Ride Big Big Bend Zone-tailedZone-taile The River Bend Ranch Ranch SPP Hawks at Big Bend Road Page 3 pullout map PagePage 10 Page 12 el SOPages 6 —LitarIo 7 TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT | SPRING/SUMMER 2010 | BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK By Linda Hedges Mere mention of the word “desert” typically conjures up images of dry sand, relentless sun and sweltering heat— Beauty in Bloom infernal wastelands that are brown and dry and crispy. But upon closer inspection, nothing could be further from the truth, particularly when desert plants erupt into flower. The Big Bend in bloom reminds us that desert life can survive—even thrive—under the harshest of harsh conditions. When beauty blooms in the desert, the human heart sings in reply. In most parts of Texas, spring marks the height of wildflower season. In the Big Bend region, however, the floral show typically reaches its pinnacle significantly later, during the hottest months of the year. On average, the most abundant flowering season is late summer, following the monsoonal rains of July and August. During this time Photo: Chase Fountain frame, flowering plants are virtually everywhere—shrubs, forbs and grasses alike. Desert “What a desolate place would be a world without a flower! It would be a face without a smile, a marigolds bask in the sun feast without a welcome. Are not flowers the stars of the earth, and are not our stars the beside mounds of purple feather flowers of the heaven?” - A. J. Balfour dalea as trumpet flowers herald the fecundity of the season. June, as well. You won’t be able to divert your eyes from the organisms that are attracted Succulents such as Torrey to miss the delicate fist-sized magnificent landscapes long to desert flowers—pollinating yucca, typically blooming in the prickly-pear flowers, their enough for an up-close and bees; nectaring hummingbirds, spring, may find enough energy lemon yellow hues painting a personal look at whatever butterflies and bats; even to flower once again. smile to the desert’s face. Or plants are in flower at the time. foraging mammals. Remember: the orchid-like flowers of the flowering plants do not exist in Owing to above-average winter Stop and smell the roses … or, desert willow, ornamenting its and early spring precipitation in this case, the honey-sweet a vacuum, but are an integral wand-like branches with tiny this year, the desert is poised fragrance of whitebrush, part of the larger ecosystem. lavender corsages—a distinct to put on its show somewhat the grape Kool-Aid scent of And be careful—the Big Bend touch of class. earlier that usual—a floral mountain laurel or the pungent in bloom may change your matinee of sorts. Expect a No matter the month you aroma of creosotebush after a image of the desert forever. cascade of blooms in May and visit Big Bend Ranch, be sure rain. Observe the host of other Ride Big Bend Ranch .......................2 Big Bend Ranch State Park Map ............6 Table of Be Aware .................................3 Access and Visitor Services ................8 Featured Campsites ........................3 Limited Time? ............................9 contents Featured Hike .............................4 Zone-tailed Hawks at Big Bend Ranch SP . 10 Featured Mountain Biking ...................4 Histories Intersect at Crawford-Smith Site . 11 Fees and Visitor Services ...................5 A River Runs By It: The River Road ........ 12 El Solitario is published twice per year by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Welcome to Big Bend Ranch Ride Big Bend Ranch State Park account of what to expect water sources are scarce. Pay TEXAS STATE PARKS along the way, while “The careful attention to signage Ride” supplies a point-to-point and remain aware of where description of each route, sup- you are and where you are BIG BEND RANCH plemented by a detailed map. going at all times. Signage may be incomplete, so a good The guide also provides BIking guide sense of direction is helpful, as “ride rating” and “ride time” THETHE OTHER OTHER SIDE SIDE OFOF NOWHERENOWHERE well as a bike odometer, GPS estimates. These ratings are unit and map. Note that the subjective and will vary from mileages provided in the biking person to person. guide are approximate. Most By Rod Trevizo, “Ride Rating” is determined routes are rugged and rough General Superintendent Earl Nottingham based on how hard the cyclist and are not maintained to “city This is our sixth edition of El will physically work on the park” bike trail standards. Solitario, a publication that will ride, depending on fitness Trail conditions can change help you plan your visit to Big level, trail roughness and/ due to weather or seasonal Bend Ranch State Park and or biking skills required. The vegetation