05 539477 Pt05.pag 10/8/03 8:24 PM Page 253 Part Five Miami-Dade County The Capital of the Caribbean This is The Magic City of the Moment: Broad sands and fire-lit sand- castles along the moon-lit Atlantic; palm-fringed, neon-lit bridges and the eye-popping skyline across Biscayne Bay; Art Deco hotels shimmer- ing in the sun and sidewalks jammed with slender Europeans, buff mod- els, and Lycra-clad rollerbladers; symphonies performed on Lincoln Road; DJs and long-haired, long-legged Latinas clubbing till daybreak; towering cruise ships gliding by Spanish-styled mansions. That’s Miami. Ditto cocaine, Al Capone, Miami Vice and CSI-Miami. This legendary city wears its reputation for beauty and illegal pleasure like a jasmine perfume. A sub-tropical haven of the Americas, Greater Miami is nevertheless a city of two million, with all the modern-day menaces that entails. Yet, Miami, where more people speak Spanish than English, epitomizes the American spirit for the many, from retirees to immigrants, who have made new homes in this youthful city. From the moment they deplane at Miami International Airport, trav- elers are confronted with a Babel of languages, the pungent odors of cigars and café Cubano. For many Americans, Miami appears to be an international destination that doesn’t require a passport. The Miami melting pot can seem a discordant clash of cultures, best ignored in the rush to familiarity at the beach, a convention hall, or in suburban communities up the coast. But Miami is a city of new build- ings, new ideas, and a worldwide ethnic mix that works, gloriously. It offers—now—the chance to luxuriate in a warm, vibrant, and gregarious culture of the Americas, where news from Havana, Caracas—or Paris— can overshadow the latest scandal in Washington. In this section, we offer suggestions that reveal the essence of this sen- sual, seductive, young city that’s growing up to be a beauty. We give you explicit directions on how to visit Little Havana; where to sample the 253 05 539477Pt05.pag10/8/038:24PMPage254 254 To 11 Miami Area 9 Biscayne Canal NORTH MIAMI NE 6thAve. Haulover BEACH Beach ATTRACTIONS Opa-Locka Park 1 The Barnacle State Historic Site Airfield 5 2 Historical Museum of Southern NW 135th St. NE 135th St. BAL Florida NE HARBOUR Amelia NE 125th St. NE A1A 3 123rd St. Broad Lowe Art Museum Earhart 125th St. 4 Miami Art Museum Park 924 Gratigny Dr. NE 119th St. Causeway 16 Red Rd. 1 5 Gratigny Dr. MoCA: Museum of Biscayne Park 13 SURFSIDE Contemporary Art Opa-Locka Canal 15 6 Parrot Jungle Island NE 103rd St. NW 103rd St. 7 Sequarium Bal NW 95th St. Harbour 8 Vizcaya Museum and Garden HIALEAH Beach NW 27thAve. Biscayne Blvd. Collins Ave. Ave. Collins Collins NW 22nd Ave. W E 8thAve. Amtrak RESTAURANTS 29th St. Terminal 41st St. 85th St. W 4thAve. NW 79th St. NE 79th St. J.F. Kennedy 9 To Biscayne Blvd. Palm Ave. Bice NW 17thAve. Beach 10 E 4thAve. E 25th St. Causeway Casa Juancho LITTLE North MiamiAve. Pelican 11 Chef Allen’s HAITI Island NE 2ndAve. 12 Rd. Havana Harry’s E 9th St. Dr. M. L. King Blvd. NW 62nd St. 13 Il Tulipano Centodieci NW 7thAve. 14 Okeechobee Rd. Hialeah Dr. NW 54th St. Morningside La Bussola Park Alton 15 La Paloma 16 Miami Palm Restaurant Expressway 112 17 Airport 27 Julia Tuttle Causeway Morton’s of Chicago 27 195 A1A NW 36th St. 18 Norman’s Miami 19 International MIAMI Ortanique on the Mile Airport NW 20th St. 20 BEACH Pascal’s on Ponce 9 Venetian Causeway MacArthur Brickell Ave. Brickell Alton South MiamiAve. Rd. Causeway Port of Miami Fisher Island Brickell Ave. Rickenbacker Causeway Virginia Key Crandon Park Beach Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park Haulover Beach Park NW 135th St. BAL HARBOUR Amelia Earhart Broad Park Causeway SURFSIDE Bal Harbour Beach Collins Ave. Collins E 8thAve. Amtrak Terminal NE 79th St. J.F. Kennedy 85th St. NW 17thAve. Beach North MiamiAve. Pelican Island NE 2ndAve. Morningside Park Airport Expressway Julia Tuttle Causeway NW 36th St. 05 539477Pt05.pag10/8/038:24PMPage255 Venetian Causeway SW 17thAve. 