The VViandanteiandante PPathath Il SentierSentieroo del VViandanteiandante Texts and photographies by Angelo Colombo Translation by Jennifer Pirelli An interesting excursion itinerary that passes through our zone is that of “Sentiero del Viandante”, the ancient way of connection between Lecco and Valtellina, recently recovered, that was once indicated as “Via Ducale” or “Via Regia” and in nearer times also as “ Strada dei viandanti” (“road of the wayfarers”) or “Napoleo- na”. The old way had been neglected when the austrian government decided to open a new military road for the Stelvio, founding it on the intersections of Colico and Lecco, completed in 1832 following the pathway of the present provincial road 72. The path, that passes through the territory of Dervio, starts from Abbadia and arrives at Colico, following in the middle side of the mountain the eastern shore of the Lario and it is indicated with road signs. The itineraries proposed that have Dervio as the point of start, offer in the space of a few hours, the best of the landscape characteristics of this territory, with fascinating views, geological singulari- ties, historical and spiritual stories, rural buildings, vineyards and terracings, but also arboreal species and wild fauna; to taste moments of diversion, absorbed in an atmosphere that connects the lake with the sky. Panorama of the path from Dorio to Dervio 2 The Viandante Path Il Sentiero del Viandante Dervio - Lezzeno - Bellano Lenght: 4,5 Km Duration: 1.5-2 Hours The itinerary starts from the railway station (FS) of Dervio (see the map on page 14, turning into the stairs and going on straight, you will find on the left the Cavour square with the De Magni XIV century palace, that had been the house of the bishop Mgr Francesco Magni, dead martyr in China. At the crossing you get the road on the right along the via Diaz and you walk across it until you reach, at the point of the Varrone river, the pathway of the “Sentiero del Viandante”. Here you can admire the church of St.Quirico and Giu- litta with the nice Romanesque bell Map to 40.000 by Raffaella Mastalli 3 Church of San Quirico e Giulitta Panorama of Dervio from Ronchi tower (XI-XII century). The itinerary goes on along a road suitable for vehicles, via Duca d’Aosta, to reach the locality Balma, where you find a public wash house, fed by the overlooking Sedeia valley. This is the starting point of the equipped climbing cliff, that uses the rocks of the massive promontory that dominates Dervio. Proceeding along the road, you arrive at the “Crotto del Cech”, from where before the underpass of the railway, starts the nice mule track paved with cobblestones that goes up towards the cottages of the “Chignolo”. Here you can already admire the view of the new touristic port, the sailing centers and of the peninsula of Dervio. When you have crossed the valley of the “Chignolo”, you go up toward the “Ronchi”, a group of cottages placed on the descendants of the “Muggio” mountain, meeting along the mule track: carvings, cupels and steps dug in the rock signed by the age- old crossing of the sleds. At the junction with the road to the “Ronchi”, you go to the right in the direction south along the pathway, where beautiful panoramic The path excavated in the rock 4 The Viandante Path Il Sentiero del Viandante views of Bellano and Dervio open, with the lake often streaked by sailing boats. Crossed, on the wooden bridge, the “Val Granda” you enter the territory of Bellano, meeting a little after the locality of Verginate with restructured cottages and a little chapel of baroque style. Proceeding between the terracings with traces of the vine and olive trees cultivations, you overtake a val- ley from which starts the asphalted road that takes to the high part of the country hamlet Oro, this develops with its restructured rural houses till the shore of the lake and from them stands up the bell tower of the church St.Gottardo. Proceeding you turn on the left and take the steps of recent construction that go up towards Pendaglio, at the junction you take the path on the right, that, going over a foun- tain, crosses the lawns in a banked position in respect to the motorway. You cross the shadowy valley of the mills with the ruins of the buildings and then you proceed between lawns with barns and chestnut trees, overtaking a valley with a stony bridge. In this way you reach the first cottages and houses of Lezzeno and crossing the provincial road to Vendrogno you pass near an Farm house at Lezzeno old public wash house in the middle of the historical centre. The pathway reaches Lezzeno’s sanctuary (mt.370) erected between the years 1690 and 