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N4 -tI- » (n. • V--* .. •* * ,• < • < f ^ r- 1 » v <*** *-» !•** * 1 * » - » I ->* V tf " < « V*V 4 1 I * < , p 4 1 * «y .**’ ^Tt * •/:;>.* • -1 4^- » ••»,- »•*,• * .-I •*.'> I «*c«'v < .. ; 1 • ‘ ’ • 1 ‘ i • i > * r V-p « | j j»i • i JML »i> • f » » V w 4^ . 1 --- ••* ' 1 ’ ‘ 1 • • • ‘ f > 4 * . >4-44>4'-_»vj4i+' v i * 1 '4 **f*1 » ' K‘ l‘ MW 4 >// .- *-*» * •• ,.-.' • **•>•'• - i ’ -*4.* » •• • •,>» 4 ;'.!iUV.V'---... 'iv.-iI* J jffiKgg ' ‘ ' * • • •.pi* ‘.-4«l p.f *—t > -v » l . *. k * » . * .' .» • • v*-cv ',v.-a?,+r- 4^i ^ 4 V I V ,. - »,».* **'.'.W.:. • .p.*.- . jH|r ifM'i' ( 11 eff >»*-•# kp-> 1 •’ . k » T.i.' 1 . ‘ nWfiV* * / . 1 1 ' , : • . r>:c: /.iff.-.- . iES s •. ‘.’l • 1< . ox *. : . p,... • ' 1 - »•>•' • - • * *• • * • f • r # ?-<* », 1- » •:< >>.,• * ’ » • ... ......... •• - . _ _ • * ’• 1 1 1 • a * • •. • i 1. >• f*-r rr » »-* ’**>•< r r . , lW->4 U II I ' *-•' u • •-*••! • * '• »'*. f * *-»1 ,p» ,* *f 4’! I l-A r t . 1 • ' ... ... J I ... - 1'^.*' i 'i .. .. “ .... , >3 I* . T 1 • 1 1 • > /•» * * * 4 i i *»i i *,i i v *kji i i t ' [W. j *-V* i f ( , ; i- 1 Y Y»*i ! TftV .» p.v > * mils 1 #.•••?.*• -h- • ajis? o /; iv v ; -0 ‘ - 1 ;; l .« i » ,vy'-4 roi rlS r-> > f-1 t *»f f > 1 1 . ' ; ' 4 ' 1 1 !- 1 • t ’i*; ? ,', : 0[ -.r: v.;f p i ' • '• «•*» •'-* < <••• »• .• *.•• ‘i - fj' j it* -t > > I • !, y--v ;. jfc gwroBSag^, . am m ; % f ,' . .r:- j . f tfeafei ^. ‘•’v mmft ; 4 . ' > - r 1 v.Lii'L-.LT .* : : f *:+:* ; 1-c-^ : J w :; - . C H R 0 N I C L li S OF F A S H I 0 N, FROM TIIE TIME OF ELIZABETH TO TIIE EARLY TART OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, IN MANNERS, AMUSEMENTS, BANQUETS, COSTUME, &c. By MRS. STONE, AUTHORESS OF “THE ART OF NEEDLEWORK." “THE COTTON LORD," “MISS PENN AND HER NIECE," “THE YOUNG MILLINER," etc. “ LORE, WHICH WIG-CROWNED HISTORY SCORNS.” IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. L O NOON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, UubliSljrr in <©rtunary to fetr iflairStp. 1845. a PREFACE. The favour with which her first effort of author- ship* was received, leads the writer of these volumes to hope that another work on the same principle — that of raising a superstructure of amusement on the firm basis of history and truth —may not be unwelcome to those who seek to beguile their leisure hours with something more substantial than fiction. In this hope these pages have been produced : her materials have been carefully and studiously collated, and the authoress has rejected many an ornamental allusion, and many a beguiling hypo- thesis, which appeared to be unsustained in history. * The “ Art of Needlework.” Edited by the Right Hon. the Countess of Wilton. Colburn, 1840 . VOL. I. A PREFACE. With more regret she has turned aside from much, both truthful and interesting, which, claim- ing no affinity to fashionable life, could not with propriety be adopted by her. Lambeth, April, 1845. — CONTENTS TO THE FIRST VOLUME. Introduction ........ Page 1 CHAPTER I. Banquets and Food. — Refinement in Eating. —Moderation only by Comparison.—Restrictions on the Clergy.—Elizabeth at Gorhambury. Breakfast at Cowdrey.