Dreicer & Company Forgotten Jewelers of the Gilded Age Anna W. Rasche Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Master of Arts in the History of Design & Curatorial Studies Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum; and Parsons School of Design 2018 ©2018 Anna W. Rasche All Rights Reserved Table of Contents i Illustration Credits 1 Introduction 4 Chapter I Growth of a Business 24 Chapter II Jewelry in Reconstruction New York City 39 Chapter III Creating the Dreicer Look 70 Liquidation & Conclusion 75 Bibliography 82 Appendices a)Timeline b)Dreicer-Owned Properties 86 Illustrations i ILLUSTRATIONS p.VII The Dreicer Building, 560 5th Avenue from a Dreicer & Company advertising pamphlet c. 1910 - 1920. Image ​ courtesy Hagley Library & Archives. Chapter 1 1-1. Photograph of Michael Dreicer. Jeweler’s Circular August 3rd, 1921, p. 97.Public Domain. ​ ​ ​ 1-2. Diamond, Pearl & Platinum Necklace. Dreicer & Co, c. 1905. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Public ​ Domain. 1-3. Photograph of Jacob Dreicer as a Young Man. Appeared in “Business: Tears for Love” in Time Magazine, ​ ​ ​ October, 1927. Image © Time, Inc. 1-4. “A Pearl & Diamond Bracelet by Jacob Dreicer,” Lot 205, Bonhams, London, Knightsbridge. December 10th, ​ 2014. Image © Bonhams. http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/21548/lot/205/ ​ 1-5. “Jacob Dreicer & Son. A diamond & pearl pendant set with numerous natural pearls, rose cut diamonds, mounted ​ in 14k gold & platinum, Circa 1900.” Lot 1608/1139, Bruun Rasmussen, February 24, 2016. Image © Bruun Rasmussen. https://bruun-rasmussen.dk/m/lots/B286297D794E ​ 1-6. 1128 Broadway shortly after the Dreicer’s tenure there, shown in “Broadway, East Side. 25th - 27th Streets” from ​ A Pictorial History of Broadway, published 1899. New York Public Library, Digital Collections. Image Public ​ Domain. 1-7. 292 5th Avenue shortly after the Dreicer’s tenure thre, shown in “No. 284 Gilman Collamore & Co. - No. 304 ​ W.A. McClaughlin, shirtmaker” in Fifth Avenue, New York, From Start to Finish published 1911. New York Public ​ ​ Library , Digital Collections. Image Public Domain. 1-8.1. J. Dreicer & Son Enamel, Diamond & Gold Ladies’ Watch & Pin, c. 1895. Image © Crossroads Antique & ​ Estate Jewelry, Texas. https://www.rubylane.com/item/150099-1041/Antique-Ladyx27s-18K-Gold-French-Enamel ​ 1-8.2. J. Dreicer & Son Enamel, Diamond & Gold Ladies’ Watch & Pin, c. 1895. Image © 1st Dibs. ​ https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/watches/pocket-watches/dreicer-son-yellow-gold-diamond-green-enamel-pocket-wat ch-brooch/id-j_171130/ 1-9. J. Dreicer & Son, “Three Diamond Brooches.” Lot 1090, Rago Auctions, December 5, 2010. ​ https://www.ragoarts.com/auctions/2010/12/05/jewelry/1090 1-10.1. Photograph of Ida McKinley wearing J. Dreicer & Son Tiara, c. 1901. Image Public Domain. ​ 1-10.2. J. Dreicer & Son, Winged Tiara owned by Ida McKinley, c. 1892 - 1901. Diamond, platinum & yellow gold. ​ William McKinley Presidential Library & Museum. ii 1-11. “Building of Dreicer & Co., 5th Avenue, New York, Warren & Wetmore, Architects.” c. 1912. Published in The ​ ​ Architectural Yearbook, Volume 1, p. 371. Image Public Domain. ​ 1-12.1. Interior of Dreicer & Company at 560 5th Avenue, New York, c. 1907. Byron Company. Museum of the City ​ of New York, 93.1.1.1930. 