DELIVERY OF COSMETIC INGREDIENTS TO THE SKIN The skin is a complex organ and, as such, must be gently common to be advised never to put alcohol on skin. Size of the particle in the cosmetic preparation relates usually leads to higher activity. Occlusion (covering the vaccine could be delivered to cellular DNA via a persuaded to allow benecial substances to pass while While it is true that excessive use of highly volatile, dramatically to its ability to penetrate skin and cause an product with plastic or a medical hydrogel) usually liposomal vehicle placed on the skin to immunize a child. still continuing to function properly. The chemical form quickly evaporating alcohols can cause skin dryness, a effect. Some cosmetics containing collagen claim that increases activity. But a word of caution should be given Even more exotic would be placement of an inactive chosen for the active ingredient can dramatically alter its variety of special alcohols act as penetration enhancers they increase the collagen content of skin. Collagen, here: DO NOT try to increase product activity without drug on the skin that, at the time it was needed for Dr. Charlene DeHaven, M.D. Product development is also a signicant cost. The availability to skin cells. For example, vitamin C is an and antimicrobials in cosmetics. Panthenol is, being a very large molecule, is unable to penetrate skin consulting the manufacturer. In medicine, treatment of cancer, could be “turned on” by giving Clinical Director, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE® information explosion extends to all elds of knowledge important skin nutrient that is difcult to deliver inside chemically speaking, also an alcohol; yet panthenol is a even when combined with penetration enhancers, photoexposure (light exposure) may activate a medicine another medicine orally or by skin application. and many advances have occurred in the cosmeceutical skin cells where it is metabolically benecial. Not until form of vitamin B5 and is an essential nutrient for skin although it can be used as a moisturizing agent. Elastin, to achieve its result. Similarly, applying a cosmeceutical Why are some skincare preparations effective and others industry. The most innovative science is expensive, INNOVATIVE SKINCARE®’s ADVANCE ® technology were cell metabolism of fats, proteins and carbohydrates. on the other hand, is a much smaller molecule and, in the morning (with light exposure during the day) The recent advances in medicine and chemistry are are are not? Only some cosmetics are able to make a although the consumer is then able to purchase very the prior limitations of pH and concentration Cetyl alcohol is also an alcohol, yet is a waxy substance when placed on the skin, can penetrate the skin and has rather than at night may make a difference in activity. changing the face of cosmetics. Future developments visible difference in the skin. To the consumer, this is a effective products. requirements for vitamin C overcome, yielding more that is very safe topically and is very useful as a been found later to be incorporated into connective For example, applying iS CLINICAL® ACTIVE SERUM™ in promise to be even more exciting. critically important issue. Recent advances in skincare effective products that were also much more compatible counter-irritant. Tiny skin sections viewed under a tissue bundles. the morning rather than at night causes more noticeable have led to the development of products that improve To understand cosmeceutical delivery and the with skin. microscope show that topical cetyl alcohol causes no improvement in uneven pigment. Micro-needling, skin appearance and quality in weeks, days, or even techniques of placing actives within the skin structures, microscopic skin changes, dryness, or inammation. The induction of collagen synthesis within the skin dermal rollers and even use of some home cleansing hours. some understanding of skin physiology is required. The If a cosmetic ingredient is to arrive at its proper location requires a much more complex approach than simply devices may be designed to increase skin penetration of skin is a complex organ, designed to serve as a barrier in the skin, it must be soluble (dissolvable) in the type of Menthol is another alcohol occurring in nature, derived placing collagen on the skin. Collagen is the main cosmetic ingredients and activity of products. Increased Falling victim to enticing ads and trying products that between the inner biologic environment and the outer tissue where it will reside. Looking at the picture of a from the species Mentha, that gives the mint family a protein that supports skin architecture. Damage to activity, although perhaps thought to be desirable in fall short of their claims, consumers have become environment. Without this protection against the skin cell below, we see skin cells whose borders are typical taste and smell. Menthol functions as a collagen by crosslinking will cause wrinkling. Young, certain situations, can also result in an increased disillusioned with cosmetic ads and often dismiss these outside, the inner