ZOOBOMBING AND OTHER URBAN BIKE TOURING ADVENTURES IN PORTLAND OREGON between the Broadway and Sellwood bridges along both sides of the Willamette River. The sky is blue. The temperature mild. Portlanders are out in force to recreate. The downtown Saturday market is in full swing. Dragon Boats race near the Haw- thorne Bridge. Cyclists of all types and ages are riding the full catalog of bikes — fixies, recumbents, beach cruisers, mountain bikes, racers, and tricycles. We gaze out across the sparkling river at the downtown skyline, and I think, Story and photos by Willie Weir “Where are we going to stay tonight.” Cities are always the hardest part of a bike trip. They tend to be impersonal compared to small-town America. lie awake on a summer night pon- creative, different, and exotic aspects are The Beginning and read the Bike lanes are clearly “Willie?” dering my travel options. I need missing. The trip begins the way I wish every Sunday New York marked with signs It’s a young couple, Kelly and Ben. I something new, creative, different, I have to think outside the box. No. trip would — on a train. I love trains. Times while we telling you where don’t know them, but Kelly went to the exotic … and cheap. I also need Maybe the answer is inside the box. Maybe even more than bikes. If they rolled along the you are going. And University of Oregon in Eugene and at- Isomething short. A week, tops. You see, What if instead of a trip to Portland, I weren’t so damned expensive, I’d buy tracks for the there are wide side- tended several of my presentations. I’m one of the many Americans who convince my wife to go for a bike journey one. three and a half walks, too. They live in an apartment, but assure hasn’t had a stellar financial year — but in Portland — within the city limits. And I’ve always joked that you can set your hour journey. We grab our us their fellow tenants won’t mind if we I still want to squeeze in a bicycle trip. what if, rather than the normal way of watch by a German or Japanese train, The Portland bikes, load on our pitch our tent in the courtyard. With There isn’t enough time or money for visiting a city on a bike (getting a hotel while with Amtrak you can only set your train station panniers and, armed lodging secured and new friends found any of the top destinations on my list: and going day rides), we approach it like calendar. But the Amtrak Cascades route greets you in Eu- with seven detailed we ask, “Ever been Zoobombing?” Madagascar, Ethiopia, Spain/Portugal, or all our other trips — fully-loaded touring from Seattle to Portland is uncharacteris- ropean fashion. cycling maps cover- They haven’t, but are eager to try. Bolivia. bikes, tent, stove, the works. No hotels. tically reliable. And they have racks for It doesn’t assume ing every sector of Zoobomb occurs in Portland on Sun- Then I think, “What about Portland?” No reservations. No itinerary. bikes. That’s right, no nightmare bike- you have a car or the city, pedal off on day nights after 10:00 PM . It is not a city- Not Maine, but Oregon. Sure. I could pull I’m not sure who thinks I’m crazier, box scenarios. (Just remember to make a someone with a car to pick you up. our urban adventure. sanctioned event, and it’s not particularly off a short and cheap trip to Portland. my wife, Kat, or my editor. It doesn’t reservation for yourself and your bike.) The Greyhound bus terminal and We head straight for one of the safe, but in the opinions of Willie, Kat, With the decision made, only the new, matter. They both agree. So Kat and I sipped coffee, relaxed, a streetcar stop are 500 feet away. gems — a scenic bike/pedestrian loop Kelly, and Ben, it’s a blast. Zoobombers board the light rail with A seasoned Zoobomb veteran passes me their bikes and ride to Washington Park at over 55 MPH . Nuts & Bolts: Portland Station which, at 260 feet below the sur- The group gathers up on the hill above face, is the deepest train station in North the zoo, chatting and listening to bad Transportation: Camping: Wild camping is not allowed on America. Elevators whisk you up to the 1980’s music from a small boom box, Amtrak (round trip from Seattle): $56. I Sauvie Island. There is one campground surface. before zipping down for the third and used a friend-travels-free coupon. Bikes option. Island Cove Park (sauvieisland. A group of at least 75 people has al- final run. are $5 each way. Total: $76. org/2007/07/29/island-cove-park). Tent ready gathered at the