RACHEL HARMEYER ♦ OBJECTS OF IMMORTALITY: HAIRWORK AND MOURNING IN VICTORIAN VISUAL CULTURE 33 Art of Death & Dying Symposium Proceedings In John Everett Millais’ painting Only a Lock of Hair from c. 1857-8, a young woman holds a small pair of scissors in her right hand, poised to sever a lock of her hair that she holds in her left. This painting alludes to the practice, common in Europe and America in the nineteenth century, of I'll weave a bracelet of this hair,-- giving and keeping locks of hair as tokens of affec- Although these locks so hallowed are, tion, as well as mementos of the deceased. Only a It seems like sacrilege to wear Lock of Hair refers to hair given as a love token, Such relics of the dead. while Sarah S. Mower’s poem above refers to hair kept in remembrance of loved ones after their death. The poem also describes the transforma- I've seen them clust'ring 'round a brow tion of the hair into hairwork: “I'll weave a brace- Which drooped beneath affliction's blow, let of this hair.” During the nineteenth century, And slumbers in the church-yard now, hair was often made into hairwork objects and jew- elry: it was an artifact of affection and a material With all its beauty flown. for memory. This sentimental treatment of hair was not a uniquely nineteenth-century phenome- The hand that dressed these locks with care, non: in the anonymous article “The Hair as Re- membrancer,” published in the United States in And 'ranged them 'round that brow so fair, 1848, the author states that “the custom of keep- And oft clasped mine with friendly air, ing the hair of deceased friends, is one of the old- Is turning back to dust. est that we can trace into the records of time.”2 The author goes on to explain that this tradition “has arisen from its convenience, and its being the And closed those eyes, whose radiant beams part which under certain circumstances will last Surpass'd imagination's dreams, the longest of any in the body.”3 Because of its ca- Yet whisp'ring still, were but faint gleams pacity to retain its original qualities even after be- Emerging from the soul. ing severed from the body, hair was seen as sym- bolic of enduring life. Hair itself was a treasured memento, and both locks of hair and hairwork Farewell, dear friend, these locks I'll keep, were exchanged as living, sentimental tokens of Till in the grave with thee I sleep; love and friendship in the eighteenth and nine- There, like thee, may I cease to weep, teenth centuries. And, with thee, wake to sing. 1 In the context of mourning jewelry, hair was seen as a living extension of the departed indi- vidual. This function of hairwork can be under- Sarah S. Mower, 1851 stood when placed in the context of ideal images of death and dying in the visual culture of the nine- teenth century, which equated beauty with life and immortality. The idealized body lying in re- pose, without decay, was a pervasive image in the visual culture of the nineteenth century. The de- sire to preserve the bodies of the dying was acted out on an aesthetic level: by capturing the last mo- 34 Art of Death & Dying Symposium Proceedings ments of the subject’s life in a sketch or painting, ize the Victorian period as “a time in which good taking death masks, through post-mortem photog- taste was all too often overwhelmed by the quest raphy, and through the preservation of a lock of for the sentimental, the unusual, and the the loved one’s hair. In what follows, I will argue bizarre.”9 This is tame criticism when compared that nineteenth-century sentimental hairwork was to the introduction to an Antiques exhibition cata- inextricably linked to portraiture, even when it logue in 1945, quoted by Irene Guggenheim Na- was not anchored to the miniature portrait. Like varro: “The gruesome idea of wearing jewelry the miniature portrait and the photographic por- made from the hair of a loved one who has died is trait, hairwork was an objectified extension of the hard for the matter-of-fact person of today to body, kept as a personal and sentimental memo- grasp… These articles of jewelry were ‘worn with rial. For those who possessed it, hairwork had the sadistic pleasure.’”10 capacity to reconstruct the body into an ideal form This assessment of hairwork ignores its that could live beyond death. meaning and social use in the nineteenth century Like postmortem photography and other and demonstrates a lack of understanding of not objects associated with mourning and memoriali- only these objects, but the nineteenth-century ap- zation from the nineteenth century, hairwork has proach toward sentimentality and death in gen- unfortunately often been dismissed as a disturb- eral. While nineteenth-century attitudes toward ing relic from the past. Today, the Victorians in death and dying certainly differed from those in particular are often misunderstood as pathologi- current circulation, it is incorrect to state that the cally death-obsessed, and