THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF FOOD “Whether motivated by an interest in history or food, all readers will find much to stimu- late their thinking in this book. Carol Helstosky has assembled a collection of essays that reflects how diverse and rich the field of food history has become and establishes it as a research specialisation in its own right that contributes much to the discipline. Focussed on the last 500 years, the collection provides a synthesis of research that charts the direction of the field and reflects the transformation of the world food system within the broader his- torical context; a valuable resource that will introduce food history to a broad audience and inspire historians to recognize the significance of food for understanding the past and the everyday.” Adele Wessell, Southern Cross University, Australia The history of food is one of the fastest growing areas of historical investigation, incor- porating methods and theories from cultural, social, and women’s history while forging a unique perspective on the past. The Routledge History of Food takes a global approach to this topic, focusing on the period from 1500 to the present day. Arranged chronologically, this title contains 17 originally commissioned chapters by experts in food history or related topics. Each chapter focuses on a particular theme, idea, or issue in the history of food. The case studies discussed in these chapters illuminate the more general trends of the period, providing the reader with insight into the large-scale and dramatic changes in food history through an understanding of how these develop- ments sprang from a specific geographic and historical context. Examining the history of economic, technological, and cultural interactions between cultures and charting the corresponding developments in food history, The Routledge History of Food challenges readers’ assumptions about what and how people have eaten, bringing fresh perspectives to well-known historical developments. It is the perfect guide for all stu- dents of social and cultural history. Carol Helstosky is Associate Professor of History at Denver University. Her publications include Food Culture in the Mediterranean (2009), Pizza: A Global History (2008) and Garlic and Oil: Food and Politics in Modern Italy (2004). THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORIES The Routledge Histories is a series of landmark books surveying some of the most important topics and themes in history today. Edited and written by an international team of world- renowned experts, they are the works against which all future books on their subjects will be judged. THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF WOMEN IN EUROPE SINCE 1700 Edited by Deborah Simonton THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF SLAVERY Edited by Gad Heuman and Trevor Burnard THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF THE HOLOCAUST Edited by Jonathan C. Friedman THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF CHILDHOOD IN THE WESTERN WORLD Edited by Paula S. Fass THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF SEX AND THE BODY Edited by Kate Fisher and Sarah Toulalan THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF WESTERN EMPIRES Edited by Robert Aldrich and Kirsten McKenzie Forthcoming: THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF GENOCIDE Edited by Cathie Carmichael and Richard Maguire THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF EAST CENTRAL EUROPE Edited by Irina Livezeanu and Arpad von Klimo THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF MEDIEVAL CHRISTIANITY Edited by Robert Swanson THE ROUTLEDGE HISTORY OF FOOD Edited by Carol Helstosky First published 2015 by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN and by Routledge 711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2015 Carol Helstosky for selection and editorial matter; individual extracts, the contributors The right of Carol Helstosky to be identified as author of the editorial material, and of the contributors for their individual chapters, has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilized in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data The Routledge history of food. pages cm. – (The Routledge histories) Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Food–History. 2. Food industry and trade–History. 