VOLUME XXVI SPRING 1990 The quarterly journal of the Gemological Institute of America SPRING 1990 Volume 26 No. 1 EDITORIAL The 1980s in Review: New Realities of the Gem and Jewelry Industry Richard T Liddicoat and William E. Boyajian Thank You! Alice S. Keller FEATURE Gem Localities of the 1980s ARTICLES James E. Shigley, Dona Mary Dirlan~,Karl Schmetzer, and E. Alan Jobbins Gemstone Enhancement and Its Detection in the 1980s Robert C. Kammerling, John I. Koiv~~la,and Robert E. Kane Synthetic Gem Materials in the 1980s Kurt Nassau New Technologies of the 1980s: Their Impact in Gemology Emmanuel Fritsch and George R. Rossman Jewelry of the 1980s: A Retrospective Elise B. Misiorowski REGULAR Gem Trade Lab Notes FEATURES Gem News Most Valuable Article Award Gems & Gemology Challenge ABOUT THE COVER: The 1980s saw continued production from many historically important localities, plus the addition of several new ones. This cover photo includes some of the most popular gemstones of the decade (all localities indicated are as reported by the owners of the stones): (1) 25.43~1aquamarine, Santa Maria mine, Brazil; (2) 20.10-ct peridot, Burma; (3) 21.09-ct kunzite, Brazil; (4) 8.14-ct grossular garnet, Kenya; (5) 16.28-ct rubellit8 tourmaline, Queen Mine, Pala, California; (6) 15.18-ct tourmaline, Paraiba, Brazil; (7) 10.42-ct tanzanite, Tanzania; (8) 6.09-ct spessartite, Ramona, San Diego County, California; (9) 10.45-ct tsavorite, Kenya; (10) 4.82-ct emerald, Colombia; (11) 8.31-ct pink sapphire, Sri Lanka; (12) 5.79-ct pink spinel, Pamir Mountains, USSR; (13) 10.15-ct pink topciz, Pakistan; (14) 6.70-ct sapphire, Kashmir, India; (151 6.14-ct fancy intense yellow diamond; (16) 6.38-ct ruby, Burma; (17) 3.08- ct tourmaline, Paraiba, Brazil; (18) 1.85-ct fancy purple-pink diamond, Argyle diamond mine, Western Australia; (19) 5.05-ct D-color, internally flawless diamond. Stones 1, 2, and 5 are courtesy of William F. Larson; 3 and 11 are courtesy of Pala International, Inc.; 4, 8, 13, and 14 are courtesy of the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County; 6 is courtesy of DuQuet lewelers, Inc.; 7 is from GIA; 9 is courtesy of lulio Zerkowitz; 10 is courtesy of R. Esmerian, Inc.; 12 is courtesy of Jiistina; 15 is courtesy of Ballreich 61 IZantor and Kazanjian Brothers, Inc.: 16 is courtesy of Ronny Levy Gem Co.: 17 is courtesy of Evan Caplan a) Co.; 18 is courtesy of Argyle Diamond Sales Ltd.; 19 is courtesy of William Goldberg Diamond Group. Photo 0 Harold el Erica Van PeltÑPhotographers Los Angeles, CA. Typesetting for Gems &. Gernology is by Scientific Composition, Los Angeles, CA. Color separations are by Effective Graphics, Cornpton, CA. Printing is by Waverly Press, Easton, MD. 1990 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved ISSN 001 6-626X EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief Editor Editor, Gem Trade Lab Notes STAFF Richard T Liddicoat Alice S. Keller C. W Fryer Associate Editors 1660 Stewart St. Editor, Geniological Abstracts William E. Boyajian Santa Monica, CA 90404 Dona M. Dirlam Peter C. Keller Telephone: (800)421-7250 x25 1 D. Vincent Manson Subscriptions Editors, Book Reviews John Sinlzanlzas Gail Young Elise B. Misiorowski Technical Editor Telephone: (800) 421-7250 x201 Loretta B. Loeb Fax: 828-0247 Carol M. Stoclzton (213) Editors, Gem News Assistant Editor Contributing Editor John I. Koivula Nancy K. Hays John 1. Koivula Robert C. Kaminerling PRODUCTION Art Director Production Artist Word Processor STAFF Lisa Joko Carol Winkler Ruth Patchick EDITORIAL Robert Crowningshield Robert C. Kammerling Sallie Morton REVIEW BOARD New York, 1VY Santa Monica, CA San Jose, CA Alan T Collins Anthony R. Kampf Kurt Nassau London, United Kingdom Los Angeles, CA P.O. Lebanon, NJ Dennis Foltz Robert E. Kane Ray Page Santa Monica, CA Santa Monica, CA Santa Monica, CA Emmanuel Fritsch John I. Koivula George Rossman Santa Monica, CA Santa Monica, CA Pasadena, CA C. W Fryer Henry 0. A. Meyer Karl Schmctzer Santa Monica, CA West Lafayette, IN Petershciusen, W. Germany C. S. Hurlbut, Jr. James