—Etiquette.—Ceremonial of Tudor Sovereigns. Elizabeth’s Dinner-Table. — Forks. — Feeding with the Fingers. Ewerer : in Edward the Fourth’s time — in Elizabeth’s— in James’s. Sweet Herbs.—Table Appointments. — Dinner Hour. — French Cookery. —A Cook. —Lord Fairfax’s Rules.—The Carte—Particular Dishes. Harrison’s Account of the Dinner-Table.— Favourite Strange Dishes. Feast at Utrecht. — The Peacock.— Peacock Feast.— Live Birds in a Pie. — Dwarf in a Pie.— Quaking Custard.— Perquisites to Diners. Pastry and Confections.— “ Sotelties.”— Feast of Archbishop Warham. — Banquet or Dessert at the Earl of Hertford’s. — The Destruction of Troy in a Dessert..— Unsightly Accompaniments at Dinner-Tables. Banqueting Houses. — Materials of Desserts. —Marchpane.—Ipocras. Wines. — James’s Punctuality at Meals.— Enormous Fish.—Ante-sup- pers.—A Pie.—Star of Fashion: the Earl of Carlisle.—Sucking Pigs. Entertainments to the Spanish Ambassador.—Picnic.—Jeffrey Hudson. —Banquets at the Duke of Newcastle’s.—Banquets at York House Refinement of them— Ballets between the Courses.— Cromwell’s Ban- quets—his Love for Orange and Veal. — Few State Banquets in Charles the Second's Reign.— De Grammont’s Sarcasm on one. — Sovereigns served on the Knee.—French Cookery.—Indecorum at Banquets —No Knives or Napkins at a City Feast.— Feast at Chantilli.—Pyramids of Fruit.— Duke of York’s Sauce.—Profusion in Food.— Appetite of Louis the Fourteenth. — Libations. — Ale. — Punch. — Sack Posset. — Great Cistern of Sack-Posset at Belvoir. — Half-pint Bumpers common. — VOL. I. b — VI CONTENTS. Toasts.—Kitcat Club.—Lady-carvers. — Lady M. W. Montagu making Butter. — Hours of Meals. — Suppers.— French Cookery— Mr. Bicker- staff on it. —Our great Victories attributable to Beef and Mutton.—Im- possible to Fight on anything else. — Mr. Sheridan’s Exhibition of real Ancient Cookery.—Tea and Coffee.— Coffee Roasted and Ground at Table.—Tea much slandered in being always associated with Scandal. —Ludicrous Mistakes made in its Preparation.—Duke of Newcastle’s French Cook.— Eustache Ude.— Dinner at the Duke of Northumber- land’s. — Curious Desserts. — Citadel of Carlisle. — Walton Bridge. Illuminated Vauxhall. —-Chase at Herenhausen. — Extravagant Bill of Fare.— Carte of a City Dinner.—Dinner Parties not Common.—Hatfield Gala. —Ball and Supper at Windsor. — George the Third at Table. Napoleon at Table. — George the Third’s Wine. — Ffite at Carlton Palace.— Dinner at Lord Castlereagh’s in 1818. — “Dining Out” in 1844. .......... Page 18 CHAPTER II. Manners.— Fashion of Periodical Migration to London—First Notice of it — Rapid Spread of the Custom — its Evil Effects — Enactments against it —Ruinous Consequences of it.—“ Masterless Men.”—Intense Love for London.— Cheapside.— Day of a Fashionable Gallant.— St. Paul’s. — Smoking. — Professors of Smoking.—Smoking “ Artillery.” Discharge of Whiffs.—Gallant at an Ordinary.—Gaming.—Fighting and Swearing. — Men and Women Swear. — Elizabeth’s Oaths. — Military Oaths. — Sarsnet Oaths. — Petty Salvos. — Clipt Oaths. — Fashionable Asseverations in the Last Century.—“ Sentimental Swearing.”— Brawl- ing-schools and Masters of Fence.