KENT ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY eARTICLE The Pilgrims’ Way Revisited: The use of the North Downs main trackway and the Medway crossings by medieval travellers Derek Bright © 2010 Derek Bright Licensed for personal &/or academic use 1 Introduction Popular notions that the trackway that skirts the southern edge of the North Downs once served as the principal thoroughfare for pilgrims travelling to Becket’s shrine at Canterbury are commonplace. However, by the latter half of the last century, the predominant view amongst those with more than a passing interest in the North Downs trackways, was that whilst there was evidence to suggest that much of the Pilgrims’ Way follows the course of an ancient prehistoric trackway, it was far less evident that it had been used as a route of medieval pilgrimage. A reassessment of how we view the usage of the North Downs trackways and in particular a re- examination of the possibility of their use by medieval travellers enroute to Canterbury or the Channel coast, may help us reappraise the Victorian and Edwardian antiquarians. In doing so, it may allow us to place the work of pilgrimist writers such as Albert Way, Julia Cartwright and Hilaire Belloc in a more realistic context. Part I deals with options facing medieval travellers in relation to crossing the River Medway. The river valley known as the Medway gap is significant because it serves as a focus for revisiting a number of arguments regarding the convergence of routes from London and the west of the country; the options such routes presented for medieval travellers and their likely responses to these options. In reassessing the use of the North Downs trackways by medieval travellers, reference is made to more recent research undertaken by Patrick Thornhill regarding the Medway’s geological features in relation to the changing characteristics of the Medway crossings over time.1 In addition the article also takes a number of additional factors into consideration. These include a re-examination of the arguments purporting difficulties of travel using the North Downs trackways east of the Medway and takes into consideration (i) the risk of highway crime and (ii) the difficulties associated with the right to travel and (iii) suspicion of those that travelled in feudal society. Finally the article provides a re-examination of the actual distances involved. The combination of these factors is shown to be a key determinant as to why medieval travellers may have favoured one route rather than another. It is this decision as to which route medieval travellers would choose that the author has termed ‘the Paddlesworth choice’. Part II of this article argues that an assessment needs to be made of the actual numbers of the population eligible to undertake an extended pilgrimage in the Middle Ages. By working backwards from Ben Nilson’s and Frank Elliston-Erwood’s work regarding offerings at Beckett’s shrine combined with working forward from Domesday statistics, taking account of geographic location and social class, a much more realistic estimate of the numbers of medieval travellers that may have chosen to use the North Downs trackways can be arrived at. 1 Thornhill Patrick, ‘The Medway Crossings of the Pilgrims Way’; Archaeologia Cantiana , 89, 1974. 2 Part I - The Paddlesworth Choice It is generally accepted, as both Ivan Margary and Oliver Rackham do, that prehistoric travellers journeyed along the North Downs trackways and that it was an important main trackway.2 Without recourse to maps, way-markers or modern navigation aids, early travellers could follow these trackways along the chalk escarpment on the southern edge of the North Downs. Such paths may have originally been the preserve of wild animals and later followed by ancient man as he hunted in their tracks.3 Today’s walker can follow the North Downs Way and anyone who has walked the National Trail will know from experience that at the start of each morning one can survey the day’s journey that lies ahead, simply by observing the span of the North Down’s ridge stretched out before one. Ancient trackways such as these followed the chalk ridges or ran along the sides and tops of valleys. According to Valerie Belsey, such tracks probably made up the five principal prehistoric routes across England believed to date from before 2000 BC. These are: (i) the Harroway; (ii) the Ridgeway; (iii) the Icknield Way (iv) the South Downs Ridgeway and (v) the North Downs Ridgeway.4 These routes evolved, not only because their geological qualities offered good drainage; firm ground underfoot and relative ease of passage, but also for the very reason that due to their natural and recognisable characteristics they served as obvious navigation aids. To the south of the chalk escarpment another geographical feature influenced the route taken by early travellers. Here was to be found the vast expanse of the Weald or forest of Kent and Sussex that lay to the south of the North Downs chalk escarpment. For the prehistoric traveller the Weald presented itself as an unknown wilderness. This huge tract of wilderness and woodland followed the southern flank of the North Downs for 90 miles between Lympne in the east of Kent through to Petersfield in east Hampshire. