© Lonely Planet Publications 518 Western Central Highlands With exquisite colonial architecture, fine food, better tequila, butterfly orgies, lonely indigenous pueblos, bustling cities, battling mariachi bands and volcanic calderas, the western central highlands are your wonderland. This region includes Guadalajara, Colima, Morelia, Pátzcuaro and Uruapan, yet tourists often forego this fascinating land, making it even more appealing. Locals are warm and generous, the streets are perfectly safe, the economy is strong and cul- tural traditions thrive, especially in the countryside. The climate is superb (sunny, but never too hot, during the days and cool, but seldom too cold, at night) and the natural beauty is diverse and mind-blowing. You’ll see layered mountains, expansive lakes, thundering rivers and waterfalls and an endless tapestry of cornfields, avocado groves, agave plantations and cattle ranches. This is Mexico’s beating heart. Guadalajara – capital of Jalisco state – sprawls, but it doesn’t overwhelm; it’s a great walking city, blessed with handy public transportation. Morelia, Michoacán state’s drop-dead gorgeous capital, may be the best city (in the world, not just in Mexico) that you’ve never heard of. Think stunning colonial architecture, a young population and an emerging hipster scene. Nearby is the Reserva Mariposa Monarca, a forested butterfly sanctuary you’ll remember forever. Pátzcuaro, an endearing colonial town and the epicenter of Michoacán’s indigenous Purépecha culture, HIGHLANDS HIGHLANDS is the place to be during Mexico’s Día de Muertos celebration. Uruapan and Colima both have a touch of the subtropical and are near fascinating volcanoes: Paricutín, which rose from the WESTERN CENTRAL Uruapan countryside almost overnight, the bubbling Volcán de Fuego and the spectacular snowy cones of Volcán Nevado de Colima. Mexico does not get any better than this. HIGHLIGHTS Stroll Guadalajara ( p520 ) on a Sunday, when the streets fill with local families, art museums are free, ancient churches buzz with worship and the sidewalk cafés are packed Guadalajara Explore spectacular Morelia ( p556 ) with its glowing cathedral, rooftop bars and clubs Volcán nestled in Spanish relics Nevado Morelia de Colima Pátzcuaro Absorb the beauty of the Reserva Mariposa Reserva Volcán Mariposa Monarca (Monarch Butterfly Reserve; p563 ) Paricutín Monarca the winter retreat for millions of butterflies Peer into the mystical soul of the Purépecha people in tranquil Pátzcuaro ( p566 ) Bag two volcanic peaks, the snowy and ex- tinct Volcán Nevado de Colima ( p555 ) and young, precocious Volcán Paricutín ( p581 ) GUADALAJARA JANUARY DAILY HIGH: 52°F | 11°C GUADALAJARA JULY DAILY HIGH: 26°C | 79°F lonelyplanet.com WESTERN CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 519 0 100 km WESTERN CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 0 60 miles 105ºW 103ºW To Zacatecas 101ºW (123km) To Saltillo (214km) MEX Z a c a t e c a s MEX 57 45 MEX S a n L u i s 49 Villanueva MEX P o t o s í N a y a r i t 71 SAN LUIS MEX POTOSÍ MEX 66 MEX Mountain 54 70 MEX Río MEX 70 Time Zone Aguascalientes 80 Verde MEX 70 Ojuelos Santa María To Mazatlán MEX del Río (250km) Central AGUASCALIENTES de Jalisco Time 23 Zone MEX MEX MEX 80 51 57 TEPIC MEX MEX 71 45D Lagos de San Felipe MEX Moreno 54 MEX MEX Compostela Verde ᝲᝲSan Luis 45 110 de la Paz See Lago de Chapala & MEX San Juan MEX Southern Mountains Map (p546) Río 80D de los Lagos León 21ºN 15 GUANAJUATO 21ºN MEX San Miguel Ixtlán 15D Magdalena MEX de Allende del Río 71 Tequila MEX G u a n a j u a t o MEX 37 Q u e r é t a r o 80 ᝲᝲ Atotonilco Irapuato GUADALAJARA Zapotlanejo Salamanca QUERÉTARO Mascota Ameca MEX El Alto Acatlán 90 MEX MEX 90 43 Celaya MEX Chapala Ocotlán La Barca La Piedad MEX 80 Lago de MEX 51 J a l i s c o Chapala 35 MEX MEX 120 110 Angamacutiro Salvatierra Acámbaro Jiquilpan MEX To Mexico City Tapala MEX MEX Zamora 15D 54D Cuitzeo Maravatio (68km) Mazamitla 15 WESTERN CENTRAL Autlán Ciudad Zacapu Zinapécuaro Venustiano Guzmán Ciudad Reserva de la Biosfera Carranza Cherán Capula Hidalgo Reserva HIGHLANDS Paracho Quiroga MORELIA Mariposa Sierra de Manantlán Tamazula Los Angahuan Lago de Tzintzuntzan Angangueo Monarca To Puerto Vallarta Volcán Nevado de Gordiano Pátzcuaro Reyes Pátzcuaro MEX (200km) de Colima Tecalitlán Zitácuaro Minatitlán 15 To Mexico MEX Volcán Uruapan MEX Comala 110 See Around M i c h o a c á n City (52km) Cihuatlán Colima Map Paricutín MEX 41 37 MEX COLIMA (p554) Tacámbaro MEX 200 Tepalcatepec MEX 51 To Toluca C o l i m a MEX (10km) 120 Puruarán Manzanillo 120 Nueva 19ºN 19ºN Cuyutlán Tecomán Italia La Huacana Tiquicheo El Paraíso Coalcomán Presa MEX Coahuayana Aguililla Infiernillo 134 M é x i c o Aquila Huetamo San Lucas P A C I F I C MEX Ciudad MEX MEX Arteaga 37 Altamirano 51 200 O C E A N Titzupan G u e r r e r o To Taxco