organism would be subject to outside composed of lipid soluble (fat dissolvable) membranes. transdermal delivery agent, taking desirable molecules healthy collagen has not been damaged by crosslinking, likelihood of a sensitizing reaction as well as other as false advertising. However, what used to be the temperature variations, solar radiation, and a myriad of The interior of these skin cells is mostly water and to across the skin barrier to where they are used. It is and this skin has good tone and a youthful appearance. possible issues – including systemic penetration beyond science ction future of the cosmetics industry has now toxins and pollutants. In order to deliver benecial remain there, a substance must be dissolvable in water highly lipid soluble (dissolves in oil) and therefore Increasing the skin’s collagen production is critical in the skin surface and into the blood vessels and other become the present. We have entered a new age in ingredients inside the skin cells, this barrier function of (water soluble). This makes delivery of cosmetic crosses the skin barrier. It has been proven to assist the helping to improve aging skin. With aging, the parts of the body. Consultation with a knowledgeable skincare—the age of cosmeceuticals. the skin must be overcome selectively; however, it must ingredients quite complex because water soluble movement of many molecules, including medicines, synthesis of collagen declines along with all other body and trusted skin professional is advised in these not be so altered as to fail in protecting the inner substances will not pass through the border of the cell from the surface of the stratum corneum (outer skin proteins. Collagen production falls about one percent situations. The term “cosmeceutical” refers to the blending of organism nor functioning as a barrier. to the inside where they exert their desired activity. The layer) to the internal layers of the skin. A unique benet each year of life. Increasing collagen production can knowledge from the cosmetics industry and the cosmetic product must therefore be congured with the of menthol is that it enhances absorption of desirable restore a more youthful appearance. Topical delivery is not only an important topic in pharmaceutical industry. Cosmeceuticals are skincare The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, proper amount of oily substances and watery substances molecules without irritating the skin. In fact, menthol cosmeceuticals; it is also very important in products combining ingredients and technology from has layers of keratin derived from attened to pass through cell membranes to the interior of the affects the sensory nerve terminal in the skin in a very Application of alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid pharmaceutical medicine. New methods of drug both disciplines. For the consumer this brings the keratinocytes and is designed to be particularly difcult cell. Furthermore, only certain types of fats with specic desirable way that calms and soothes the nerve. The and lactic acid, can increase skin turnover and increase delivery that supply medicines to their proper site with availability of amazingly effective products. to penetrate. In skincare, however, selective chemical designs will pass through the borders of skin nerve is still able to function because it is not completely collagen production. Some growth factors can more less toxicity and more efcient clinical results have made penetration of active ingredients to various skin depths cells and/or other skin structures. This further illustrates numb or anesthetized. Menthol is such an effective directly increase collagen synthesis. These substances huge strides in recent years. Many more medicines are Any product is likely to be more effective if only the best is desired. There are three main entry sites into the skin: the complexity of effective cosmeceutical design. counter-irritant that it controls skin irritation from encourage the skin itself to make more collagen. now given via skin patches, nasal inhalation, and the ingredients are used. Very few cosmetics are formulated pores, hair follicles, and spaces between cells that capsaicin, which is found in cayenne pepper. Capsaicin eye. Many more of these are in development. Truly with medical-quality ingredients. However, to earn this contain an oil/water uid matrix. An effective cosmetic is a profound skin irritant, but when applied with Sometimes, combining ingredients in a certain way unique drug delivery methods like medicated disposable “pharmaceutical grade” designation, these ingredients must be designed for its benecial substances to menthol in scientic studies, sensory irritation is improves the desired result or otherwise changes their diapers and collagen contact lenses which slowly release are tested to verify purity and effectiveness. Other types penetrate inside skin cells, yet not damage overall skin reduced. individual action. When kojic acid is used in medicine to the cornea have been used. In the future, of ingredients, such as short chain proteins, are usually integrity.