1-12.2. Interior of Dreicer & Company at 560 5th Avenue, New York, c. 1907. Byron Company. Museum of the City ​ of New York, 93.1.1.1930. 1-12.3. Interior of Dreicer & Company at 560 5th Avenue, New York, c. 1907. Byron Company. Museum of the City ​ of New York, 93.1.1.1930. 1-13. “Mrs. Michael Dreicer” (Maisie Shainwald Dreicer), c. 1910. Miniature Portrait by Eulabee Dix. ​ Chapter 2 2-1 “Silver-Topped Gold & Diamond Star Brooch, Tiffany & Co. c. 1870.” Lot 288, Sotheby’s New York, April 14, ​ 2011. http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2011/magnificent-jewels-n08732/lot.288.html ​ 2-2.1 Mary Todd Lincoln, 1861. Shown wearing a parure of seed pearl jewelry by Tiffany & Co, New York.. ​ Photograph by Mathew Brady. Public Domain. 2-2.2 Mary Todd Lincoln’s seed-pearl Necklace and Matching Bracelets. Tiffany & Co., New York, 1861. Library of ​ ​ Congress, Rare Book and Special Collections Division, Alfred Whital Stern Collection of Lincolniana. 2-3 Demi-Parure of Gold & Coral. Ball, Black & Co., New York, Mid-nineteenth Century. Metropolitan Museum of ​ Art, 2000.565.1. 2-4 “A Fine Gold Woven Fringe Revival Necklace,” Castellani. Lot 85, Freeman’s Auctions June 14, 2010. ​ http://auctions.freemansauction.com/auction-lot-detail/A%20fine%20gold%20woven%20fringe%20revival%20necklac e,%20Castellani,%20arche/1374++++++85+/++737692 2-5 Egyptian Revival Micromosaic Bracelet, Italian, Nineteenth Century. Image via DK Bressler. ​ 2-6 Crescent Pansy Brooch, Krementz & Co., c. 1900. Lot 229, Treadway 20th Century Art & Design, December 3, ​ 2016. 2-7 Lady Granville’s Beetle Parure, Phillip’s Brothers, 1884-85. British Museum, 2016,8037.1.a-e. ​ 2-8 “Collier aux Quatre Riviéres” Bapst, Paris, 1863. Public Domain. ​ 2-9 “L’impératrice Eugénie a la Marie-Antionette.” Franz Xavier Winterhalter, 1854. Metropolitan Museum of Art, ​ 1978.403. 2-10 Portrait, Mrs. Pierson, Mrs. Chas. Marshall, Mr. Cooper Hewitt, etc at the Hyde Ball, Sherry’s Hotel. Byron & ​ Company, New York, 1905. Museum of the City of New York Digital Collections. http://collections.mcny.org/C.aspx?VP3=SearchResult&VBID=24UAYWJ8WJTI iii 2-11.1 “Her Most Excellent Majesty Charlotte Queen of Great Britain,” Mezzotint, Thomas Frye, 1862. Royal ​ Collection Trust, RCIN 604595. 2-11.2 Consuelo Vanderbilt, the 9th Duchess of Marlborough, Dressed for the Coronation of King Edward, 1901. ​ Public Domain. 2-12 Diagram of Old European Cut diamond faceting arrangement. ​ 2-13 Advertisement Illustrating the “Tiffany Setting,” Tiffany & Co., New York, 1886. ​ http://tiffanyandco.tumblr.com/post/54349200254/the-tiffany-setting-sketch 2-14 Collet-set Diamond Riviére Necklace, Chaumet, Paris, Nineteenth Century. ​ 2-15 Le Sancy Design Rendering, Marcel de Banneville, Paris 1905. Banneville Designs No. 4, Richard T Liddicoat ​ Gemological Library, Carlsbad, CA. Item ID 00022612. 2-16 Louis XIV Style Corsage Ornament of Diamonds & Platinum, Dreicer & Company, 1915. Shown in “Jewels as ​ Works of Art,” The Lotus Magazine, 7, No. 2, November 1915, 89-90. ​ ​ 2-17 Platinum Medallion Commemorating R-34 TransAtlantic Crossing. Dreicer & Company, 1918. Shown in The ​ ​ Jeweler’s Circular, 79, No.1, Sept. 3, 1919, 123. ​ 2-18 Jewel Commissioned for the Actress Ada Rehan, Marcus & Co., New York c. 1900. Plique a Joure Enamel, Gold. ​ Newark Museum, 2013.2. 