Tlapehuala Rí o B (10km) MEX al To Zihuatanejo 134 sa (30km) s 103ºWPlaya Azul Lázaro Cárdenas 101ºW History under Spanish control until the notorious The western central highlands were too far campaigns of Nuño de Guzmán. Between from the Maya and Aztecs to fall under their 1529 and 1536 he tortured, killed and en- influence, but in the 14th to 16th centuries slaved indigenous people from Michoacán the Tarascos in northern Michoacán de- to Sinaloa. His grizzly victories made him veloped a robust pre-Hispanic civilization. rich and famous and won him governorship When the Aztecs took notice and attacked, of his conquered lands, until news of his war the Tarascos were able to hold strong thanks crimes leaked out. He was sent back to Spain too their copper blades. West of the Tarascos and imprisoned for life in 1538. was their rival, Chimalhuacán − a confed- This fertile ranching and agriculture re- eration of four indigenous kingdoms that gion developed gradually and Guadalajara spread through parts of present day Jalisco, (established in 1542 and always one of Colima and Nayarit states. To the north were Mexico’s biggest cities) became the ‘capital the Chichimecs. of the west.’ The church, with help from the Colima, the leading Chimalhuacán king- enlightened bishop Vasco de Quiroga, fos- dom, was conquered by the Spanish in 1523. tered small industries and handicraft tradi- The whole region, however, was not brought tions around the villages of Lago Pátzcuaro 520 GUADALAJARA •• History lonelyplanet.com in its effort to ease the continuing poverty of Getting There & Around the indigenous people. All major cities in the western central high- In the 1920s the region’s two major states, lands (Guadalajara, Colima, Morelia and Michoacán and Jalisco, were hotbeds of the Uruapan) are well connected by regional and Cristero rebellion by Catholics against gov- national bus lines. Guadalajara and Morelia ernment antichurch policies. Lázaro Cárdenas have regular flights from many other cities in of Michoacán, as state governor (1928−32) Mexico, as well as from the US. and then as Mexican president (1934−40), instituted reforms that did much to abate antigovernment sentiments. GUADALAJARA Today both Jalisco and Michoacán hold many of Mexico’s natural resources – es- x33 / pop 4.1 million (metro area) / elevation pecially timber, mining, livestock and ag- 1540m riculture – and Jalisco has a thriving tech Guadalajara’s countless charms are distrib- industry. In the past, both states have seen uted equally and liberally throughout its large segments of their population head to distinct neighborhoods. The city’s Centro the US for work. Michoacán reportedly lost Histórico (Historic Center) is dotted with almost half its population to emigrations and proud colonial relics that house museums, money sent home has approached two bil- government offices, bars and hotels. There lion dollars. But with a growing economy are dozens of leafy plazas with gushing foun- and accessible credit, the free flow north has tains, strolling families and shredding skaters. slowed and these days many have decided to The Zona Rosa, more modern and spread return to Mexico and open up businesses on out, is sprinkled with fashionable restau- their home soil. rants, coffee houses and nightclubs. Mellow suburbs Tlaquepaque (upscale) and Tonalá Climate (grassroots) are the folk-art shoppers’ dream The climate is pleasantly warm and dry most destinations; and Zapopan has some inter- of the year, with a distinct rainy season from esting colonial sites, but is better known as Guadalajara’s Beverly Hills. This is where the HIGHLANDS HIGHLANDS June to September (when rainfall reaches 200mm per month). At lower altitudes, beautiful and fabulous live on shady estates WESTERN CENTRAL temperature and humidity rise and tropical accessed by cobblestone streets. Guadalajara plants bloom. In higher-altitude towns, such residents (nicknamed tapatíos, which also as Pátzcuaro, winter nights are chilly. refers to anyone Jalisco-born) are warm and eager to share the essence of their city. Parks & Reserves Guadalajara’s many contributions to the The western central highlands has perhaps Mexican lifestyle include tequila, mariachi the most diverse array of wild, green spaces music, the broad-rimmed sombrero, char- in all of Mexico. Inland Colima’s Parque readas (rodeos) and the Mexican Hat Dance Nacional Volcán Nevado de Colima ( p555 ) and these days it is also known for its out- is home to two towering volcanoes (3820m standing food. From street-side taco and and 4240m), the taller one is snow crusted, torta ahogada stands to neighborhood cafés the other still smolders. On the other end to fine dining rooms in restored colonial man- of Inland Colima is the untouched Sierra de sions – you’re never far from a great meal in Manantlán Biosphere Reserve ( p555 ).