The Original Beauty Bible Unparalleled Information for Beautiful and Younger Skin at Any Age PAULA BEGOUN BEAUTYPEDIA.COM YOUR ULTIMATE SOURCE FOR CO S METIC PRODUCT REVIEW S The Best of the Best Free Email Updates Subscribe Today Access Paula’s lists of the best Keep up with what’s new on Subscribers have exclusive access to over products or quickly find the Beautypedia.com by signing up for 40,000 skin-care and makeup reviews from product you’re searching for Paula’s FREE Beautypedia Bulletin more than 250 lines plus complete ingredient lists for every skin-care product reviewed Beautypedia.com Real Time Updates FREE Special Reports Thousands of precise, researched, New full line and individual On a wide range of cosmetic topics, and controversial reviews—all online in product reviews added from the best inexpensive products an easily searchable product database! often, so you’ll be better to cosmetics myth-busting informed than ever before! 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Read all about beauty questions and concerns to Paula today! facts and fiction, and pick up expert tips on how to apply makeup to your advantage! Contributor: Bryan Barron Editors: Sigrid Asmus, John Hopper, Stephanie Parsons, Seanna Browder Art Direction, Cover Design, and Typography: Erin Smith Bloom Printing: RR Donnelley Research Assistant: Bryan Barron Copyright © 2009, Paula Begoun Publisher: Beginning Press 1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A Renton, Washington 98057 1st Edition Printing: March 2009 ISBN: 978-1-877988-33-2 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from Beginning Press and/or Paula Begoun, except for the inclusion of quotations in a review. This book is distributed to the United States book trade by: Publishers Group West 1700 Fourth Street Berkeley, California 94710 (510) 528-1444 To the Canadian book trade by: Raincoast Books Limited 9050 Shaughnessy Street Vancouver, B.C., V6P 6E5 Canada (604) 633-5714 To the Australian book trade by: Peribo Pty Limited 58 Beaumont Road Mount Kuring-Gai NSW 2080 Australia 02 9457 0011 TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER ONE— THE BEAUTY INDU S TRY : UNIVER S ALLY CRAZY Why a New Edition ................................................................................................1 All Over the World .................................................................................................1 Let Me Introduce Myself … ...................................................................................2 A Personal Quest ....................................................................................................3 A Personal Beauty Miracle ......................................................................................4 The Best Ingredients for Skin? ................................................................................4 Struggling with the Cosmetics Industry ..................................................................5 Cosmetics Chemistry—An Art and a Science .........................................................6 CHAPTER TWO —UNDER S TA N D I N G THE HYPE Why Cosmetics Companies Can Mislead Legally ...................................................9 The Business of Claim Substantiation—Our Study Shows ...................................11 A Perfect Example of How “Studies” Can Mislead ................................................13 Myth Busting: 30 Major Beauty Myths and the Real Facts ....................................14 Advertising Victims...............................................................................................32 Brand-Name Loyalty ............................................................................................33 Cosmeceuticals: Doctors Get in on the Act ...........................................................34 Why We Believe ...................................................................................................35 The 10 Beauty Commandments Everyone Should Know .....................................39 CHAPTER THREE — FRAUD S & FEARS Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid ......................................................................................41 Mineral Oil and Petrolatum ..................................................................................42 Parabens and Preservatives ....................................................................................42 Nanotechnology ...................................................................................................45 Oxygen for the Skin ..............................................................................................47 Propylene Glycol ..................................................................................................48 Phthalates .............................................................................................................49 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate ..........................................................................................50 Stem Cells in Skin-Care Products? ........................................................................52 Botanicals or All Natural? .....................................................................................53 Drinking Collagen to Fight Wrinkles? ...................................................................53 CHAPTER FOUR —ORGANIC CO S METIC S DO “NATURAL ” ONE BETTER Organic Cosmetics................................................................................................57 Organic Food’s Relation to Cosmetics...................................................................58 Green Chemistry Defined .....................................................................................58 The Organic Market: Full Steam (Distillation) Ahead! ..........................................59 Check the Labels for the Truth ..............................................................................60 Organic in Name Only? ........................................................................................60 Organic Outrage: The Industry Battles Itself .........................................................61 Other Organic & Pro Natural Groups ..................................................................63 Shopping for Organic Cosmetics ..........................................................................64 CHAPTER FIVE—SKIN TYPE? What Is Skin Type? ...............................................................................................67 What Influences Skin Type? ..................................................................................68 Will My Skin Type Change? .................................................................................68 Will I Ever Have “Normal” Skin? .........................................................................69 Combination Skin Is the Most Confusing Skin Type ............................................69 Unseen Skin Types Below the Surface ...................................................................70 Skin-Care Products Can Influence Skin Type and Not in a Good Way! .....................................................................................70 Everyone Has Sensitive Skin .................................................................................70 Mature Skin Folly: Skin Type Has Nothing to Do with Your Age .........................71 Does Skin Color or Ethnicity Affect Skin Care? ....................................................71 Determining Your Skin Type ................................................................................72 CHAPTER SIX—SKIN’S ENEMY : IRRITATION AND INFLAMMATION It Hurts Everyone .................................................................................................77 Inflamm-aging ......................................................................................................77 How to Be Gentle .................................................................................................78 Anti-Irritants and Anti-Inflammatories .................................................................80 Heat Is a Problem .................................................................................................81 Don’t Smoke .........................................................................................................81 Fragrance in Skin-Care Products ...........................................................................82 Allergic Reactions .................................................................................................84