CONTENTS Acknowledgments viii AGAINST FASHION: THE AVANT-GARDE AND CLOTHING Fashion and Modernity 2 Romanticism: From Eccentricity to Artistic Dress 4 Rational, Artistic, and Aesthetic Dress in England 5 Henry van de Velde and Germany 11 Klimt and the Wiener Werkstatte 23 Futurism and Dress 29 The Russian Avant-Garde and Dress 45 SoniaDelaunay 63 Notes 69 TEXTS Elizabeth Cady Stanton The New Dress 80 Amelia Bloomer Dress Reform 82 E. W. Godwin A Lecture on Dress (1868) 83 George H. Darwin Development in Dress 96 Walter Crane Of the Progress of Taste in Dress in Relation to Art Education 105 Oscar Wilde Slaves of Fashion 111 Oscar Wilde Woman's Dress 113 Oscar Wilde More Radical Ideas upon Dress Reform 115 Oscar Wilde The Relation of Dress to Art: A Note in Black and White on Mr Whistler's Lecture 120 Josef Hoffmann The Individual Dress 122 Henry van de Velde The Artistic Improvement of Women's Clothing 125 Henry van de Velde A New Art Principle in Modern Women's Clothing 137 Friedrich Deneken Artistic Dress and Personalized Dress 143 Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill On the Becoming of Fashion 148 Lilly Reich Questions of Fashion 151 Giacomo Balla Male Futurist Dress: A Manifesto 155 Giacomo Balla The Antineutral Dress: A Manifesto 157 Volt (Vincenzo Fani) Futurist Manifesto of Women's Fashion 160 F. T. Marinetti, Francesco Monarchi, Enrico Frampolini, and Mino Somenzi The Futurist Manifesto of the Italian Hat 162 Ernesto Thayaht The Aesthetics of Dress: Sunny Fashion, Futurist Fashion 164 Ernesto Thayaht and Ruggero Michahelles Manifesto for the Transformation of Male Clothing 167 Renato di Bosso and Ignazio Scurto The Futurist Manifesto of the Italian Tie 170 Varst (Varvara Stepanova) Present-Day Dress—Production Clothing 172 Nadezhda Lamanova Concerning Contemporary Dress 174 Nadezhda Lamanova The Russian Fashion 177 Aleksandra Exter The Constructivist Dress 178 Guillaume Apollinaire The Fortnight Review: The Reformers of Dress 181 Blaise Cendrars On Her Dress She Has a Body 182 Sonia Delaunay The Influence of Painting on Fashion 183 Sonia Delaunay Artists and the Future of Fashion 186 Illustration Credits 189 Selected Bibliography 198 Index 202.