HAND STITCHES FOR ARTISAN TAILORING INDEX 1. Tailor’s tacks 2. Pad stitch 3. Pick stitch 4. “Punto pelota” - Crossed stitch 5. Herringbone stitch 6. Basting stitch 7. Fell stitch 8. Buttonhole stitch 1. TAILOR’S TACKS Tailor’s tacks are made using cotton basting thread. They’re used to transfer markings from one piece of fabric to another. To create the tacks, baste along the marks you want to transfer. Leave every second stitch very loose. When you’ve basted all the markings, pull the two layers of fabric apart and cut the threads through the middle. Be careful not to cut the fabric. 2. ​PAD STITCH Pad stitching is used in the following parts of the jacket: - Canvas: the stitch is made with cotton thread. It’s used to hold every layer of the canvas together: interlining, horsehair canvas and felt. Make medium-length skewed stitches through every layer of fabric, going from top to bottom. Don’t allow any ease in. - Lapels: use regular sewing thread in a matching colour. In the lapels, the pad stitch holds the canvas and front panel together. It also gives the lapel its roll. Make small skewed stitches, going from top to bottom. Shape the lapel as you sew. - Collar: use regular sewing thread in a colour that matches the felt undercollar. The pad stitching fixes the felt to the fabric. It also gives the undercollar its roll and curved shape. Make small skewed stitches following the shape of the undercollar. 3. PICK STITCH For the pick stitch, use regular sewing thread. The pick stitch is used to join the edges of two pieces of fabric. Usually, the inside edge is offset slightly. The stitches must always be the same size, quite small and close to the edge of the fabric. There are two phases to the pick stitch: Bringing the needle through the fabric from the underside, and backtacking right next to the thread. 4.“PUNTO PELOTA” - CROSSED STITCH For this stitch, use cotton basting thread. This stitch is used to keep the opening for the hip pockets shut before you sew the welts. The stitch should be skewed. Sew from top to bottom, making sure the edges of the fabric don’t overlap. 5. HERRINGBONE STITCH You’ll use cotton basting thread or regular sewing thread depending on where you use the stitch. Work from left to right, keeping the stitches “flexible”. The herringbone stitch is used to hold fabric edges together. Sew from top to bottom, creating crosses with the thread. 6.BASTING STITCH Use cotton basting thread. Basting holds two pieces of fabric together temporarily before sewing them permanently. Depending on what you’re basting, the stitches could be longer or shorter, and straight or skewed. 7.FELL STITCH Use regular thread in a matching colour. The fell stitch is used to permanently fix fabric in place. It’s mainly used for sewing the lining in. The stitches must be very small and always the same size. Make the stitches slightly skewed, and as invisible as possible. 8.BUTTONHOLE STITCH Use silk buttonhole twist. The purpose of the buttonhole stitch is to cover the edges of the buttonhole and to reinforce the fabric around it. The stitches form knots around the edge, which protect the buttonhole from the wear caused by the button being pushed through. Push the needle through from the underside and wrap the thread around it clockwise. Pull tight, making a knot. Master tailor: Agustín García Montero Assistant: Lucía Serrano.