Up and down California in 1860-1864; the journal of William H. Brewer ... edited by Francis P. Farquhar ... with a preface by Russell H. Chittenden UP AND DOWN CALIFORNIA PUBLISHED ON THE FOUNDATION ESTABLISHED IN MEMORY OF PHILIP HAMILTON MCMILLAN OF THE CLASS OF 1894 YALE COLLEGE THE FIELD PARTY OF 1864 GARDINER COTTER BREWER KING Up and Down CALIFORNIA in 1860-1864 The Journal of WILLIAM H. BREWER, Professor of Agriculture in the Sheffield Scientific School from 1864 to 1903 EDITED BY FRANCIS P. FARQUHAR EDITOR OF THE SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, CALIFORNIA Up and down California in 1860-1864; the journal of William H. Brewer ... edited by Francis P. Farquhar ... with a preface by Russell H. Chittenden http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.142 WITH A PREFACE BY RUSSELL H. CHITTENDEN DIRECTOR OF THE SHEFFIELD SCIENTIFIC SCHOOL 1898-1922 NEW HAVEN YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS LONDON . HUMPHREY MILFORD . OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS 1930 Copyright 1930 by Yale University Press Printed in the United States of America All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, in any form, except by written permission from the publishers. PREFACE THE letters brought together in this volume have value in that they throw light on the character and early work of a man who was destined to lead an eventful life in the service of science in this country, while at the same time they present a vivid picture of the conditions in California at a time when the first scientific survey of the resources of the state was attempted. To those who had the privilege of association with William H. Brewer during the period of his long connection with Yale University as professor of agriculture in the Sheffield Scientific School, Up and down California in 1860-1864; the journal of William H. Brewer ... edited by Francis P. Farquhar ... with a preface by Russell H. Chittenden http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.142 whether as colleagues on the faculty, as students in his classes, or as members of that large body of New England farmers and others who looked to him for guidance on many matters connected with the public welfare, these letters will appeal strongly. The day has passed when men of the Brewer type are met with; men who had broad and encyclopedic minds covering a wide range of thought and action. The rapid growth of science during the past fifty years has brought about a complete change in mental outlook and the successful man of today is the specialist, a master mind in some one field of science. But Brewer was a man whose efforts were extended over a wide range for which he had prepared himself by years of arduous study, and according to the standards of his generation, his preparation was unusually broad and sound. Not only was Brewer thoroughly equipped for the several lines of work he pursued throughout his long life, but in addition he possessed a personality which gave added viii strength and vigor to all his efforts. A close observer, a careful and sagacious thinker, slow to arrive at a conclusion until all the facts were available, he embodied all those attributes that contribute to success in the conduct of any investigation that calls for wise judgment and logical reasoning. As these letters show, even in his younger days, at the time when he became the “principal assistant” in this survey of California, he it was who had the knowledge and the power to take charge of and carry through a scientific enterprise, under conditions often far from favorable, and without doubt such success as the survey attained was due in no small measure to his resourceful leadership in the field. The record of events contained in these letters, written primarily for the benefit of friends at home, but to be preserved for the possible future needs of the writer, affords the best possible illustration of the character of the man who wrote them. There stand revealed many things that the thoughtful reader will observe, self-sacrifice, devotion to duty, determination to overcome difficulties no matter how great, and above all a serene confidence in his ability to carry through, these and many other characteristics testify to the strength and courage of this man, at a time when he was on the threshold of his scientific career. His later years bear witness to his devotion to scientific truth and its application in various directions for the benefit of mankind. Up and down California in 1860-1864; the journal of William H. Brewer ... edited by Francis P. Farquhar ... with a preface by Russell H. Chittenden http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.142 RUSSELL H. CHITTENDEN. New Haven, Connecticut, March, 