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle recorded that this wood was known as Andredesleag and it continued to be known as Andredsweald up until 1018.5 The stated size of the Saxon Weald was 120 miles long and 30 miles broad, which according to Peter Brandon would have ‘extended it westwards across Hampshire into the New Forest’.6 Until recently the prevailing view had been that the Andredsweald was a fairly impenetrable forest. Mark Anthony Lower informed his readers in 1870 that Bede described ‘the whole of Anderida as all but inaccessible, and the resort of large herds of deer, and of wolves and wild boar’,7 but current research suggests that the Wealden area was more similar to ‘wood pasture than a solid block of impenetrable woodland’.8 Nevertheless, the Weald still presented numerous difficulties for the early traveller, which undoubtedly made the geographic and geological features of the chalk scarp an obvious choice of passage for those travelling across southern England from or to the west. There are four breaches in the North Downs’ escarpment, each the product of river erosion that formed the valleys of the Wey, Mole, Medway and the Stour as they cut paths through the soft chalk downland. It is the breach in the downs carved by the river Medway, known as the Medway gap, which presents the largest natural obstacle for any traveller following the trackways running along the chalk scarp between the Surrey Hills and Folkestone. The description of the North Downs trackways in the plural is deliberate. As Rackham informs us, travellers using such ridgeways could choose between the upper or lower ‘ways’, depending upon the weather and the season. For this reason these routes along the chalk scarps evolved as both ridge ways and terrace ways, often running in parallel. The Trottiscliffe to Snodland stretch of the Pilgrims’ Way, offers both extensive sections of ridge way and terrace way. This stretch passes very close to the ancient Neolithic megaliths known as the Coldrum Stones, which lie about 200 metres to the south of the trackway, just after the village of Trottiscliffe. From here the Pilgrims’ Way starts its approach towards 2 Margary Ivan – see ‘The North Downs Main Trackway and the Pilgrims’ Way’, Archaeological Journal volume CIX; p.40 and Rackham – see The Illustrated History of the Countryside; first published 1994, this ed’ Phoenix 1997. 3 Belsey Valerie, The Green Lanes of England, Green Books Ltd, 1998, p.30. Belsey suggests that the Pilgrims Way and the Icknield Way date back to the time when man the hunter first followed the tracks of wild animals. 4 Ibid, p.32. 5 Brandon Peter, The Kent and Sussex Weald, Phillimore 2003; p.43-43. 6 Ibid, p.44. 7 Lower Mark Anthony, History of Sussex Vol 1, London John Russell Mith, 1870, p.22. 8 Bannister Nicola Dr, The Cultural Heritage of woodlands in the South East, South East AONB’s Woodlands Programme, October 2007, p.7 3 the Medway valley, and begins a gradual curve in a north easterly arc following the west bank of the Medway Gap towards Rochester. The approach into the River Medway is described by Hillaire Belloc in The Old Road and is an excellent way to explore the Medway Gap on foot and check out Belloc’s favoured river crossing at Snodland.9 The first mile due east from the Trosley Country Park car-park follows the upper ridge path, which is marked in gothic typeface as the course of a trackway on current OS Explorer Ordnance Survey maps. After a mile, take a turning right and descend down to the lower terrace way via a hollow-way, eventually emerging at the field line just above the Coldrum Stones. Continue due east along the terrace way at the foot of the escarpment for a further two miles before leaving this lower trackway and turning right across a field following a farm track, towards Paddlesworth Farm. The track leading from the Pilgrims’ Way to Paddlesworth farm is shown on an 1845 tithe map of Paddlesworth as running between Hackett’s & Upper Danvil Field and North Field to Paddlesworth Farm. A survey commissioned by Thomas Wotton of his land in 1559 refers to this connecting trackway as the ’Kings Highway’.10 A further point to note is that Rev. C. H. Fielding in his Memories of Malling and its Valley (1893) includes a map that appears to have been drawn by A F Bowker, CE.; F.R.G.S.11 This map is noteworthy because it shows the Paddlesworth Road as directly following the course of the Kings Highway to join the Pilgrims’ Way rather than continuing west of Paddlesworth farm to the junction with the Stangate Road and Birling Hill as it does today.