836 836 12th Ave. SW 395 MacArthur SOUTH Brickell Ave. Brickell Brickell Ave. Brickell 6 BEACH Alton Alton NW 7th St. South MiamiAve. Rd. SW 42Ave. 95 NIGHTCLUBS Causeway West Flagler St. 3 4 Collins Ave. 21 Lummus Park Hoy Como Ayer SW 1st St. 5th St. SW 57thAve. SW 27thAve. A1A Beach 22 Tobacco Road Port of Blvd. 41 22 Tamiami Beachcom SW 7th St. Miami 41 Le Jeune Rd. 10 21 SW 37thAve. Trail Ponce de Leon Blvd. Leon de Ponce SW 8th St. CORAL Fisher 14 DOWNTOWN 17 GABLES 1 Island Miracle SW 22nd St. Brickell Ave. 19 Rickenbacker Coral Way 20 18Mile 8 Causeway US 1 S. Dixie Hwy. Virginia Key Bird Rd. (SW 40th St.) Bird Ave. S. Bayshore Dr. Red Rd. 12 9 7 Douglas Rd. COCONUT 2 GROVE 1 Ponce de Leon Blvd. Hardee Ave. BiscayneBay SW 72nd Ave. (Sunset Rd.) Crandon Park Beach ATLANTIC OCEAN KEY BISCAYNE C r a n d Bill Baggs o n Cape Florida B l State Park v d . 255 05 539477 Pt05.pag 10/8/03 8:24 PM Page 256 6 16 18 To Central Miami Beach To Central Miami Beach 23rd St. The Bass Museum Collins 22nd St. of Art Park 21st St. 20th St. Dade Blvd.1 Miami Beach Convention 19th St. 20 Purdy Ave. Center James Ave. James Ave. 18th St. 7 Jackie Gleason Theater Venetian of Performing Arts Causeway 17th St. Lincoln Road Mall Alton Rd.Alton Rd. Lenox Ave. 11 4 Belle Lincoln Rd. WashingtonCollins Ave. Ave. West Ave. Island West Ave. 16th St. Bay Rd.Bay Rd. 15th17 St. Michigan Ave. Michigan Ave. Jefferson Ave. Jefferson Ave. Meridian Ave. Biscayne Meridian Ave. Ocean Dr. Bay Miami Beach 19 Post Office Miami Beach 13th St. 12th St. ATTRACTIONS 14 1 Holocaust Memorial of Miami 11th St. Washington Ave. Beach 3 Beach 22 Patrol Station 2 The Jewish Museum of Florida 10th St. 15 Pennsylvania Ave. 3 The Wolfsonian Pennsylvania Ave. 9 Art Deco 9th St. Welcome Center RESTAURANTS Lummus 4 Blue Door at Delano 8th St. Park 5 China Grill 6 The Forge/Jimmy’z 7th St. 7 Joe Allen 8 Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant 6th St. 9 Metro Kitchen+Bar 10 5th St. WashingtonWashington Ave.Ave. Nemo 5 13 11 Pacific Time 4th St. 12 Smith & Wollensky 2 ATLANTIC 13 OCEAN Tuscan Steak 3rd St. 14 1220 at the Tides 2nd St. Collins Ave. NIGHTCLUBS 15 The Clevelander Bar 1st St. 10 21 16 Club Tropigala Ocean Dr. 17 Crobar Commerce St.8 12 18 Jimmy’z Biscayne St. 19 Mac’s Club Deuce 20 Mynt Ultra Lounge 21 Opium Garden South Pointe Government Cut 22 Twist Park 256 05 539477 Pt05.pag 10/8/03 8:24 PM Page 257 South Miami– Sunset Dr. South Miami–Dade County986 South Expwy. Dade County Palmetto S. Dixie Hwy.Miami N Kendall Dr. SW 88th St. 94 Old Cutler Rd. ATTRACTIONS 1 Kendall Biscayne National Park 821 990 973 SW. 57th Ave. 2 Matheson 2 874 Hammock Fairchild Tropical Garden Park 3 Gold Coast Railroad Museum 4 Metrozoo 6 1 5 Monkey Jungle Chapman Richmond 5 Field 6 Weeks Air Museum 3 Heights Park SW. 128th Ave. 4 SW. 152nd St. Coral ReefDr. Perrine Thompson State Pk. Eureka Dr. d R r e SW. 177th Ave. SW. 177th Ave. Quail Roost Dr. tl 994 u C 997 d 5 Ol Cutler Hainlin Dr. SW. 216th St. Y Ridge Goulds A B SW. 187th Ave. Dixie Hwy.989 E SW. 248th St. Coconut Palm Dr. N 1 Y Naranja Rd. 1 Princeton A Biscayne Naranja ike C 5 da Turnp ri National S lo I F Park Moody Dr. B Krome Ave. Homestead Farm Life Rd. Air Force Leisure Base City To Key Homestead Allapattah Ave West Tallahassee Rd. 257 05 539477 Pt05.pag 10/8/03 8:24 PM Page 258 258 Part Five Miami-Dade County best in Haitian and Caribbean cuisine; and where you can walk down streets and hear Spanish, Creole, Yiddish, Russian, and German spoken within a single block. We’ll introduce you to a vivid street life like that of no other city in North America. A Brief History Miami vibrates with an entrepreneurial spirit, and at a frenetic pace. The commercial spirit is embodied in everything from family-owned grocery stores to huge corporations and banks. This hard-charging business com- munity reflects the first Cuban refugees fleeing the Castro regime in the late 1950s—entrepreneurial and professional classes who often arrived penniless, but brought with them the skills and drive to become success- fully self-employed in their adopted country. Historically, the success of hardworking new immigrants fits a Miami pattern of boom and bust. After all, the city was founded only a century ago on a long-shot business gamble that paid off. Through the decades that followed, Miami’s history was a roller-coaster ride of dizzying suc- cesses and precipitous declines. While South Florida’s mild winters attracted visitors from the North during the mid and late 1800s, it took an idea from a woman from Cleveland named Julia Tuttle to create the city of Miami. After settling on the north bank of the Miami River in 1891, Tuttle began to plan her city—and worked to find a railroad magnate who would extend a line south to the tip of the Florida peninsula.