Contents PAGE Introduction 6 Overview map of 4X4 routes 8 Chapter 1 – Crossing the Cederberg – Tankwa to Sandveld 10 CERES ◗ KAGGA KAMMA ◗ OLD POSTAL ROUTE ◗ BIEDOUW VALLEY ◗ WUPPERTAL ◗ KROMRIVIER ◗ BOEGOEBERG ◗ LAMBERT’S BAY ◗ JAKKALSKLOOF TRAIL ◗ KLEINTAFELBERG ◗ PIKETBERG Chapter 2 – The West Coast – !Kwha ttu to Hondeklipbaai and beyond 22 PATERNOSTER ◗ LAMBERT’S BAY ◗ BEACH CAMP ◗ BUFFELSRIVIER TRAIL Chapter 3 – The Richtersveld – a place of great splendour 34 STEINKOPF ◗ SENDELINGSDRIF ◗ DE HOOP ◗ RICHTERSBERG ◗ KOKERBOOMKLOOF ◗ EKSTEENFONTEIN ◗ VIOOLSDRIF Chapter 4 – Khaudum and Mamili – explore the remote parks of the Caprivi Strip 44 GROOTFONTEIN ◗ TSUMKWE ◗ NYAE NYAE PLAINS ◗ SIKERETI ◗ KHAUDUM ◗ NGEPI ◗ MUDUMU AND MAMILI ◗ KONGOLA OR KATIMA MULILO Chapter 5 – The Kaokoland – an inhospitable wonderland 54 KAMANJAB ◗ OPUWO ◗ KUNENE RIVER LODGE ◗ ENYANDI ◗ EPUPA ◗ VAN ZYL’S PASS ◗ OTJINHUNGWA ◗ MARBLE MINE ◗ PURROS ◗ HOANIB RIVER ◗ WARMQUELLE Chapter 6 – The Namaqua Eco-Trail – an Orange River odyssey 64 POFADDER ◗ PELLA ◗ GAUDOM ◗ KAMGAB ◗ VIOOLSDRIF ◗ XAIMANIP MOUTH ◗ TIERHOEK ◗ HOLGAT RIVER ◗ ALEXANDER BAY Chapter 7 – Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – the place of great thirst 74 UPINGTON ◗ TWEE RIVIEREN ◗ NOSSOB ◗ MABUASEHUBE ◗ KURUMAN Chapter 8 – Central Kalahari Game Reserve – a true African wilderness 84 KHAMA RHINO SANCTUARY ◗ DECEPTION VALLEY ◗ PIPER’S PAN ◗ BAPE CAMP ◗ KHUTSE Chapter 9 – Faces of the Namib – the world’s oldest desert 94 SOLITAIRE ◗ HOMEB ◗ KUISEB RIVER CANYON ◗ CONCEPTION BAY ◗ MEOB BAY ◗ OLIFANTSBAD ◗ LANGEWAND ◗ WALVIS BAY Chapter 10 – Tanzania Wildebeest Migration 104 CASA LISA ◗ VILANCULOS ◗ CASA MSIKA ◗ CAHORA BASSA ◗ LILONGWE ◗ CHITIMBA ◗ IRINGA ◗ DAR ES SALAAM ◗ ZANZIBAR ◗ ARUSHA ◗ KARATU ◗ NGORONGORO CRATER ◗ SERONERA ◗ MARA RIVER ◗ KOROGWE ◗ BAOBAB VALLEY ◗ MBEYA ◗ KAPISHYA HOT SPRINGS ◗ LUSAKA ◗ LIVINGSTONE ◗ KASANE ◗ CHOBE Chapter 11 – Northeastern Botswana – a drive on the wild side 116 MAUN ◗ MOREMI ◗ DIZHANA OR MANKWE ◗ KHWAI RIVER ◗ SAVUTI ◗ IHAHA ◗ KASANE ◗ HUNTERS ROAD ◗ ELEPHANT SANDS ◗ BAINES’ BAOBABS Chapter 12 – Angola – scenic inland and coastal splendours 126 CALUEQUE BORDER ◗ CAHAMA ◗ HUMPATA ◗ CATATA NOVA ◗ UACO CUNGO ◗ PEDRAS NEGRAS ◗ LUANDA ◗ SUMBE ◗ LOBITO ◗ PRAIA DE BINGA ◗ BAIA DAS PIPAS ◗ FLAMINGO LODGE ◗ LAKE ARCO ◗ RUACANA Chapter 13 – Liuwa Plains, Western Zambia 136 KWANOKENG ◗ NATA ◗ KASANE ◗ CHOBE ◗ KABULA TIGER LODGE ◗ BAROTSE FLOOD PLAINS ◗ LIUWA ◗ SENANGA Chapter 14 – Zimbabwe – a journey of the unexpected 146 MABALAUTA ◗ HLARO CAMP ◗ CHILOJO CLIFFS ◗ TROUTBECK INN ◗ HARARE ◗ CHINHOYI ◗ MANA POOLS ◗ KARIBA ◗ MATUSADONA ◗ SINAMATELLA ◗ MANDAVU DAM ◗ HWANGE MAIN CAMP Chapter 15 – Southern Mozambique – tropical paradise on Africa’s eastern coast 158 MAPUTO ◗ INHAMBANE ◗ TOFO ◗ PAINDANE REEFS ◗ MAXIXE ◗ PONTA MALONGANE ◗ PONTA DO OURO ◗ KOSI BAY Chapter 16 – Transkei Wild Coast 168 MORGANS BAY ◗ CEBE ◗ DWESA ◗ ANCHORAGE HOTEL ◗ PORT ST JOHNS ◗ MBOTYI Chapter 17 – Great Limpopo – Soutpansberg and mythical Venda lore 178 LOUIS TRICHARDT (MAKHADO) ◗ BUZZARD MOUNTAIN RETREAT ◗ CAMP MANGWELA ◗ TSHIROVHA ◗ NWANEDI ◗ TSHIPISE HOT SPRING RESORT Chapter 18 – Tracing the Molopo River – one of Africa’s ancient rivers 188 UPINGTON ◗ VAN ZYLSRUS ◗ LOCH MAREE ◗ KAKAMAS ◗ RIEMVASMAAK ◗ AUGRABIES ◗ DABERAS Chapter 19 – The Old Ox-wagon Route – a pioneering experience in the Southern Cape 198 HARKERVILLE ◗ BURCHELL’S TRAIL ◗ LOUVAIN ◗ ATTAQUASKLOOF ◗ BONNIEDALE ◗ HEIDELBERG Chapter 20 – Lesotho – Kwahlamba, the barrier of spears 208 HIMEVILLE ◗ SANI PASS ◗ MOKHOTLONG ◗ LOST VALLEY OF KHUBELU ◗ JAMES PASS ◗ CRUSADER CAMP ◗ KATSE DAM ◗ LEJONE CAMP ◗ ‘CAMP RUNNING WATER’ ◗ MOTENG PASS ◗ CALEDONSPOORT Packing list 218 Responsible behaviour and off-road etiquette 220 Author information 222 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park 7 – the place of great thirst by Simon Steadman TOPTOP 10 ATTRACTIONSATTRACTIONS OF THIS TRIP Exploring the first formally declared transfrontier park in Africa Wide open spaces The red sand dunes The magnificent black-maned Kalahari lion Endless photographic opportunities Camping in the wild Spectacular thunderstorms in summer months Watching the nightlife around the water hole from the hide at Nossob Camp Sitting around the camp fire listening to the sounds of the wild Star-filled Kalahari skies TRIP OUTLINE We will start our adventure in Upington where we will meet at our guesthouse, stock up with last-minute supplies and fill our fuel tanks to the brim. From there we head north to Twee Rivieren, the southernmost entrance to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. There we will need to complete our border formalities for our visit to the Botswana side of the park later on. We continue north through the park to Nossob Camp, situated in an area of the park renowned for its predator population. From Nossob we head east into the Botswana side of the park and to the Mabuasehube region, exiting the park at Mabuasehube and re- entering South Africa via the McCarthy’s Rest border post before heading home via Kuruman. SEE DETAILED MAP ON PAGE 76 APPEAL RATING The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is a great place to experience the vast diversity of the Kalahari. From the red sand dunes, sun-scorched pans and dry river beds to the incredible bird life and wildlife, this __5 5 unique park will provide you with a memorable Kalahari experience. THE BEST TIME TO TRAVEL HERE ◗ December to April are the best months ◗ The rainy season is a great time to visit the Kalahari as this is when the landscape comes to life, offering spectacular scenery ◗ Thunderstorms are frequent but brief ◗ The sandy tracks become compacted after rain, making them easier to drive on ◗ There are no natural water sources in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, so in the winter months the animals are forced to use the artificial water holes, making for excellent game-viewing FAMILY-FRIENDLY RATING ◗ The game-viewing on the South African side of the park is more abundant than on the Botswana side, but in Botswana there’s still enough game to keep the children interested __3 5 ◗ The trip from Nossob to Mabuasehube is a long day’s drive that may test the patience of younger children, but stopping frequently and enjoying the surroundings will make it easier ◗ As the camp sites are unfenced on the Botswana side of the park, it is always essential to keep a close eye on younger children and not let them stray from the fireside after