SAGVNTVM PAPELES DEL LABORATORIO DE ARQUEOLOGÍA DE VALENCIA EXTRA - 20 INTERWEAVING TRADITIONS: CLOTHING AND TEXTILES IN BRONZE AND IRON AGE IBERIA EDITED BY BEATRIZ MARÍN-AGUILERA AND MARGARITA GLEBA FACULTAT DE GEOGRAFIA I HISTÒRIA Departament de Prehistòria, Arqueologia i Història Antiga 2020 SAGVNTVM. Papeles del Laboratorio de Arqueología de Valencia Extra-20 2020 Informació i intercanvis: Departament de Prehistòria, Arqueologia i Història Antiga Facultat de Geografia i Història Av. Blasco Ibáñez, 28 - 46010 València (Espanya) Fax: (+34) 96 3983887 e-mail: [email protected] Subscripció i vendes: PUV-Servei de Publicacions de la Universitat de València C. Arts Gràfiques, 13 - 46010 València [email protected] Consulta on-line: http://ojs.uv.es/index.php/saguntumextra © Universitat de València Departament de Prehistòria, Arqueologia i Història Antiga Facultat de Geografia i Història Imprimeix: LAIMPRENTA I.S.B.N.: 978-84-9133-327-2 Dipòsit Legal: V-2243-2020 Imatge de la portada: Representació sobre ceràmica de dos dones treballant amb un teler vertical. Edeta, Sant Miquel de Llíria. Procedència: Museu de Prehistòria de València. Summary EDITORS’ PREFACE ............................................................................................................................................................... 9 PREFACE: STUDIES OF ANCIENT TEXTILES IN SPAIN ................................................................................................................. 11 Carmen Alfaro Giner TRACING TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN THE BRONZE - EARLY IRON AGE IBERIAN PENINSULA: AN INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................................................. 17 Margarita Gleba SHELLFISH PURPLE PRODUCTION IN IBERIA AND THE BALEARIC ISLANDS IN THE PRE-ROMAN PERIOD: ARCHAEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE IN ITS MEDITERRANEAN CONTEXT .............................................................. 29 Enrique García Vargas TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCTION OF REDDISH PURPLE VEGETABLE DYE IN THE BRONZE AND IRON AGES: WRITTEN SOURCES AND TEXTILE REMAINS IN THE IBERIAN PENINSULA .......................................................... 47 Mª Julia Martínez García EXPLOITATION OF SECONDARY PRODUCTS AT THE PHOENICIAN SITE OF TEATRO CÓMICO, CÁDIZ (SPAIN) ........................................................................................................................................... 57 Verónica Estaca-Gómez, José Yravedra Sainz de los Terreros, Gonzalo Linares-Matás, José Mª Gener Basallote, Mª de los Ángeles Navarro García, Juan Miguel Pajuelo Sáez, Mariano Torres Ortiz FUNCTIONALITY AND ECONOMIC USE OF ANIMALS IN EARLY IRON AGE CENTRAL IBERIA .......................................................... 71 Verónica Estaca-Gómez SIGNIFICANCE OF TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN THE ARGARIC CULTURE (SPAIN) .............................................................................. 83 Francisco Javier Jover Maestre, Juan Antonio López Padilla, Ricardo E. Basso Rial AMONG THREADS AND LOOMS. MAINTENANCE ACTIVITIES IN THE IBERIAN SOCIETIES: THE CASE OF EL CERRO DE LA PLAZA DE ARMAS IN PUENTE TABLAS (JAÉN) ........................................................................... 97 Carmen Rísquez Cuenca, Carmen Rueda Galán, Ana B. Herranz Sánchez, Míriam Vilches Suárez TEXTILES AND RITUALITY IN THE LATE TARTESSIAN CULTURE OF THE GUADIANA VALLEY ........................................................ 113 Luis Berrocal-Rangel, Sebastián Celestino Pérez, Esther Rodríguez González TEXTILES AND RITUALITY IN IBERIAN CULTURE ...................................................................................................................... 129 Lourdes Prados Torreira, Mª Elena Sánchez Moral SPINNING THE WORLD - A FINAL COMMENT .......................................................................................................................... 141 Beatriz Marín-Aguilera SAGVNTVM EXTRA. Títulos publicados en la serie .............................................................................................................. 