growth. Cyclists are learn about its rich natural and actual difficulty of each ride urged to check with park staff cultural history. will vary depending on weather to determine the latest trail conditions and other factors. information. We have continued to expand There are no “technical” trail access to the park’s interior by Remember that all natural, routes in BBRSP. However, Hot off the press! Read all historical and cultural adding hiking, mountain biking beginner-level riders should about it! The new biking guide resources are protected at Big and equestrian trails. Park roads stick to the routes rated to Big Bend Ranch State Park Bend Ranch. Please stay on are continually being improved “Easy” or “Easy/Moderate.” is ready and waiting for you designated trails and roads, and wayfinding signage added at Sauceda Ranger Station, “Ride Time” is an estimate and leave everything as you for your comfort and safety. Be Barton Warnock Visitor that assumes a moderate level find it. sure to review the park map Center or Fort Leaton State of physical fitness. Actual ride located in the centerfold for the Many ride possibilities exist Historic Site. times will vary depending on latest updates. in addition to those described weather conditions and other The guide provides directional in the booklet. Some rides can Following the devastating floods factors. The estimates do not information for 28 specific be combined or improvised of 2008, you will now find new rides that you won’t want to include time spent changing upon, or combined with hikes campsites along the River miss. Included for each are tires, eating, resting, hiking and other side-trips. Visit Road (F.M. 170) corridor – 15 specifics on distance, elevation or exploring. the park’s Web site for more at Grassy Banks, six at Lower change, route surface and When cycling at Big Bend information: www.tpwd.state. Madera and five at Upper access. The “Trail Notes” Ranch, be aware that trails tx.us/bigbendranch. Madera. These sites remain section gives a narrative are a “work in progress” and on a first-come, first-served basis. For all other camping and lodging needs or for information A trek through the backcountry about special events, phone the Sauceda Ranger Station of Big Bend Ranch State Park is Earl Nottingham (432) 358-4444 or visit the Big Bend Ranch State Park guaranteed to take you out of the Web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us/ ordinary and into “the Zone.” bigbendranch). Happy Trails! IF YOU GO recommended for walking in rocky Maps and trail guides: Visit the by advance reservation. Find arroyos and creekbeds. A GPS unit TPWD Web site (www.tpwd.state. campsite descriptions, photos is helpful. ALWAYS CARRY TWO tx.us) before going. A limited supply and GPS coordinates at www. Water requirements: 200 – 220 SPARES. may be available at the park. Other tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch. ounces of water per day while online map sources include Google Access: Obtain a park permit The Big House and bunkhouse at riding (the equivalent of two Earth, USGS (www.usgs.gov) and from the Barton Warnock Visitor Sauceda are available by advance large Camelbacks) TNRIS maps (www.tnris.state.tx.us). Center in Lajitas (432-424-3327); reservation (432-358-4444). Plan ahead of time: Advance Fort Leaton State Historic Site Commercial outfitters: Terlingua- Lodging outside the park: Lajitas planning is critical. Obtain in Presidio (432-229-3613); or based Desert Sports (432-371-2489) maps and study them before Sauceda Ranger Station inside is the nearest outfitter and guide Resort and Spa (www.lajitas.com) going. Get your bike and gear the park (432-358-4444). Hours service. SAG and guide support are offers 103 rooms, a restaurant, together, arrange for guide are 8:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. every highly recommended for multi-day spa and pool. Chinati Hot Springs services and SAG support, and day. Allow time for a mandatory trips through the park. Bikes are (www.chinatihotsprings.com) be sure you have containers orientation session (about 15 available for rent at commercial offers sustainably designed cabins, outfitters and at the park. large enough to carry sufficient minutes). There are minimal a community kitchen, a “cool water. Hard-soled shoes are day-use and camping fees. Park lodging: Campsites available pool,” and hot-spring pools. 2 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Be Aware: For your safety and welfare Featured Campsites Many wonderful animals In the unlikely event that Yedra 1 & 2 live here and play a vital you encounter a black bear role in the balance of or mountain lion, do not run. Instead, face the animal, nature. You are a guest make noise and try to look in their home. By learning as large as possible.