Phulkari, The Journey of a Craft Revival Sunaina Suneja “Crafts make us feel rooted, give us a sense of the fields, sit on the heaps of golden grain, darn away belonging and connect us with our history”. This quota- with patient, clumsy fingers at the roll of ruddy cloth tion by American actor Phyllis George captures the upon their lap.” sentiments of women of the Indian state of Punjab vis- Let’s reflect on the word leisure. A woman of a vil- a-vis their personal Phulkari chaadars (also referred to as lage of Punjab today rises early and her morning chores shawl or dupatta). These chaadars also evoke memories include washing, feeding and milking the cattle; cooking of activities and conversations shared by women of the three meals, laundry, cleaning the house, and she then family. Even today phulkari continues to be used in mu- sits down—her leisure time—to embroider before her sic and poetry, as a metaphor for life and living, love and evening chores begin. yearning, and also wistful nostalgia for young married Unfortunately, very little is known about the prov- women of maternal homes left behind. enance of phulkari embroidery. For every story one Phulkari translates as flower-work, and it is the hears, there is an opposite one told as well. Did phulkari generic term for the folk embroidery form of Punjab come to Punjab as a “transfer of technology” through both in India and Pakistan. Its embroidery follows the invasions and settlers, or through travel and trade over warp and weft of its canvas, khaddar fabric; its yarn is the centuries? Or was it an indigenous textile art? handspun on spinning wheels and then handwoven. Perhaps it evolved from the weaving craft. Phulkari em- Before the Industrial Revolution the fabric was usu- broidery follows the warp and weft of the fabric, and its ally dyed in shades of brown, rust or red, the last two geometric medallion motifs are similar to those found considered auspicious in Punjab. Rare pieces were also in the carpets/kilims of Central Asia. People from this made on indigo-dyed blue or even dark green. Following region are known to have travelled extensively overland, the innovation of textile machinery during the Industrial Revolution and, with it, the import of cloth into India, new fabrics and colors were introduced into the gamut of phulkari chaadars. An often quoted and well documented article writ- ten in 1888 by F.A. Steele, a British woman resident in India, celebrates phulkari as an art form but also laments its decline due to commercialisation. She situtates the areas where the embroidery was most popularly done and also conjectures on its origins. A keen and empa- thetic observer of life and customs in rural India, she also observes that phulkari work was not just produced within families but outsourced as well. She writes: “While in Rohtak [now in the state of Haryana] at the present day the Jat woman works for herself, in Hazara and the neighboring district the fine work is all done to rich orders, and most big houses keep dependants con- stantly embroidering”. She continues her observation: “Here it is a work of leisure—the work of women, who, 1 Kite (patang) (The small portion embroidered in Indian pink: is it a after doing yeoman’s service with father or husband in nazar buti or did the embroiderer run out of yellow thread?) Textiles Asia MAY 2017, VOLUME 9, ISSUE 1 3 Other so-called imperfections were most certainly need-based, linked to financial circumstances or miscal- culation of thread required for the size of cloth on hand. Since the untwisted silk threads are said to have been purchased from traders who visited at regular intervals, new lots of hand dyed colors would have certainly var- ied from the original one. The embroiderer was possibly then compelled to use whatever color was available to complete the chaadar she was working on. We appreciate these imperfections in old folkloric pieces; they recall to our minds the imprint of the human hand, but today we demand perfection in the newly made. Each motif has to be of a specific size and 2 Peacocks (Mor phulkari). equal one to another; spacing between motifs must be regular; the fabric must not have weaving defects, and thread colors must be uniform. Phulkari is celebrated even today in poetry and song. It is often used to mark rites of passage, a meta- phor for the cycle of life. Associated with inner courtyard activities, the trinjan was exclusive to the women of the household, who gathered together to talk and laugh, share their stories and experiences as they spun on spinning wheels, churned butter, prepared meals, took care of children and embroidered. The phulkari repertoire includes the bagh (figure 4), sainchi (figure 7) and