153 EDITORS’ PREFACE In the past few years the field of archaeological textile research has witnessed a major dynamism as demonstrated by numerous conferences and publications on the topic, as well as establishment of large-scale interdisciplinary colla- borative programmes. New scientific methods have been or are being developed within archaeology to gain new knowledge about ancient textiles on an unprecedented scale. Compared to Central and Northern Europe, textile research in Spain and Portugal has been a rather neglected field until recently. The reason most often cited for the absence of studies on ancient textiles in both countries is their extre- mely poor preservation. Textiles, however, are much more common finds than generally thought and survive in original organic state but also as carbonised and mineralised traces, as well as in the form of imprints. In addition, there are numerous other sources of evidence, such as textile tools, archaeobotanic and zooarchaeological remains, as well as iconographic and written sources, which permit us to gain valuable information about many and varied aspects of tex- tile production in ancient Iberia. This special volume of Sagvntvm stems from an interdisciplinary workshop organised on 17 February 2017 by the European Research Council funded 5-year project PROCON - Production and Consumption: Textile Economy and Urbanisation in Mediterranean Europe 1000-500 BCE (FP/2007-2013-312603; PI Margarita Gleba) based at the Uni- versity of Cambridge in the UK. The workshop gathered specialists in textile archaeology, conservation, archaeobotany and zooarchaeology in order to bring together and to discuss the various methods and approaches to ancient textile and fibre studies in Spain. We hope that this issue will demonstrate the potential of archaeological textiles and related sou- rces for the investigation of ancient Iberian economy, technology and agriculture and encourage new research direc- tions in this subject. We would like to thank all the speakers for participating in this workshop, whose enthusiasm and insightful discus- sion eventually led to the publication of this volume. We are grateful to Andrés Carretero Pérez and Carmen Marcos Alonso for hosting the workshop at the National Archaeological Museum in Madrid, as well as to Carmen Cacho Que- sada, Ruth Maicas Ramos and Eduardo Galán for their support and active participation in the workshop. We appreciate the preliminary language editing of the papers by Jeremy Bennett, and the work of the reviewers who improved the quality of the articles of this volume. The European Research Council generously financed both the workshop and its publication, for which we are deeply thankful. SAGVNTVM-EXTRA 20. BEATRIZ MARÍN-AGUILERA, MARGARITA GLEBA (EDS.): 9 INTERWEAVING TRADITIONS: CLOTHING AND TEXTILES IN BRONZE AND IRON AGE IBERIA PREFACE: STUDIES OF ANCIENT TEXTILES IN SPAIN CARMEN ALFARO GINER Universitat de València. [email protected] INTRODUCTION1 conservation treatment. A complete formal and historical study of the excavated material is the next step. At this Fibres and textiles, dated to different periods and stage, the textile researcher should not only focus on the from diverse contexts, provide us with invaluable infor- physical description of the object, but also on the social mation about textile production despite the perishable and cultural meaning of the find, that is, the role that the nature of these objects. Organic materials are always textile could have played in the human environment in more or less deteriorated when excavated. In spite of this, which it was created. All these steps require a collabora- their importance from the point of view of the history of tion between different specialists: archaeologists, conser- ancient technologies is enormous, for they allow us to vators, specialists in fibres and textiles, and historians. reconstruct human crafts, customs, fashions, and Throughout the time that I have personally dedicated everyday life in general. Moreover, they greatly comple- to the study of ancient fibres, ropes, baskets, nets, and ment Classical written sources on the topic of textile pro- fabrics, I have been involved in the analysis of many duction and consumption. finds that exemplify the points made above. Any organic The recovery of organic materials is improving thanks archaeological object, no matter how damaged it may ap- to the care with which objects are currently unearthed and pear when excavated, provides invaluable information to their subsequent conservation. In most cases, they are regarding the technologies with which it was made, the small fragments that do not look very attractive, but which, intention of its use, and even its economic, religious, and under the expert eye, offer an invaluable amount of infor- social significance. mation. The degree of preservation varies depending on The study of ancient textiles is not an easy task and the environment surrounding the object (e.g. humidity le- often requires an expert who, once the find and its con- vels, presence of metal objects, constant temperature, etc.). text have been described, would delve into issues of grea- Two elements are fundamental for the successful analysis ter complexity. Reaching a proficient level of knowledge of textile fragments: their careful excavation and a good in this field of expertise is a long and complex process SAGVNTVM-EXTRA 20. BEATRIZ MARÍN-AGUILERA,