAL OF “NEW-OLD” WHITE WINEGRAPE GENOTYPES FROM DAUNIA (NORTHERN APULIA REGION): BACK TO THE FUTURE? Laura de PALMA 1*, Patrizio LIMOSANI 1 , Maria DE MICHELE 1, Pasquale TAMBORRA2, Luigi TARRICONE 2, Giuseppina POLI 3, Vittorino NOVELLO 4 1 Dipartimento di Scienze Agroambientali, Chimica e Difesa Vegetale, Università degli Studi di Foggia, Via Napoli, 25, 71100 Foggia 2 CRA, Unità di Ricerca per l’Uva da Tavola e la Vitivinicoltura in Ambiente Mediterraneo, Via Casamasima 148, 70010 Turi (BA) 3 Società Cooperativa Agricola Fortore, Via M. Colacchio 39, 71017 Torremaggiore (FG) 4 Dipartimento di Colture Arboree, Università degli Studi di Torino, Via Leonardo da Vinci 44, 10095 Grugliasco (TO) *Corresp. author: Laura de Palma, +390881-589221, +390881-589342, Email: [email protected] Summary while, in the XX century, the cultivation of white-berry In the Northern province of the Apulia Region (Foggia, syn. genotypes became traditional, although the semi-arid Daunia, Italy), several old white wine-grape genotypes were environment of Daunia might favor browning reactions into found in the area called “Alto Tavoliere”. The quality potential of white berries. The same production took place also in other some of these varieties was tested by obtaining, for the first time, warm Italian regions, such as Sicily; it was stimulated by experimental wines from them. In the present trial, grapes of the the need of neutral grapes, coming from “generous” genotypes named Malvasia Bastarda, Squaccianosa and varieties, that are the most suitable to produce the vermouth Tuccanese Moscio were wine-processed separately. On grapes of base-wines required by winemaking industries of Northern the genotype named Selvaggio, very rich in polyphenols, a pre- Italy. Hence, many minor white grape varieties were fermentative cold maceration was applied in order to test their introduced and grown in Northern Apulia and there became suitability to produce a type of “orange wine”. Grapes of all these genotypes, mixed with those of other two varieties, named “naturalized”; their grapes were often added to those of the Uvarilla e Palumma, were used to produce a blended wine. main varieties, or were mixed altogether, to produce local Moreover, in order to compare the characteristics of these grapes wines. However, due to the simplification of the cultivated with those of a well-known winegrape genotype, cv. Falanghina varieties that characterized the agriculture of the last was also enclosed in the trial. The wines were analyzed to assess decades (Scarascia Mugnozza, 1974), the cultivation of their standard physical and chemical parameters, to evaluate their these genotypes was progressively abandoned. sensory properties and to detect their main aromatic compounds. The University of Foggia, since 2005, collaborates The results showed that physical and chemical characteristics with the “Società Cooperativa Agricola Fortore” of were normal for wines obtained by small-lot winemakings. Torremaggiore (Foggia province) to resume, characterize Malvasia Bastarda and, to a lesser extent, the blended wine, tended to be more alcoholic (about 0.8 degrees); on the other and study old grapevine varieties with two main aims: i) to hand, Selvaggio and Squaccianosa wines had the highest total dry preserve the biodiversity; ii) to individuate genotypes extract. At the sensory evaluation, Selvaggio differed for its suitable to obtain new typology of wines, joining tradition deeper color intensity and tonality, as expected because of its and innovation. In these years several genotypes have been winemaking style. On the whole, the blended wine was preferred, found and their main characteristics have been described followed by Squaccianosa and, thereafter, by Tuccanese Moscio. (de Palma et al., 2007; de Palma et al. 2008, de Palma et The blended wine was the most appreciated for aroma purity and al., 2010). intensity and, together with Selvaggio wine, it was rated higher In 2010, the Apulia Region Local Government for bodiness. The blended wine was also found the most supported this research providing a scholarship within the harmonic, followed by Squaccianosa. This latter, moreover, expressed aromas of almond, white peach and white flowers. The call named “Back to the Future”. This contribution allowed GC-MS analysis showed that Squaccianosa wine was the richest to study in depth the potential quality of several genotypes in