dark SELF-SUFFICIENCY RATING Travellers need to be fairly self-sufficient on this trip and ensure that they carry ample supplies of fuel and water, especially for the 4 Botswana side of the park as there are no facilities here. __ 5 ◗ Fuel is available at Twee Rivieren, Mata Mata and Nossob camps but the supply can be a bit unreliable at times, especially during the busier periods such as school holidays ◗ The next fuel stop after Nossob is at Tshabong in Botswana, which is approximately 135km from the camp site in Mabuasehube ◗ There are clean ablution facilities at the camp sites on the South African side, with hot showers and flushing toilets ◗ The camps on the South African side have small shops that sell basic supplies ◗ Fresh bread is available to order at Nossob Camp – it is highly recommended ◗ The ablution facilities in Mabuasehube are basic, with only long-drop toilets and a cold shower ◗ The water is very brackish and is not recommended for drinking, so take enough drinking water along with you 5-7 Mabuasehube Camp N Mabuasehube Pan Mpaathutiwa Pan Monamodi Pan NE Gemsbok NP NW Entrance Gate SEE INSET A W E BOTSWANA SE SW Bosobogolo Pan S o 0 40 km Motopi Camp Molop 3 & 4 Mabuasehube GR 0 20 miles Marie se Gat Water Hole Nossob Rest Camp Bray Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Kalahari Gemsbok NP Kaspersdraai Water Hole R378 Mata Mata Camp Bitterpan Camp o Dikbaardskolk Picnic Area Molop R375 A Molopo NR uob Phepane R375 Jan se Draai Water Hole 4X4 route Setlagole Urikaruus Camp INSET A Bape Camp Overnight stay Melkvlei Picnic Area 3 Overnight number Kielie Krankie McCarthy’s Rest 5-7 Madibeng Camp GPS co-ordinate Mabuasehube Camp Lesholoago Pan Khudunkw See full key on page 9 R377 ossob Springbokpan Guest Farm N e 2 MabuasehubeLemapo Pan Mpaathutiwa Pan N18 Twee Rivieren Camp Monamodi Pan Entrance Gate Kgokgole Khiding Pan Molopo Entrance Gate Middelputs Rietfontein R380 Kuruman Leeuspruit Hakskeen Pan MabuasehubeM GR Gemsbok oshaweng R378 N14 Bosobogolo Pan Wildeals Losase Kuruman M atlhwaring Takoon Battlefield 1823 Korobela Uitsak Pan Salt Works R360 Molopo Moffat N18 1230m R31 Mission Station N14 8 Dro R371 Kalahari Raptor Guesthouse ë-Harts Salt Works Rehabilitation Centre Eye of Kuruman R372 The Taung Skull Salt Works SOUTH AFRICA War Graves 1897 Gakarosa Klein-Boetsa 1855m Ga-Mogar p a War Graves 1822 Wonderwerk Cave R31 Bak R370 N12 Nakop R385 Steenbok R360 prui R31 ters t MAP 7 KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PaRK – the place of great thirst PaRK MAP 7 KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER a w N14 en N10 ro 1 G N12 R385 Harts Rock Paintings Klein-Riet Guesthouse R374 Orange Leeu Augrabies Falls NP R385 Witsand NR 76 Or Rebellion Tree N10 Vaalbos NR ang R359 Witsandkop 76 4X4Augr abiesROUTES Falls THROUGHe SOUTHERN AFRICA 1282m KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK – THE PLACE OF GREAT THIRST 5-7 Mabuasehube Camp N Mabuasehube Pan Mpaathutiwa Pan Monamodi Pan NE Gemsbok NP NW Entrance Gate SEE INSET A W E BOTSWANA SE SW Bosobogolo Pan S o 0 40 km Motopi Camp Molop 3 & 4 Mabuasehube GR 0 20 miles Marie se Gat Water Hole Nossob Rest Camp Bray Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park Kalahari Gemsbok NP Kaspersdraai