E. Shigley Cambridge, MA Santa Monica, CA SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions in the U.S.A. are priced as follows: $39.95 for one year (4 issues), $94.95 for three years (12 issues). Subscriptions sent elsewhere are $49.00 for one year, $124.00 for three years. Special annual subscription rates arc available for all students actively involved in a GIA program: $32.95 U.S.A., $42.00 elsewhere. Your student number must be listed at the time your subscription is entered. Single copies of this issue may be purchased for $15.00 in the U.S., $20.00 elsewhere. Discounts are given for bulk orders of 10 or more of any one issue. A limited number of back issues are also available for purchase. 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Any opinions expressed in signed articles are understood to be the views of the authors and not of the publishers The 1980s in Review: New Realities of the Gem and Jewelry Industry n the gem and Jewelry industry -as throughout the world- the 1980s was a decade of Iunparalleled change. Many new products entered the market, and the processes that service and enhance them were radically altered. The entire face of gemology and the jewelry tiad; shifted: Change dominated jewelry-chain operations, mass merchandis- ing fostered new growth.areas, and demographics became a buzz-word of the decade. ~,&t~&fblretailerakoved t0,tc^mfciha~izcqrviali'typfoducts and superior service as the coneurtiei became more jewelry consciciu&more knowledgeable, and more sophisti- cated than in years past. These consumers enjoyed gettinga deal, but were willing to pay movefoi.qbal$ty-if they knew they were getting value. They also had more money, but - l&. t'ittle'and &mx&nce.became essential. $:*' .3<4*<tv 1': t-g&:::..?',: <is?&.-"<&-> 1. <rt^ _.-È As the. decade progressed, more retailing formats began to chase a growing gem and j~wellryflfiie.l' The ii^ditiortftl jewelry industry had to cope with deep discounting, decept'ive~piicingand advcitisinfc undeikaiatiG of gold, misgrading of diamonds, and theshort~iei~htirt~of mounted goods..~ortconventiohal gem and jewelry outlets - such as discourit operatioris, directinail salea, and weft home shopping-proliferated, opening: gem$ and jeweliy to more and more eople. One result was a massive new,. 4 '-iriarkfit f&ienhanced B~O&B, such AS mediateLY blue topaz and heat-treated sapphire, I \ whichwere now available in hundteds of tlittuaands - even mill.Mns - of carats. , .h the diamorid indHfitijvatone, the li?@0sushered in tremendous changes. Over the It~~rsk~fihe<te(*d~,pj~diictihlt ta.~s'tl almost 2 '1%times,:frqm atbut 40 million estate to ~l,&ost1d0millioncsmtfiper y$ak<Australiavfetik frmialmos't no production itthe beghfiing;d.ftedecade.to34 million carata pet year attlieend; Botswana, too, *at hd .ta,ov^y1.5 hrii1towcfl;rdtapeiyear. with its supply of low-cost labor, India > 'I hiw. &riifirge.d.ai ori6 of the. n(0st effective cutting centers. This has brought a new dimension to tha quality of diamond that can be cut and still produce a profit, with many pikea ifr~gh that were formerly cortsidertd industrial grade now being faceted, .~ccording'irf$- N;~hirrn'a; president bf Hindustan Diaitimd, 60 to 70 millton carats of :diam&ds through Indiain 198Tf &t the end of the decade, India boasted a mind- boggling /aoO~ diamond cuttern, ^.hop&the-aificlesin this ~frospectiveissue will help clarify many of the changes Wihdt have taken plate over the past decade, in all areas of gemology. The decade began on an economic high, only to witness a withering of the traditional jewelry GEMS & GEMOLOGY Spring 1990 1 new techiaol&e& for ma stones, .&i<lenttfyinà :the of thy.lire kchnelq@ t&t.i*e, D~riagthe [email protected]& (o'b unique perspective that Drs. $j-k^fe.^i^.Res^man.@ve:to adv.a.iceeingem a^eftttfi~~~-~ .uoai especially tanthe ~I~~~KW.types,ds~~to~~~~. Ibcoflchde the re~~~ct~~~~~dr~trf~termn~~1ism-'~t~~9t^wsk~ii^f the 1980shMShe kuks.oilite..impi~t sew syppitea:irf ~MBSoii ftshion; describes trends in cGting, jqwlqy' ksigrt,, .iyd key de&gners.