1704, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and from this square you admire a lovely view on the lake. After a break for the visit, you go to the back of the church from where you take a pathway in direction south that crosses an 5 asphalted road and then reaches the provincial road. Taking the road on the left you enter Ombriaco, where you can see the church of St. Ber- nardino. Before reaching the steps that go up to the church, you take the mule track on the right in steep descent towards Bellano, walking along the cemetery until you reach the church of St.Rocco. The “Sentiero del Viandante” continues on the left in direction of Biosio, crossing the bridge on the Pioverna river, but our itinerary ends walking Sanctuary of Lezzeno down the steps that take to the Parish church of Bellano Orrido, natural monument that deserves a visit, with a series of jumps of water and high waterfalls inside ravines. Then you pass near the parish church, dedicated to the saints Nazareno and Celso, and the building of industrial archeology, ex Cotonificio cantoni. Finally, crossing the Pioverna on the provincial 72, you reach the station of Bellano, from where with all the local trains or the buses for the Valvarrone you can return to Dervio. 6 The Viandante Path Il Sentiero del Viandante Dervio - Corenno Plinio - Dorio Lenght: 4 Km Duration: 1.5-2 Hours Map to 40.000 by Raffaella Mastalli 7 This itinerary also starts from the train station of Dervio, and following the previous indica- tions you reach the level of the Varrone river, the pathway of the “Sentiero del Viandante”. Here you can admire the church of St. Quirico and Giulitta with the nice Romanesque bell tower (XI-XII century). Starting from the church you cross the bridge again, strategical point of the itinerary and where in medieval times the merchants paid a duty; you take on the right the road via Giglio with the factory buildings of the old obsolete paper mills, following it until you meet the road that goes to the Valvarrone right next to the “Fonte delle Lavine”, from where spring waters come directly from the mountain. After 30 meters on the road, a road sign indicates a nice mule track with terraces sustained by stony massive walls, that go up quickly between lawns, high walls and emerging rocks until the built-up area of Castello. As you reach the area you smell the archaic flavour of a fortified village, rich of episodes that everyone can easily imagine, up to a characteristic arched door of exit towards north: on the side, on top of the hill rises an high tower of the XI-XII century, from the green level where also the old church of St. Leonardo is located, at the present time with baroque characteristic, but existing since the XII century and with a fresco of 1567. The castle (mt.282) observed from the high rocky spur the access to the localities of the Valvarrone, on top of the ravine in which the river rumbles: it was the “Castrum de Orezia”, of the Capitanei of the parish church of Dervio. Castle of Dervio 8 The lawns behind the castle are partly still cultivated with vine; the view of the lake and of the opposite shore are fascinating. Descending and passing near the public wash house and under the overpass you take the asphalted provincial for about 200 meters, until the roundabout of the interchange S.S. 36. Here you go straight on walking along the power station and then the sustaining walls of the dual-carriageway; in Chiari, group of cottages now all reconstructed you will see a fountain. Following the itinerary, on the left you find the rural complex with stony walls that formed the Monastero of Saint Clemente of the Umiliati, known from 1295 and alienated in 1571. A little after you overtake the duct that supplies the hydroelectric generating station of Dervio, and so reappears in its ancient conformation the mule track with a pavement of cobblestones and in certain points with rock carved in steps: lawns, valleys, vines, olives and chestnuts give back, with some rocky cottages, a breathe of some time ago. Between walls with stones, the road descends with a large view on Corenno Plinio and its castle, one of the most characteristic villages of Lake Como, that certainly deserves a visit. Corenno Plinio The itinerary, that descends toward the provincial 72, offers the possibility to observe little by little the spreading out of the characteristic buildings of Corenno Plinio, that represent one of the villages more genuine of the lake. The medieval imprint is imme- diately underlined in the rustic square in cobblestones, with the fountain, the statue of the soldiers killed in battle surrounded by plane trees and the high walls of the enclosed castle that overlooks the village.