—Vincentio Saviolo.— Fifty-one Heads of Lying. — Dancing a Requisite Accomplishment. — Lord Strafford’s Daughters. — Elizabeth’s Dancing.— Star of Fashion : Sir Christopher Hatton.—Rules for Dancing at Lincoln’s Inn.— Dancing at Court. Education of a Young Gentleman. — The Brawl. — The Pavan. — The Measure. — The Canary Dance. — Letter of Charles the Second on Dancing.—Dancing of Queen Mary at the Hague.— Indecency of Man- ners of Court Ladies.—Account of the Wedding of Sir Philip Herbert. Education of Women.—Harrison’s Account of the Ladies of Elizabeth’s Court. Star of — Fashion : Countess of Pembroke.—Housewifely Qualifi- cations of Ladies.— Distilled Waters.— Lady Harrington’s Comfits. Lady Mildmay’s Skill in Cookery.—Compiling Household Rules a fre- quent Occupation of Noblemen and Gentlemen of those days.—Degraded Character of W omen in James the First’s Court.—Masque at Theobald's. —Stars of Fashion: Lady Arabella Stewart; Lady Compton — her Letter.—Requirements of a Lady of Fortune.—Improvement of Man- —1 CONTENTS. VI ners, and Refinement in the Court of Charles the First —Mrs. Hutchin- son’s thereto. : Testimony — Stars of Fashion the Duke of Buckingham ; the Countess of Carlisle the Countess of ; Countess of Leicester ; the Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery. — Cromwell.— Morality and Pro- priety of his Court.—Account of Mr. Hastings.— Charles the Second — Unpleasant Task to Paint the Manners of his Reign—his Enthusiastic Reception — Various Causes of it —his Great Opportunities—his Utter Neglect of them—Advantages Dedueible from his Early Adversity and Unsettled Life — his Unredeemed Licentiousness — the Court took its Tone of Fashion from him. — Louis the Fourteenth—his Immorality of Conduct—his Dignity of Manner, and Scrupulous Regard to Decorum. — Charles’s Open Neglect of all Decorum—and the Duke of York. Star Respectful of Fashion : Lady Denham.— Charles could not enforce Observance. — No Royal Mistress since Jane Shore.—Charles’s Three Mistresses. — French and English Courts both alike in Morals, but strangely different in Manners.— The Courtiers in both took the Tone from their Monarchs.—Maids of Honour of the Duchess of York. Dames du Palais.—The Wit and Grace of the Courtiers tended to hide their Licentiousness. Stars of : the — Fashion the Duke of Buckingham ; Earl of Rochester Etheredge Incredible ; ; Sedley ; Earl of Dorset.— Indelicacy of Manners.—Anecdote of Miss Stewart —of Lady Muskerry. — Ladies Receiving Visitors in Bed. — “Modesty and Gravity” of a Wedding of that Day. — Frolics of Court Ladies— De Grammont’s Ac- count of them—Bishop Burnet’s. — Frolic of the Queen. — Stars of Fashion : Lady Ladies Shrewsbury ; Miss Jennings ; and others.—Court not all Depraved—but many of the Nobility retired from Court.'—Coarse and Masculine Speech of Women of Fashion — their Love of Gaming. Deep Play at the French Court.— Lady Castlemaine’s Play. — Many supported themselves by Play. — Mde. de Sevigne. — Duchess of Maza rin’s Gaming-house.—Reputation sacrificed to the Love of Gaming. •—Prevalent Affectation of Interlarding Discourse with French Phrases. Extract from Dryden exemplifying this.