top of the hill above We arrive back at Kelly and Ben’s site for bicycle travelers, $12 (this camp- the Oregon Zoo when we arrive. With apartment at 1:30 AM . Too tired to set up Lodging: ground fills quickly in the summer months). our “regular” bikes, we are a bit out of a tent, we crash on the floor. One paid campsite. Three nights pitched in It is then a 10-mile bike ride to the Sauvie place. Kids bikes are the norm. Mostly Coffee. Must have coffee backyards/gardens. One night on floor of Island Park and Ride. You can catch the ones with coaster brakes. Some have been The next morning, we breakfast at apartment. One night on futon. Total: $12. No. 17 Bus into downtown or take the bus modified to look more like crotch rockets. Cup & Saucer (one of the approximately to a light rail station and transfer. Except for the headlights and red three million places to drink coffee in Food/Beverage: flashing taillights, it’s dark. Safety Portland). After our late night Zoobomb Here is where costs can run the gamut. Hostel: Hostelling International, instructions are given and then a count- experience, we decide on a flatter, mel- Eat out every meal and go out for drinks Hawthorne Hostel (portlandhostel.org). down from 10 begins, with “Zoobomb” lower ride and head east on Tillamook, and you can top $100 a day easily. Shop This hostel is perfectly located in the replacing “Blast Off.” one of the many “bicycle boulevards” in in local grocery stores, eat at the occa- Hawthorne District, one of the most bike- Laughter and short yips of delight and Portland. These streets are signed as bike sional food cart, and limit your coffee con- friendly places in a bike-friendly city. Dorm an occasional “on your left” mix with the routes and have traffic-calming devices sumption, $25 to 30 a day. beds run $19 ($23 during the high season magical whirring of bike wheels as the and an occasional dead end for cars with No budget constraints … Portland has — May through October) Rooms run $48 group bombs (or glides) back down to the a pass-through for bikes. many fine hotels, restaurants, and some of ($55 during high season). city. We merge onto the I-205 bike path the best pubs anywhere to tempt your pal- The entire group gets on the next and out to the Marine Drive path along ate and whet your whistle. Other information: train for round two. The elevators are the Columbia River (this is also the bike Easy access. Portland’s Amtrak station was Our trip total: approximately $315. Bicycle Transportation Alliance packed like those 1950s scenes of human route to the airport), before swinging developed with car-free travel in mind. (bta4bikes.org): The driving force behind telephone-booth stuffing. “Hell Run” around through St. George and pedaling By Train or Bus: many of the bike improvements in Portland. is announced, and the second bomb in- out to Sauvie Island. At 33 square miles land is a developer’s dream come true. Yet The Amtrak and Greyhound stations are as cludes a quick U-turn onto Highway 26. (Manhattan is 23 square miles), Sauvie Is- instead of housing tracts and malls, the convenient as it gets. Roll off the train and BikePortland.org: Most everything you island is home to organic farms and wild- into downtown Portland. need to know about Portland bike events, life refuges. The little-trafficked roads culture, and advocacy. make Sauvie a local cyclist’s favorite. By Plane: We camp at Island Cove Park — $17 There are bicycle paths from Portland’s Portland Bike Maps: To download for a tent site, discounted to $12 because airport to downtown (about 13 miles), so no Portland’s excellent neighborhood we arrive on bikes. Mt. Hood looms to need to take a cab. You can also take MAX bike maps go to www.portlandonline. the east. Stars twinkle. Owls hoot. We are light rail into downtown. Bikes are allowed com/TRANSPORTATION/index. 10 miles from downtown Portland. Urban camping. Who says you can’t find and the fare for adults is $2.30, or you can cfm?a=70221&c=34809, or you can Multi-modal day a campsite in the city? spring for the all-day pass at $4.75. order them over the phone at: 503-823- We put our bikes on the No. 17 bus 2925, ext. 2. at the Sauvie Island Park and Ride the full-on urban adventure, including tent and Lodging: next morning. The bus driver sees our stove, in Portland. Here are a few options Not everyone is going to want to do a panniers and gives us “Larry’s special” (a for those on a limited budget: free day pass).