10/12/2009 1 TRIMS AND FINDINGS Chapter 8 2 Findings and Trims Findings: trims, labels, treads, elastics, underlying fabrics, zippers, buttons, other closures, other miscellaneous items Trims: subdivision of findings – decorative materials – ribbons, braids, laces, other narrow fabric trims, appliqués, flowers, beads, sequins, other decorative items Findings/trims usually aren’t the reason for purchase but they are often the reason for discarding a garment 3 Performance Finding/trim must reflect same quality level as the fabric Performance of finding or trim could negate the performance of the body fabric Ex. If fabric is dry-clean only, the trims must be dry-cleanable 4 Establishing specs Often established by the suppliers themselves or by the manufacturers in partnership w/ the suppliers Too many types of findings and trims to be an expert on all and be able to write accurate specs on all – best to rely on the supplier of the specific type of finding you need 5 Aesthetic performance Must complement the appearance of the garment Must be considered in concert with the design, construction, and finish of the garment Need to be attractive, fashionable, and functional to help sell the garment 6 Functional Performance Includes utility and durability of the finding Utility includes: dimensional stability, appearance retention, comfort, ease of care, and safety Durability includes: strength, abrasion resistance, and degradation by chemical & other elements 7 Performance, Cont. Design, materials, and constructions of a garment interact to determine utility and durability Findings and trim need to be comfortable, not bulky or irritating to the skin, and positioned so the garment fits as intended Must be compatible with the garment body fabric in terms of wear and tear Sometimes the application of the finding is more likely to fail than the item itself (buttons falling off) 8 Dimensional stability Shrinkage and elongation/elasticity or the main dimensional concerns for findings and trim Skew and torque aren’t much of a concern Must shrink approximately same amount as rest of garment Same w/ elasticity unless only used in small amounts 9 Appearance retention Must retain desired appearance for the garment Needs to age consistently with the body fabric Can be a problem w/ mixed fibers 10 Abrasion resistance More of a concern for appearance than durability w/ trims and findings Many findings are less flexible than body fabric and therefore more susceptible to abrasion 11 Colorfastness Trims and findings must retain their color, not fade, crock, bleed or yellow to maintain overall appearance 12 Heat resistance Must take care when thermoplastic findings are combined with natural fiber body fabrics 1 10/12/2009 Can affect overall care proceedures 13 Comfort Hand of findings is very important As is the size and shape of findings – such as with buttons 14 Ease of care Findings should have the same launderability or dry-clean-ability as the body fabric 15 Safety Flame resistance Sharpness or choking hazards Ability to reflect light 16 Strength Strength needs to be specified amount of strength proportional to the end use of the garment 17 Resistance to Degradation Must withstand degradation from the environment Chemical resistance Launderability and dry-cleanability Light resistance Fume fading resistance 18 Physical Features Include its base raw material Its structure How it’s dyed, printed, and/or finished Size, placement, attachment, reinforcement Cost limitations and lead times are factors in choice Cost does not directly predict the quality of a finding, but is often related Method of application must be considered Many items purchased by the gross 19 Labels Different types: Printed: preprinted and self-printed Woven Different shapes, different materials Paper labels Attachment methods, durability of materials, and comfort are important factors 20 Thread Used for sewing the garment as well as for decorative topstitching and for embroidery Often least costly Thread failure can cause failure of entire garment Strength, durability, appearance, and texture important 21 Thread strength Critical to durability of stitches and seams Breakage slows down production Single end strength – strength required to break the thread Loop strength – force necessary to separate two stitches Some need to resist stretching, some need to stretch a little Some require coarse, multiple threads, some need fine threads Some need abrasion resistant threads 22 Fiber content of thread Polyester & nylon: stronger and more resistant to wet processing chemicals Cotton: weaker & less resistant to chemicals, but excellent sewing characteristics Mercerized cotton: stronger than soft, unfinished cotton 2 10/12/2009 Rayon: weak, but shiny and dyes