: VOYAGE Of- HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP ALCESTE, CHINA, COREA, AND THE ISLAND OF LEWCHEW, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF HER SHIPWRECK. Bv JOHN M'LEOD, M.D., SURORON OR THE AlrRSTE. THE THIRD EDITION. LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. 1819 . JAMES WOOD, ESQ., OP POTTER HILL, THE following PAGES ARE INSCRIBED, AS A TESTIMONY OF THE HIGH RESPECT AND ESTEEM IN WHICH HE IS HELD BY THE AUTHOR ; ADVERTISEMENT 10 THE THIRD EDITION. Tiik Aullior of the following pages has attempted to narrate (in the best and shortest way he can) the occur- rences of a voyage rendered remarkable by a combina- tion of extraordinary events, and the circumstance of a communication with an interesting people, with whom, for the lirst time, Europeans have had any intercourse and he has ventured a few occasional remarks, precisely as they arose in his mind on the spot, and which more mature rellection has not induced him to alter. He is aware that his thoughts, as well as his mode of expressing them, may be liable to comment ; but he hopes that those who are mighty in criticism will be merciful in censure, and not visit with asperity that which is humble in pretension. Written at the mess-table on our passage homewards, it is not likely to possess that polished style (oi re- spectable size) it might have obtained b> resorting to VI AOVtUTlSKMENT. Other aids ; but, submitted to the review of those cri- tics who witnessed the scenes it describes, it acquired, from that circumstance, a stamp of authenticity perhaps of greater importance to the reader. The Author’s acknowledgments are due to Lieut. Dwarris for four Drawings, very correctly portraying the costume of the Coreans and the people of Lewchew. For that part of the chart which marks the Alceste’s route, (corresponding with the original sent into office by the Commander of the expedition,) he is indebted to Mr. Mayiic. The eastern coast of Corea is taken from Broughton. The Lewchewan Isles arc laid down from our own observation, and from the chart of the Jesuits, where it is confirmed by Broughton and Pferoiise. DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. Toface Portrait of Sir Murray Maxwell • » • .Title-Page Chart of the Yellow ami Eastern Seas.,^ 28 Islanders of Sir James HalPs Group 44 Corean Chief and Attendants . • • 46 Lewchewan Chief and Attendants 76 Garden of the Temple at Lewchew 8f) Fort Maxwell • . • 265 VOYAGE OF Ills MAJESTY’S SHIP ALCESTE, TO « CHINA, COREA, LEWCIIEW. CHAPTER T. ^ Voyagefrom England to the Brazils^ the Cape of Good Hope^ Java^ and the Gulf of Pc- iche-lee. The British Government, on tiie repre- sentation of the Coujrt of Direetors of the East-India Company, respeeting the trade with China, decided, with the view of re- lieving that branch of its commerce from the increasing vexatious in)positions of the local authorities of Canton, on the mea- sure of sending an embassy to the court of Pekin. As on a former occasion of a si- milar kind, h distinguished nobleman had been selected to fill the situation of Em- » bassador Extraordinary from the King of B 2 VOYAGli OF H. AI. S. ALOKSTE Great ]>rilain to the Emperor of China, who carried out with him a mimerous suite, com})oscd of gentlemen well skilled in every branch of natural knowledge?, with many curious and costly ])rcsents, so it. was now determined to leave no- thing short that could contribute to the sj)lendour and respectability ol' the pre?- sent embassy. The Right Honorable Lord Amherst (who had already filled the high situation of Embassador at the court of Sicily,) was appointed to conduct this dif- ficult and delicate mission. ^Ir. Henry Ellis (Ibrmerly employed in a successful negotiation with the King of Persia,) Avas named Secretiiry of Embassy, with dormant powers to act as Minister Plenipoten- tiary, should any accident to the Em- bassador render that circumstance ne- cessary. The Hon. Jefi’ery Amherst, as Page ; Mr. Haync, as Private Secretary ; Mr. Abel, as Surgeon and Naturalist ; the Rev. John Griffith, as Chaplain; Mr. Ilavell, as* Artist; and Dr. -Lynn, with Mr. Marrige, Mr. Poole, and some others TO CHINA, OOREA, AND LEWCIIEW. 3 to fill the respective departraents, consli- liited the suite of his Excellency. Lieut. Cooke, of the Iloyal Marines, was also attached to the embassy, on its landing in China, the guard being selected from that corps. 