ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams Everything seems bigger in the Lone Star State, including the endless possibilities for DEEP IN THE HEART OF TEXAS outdoor exploration. A visit to the heart of Texas Hill Country will plant you amid an amazing constellation of state parks and recreation areas that form a vast natural loop — a crown of sorts, studded with destinations ripe for adventure. From lazy rivers that snake through quiet limestone canyons to natural water- falls, hiking trails set among gently roll- ing woodlands, and a breathtaking climb up an “enchanted” rock, Hill Country beckons RVers with its vivid personality, broad vis- tas and rustic charm. 8 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 2 ROUTE 66 Road Trip DEEP IN THE HEART OF TEXAS Texas Hill Country is rich in rolling scenery and a spectacular concentration of state parks here is surely no Long popular with snowbirders, other place quite like the parks offer year-round camping Texas Hill Country — and mostly mild weather, espe- a wide-open landscape cially in fall, winter and spring. Tas gnarled and weathered as an Even a visit during the heat of old fence post, as sprawling and high summer can be tempered by colorful as a soul-stirring sunset. a welcome dip in clear, spring-fed Hill Country is a land of lay- rivers and lakes. ers, stretching from West Texas The important thing to know east to Austin, the state capi- is that Texas is a lot like its much tal, and from the Colorado River heralded cuisine, with flavors southward to San Antonio. It’s big, bold and satisfying. It is a a region known for an endless place populated with unforgettable canopy of oak and juniper trees, characters and, indeed, a rugged prickly-pear cactus patches, rug- landscape carved with character ged rocks, and sparkling lakes to spare. It doesn’t take long to and rivers. Spring brings an develop an appetite for Texas, a explosion of wildflowers to these craving that will simply keep you distinctive rolling hills, but with coming back for more. a temperate climate you’ll find green here year-round. Guadelupe River The best part? There’s no short- State Park Department. Wildlife and Parks Texas of courtesy Photo age of state parks and recreation The morning music of canyon Guadelupe River State Park features campsites set amid thick vegetation wrens and warblers echoes against areas out of which to base your — which lends privacy — and the adventures, and San Antonio sits at the limestone bluffs that tower liquid appeal of a slow-moving river, the epicenter of the action. above the slow-moving Guadelupe a refreshing retreat on a hot day. Texas boasts several dozen state River — as peaceful a place as parks within a 100-mile radius of you’ll ever find. ultimately flow some 250 miles San Antonio. But to narrow the This is considered one of the before spilling into the Gulf of search, we focus on a convenient most scenic stretches of river in Mexico. Here, it commands atten- loop of Texas state parks just north all of Texas, languid waters lolling tion as the park’s most outstanding of San Antonio and west of Austin. against canyon walls stained by natural feature. Without exception, they are all time and giant bald cypress trees, The park is located about 30 affordable camping options that which guard the riverbank like minutes north of downtown San offer pleasant, mostly uncrowded twisted sentinels. Antonio just off Texas Highway sites and plenty of amenities. A It’s also one of the state’s most 46, which can be reached from I- few are designed for day use only, popular rivers, a spring-fed mar- 35, I-10 or U.S. 281. The entrance but if you base yourself at any of vel that carves a langorous four- is located on Park Road 31 and these parks you’re an easy drive mile path through Guadelupe State well marked. From there, enjoy the from the rest — and even the day- Park, hastened only by a series of pleasant three-mile drive to the park Photo courtesy of Texas Parks and Wildlife Department. Wildlife and Parks Texas of courtesy Photo use parks are well worth the drive. four natural rapids. The stream will gate, which is locked each evening. (far left, inset) Prickly pear cactus and longhorn cattle are sure-fire signs that you’re in 9 Texas. (left) Hiking trails cut through rocky outcroppings, plenty of campsites and a full Scenic Route range of water sports make Inks Lake State Park popular throughout the year. Vol. 3 / No. 2 Bald cypress trees and towering canyon walls frame Guadelupe River as it slides through Guadelupe River State Park. At Inks Lake State Park, it’s hard to find a campsite that doesn’t offer a view of the water. A series of low-water dams creates popular swimming areas along the spring-fed river at Blanco State Park. The entrance fee is $6 per day Area has 40 sites with electric and “It’s nice here, in that you Fishing bobbers and debris dan- per person 13 and older. If you’re water hookups. Sites feature a pic- don’t feel crowded,” said Susan gling high in the branches of near- spending a bit of time in the area, nic table and fire ring or grill at $18 Gaidys, of Houston, who was by giant bald cypress trees remind you might consider investing in a a night or $108 per week. Cedar camping with her husband, Al, in you of just how far the sleepy $60 Texas State Parks Pass, which Sage Camping Area has 37 sites their pop-up trailer. “We’re not big Guadelupe River can surge. grants unlimited entry to over 100 with water hookups, picnic table, RV park people; the state parks There is plenty of parking at state parks and sites for a full year. and fire ring or grill at $14 a night are more for us.” the picnic area, enough to accom- Learn more at www.tpwd.state. or $84 a week. Showers, restrooms “This is only our second time modate the largest diesel pusher, tx.us/parkpass. and dump stations are centrally here,” she added. “We don’t come so think about stopping in even if Here’s a great discovery: An located in each area. For informa- often because it’s so far away from you don’t plan to spend the night. entrance fee paid to any Texas State tion, call (830) 438-2656. everything — but there are times If you’re coming in from the Park will get you into any other During a recent visit, we were when that’s a wonderful thing.” east, consider stopping at the state park for free the same day. impressed to find campsites that Her only caution: “You don’t H.E.B. store located just west Since parks in this area aren’t too felt spacious and private, with want to be here during cicada sea- of U.S. 281 on Texas Highway far apart, that’s a great bargain. thick, leafy barriers — even in son,” she chuckled, adding that the 46. You’ll find an amazing selec- Guadelupe River State Park February. The park is remote, with buzzing drone from the bugs may tion of fresh produce, meats and covers a little over 1,900 acres, a good separation between camp- drive you away. The park is proba- organic foods. including a real gem: the Honey grounds and recreational areas, bly best known for the four miles of Creek State Natural Area. This great for stargazing and solitude. attractive river frontage that frame Blanco State Park protected area is only open the park’s picnic area and play- Amble north on U.S. 281 and on Saturdays — or by spe- ground. Here, you’ll find more you’re truly in the heart of Texas cial arrangement — for day visitors, who stop to enjoy Hill Country — a rolling horizon of guided ecological walks a lunch at water’s edge, a cool- hills and live oak trees, spiny yucca along the shaded banks of ing dip, a hike, or a chance to and sprawling grassland. Here, Honey Creek. Tours empha- dip a line. The river is also a towns thin out and the region’s rug- size the region’s history, popular destination for tubing; ged terrain shines through. flora and fauna. To reach put-in and take-out spots are Tucked in the midst of this is one it, enter through the state provided for float trips. of Texas’ smallest state parks and park gate. The Guadelupe River is one of the more urban offerings in The park also recently deceptively serene. Below our journey. At just over 100 acres, opened a 5.3-mile eques- the tranquil surface lurk deep Blanco State Park is located on the trian trail that is also open to holes and an uneven bottom. southern edge of the tiny town of mountain biking. Be aware that many rivers Blanco — just four blocks from the Camping is offered in two in Texas Hill Country are town square, in fact. areas. Turkey Sink Camping vulnerable to flash floods. If you’re coming from the 10 Anglers test their luck around Devil’s Waterhole Scenic Route at Inks Lake State Park. 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