well Silk: rare, costly, but beautiful 23 Thread types Spun vs. filament Spun: Staple fibers (natural except silk or synthetics and silk cut into staple fibers) Usually two to six single spun yarns are twisted together to make a spun thread Usually plain spun thread is not as comfortable as core-spun, but cheaper But are usually more comfortable than filament threads 24 Corespun Subcategory of spun threads Each ply consists of a spun core of polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers Usually requires several plies twisted together to make a thread Usually finer, stronger, softer, more elastic than plain spun More costly, so used on critical seams rather than all 25 Filament threads Made of filament fibers: silk or synthetics Multifilament vs. monofilament threads 26 Monofilaments Most common filament thread Made of a SINGLE filament – like a fishing line Often clear Used to avoid multiple color changes Very strong, can be too strong Can irritate the wearer’s skin Often only used in lower end garments and/or hems 27 Multifilament threads Consists of several filaments twisted together Makes a very strong thread High luster, low coverage, slick May be texturized (reduces luster, increases coverage and comfort) 28 Thread color Well-coordinated thread color is a mark of quality Hue, shade, luster should match or coordinate A shade darker is best Basic colors can be used in places that don’t show to save costs Should be colorfast 29 Thread size Uses the Tex system Higher numbers are heavier and lower numbers are lighter See appendix C in text 30 Trim Type and amount is often influenced by fashion trends Shouldn’t ravel, fall off, shrink, fade, bleed, or discolor Should be compatible with the wear and care requirements of the rest of the garment Complex trims generally cost more than simple ones and wide more than narrow 31 Ribbon Narrow, woven fabric used as a trim and to make ties and bows Includes: Grosgrain ribbon Satin ribbon 3 10/12/2009 Velvet ribbon Novelty ribbon Picot-edge ribbons or feather edge ribbons Ruching 32 Braid Formed by the intertwining of a set of yarns according to a definite pattern to form a narrow fabric Includes: Soutache Middy braid Loop braid Scrolling Gimp Rick-rack Foldover braid 33 Lace Trim Narrow lace fabric (as opposed to allover lace) Includes: Insertion: flat, 2 straight edges Galloon: flat, 2 scalloped edges Edging: flat OR gathered, one straight edge, one scalloped Beading lace: has holes to run ribbon through Medallion: individual lace motif (ex. Appliqué) 34 Other Narrow Fabric Trims Many have no name other than trim Some that do include: Piping Corded piping Bias tape Seam or hem tape Twill tape Fringe 35 Appliqués Decorative fabric patches applied to the garment Often die cut from fusible-back fabric Then ironed on and stitched 36 Nonfabric trims Include beads (seed, bugle, pearls), sequins (paillettes, spangles),, nailheads (flat), studs (raised), rivets, burrs, plastic & silk flowers, feathers, jewels Trim and application must match garment’s care methods 37 Closures The fasteners that secure garment openings Influenced by fashion Must take into account care methods , design and production needs 38 Buttons Often decorative as well as functional But can be hidden – strictly functional Or decorative – without function 39 Composition of buttons Least costly are molded plastic or stamped from sheet plastic (polyester or nylon) Natural materials (mother-of-pearl, shell, wood, metal, horn) typically cost more Self-covered buttons can be used to blend w/ garments 4 10/12/2009 Leather, wood, rhinestones can be damaged by certain cleaning proceedures 40 Button size Sized in lignes (lines) 40 lignes = 1 inch diameter, 30 ligne = ¾” Usually size chosen in proportion to the size of the garment Consider placement and customer when choosing size (kid’s buttons, buttons down center back…) Number of buttons depends on button size. Larger buttons are farther apart, smaller buttons, closer. 41 Button types Eyed or shanked Eyed: generally more casual, creates less lump Shanked: can be dressier, bulkier, cost more 42 Button loops Used sometimes in place of buttonholes Made of narrow tubes of bias fabric, cord, thread chains, or elastic Must have adequate size and elasticity to slip over button Frogs – highly decorative button & loop closure Toggle – decorative button & loop closure used on heavy fabrics 43 Zippers Fast & easy means of getting and out of garments More appropriate than buttons for FLAT areas within garments NOT suited for bloused areas due to stiffnes Usually preferred over buttons for fitted garments to prevent gapping More comfortable to lean against, great for BACK closures Buttons are more decorative and preferred for FRONT closures Zippers