'J’he Honorable Mr. Abbot, Messrs. Marlin, and Somerset, were likewise added to it at tins period. JMany valuable presents, supplied, as on the former occasion, by the East-India Company, for the Emperor and his Minis- ters, consisting of specimens of our im- proved manufactures, made hands, were also prepared. The command of the naval pa];-! ofi the expedition Avas in- trusted to Captain (now Sir) Murray Max- Avcll ; and the Alcestc, a frigate of Ibrty-six guns, Avas fitted up for the reception of the Embassador and suite. His Majesty's brig Lyra, commanded by Capt. Basil Hall, and the General HcAvitt Indiaman, by Capt. Campbell, accompanied the Alceste, the latter carrying out the presents. On the 9th of Eebruary, 1816, the ships sailed from Spithead, and soon cleared the Channel, wkh a favourable breeze, Avhich I -: 4 VOYAtiE OF II. M. S. ALCF.STE c'ontiniicd with iis to Madeira, where, we arrived on the 18lh. In runclial road wi; found the Phaidon, haviinj; Sir Hudson and Lady Lowe, with their suite, on board, in their way to St. Helena; and the ?siger, witliMr. Jhigot, on his mission to America. Our stay here was only twelve hours, and, in the evening, we pursued our course to the south-Avestward. The Avealhiu’ liecom- ing hourly Avarmer, our jjcople, Avho had been badly clothed, and had sufl’ercd a gootl deal from the severity of the cold in fitting out the ship, now began to thaAv a little things Avere beginning to find their [iroper places in the ship ; anti those unaccustomed to the rolling motion had, by this time, at (j[uired their sea-legs. On the 4th March, in the evening, at the moment of crossing the equinoctial line, the voice of some one, as from the sea, announced himself as Nep- tune’s eldest son, and, after putting the usual interrogatories, added, that his father being a little indisposed, and rather' s(|ueamish about expefeing himself to the night air, had delbrye’d his visit until the morning, Avhen he Avould personal!}' call on board to TO CHINA, COKKA, AND LEWClIliW, inspect tlu; strangers who were now enter- ing his dominions. The son of Neptune seemed now to sink again into the deep. In the morning, his godship, agreeably to promise, appeared seated in his car (a gun-carriage), with his trident and other insignia, attended by Amphitrite, and all his usual train f)f inferior deities. lie was received b}"^ a strangc-looking guard of his own, the band striking up “ Jltile Britan- niiir After paying his respects to the Em- bassador, the Caj)tain, and the numerous spectators, the novices, of whom/J,ierc were not a few, were forthwith shaved, according to a practice imntemorial, with a rusty iron hoop, full of notches ; and the lather being- washed off, by playing the fire-engine in their faces, they were then wiped dry with a dirty swab. Mutji mirth and good hu- mour prevailed, (for none were foolish enough to be angry ;) and a double allow- apcc of grog finished the ceremony. AVe cxpericncecf none of the calms usual near the line, and ' nothing of momeilt occurred until we reached the lat 20’ 4” south, long. .‘31'’ 52 west, on the l6th Maych, when the 6 VOYAGE OV It. M. h. ALCEnTE Lyra and Ilcwitt were directed to make the best oF their way to the Cape of Good Hope, whilst the Alceste proceeded to the capital of the Brazils, where she arrived on the 21st of that month. All the bold, as well as beautiful, features of nature, have conjoined to enrich the scenery of llio Janeiro. The luxuriant de- scriptions of former travellers arc by no means exaggerated, for it would indeed* be difficult to exceed the truth in portraying the sublimity and grandeur of such a scene as presents itself on entering the harbour. The numerous islets appearing on this ex- tensive sheet of water,—its richly-wooded banks, rising like an amphitheatre on eitlicr hand, studded with villages and country scats,—added to the distant view oflofty and picturcsciue mountain;^—fonn, altogether, a very unusual and noble landscape. The death of the queen, which hap- pened the day previous to our arrival, at the good old age of eighty-two,- had rather cast a gloom over the city of St. Sebastian. 'I’he batteries and ships fired fivc-ininute guns during the whole day and night ; the : TO CHINA, COREA, AND LEWCHF.W. I Alceste, Indefatigable, (Capt. FyfFe) and a Spanish frigate, following this example displaying also the usual exterior marks of grief, by hoisting the colours half-staff high, and topping the yards. Our officers like- wise wore ‘crape; and, from a positive order being issued to all the inhabitants to go into mourning, (which none dared, under the severest penalties, disobey), llui prices of all black articles felt a sudden aiul enormous increase. The governmeuL of the Brazils seems perfectly despotic ; and it is painful to ob- serve even Englishmen lose tiit; natural freedom of their character under such do- minion. Some,* who from long residence had imbibed the feelings of the Portuguese, would, in answering any {Question relative to public affairs, look cautiously around, to see who was near them, and then whisper their reply.