▲ RETAIL: ▲ FINANCIAL: Tory China’s consumers feel Burch the recession’s pinch, opens page 19. her second NEWS: The awards New York season is off: Golden store, Globe nominations ▲ page 4. unveiled, page 4. ▲ FASHION: Matthew Williamson’s big expansion push, page 7. Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • December 12, 2008 • $3.00 Beauty Smooth as Silk Kanebo is launching a new treatment makeup line, Kanebo Colours, that uses water and silk to get moisture-rich, glowing results. The line, which arrives in an extremely limited distribution of 36 doors in February, is expected to generate $1.5 million its fi rst year on shelves. For more, see page 16. Flexing Its Muscle: P&G Sees Big Opportunities in Recession By Molly Prior chairman and chief executive officer renegotiated, and we’d like to get ahead Procter & Gamble Co. — the largest A.G. Lafley told analysts on Thursday, of the curve as commodity and energy advertiser in the world, having spent “This media environment is a big ‘O’ costs come down.” $8.7 billion in fiscal 2008 — has a lump of opportunity for us, because we’re the The gloomy declaration — at least for coal for Madison Avenue and the entire biggest advertiser in a lot of these the media — from the otherwise sunny media industry. countries, and we can just walk in and and upbeat ceo, elicited nervous chatter Standing in the The Times Center, tear up the contract.” among those in the press section at the home of The New York Times, P&G’s He added, “Everything is getting See P&G, Page 10 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY DANILO MATZ DANILO THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2008 WWD.COM Milan Men’s Shows Revert to 4 Days By Emilie Marsh would be allowed to show on Wednesday. “If they want to extend their calendar we MILAN — And they say women can’t make up would be pleased for them, but they’ll have to WWDFRIDAY Beauty their minds. extend it at the end of Paris’ men’s fashion week Men’s fashion week here is to revert back to — not at the beginning,” Pirovano said. FASHION four days in January, after Fendi became the lat- Prada will now show on Sunday, Jan. 19, at 6 6 Pre-fall looks from Nicole Miller and St. John hit est high-profi le brand to cancel its catwalk and p.m., which a spokesman said was the company’s both ends of the spectrum with knits, glitz and France’s chamber of fashion allegedly reneged on traditional slot. chic, tailored looks. a calendar agreement with its Italian counterpart. The Chambre declined to comment, while A Fendi spokeswoman told WWD late Yves Saint Laurent did not return a call. GENERAL Thursday that the Italian luxury house would Milan isn’t the only city changing men’s show forgo its runway show, slated for Jan. 21, the last dates. ENK International has changed the dates of 1 Procter & Gamble Co., the world’s largest advertiser, day of the men’s shows. Instead, Sylvia Fendi The Collective and Blue men’s trade shows in New spending $8.7 billion in 2008, has a lump of coal will present the label’s men’s line by private York to Sunday, Jan. 18 to Tuesday, Jan. 20. The for Madison Avenue and the media. appointment in Rome during the last week of shows were previously slated to run Jan. 19 to 21. 4 The red-carpet fashion frenzy kicked off after January. Fendi joins Marni and Valentino on a Vendors and retailers agitated for the change, nominations for the Golden Globe Awards were growing list of labels to drop out this season as according to Elyse Kroll, chairman and chief cre- announced at the Beverly Hilton hotel. the economic crisis deepens. ative offi cer of ENK. “It was loud enough that we Meanwhile, tempers fl ared here this week needed to listen. We realized that we needed to be After leaving as Pucci’s creative director, Matthew ▲ 7 when Italy’s Camera della Moda learned that Yves open that Sunday when the preponderance of re- Williamson was hoping to downshift, but instead Saint Laurent would maintain its traditional off- tailers would be here shopping,” she explained. his business is going full throttle. calendar event Jan. 21 — with Camera boss Mario The Collective and Blue have historically Economic challenges continued to drag down Boselli even labeling the Chambre Syndicale opened on a Sunday, but ENK had pushed back 18 “dirty players,” according to news reports. the date this season due to the unusually late imports of apparel and textiles to the U.S., fueling Camera della Moda general manager Giulia start of the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence, a trend that has dogged the industry all year. Pirovano softened that reproach Thursday, tell- which is running Jan. 13 to 16. That gives ven- 19 China’s consumers are starting to feel skittish as ing WWD the Chambre Syndicale had gone “a dors showing there only 36 hours to pack up, fl y the country’s industrial production slows and the bit outside” an agreement made in October that to New York and set up. job market starts to shrink. Milan would extend fashion week by one day to ENK’s new dates mean its two shows will run fi ve (meaning buyers who traditionally skipped concurrently with Project New York, the other 22 Inditex, which runs the Zara chain, saw net off to Paris early Wednesday would have to post- major men’s show. However, the trade shows are A Matthew Williamson income in the third quarter advance 1 percent to pone their fl ights if they wanted to catch Prada directly confl icting this season with the men’s look for spring. $567.5 million, below most analysts’ estimates. as well as Fendi.) fall ’09 runway presentations in Milan. Classifi ed Advertisements.................................................................................................23 However, due to the number of cancellations, “It’s frustrating as a fashion director be- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Pirovano said Milan would revert to four days — cause you want to see everything,” noted [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. but just this once. She added the two organizing Kevin Harter, vice president of fashion di- bodies had reached a new agreement Thursday, rection for men’s, home and young world at WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. which, come the next round of men’s fashion Bloomingdale’s. “But we have a great team VOLUME 196, NO. 124. 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