3. Eating customs–History. TX355.R685 2014 394.1’209–dc23 2014019148 ISBN: 978-0-415-62847-1 (hbk) ISBN: 978-1-315-75345-4 (ebk) Typeset in Baskerville by Taylor & Francis Books CONTENTS List of illustrations vii Notes on contributors viii Introduction Food and the historian xii CAROL HELSTOSKY PART I 1 1500–1700 1 The magic of Japanese rice cakes 3 ERIC C. RATH 2 Food production, consumption, and identity politics in Tahuantinsuyu and colonial Perú 19 ALISON KRÖGEL 3 Stimulants and intoxicants in Europe, 1500–1700 42 KEN ALBALA 4 Science, food and health in Chosoˇn Korea 61 MICHAEL J. PETTID PART II 79 1700–1900 5 Food shortage in colonial Mexico: maize, food policies and the construction of a modern political culture, 1785–1807 81 SARAH BAK-GELLER CORONA 6 “If the King had really been a father to us”: failed food diplomacy in eighteenth- century Sierra Leone 92 RACHEL B. HERRMANN v CONTENTS 7 Stolen bodies, edible memories: the influence and function of West African foodways in the early British Atlantic 113 KELLEY FANTO DEETZ 8 Spreading the word: using cookbooks and colonial memoirs to examine the foodways of British colonials in Asia, 1850–1900 131 CECILIA LEONG-SALOBIR 9 The globalization of alcohol and temperance from the gin craze to prohibition 156 JEFFREY M. PILCHER 10 “Peace on earth among the orders of creation”: vegetarian ethics in the United States before World War I 179 BERNARD UNTI 11 Food, medicine and institutional life in the British Isles, c.1790–1900 200 IAN MILLER 12 Industrializing diet, industrializing ourselves: technology, food, and the body, since 1750 220 CHRIS OTTER PART III 247 1900–present 13 The evolution of a fast food phenomenon: the case of American pizza 249 BONNIE M. MILLER 14 Cooking class: the rise of the “foodie” and the role of mass media 270 KATHLEEN COLLINS 15 Tourism, cuisine, and the consumption of culture in the Caribbean 291 CARLA GUERRÓN MONTERO 16 Food and migration in the twentieth century 313 LARESH JAYASANKER 17 Quick rice: international development and the Green Revolution in Sierra Leone, 1960–1976 332 ZACHARY D. POPPEL Suggestions for further reading 352 Index 356 vi ILLUSTRATIONS Figures 1.1 New Year’s decoration of Kagami mochi rice cakes 7 2.1 “An Inca asks a Spaniard what he eats, he replies ‘Gold’” by Guaman Poma 32 3.1 “The King Drinks” by Jacob Jordaens 46 3.2 “Gin Lane,” engraving after Hogarth 50 3.3 “Beer Street,” engraving after Hogarth 51 12.1 Steam thresher 222 12.2 Crossbred wheat 223 12.3 German abridged high milling 226 12.4 Loading ice into refrigerated trucks 229 12.5 Beef refrigeration equipment 231 12.6 Insulated motor van 232 12.7 Boxed apples 233 16.1 Photograph of Charles Phan, founder of The Slanted Door, 2010 315 16.2 Photograph of David Brown inside India House, 1961 322 16.3 Advertisement and menu for India House 323 Tables 4.1 The Five Phases and their associations 63 8.1 Collection of recipes for Indian cookery, 1910 142 Maps 2.1 Map of Tahuantinsuyu, Incan expansion by 1532 20 15.1 Map of Panama 295 15.2 Map of Bocas del Toro, Panama 300 16.1 Map of India following the 1947 partition 319 vii CONTRIBUTORS Ken Albala is Professor of History at the University of the Pacific in Stockton, California. He is the author or editor of 17 books on food including Eating Right in the Renaissance, Food in Early Modern Europe, Cooking in Europe 1250–1650, The Banquet, Beans (winner of the 2008 IACP Jane Grigson Award), Pancake, and a small book entitled Grow Food, Cook Food, Share Food. Until recently he was co-editor of the journal Food, Culture and Society. He has also co-edited The Business of Food, Human Cuisine, Food and Faith and edited A Cultural History of Food: The Renaissance and The Routledge International Handbook to Food Studies. Albala was also editor of the Food Cultures Around the World series, the four-volume Food Cultures of the World Encyclopedia and is now series editor of Rowman & Littlefield Studies in Food and Gastronomy for which he has written Three World Cuisines: Italian, Chinese, Mexican (winner of the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards’ best foreign cuisine book in the world for 2012). He has co-authored two cookbooks: The Lost Art of Real Cooking and The Lost Arts of Hearth and Home. In 2014, he will publish Food History Reader: Primary Sources, Nuts: A Global History, and a translation of the sixteenth-century cookbook Livre fort excellent de cuysine. Albala is currently editing a three-volume ency- clopedia on Food Issues. Sarah Bak-Geller Corona received her doctorate in history from the École des Hautes Études in Social Sciences (Paris, France). She has written articles and book chapters about cuisine, culture, and power in Latin American colonial contexts; food, body, and race in Mexico; culinary recipes and national identities; the spread of gastronomic models between Iberoamerica and France and indigenous food heritage in America. Bak-Geller Corona is the author of Habitar una cocina (2006) and Nacionalismos culinarios en América Latina, to be published by the Dirección General de Culturas Populares- CONACULTA.