TRAVELING IN SEARCH OF Yiddishland CONTEMPORARY THE POLITICS T O U R I N G JEWISHNESS IN OF YIDDISHLAND YIDDISHLAND MONUMENTS THE ACADEMIC AND ON THE IMPORTANCE JEWISH MARK CULTURAL OF MAPPING MAKING AND INSTITUTIONS OF SPACE & VIRTUALITY MEMORIALS TODAY 03 Searching for Yiddishland 05 Travel Tips for Tourists in Yiddishland 4 Politics of Monuments 11 Contemporary Jewish Culture 16 A Poem by Avrom Sutzkever 17 Contemporary Jewish Academia 27 2 Best Yiddish Buildings 29 An Excerpt from "A Night in the Old Market Place" by I.L Peretz 30 Touring Yiddishland & the Digital 33 Conclusions: Why Yiddishland? SEARCHING FOR Some of us weren’t sure we were going to Yiddishland at all. Michael Wex, the YIDDISHLAND Canadian author behind Born to Kvetch, has called Yiddish the "national language of I went in search of Yiddishland with my nowhere," so where does one go to see classmates on spring break of my senior year. nowhere? Spoken by European Jews since Car-sick and anxious to get our travels started, the sixteenth century, Yiddish moved with we all chatted exuberantly on the van ride to the Jews who spoke it as they moved the airport. We knew that the purpose of our eastward. A fusion language primarily made trip was, in fact, rather unique, however, we of German, Hebrew, Aramaic, and a had a rather undefined vision of our own smattering of Slavic languages, Yiddish purpose. eventually settled down with its speakers in Eastern Europe, with Warsaw and Vilnius as The class, an interdisciplinary seminar of the its major capitals. Yiddish is often portrayed Program in Jewish Studies taught by Yiddish as having died with the Holocaust, so if there scholar Justin Cammy, was simply called is no language and there is no "where," then "Yiddishland." We had read voraciously on the what is Yiddishland? subject in class for seven weeks before we left, but the fact remained that we were all going to Jeffrey Shandler, in his essay "Imagining Warsaw, Poland and Vilnius, Lithuania, under Yiddishland" suggests that "Yiddishland is the umbrella of this class trip but with vastly the language's ideal locus, a Yiddish utopia," different understandings of why. Were we but where that exists is a topic of debate. Is searching for ghosts, memories, ghosts of Yiddishland where Yiddish is currently memories? Six out of the thirteen of us had spoken? If so, our trip was in vain Yiddish is learned Yiddish in college; were we looking to rarely spoken in Poland or Lithuania outside see the homeland of our second language? We of a few, small circles. If Yiddishland is "a were a group of different backgrounds and locus defined by language," and the "printed interests, united by a common interest in page," then Yiddishland lived in our laptops diaspora; were we in search of diaspora and class readings, only accessible to a third culture? We took comfort in the academia of it of the class. The only acceptable model for all, in our big binders full of literature and our class was to define Yiddishland as a maps, but while traveling, whispers of “turf, not a language,” one of the many emotional responses took place behind closed possibilities that Shandler mulls over. Only hotel room doors. then would touring Vilnius and Warsaw become a trip to Yiddishland. 1 Of course, these definitions are primarily What was the use of visiting the “turf” concerned with post-war possibilities for of Yiddishland if there was no Yiddish Yiddishland. There was a true space, or true to be heard, the majority of Yiddish spaces, where Yiddishland existed before appearing on monuments, markers, and the Holocaust. Cecile Kuznitz writes on the aging store fronts? And what about the Jewish geography of Vilnius, “largely majority of students who couldn’t created through the use of a distinct understand it, anyway? language. While the city officially changed from Vilna to Wilno to Vilnius, for Jews the The following pages are an attempt to city continued to be Yerushalayim d’lite (the wrestle with the possible meanings of Jerusalem of Lithuania).” Marked by this collective experience. They are an synagogue courtyards, Yiddish “verbal engagement with Yiddish academia, markers,” and Yiddish street signs, Vilnius tourism, memory and memorialization, was a metropolis of Yiddish life and place and placemaking, and past and literature, producing such great names as present Jewish communities. They can Moyshe Kulbak, Avrom Sutzkever, and also function as a very specific type of Chayim Grade. Much the same could be said guide: if you, too, want to understand for Warsaw, where Yiddish in the inter-war Yiddishland and wonder where to start, period became the language of heated consider the following... political debate and Jewish youth movements. -- Teddy Schneider, Editor and Creator of Yiddishland Magazine Now, in the