volatile compounds, also when compared to the reference and to obtain experimental wines from their grapes. The Falanghina wine. These results encourage to pursue the obtaining present work summarizes the main results concerning the of new enological products from the “new-old” genotypes assessment of physical and chemical parameters, sensory individuated in the “Alto Tavoliere” area of Daunia, either as properties and aromatic traits of these wines. In order to blend or as mono-variety wines. compare the results with those achievable with a well- known white wine-grape genotype, cv. Falanghina was also INTRODUCTION included in the trial. The Northern province of the Apulia Region (Foggia, syn. Daunia, Italy) occupies the fifth position among all MATERIAL AND METHODS those producing Italian wines and musts. According to the The study was carried out in the vintage 2010. At a tradition, the viticulture of this area dates back to the age vineyard affiliated to “Società Cooperativa Agricola when the ancient Greek hero Diomede colonized the Fortore” (Torremaggiore, Foggia province, N Lat. 41°41’; Northern Apulia; nevertheless, during the Middle Ages, the E Long. 15°17’), 10 vines of the genotypes named flock pasture was largely imposed over these lands, hence, Malvasia Bastarda, Selvaggio, Squaccianosa, Tuccanese most of the old grapevine germplasm probably grown at Moscio, and 5 vines of the genotypes named Palumma and that time was likely lost. Uvarilla were individuated. Moreover, since cv. Falanghina In the XIX century the growing of both black- and is widely grown in Southern Italian regions and provides white-berry grapevine genotypes was gradually resumed appreciated white winegrapes, it was also included in this PAV - 17th GiESCO Meeting, 2011 69 trial as a reference for wine quality. Thus, 10 vines of this studies pointed out this genotype as characterized by a cultivar were also sampled. The vines were VSP trained higher photosynthetic rate respect to the other old varieties and pruned according to the Guyot system. The vineyard, studied in this trial (de Palma et al., 2010). The must T.S.S. planted in a clay-sandy soil, was more than 60-year old, concentration of the blended grapes was influenced by the and was conducted according to the traditional viticultural low refractometric degree reached by Palumma and practices typical of that growing area, as already reported Uvarilla (about 15 and 17 °Brix respectively) at the time (de Palma et al., 2010). when the other varieties were harvested. From the last week of August, 100 berries per Must titratable acidity ranged from 4.3 to 6.6 g L-1, cultivar were sampled, every week, in order to analyze their thus it was quite low as it often occurs in warm climates, composition: total soluble solids (T.S.S.), titratable acidity where malic acid is rapidly respired due to the high air (A.T., as tartaric acid) and pH. Aiming to obtain a temperature. A considerable higher titratable acidity was sufficient alcohol degree, grapes were harvested when found in Squaccianosa and in the reference cv. Falanghina reached at least 18 °Brix; in the 2010 vintage, this threshold respect to Tuccanese Moscio (+25÷38 %) and to the grape was reached starting from the last week of September. The blend (+40÷53 %). As a consequence of the low acidity, occurring of some rainfalls in that period influenced the juice pH often reaches quite high values; in this trial it sanitary state of grapes; bunches of Malvasia Bastarda were ranged between 3.4 and 3.9. the most sensitive to rot, while those of Falanghina were the most resistant. Selvaggio, Tuccanese Moscio and Table1. Main parameters of must composition. Falanghina vines produced from 3.5 to 4.5 kg per vine; Malvasia Bastarda, that resulted very productive in T.S.S. A.T. Grape variety pH previous trials (de Palma et al., 2010), and Squaccianosa (°Brix) (g L-1) gave about 7.0 kg of grapes per vine. Grapes of each Malvasia Bastarda 20.3 5.5 3.7 genotype were used to realize mono-variety small-lot Selvaggio 18.3 5.7 3.9 winemakings. Palumma and Uvarilla, due to the low Squaccianosa 18.6 6.6 3.5 number of vines available in the vineyard, did not produce Tuccanese Moscio 18.5 4.8 3.7 enough grapes to realize mono-variety winemakings, thus Grape blend 18.0 4.3 3.9 their bunches were mixed with some of those produced by Falanghina (reference) 19.6 6.0 3.6 the other genotypes aiming to obtain a blended wine.