chope (figure 6) as well. The four are easily differentiated one from the other. The 3 Gold and silver (sohna chandi ). phulkari is not as densely embroidered as the bagh and its thread colors are usually orange, magenta, green silk threads and white cotton. The embroidery is done using the darn stitch, its length varying according to the em- broiderer’s skill. The base fabric is visible on a phulkari but not at all or barely on a bagh. Other names given to the phulkari are motif-centric (for example, genda phulkari for marigolds, patang phulkari for kites (figure 1), mor phulkari for peacocks (figure 2)). The bagh (garden) is usually embroidered in two colors of silk thread, usually yellow and white to repli- cate gold and silver (sohna chandi) (figure 3), but it has 6 Chope. variants which take their names from the number of colors used so pachrangi (five colors) (figures 4 and 5), crossing through northern India and, of course, through satrangi (seven colors), naurangi (9 colors). The vari da invasions, and settled here. bagh, so called as it is offered in a wedding ritual to the The embroiderer would sometimes embroider a bride by the groom’s family, and may include a differ- “nazar buti“, a motif or color different from the rest, ently embroidered triangular portion which covers the into the chaadar to ward off evil. Or was it a metaphor: bride’s head (ghunghat bagh) (front cover image). perfection lies only in the hands of the Almighty. People So fine and rich is its workmanship the bagh may who are familiar with carpet/kilim weaving note that the have been a visual symbol of prestige and indicative of “nazar buti” device continues to be used in Central Asia. the family’s affluence. Heavily embroidered, the fabric of 4 MAY 2017, VOLUME 9, ISSUE 1 Textiles Asia Above: 4 Five colored bagh (pachranga). Below: 5 Reverse of the five colored bagh. Textiles Asia MAY 2017, VOLUME 9, ISSUE 1 5 a bagh is barely visible. ate new ones: The medallion can be divided into four The embroidery stitch of the chope (figure 6) is parts, and when they are used separately or combined, different from the darn stitch but is included within the a new motif emerges (figures 8, 9,10 and 11). ambit of phulkari. Chope was also used traditionally by We are told that at the birth of a girl child her grand- the bride as a part of wedding rituals; its two ends are mother and mother would joyously start working either usually not bordered with embroidery, thus signifying individually or jointly on a phulkari to be offered to her the blessing of longevity. on her wedding day. Each stitch would bear the hopes, In sainchi, the pictorial chaadar (figure 7), the same dreams and blessings of the embroiderer for the child. motifs recur very often from one chaadar to another. This narrative is similar to other handworked textiles For example, the train with its passengers included, a where decorative pieces were made for ceremonies woman spinning on a spinning wheel or churning butter, marking the rites of passage and special usage. Hand- wrestlers, well known characters from Hindu mythology work has always been invested with social and cultural and even The Foreigner, identified by his or her dress, significance. The skill may have gone unremarked, appear on some. These are fascinating insights into the women’s work after all, but the finished product itself world view of the embroiderers and are not symbolic as was highly cherished. is sometimes suggested. Instead they are representa- Traditionally phulkari embroidery was done without tive of day to day life. The sainchi itself seems to be tracing or printing on the fabric. Nor were frames used based on the sanjhi that women make on the walls of to avoid the fabric from puckering. Probably these tools, their homes during the Navratra period, the nine days used commonly today, did not then exist. Also, using and nights dedicated to the Mother Goddess. the darn stitch, picking up one thread at a time, the The medallion-motifs of the phulkari /bagh appear motifs were embroidered from the reverse side of the to be the most basic to this style of embroidery and oth- fabric. ers may have been added later. In conversations with Punjabi women a picture The embroiderer plays with this basic motif to cre- seems to be emerging. Upper middle class Hindu 7 Sainchi. 6 MAY 2017, VOLUME 9, ISSUE 1 Textiles Asia 8 The full medallion motif. women as young girls were taught embroidery but these were European embroidery stitches, probably considered to be more sophisticated at the time as a result of colonial rule. And so these upper middle class Hindu women outsourced phulkari work, perhaps to Muslim women who were usually more skilled in fine workmanship.