post-war period, I am inclined to agree with Jeffrey Shandler who wrote that many post-war Yiddishlands engage with Yiddish “as a post-vernacular language.” Yiddish postvernacularity has swept through some of the biggest Yiddish cultural institutions in the world, and as “the need to define Yiddishland explicitly” becomes understood as a necessity, “efforts to conjure Yiddishland take place in languages other than Yiddish.” To engage with the concept of Yiddishland without the language is an exercise in emptiness, which some of our classmates picked up on. 2 TRAVEL TIPS FOR TOURISTS IN YIDDISHLAND Traveling to Yiddishland can be difficult if you don't have a set itinerary and syllabus like our class this semester. Here are some tips we've compiled from our trip participants to help get you started. 1. DO YOUR HOMEWORK Because Yiddishland is a transnational space with a long history of literature, political engagement, food, music, and more, take the time before your trip to really get to know the history of the places you're going to see. Once you're there, it will help you if you're situated in your recently acquired background knowledge, rather than trying to conceptualize Yiddishland and see what's in front of you at the same time. 2. PROCURE A COPY OF "SAY IT IN YIDDISH" If you’re seeking Yiddishland in Eastern Europe, a must-buy is the tiny pamphlet “Say it in Yiddish!” published in 1958. Although Jeffrey Shandler reminds his readers that at the time of its publication there were still many Yiddish speaking communities around the globe, the book has become something of a debate topic among Yiddish intellectuals and creative minds. Of course, “Say It in Yiddish!” will be utterly useless in Eastern Europe today. Still, we at Yiddishland Magazine believe that if you’re going in search of Yiddishland you should at least speak a little Yiddish… even if it’s just “I don’t speak very good Yiddish.” 3. DECIDE WHAT YOU WANT FROM YOUR TOUR Deciding what you want from your tour is an essential part of any trip, but in the case of Yiddishland there’s much to decide specific to Jewishness and Yiddish. Are you interested in Jewish death? Jewish life? Both? If you’re interested in Jewish life, are you interested in historical Jewish cultural sites? Do monuments to Jewish achievements spark your interest? What about contemporary Jewish culture? With the answers to these questions in mind, we hope that Yiddishland Magazine will help you decide where to go and the types of questions you might want to ask. 3 THE POLITICS OF MONUMENTS & MEMORY One of the most prominent features of the Eastern European post-war Jewish landscape is that of the monument. Almost everywhere of any major Jewish importance in Warsaw or Vilnius one can expect to find at least a small plaque or statue signifying the Jewish nature of the space. Engaging with monuments and efforts of memorialization on a constant basis, as one must do when they travel to explore Yiddishland in Poland and Lithuania, can be emotionally exhausting. Our group was fortunate enough to be able to confront questions of how government, identity, language, history and memory can all convene at the site of the monument. 4 THE POLITICS OF MONUMENTS YIDDISH & LITHUANIAN PLAQUES IN VILNIUS Dovid Katz, scholar, author, and “the only city in the world with eccentric, lives in Vilnius, Lithuania. municipally sponsored public He is the organizer of a website and plaques and signs that regularly movement called “Defending include Yiddish,” but reprimands History.” Katz’s mission statement the city for prioritizing Hebrew for on defendinghistory.org states that all the Israeli heritage tourists who the organization “believes it is come to Vilna by putting Hebrew important to resist attempts to above Yiddish on a street sign. impose Double Genocide as a new Katz, in a private lecture for our model for World War II history,” class in his apartment, told us that that is, Katz works to deny the fact he regularly participates in the that Lithuanians and Jews were writing and placement of plaques equally targeted by the Nazis and around Vilnius denoting not only following Soviet occupation. In street names, but the homes of addition to providing a famous Yiddish writers and the comprehensive guide to reading sites of Holocaust atrocities. Katz’s Jewish gravestones and keeping his obsession with maintaining followers informed of all local (and Yiddish as one of the primary even international) political events languages of monument-making having to do with all things Jewish and memorialization may seem and Holocaust, Katz takes a special overly enthusiastic, but his efforts interest in the plaques and street (and the efforts of those who signs all around Vilnius that have share his opinions, at least to written Yiddish on them.