1930. CONTENTS PREFACE BY RUSSELL H. CHITTENDEN vii ILLUSTRATIONS xi INTRODUCTION xv BOOK I—1860-1861 Chapter I. TO CALIFORNIA VIA PANAMA 3 II. LOS ANGELES AND ENVIRONS 11 III. MORE OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 29 IV. STARTING NORTHWARD 43 V. SANTA BARBARA 55 VI. THE COAST ROAD 73 VII. SALINAS VALLEY AND MONTEREY 91 BOOK II—1861 I. AN INTERLUDE 117 II. NEW IDRIA 135 III. NEW ALMADEN 149 IV. APPROACHING THE BAY 169 V. THE MOUNT DIABLO RANGE 191 VI. NAPA VALLEY AND THE GEYSERS 213 BOOK III—1862 I. THE RAINY SEASON 241 II. TAMALPAIS AND DIABLO 255 III. THE DIABLO RANGE SOUTH 275 IV. UP THE SACRAMENTO RIVER 291 V. MOUNT SHASTA 309 VI. WEST AND EAST OF THE SACRAMENTO RIVER 325 VII. CLOSING THE YEAR—A MISCELLANY 347 x BOOK IV—1863 I. IN AND ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO 365 II. TEJON—TEHACHAPI— WALKER's PASS 375 III. THE BIG TREES—YOSEMITE—TUOLUMNE MEADOWS 397 IV. MONO LAKE—AURORA—SONORA PASS 415 V. TO CARSON PASS AND LAKE TAHOE 429 VI. THE NORTHERN MINES AND LASSEN's PEAK 451 VII. SISKIYOU 471 VIII. CRESCENT CITY AND SAN FRANCISCO 489 BOOK V—1864 I. SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY— GIANT SEQUOIAS 505 II. THE HIGH SIERRA OF KINGS RIVER 517 III. OWENS VALLEY AND THE SAN JOAQUIN SIERRA 533 IV. THE WASHOE MINES 551 V. HOMEWARD BOUND—NICARAGUA 561 ITINERARY 571 INDEX 589 ILLUSTRATIONS Up and down California in 1860-1864; the journal of William H. Brewer ... edited by Francis P. Farquhar ... with a preface by Russell H. Chittenden http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.142 THE FIELD PARTY OF 1864 Frontispiece BOOK I WILLIAM H. BREWER (1859) facing page 4 JOSIAH DWIGHT WHITNEY 18 WILLIAM H. BREWER (1864) 18 CHESTER AVERILL 18 WILLIAM ASHBURNER 18 SANTA BARBARA MISSION From a drawing by Edward Vischer 40 THE CELEBRATED GRAPEVINE AT MONTECITO From a drawing by Edward Vischer 40 SAN LUIS OBISPO From a drawing by Ogilby, after Vischer 62 MISSION OF SAN JUAN BAUTISTA From a drawing by Edward Vischer 62 GENERAL VIEW OF CARMEL MISSION From a drawing by Edward Vischer 84 CARMEL MISSION BEFORE ITS RESTORATION From a photograph by C. E. Watkins 84 IN CAMP NEAR MONTEREY, MAY, 1861 From a photograph taken on leather 100 BOOK II NEW ALMADEN QUICKSILVER MINE: THE PLANILLA; THE HACIENDA From photographs by C. E. Watkins 120 SHERMAN DAY 152 GOV. JOHN G. DOWNEY 152 REV. LAURENTINE HAMILTON 152 REV. THOMAS STARR KING 152 HOLLENBECK's ROCK, PACHECO PASS From a sketch by Charles F. Hoffmann 188 xii THE BEER KEG From a sketch by Charles F. Hoffmann facing page 188 RAPID TRANSPORTATION AND COMMUNICATION IN THE EARLY SIXTIES From a drawing by Edward Vischer 216 BOOK III THE CITY OF SACRAMENTO IN THE FLOOD OF 1862: K STREET; J STREET From contemporary newspaper cuts 244 THE SURVEY PARTY IN CAMP NEAR MOUNT DIABLO, 1862 260 DR. JAMES G. COOPER 276 CHARLES F. HOFFMANN 276 AUGUSTE RéMOND 276 WILLIAM MORE GABB 276 CASTLE CRAGS, WEST OF THE UPPER SACRAMENTO From a sketch by J. D. Whitney 294 CONE MOUNTAIN (BLACK BUTTE), NEAR MOUNT SHASTA From a sketch by Charles F. Hoffmann 294 MOUNT SHASTA From an engraving published by D. Appleton & Co. in 1873 312 WEAVERVILLE From a lithograph published by J. M. Hutchings in 1855 326 SHASTA CITY From a lithograph published by J. M. Hutchings in 1855 326 HYDRAULIC MINING From a photograph by Don Rafael Ordoñez Castro, of the Pacific Squadron of Spain, 1863 350 BOOK IV ENTERING THE CALAVERAS GROVE OF BIG TREES From a lithograph reproduction of a drawing by Edward Vischer published in 1862 368 THE OBELISK GROUP (MERCED PEAKS), FROM Up and down California in 1860-1864; the journal of William H. Brewer ... edited by Francis P. Farquhar ... with a preface by Russell H. Chittenden http://www.loc.gov/resource/calbk.142 PORCUPINE FLAT From a sketch by J. D. Whitney 382 MOUNT DANA AND PEAKS AT HEAD OF TUOLUMNE RIVER From a sketch by J. D. Whitney 382 UNICORN PEAK, FROM TUOLUMNE MEADOWS From a sketch by Charles F. Hoffmann facing page 402 CATHEDRAL PEAK AND FAIRVIEW DOME, FROM TUOLUMNE MEADOWS From a sketch by Charles F. Hoffmann 402 CATHEDRAL PEAK, FROM TUOLUMNE MEADOWS From a sketch by J. D. Whitney 420 THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT LYELL From a sketch by Charles F. Hoffmann 420 VOLCANIC RIDGES NEAR SILVER MOUNTAIN From a sketch by J. D. Whitney 440 SUMMITS CAPPED WITH LAVA, NEAR THE SONORA ROAD From a sketch by Charles F. Hoffmann 440 LASSEN PEAK From a sketch by Clarence King 458 GRASS VALLEY From a lithograph reproduction of a drawing by R. E. Ogilby 458 YREKA From a lithograph published by J. M. Hutchings in 1855 480 SCOTT's BAR From a lithograph published by J. M. Hutchings in 1855 480 THE CALIFORNIA STATE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY, DECEMBER, 1863 500 BOOK V JAMES T.