their culture is seen as original intent of hairwork was macabre or grue- 4 one celebrating death. Nineteenth-century hair- some. Nineteenth-century society allowed and ex- work has long been characterized as “a macabre pected its members to express their emotions and and unsavory product of a bygone era,” discussed to grieve openly through the social ritual of mourn- primarily in connection to mourning culture.5 ing. Rather than being obsessed with death, James Stevens Curl, a historian of architecture, nineteenth-century Westerners were consumed discusses hairwork only in connection with mourn- with the need to memorialize the lives of their ing jewelry of the period and what he terms “the loved ones, to objectify and treasure them through Victorian celebration of death.” Curl describes talismans of memory. mourning jewels including hairwork as “curiously The preservation of a lock of a loved one’s unnerving objects” which “often excel in the art of hair or its transformation into sentimental hair- evoking sentiment.”6 Curl applauds the intricacy work was a practice well-established by the nine- and craftsmanship in hairwork, but admits that teenth century, though the diversity of styles of “the affect on contemporary sensibilities is likely hairwork expanded greatly during that time pe- riod. Ornamental hairwork first gained popularity to be one of distaste.”7 in the seventeenth century, where it was “fash- Misunderstandings regarding the purpose i o n e d a s b o t h l o v e t o k e n s a n d d e a t h of nineteenth-century hairwork unfortunately 11 abound, and this is reflected in the early literature memorabilia.” In the seventeenth century, hair on the subject. In a 1974 article discussing hair- was plaited and preserved under crystal in work in the Minnesota Historical Society’s collec- brooches that often also had enamel memento tions, Virginia Rahm writes “of all the fads and mori motifs, such as a skeleton holding an hour- fashions which flourished in the Victorian era, glass. The date of death and the name of the indi- that of creating and wearing ornaments made of vidual commemorated often appeared on the re- human hair ranks among the oddest and one of verse, and it was common for these objects to be given as tokens of remembrance. The brooches the more macabre.”8 Rahm goes on to character- 35 Art of Death & Dying Symposium Proceedings functioned as mourning jewels—the hair pre- Hairwork attained new heights of fashion- served under crystal belonged to a specific person, able popularity in the nineteenth century, reach- was the element that personalized it, and it could ing its zenith from 1830-1880.15 Hairwork was be worn during the period of mourning. The seven- combined with other media and sometimes hair- teenth century hairwork mourning jewel acted as work objects are not easily classified, as the materi- a memorial and as a secular relic: a reminder of als comprising the object often span categories: a the specific loss of an individual loved one as well painted miniature often includes hairwork on the as a general exhortation to ‘remember your death’ reverse, a hairwork bracelet may include a portrait (memento mori) and morally prepare for one’s photograph, and the treatment of the hair itself own mortality. The memento mori aspect of these varies widely, depending on the specifics of time objects had diminished significantly by the nine- and place. The multiplicity of media employed in teenth century, but the memorial function of senti- these objects makes both the act of categorization mental hairwork endured. and the task of uncovering their purpose equally In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, difficult. The form hairwork jewelry took also hairwork was often united with the miniature por- changed over time: after 1830, hair was no longer trait. Cynthia Amnéus, in "The Art of Ornamental merely preserved under glass, but could be elabo- Hairwork,” notes that miniature portraits “were rately braided to form bracelets, necklaces, and often commissioned to commemorate momentous watch chains (Fig. 4.7). A diagram of such an intri- life events such as births, betrothals, deaths, or cately braided bracelet can be seen in this illustra- other joinings or separations.”12 She connects the tion from Mark Campbell’s Self-Instructor in the purpose of the miniature portrait with the senti- Art of Hair Work from 1867 (Fig. 4.8). mental artifact of hair: “like fragments of hair, Helen Sheumaker, author of Love En- they were mementoes meant to maintain a bond twined: The Curious History of Hairwork in between the sitter and the beholder whether sepa- America, explains that by this time hairwork was rated simply by distance or death.”13 In miniature connected to “sentimental fashion.”16 She differen- portraits, the hair belonging to the individual de- tiates between the styles of hairwork in the eight- picted often appeared on the reverse.