2-19 Gentleman’s Watch, Dreicer & Company, Early 20th Century. Yellow Gold, Enamel and Onyx. Shown on page ​ 58, of American Jewelry, Glamour & Tradition. Penny Proddow & Deborah Healy, (New York: Rizolli, 1987). ​ ​ 2-20 Renderings of Opal & Enamel Pendant for Dreicer & Co. Marcel Banneville, c. 1908. Sketchbook ”Collection of ​ ​ ​ ​ Designs & Photographs of Fine Jewelry” c.1908-1940, Carlsbad Archives, Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library, Carlsbad CA. Chapter 3 3-1 Platinum, Diamond and Pearl Necklace, Dreicer & Co., 1912. Design by Marcel Banneville. Sketchbook ​ ​ ”Collection of Designs & Photographs of Fine Jewelry” c.1908-1940, Carlsbad Archives, Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library, Carlsbad CA. 3-2 Art Deco Onyx, Platinum & Diamond Brooch. Dreicer & Co., c. 1920. 1st Dibs. ​ https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/brooches/brooches/dreicer-art-deco-onyx-diamond-platinum-brooch/id-j_1723093/ 3-3 Platinum, Gold, Black Enamel & Diamond Dress Set. Early 20th Century, in fitted Dreicer & Co. Box. Lot 133, ​ Doyle New York, December 13, 2007. https://doyle.com/auctions/17jl05-important-jewelry/catalogue/133-platinum-gold-black-onyx-and-diamond-dress-set iv 3-4.1 “Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Brooch,” Dreicer & Co., Early 20th Century. 1st Dibs. ​ https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/brooches/brooches/dreicer-art-deco-ruby-diamond-brooch/id-j_5120/ 3-4.2 An Art Deco Diamond & Emerald Bracelet. Dreicer & Co, c. 1920. Lot 129, Christie’s New York, April 22, ​ 2009. https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/jewelry/an-art-deco-diamond-and-emerald-bracelet-5194350-details.aspx ​ 3-5 A Model Wearing Dreicer & Co Jewels in “A Hair’s Length Separates Past & Present,” by Nikolas Murray. Vogue, ​ ​ ​ 60, No. 10, November 15, 1922, 39. 3-6 Frontispiece of Pearls, Sapphires, Diamonds, Emeralds & Rubies, (New York: Dreicer & Co, 19--?). Image ​ ​ ​ Courtesy the Hagley Library & Archives Catalogue, Wilmington DE. 3-7 Illustration of “The Necklace.” Dreicer & Company, 1911. Shown in “Who’ll Buy this Million-Dollar Necklace,” ​ Idaho Daily Statesman, December 3, 1911. ​ 3-8 “Natural Pearl Necklace with Platinum & Diamond Clasp.” Dreicer & Co., Early 20th Century. Lot 438, Doyle ​ New York, December 16, 2015. https://doyle.com/auctions/15jl05-important-jewelry/catalogue/438-natural-pearl-necklace-platinum-and-diamond-clas p 3-9 Portrait of Nanaline Holt Inman Duke by Philip Alexius de Laszlo de Lombos, 1926, Doris Duke Charitable ​ Foundation. 3-10 “A Magnificent Burmese Sapphire & Golconda Diamond Pendant.” Dreicer & Co., Early 20th Century. Lot 413, ​ Christie’s Geneva, November 19, 2003. https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/a-magnificent-burmese-sapphire-and-golconda-diamond-4191013-details.aspx 3-11 “The Clark Pink,” Dreicer & Company, c. 1910. Lot 304 Christies, New York April 17, 2012. ​ 3-12 “An Exquisite Art Deco Two-STone Emerald & Diamond Ring.” Dreicer & Company, c. 1920. Lot 654, ​ Christie’s, New York,