THE FUTURE OF LUXURY ITAA Monograph #12 2018 EDITORS: Jana M. Hawley, University of North Texas Nancy Cassill, North Carolina State University Kristie McGowan, North Carolina State University 1 2 THE FUTURE OF LUXURY TABLE OF CONTENTS ABOUT The Future of Luxury MONOGRAPH .....................................PAGE 4 CHAPTER ONE ...................................................................................PAGE 8 LUXURY THROUGHOUT HISTORY: AN EVALUATION OF THE INDUSTRY CHAPTER TWO .................................................................................................. PAGE 16 EMBRACING THE FUTURE OF LUXURY PRODUCTS THROUGH PRODUCT INNOVATION, QUALITY CRAFTSMANSHIP, PRODUCT INTEGRITY, AND DESIGNER TRAINING CHAPTER THREE ............................................................................................... PAGE 28 SUSTAINABLE EXCLUSIVITY FOR THE GLOBAL MARKETPLACE CHAPTER FOUR................................................................................................. PAGE 38 AN OVERVIEW OF THE MILLENNIAL LUXURY MARKET AND IMPLICATIONS FOR LUXURY BRANDS CHAPTER FIVE ................................................................................................... PAGE 47 THE INFLUENCE OF SPORT PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS ON LUXURY GOODS CHAPTER SIX ..................................................................................................... PAGE 59 THE FUTURE OF LUXURY: CASE STUDIES OF THREE PROFESSIONAL WOMEN’S EXPERIENCES WITH DESIGNER FASHION CHAPTER SEVEN............................................................................................... PAGE 72 EVALUATING EQUITY IN ARTISAN/DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS FOR LUXURY GOODS CHAPTER EIGHT .......................................................................... PAGE 82 A WINDOW OF OPPORTUNITY FOR TRADITIONAL CRAFT ARTISANS: A NEW GENRE OF LUXURY ITAA Monograph #12: The Future of Luxury. Available www.itaaonline.org 3 IN CLOSING ....................................................................................................... PAGE 93 ABOUT THE AUTHORS ...................................................................................... PAGE 94 ABOUT THE EDITORS ........................................................................................ PAGE 97 ITAA Monograph #12: The Future of Luxury. Available www.itaaonline.org 4 ABOUT THE FUTURE OF LUXURY MONOGRAPH THE FUTURE OF LUXURY Nancy Cassill North Carolina State University Kristie McGowan North Carolina State University Jana Hawley University of North Texas The $1.15 trillion luxury industry has experienced unprecedented growth and change over the last decade. Comprised of three sectors: personal (apparel, footwear, accessories), transportation (automotive, marine, personal aircraft), and experiential (home, furniture, hospitality, art, sports management), the luxury industry is diverse. Textiles play a significant role across all sectors of luxury. Luxury is an industry historically built with a focus on rarity, excellence, expensiveness, and timelessness. However, the focus is now shifting to factors that have until recently been on the periphery: authenticity, uniqueness, pleasurable and experience. This shifting focus also comes a change in the luxury consumer, which is growing beyond the traditional affluent market. In the last decade a “new normal” (D’Arpizio, Levato, Zito, and Motgolfier, 2015, p. 5) has emerged where luxury companies must pay attention to a multitude of changes in the marketplace that impact who their target customer is and how they will produce products and services. These changes are being driven by a variety of circumstances, most notably the digital revolution. Digital is making an industry that was once financially and physically out of reach accessible, not only in products and services, but also in the form of a changing end consumer and associated preferences. Key consulting firms (e.g., Boston Consulting Group, Bain, McKinsey, Altagamma, The Luxury Institute, plus others) are now closely examining luxury marketplace dynamics. The changes in the luxury industry require a new approach to thinking about, servicing and experiencing the luxury industry. The 2017 ITAA seminar session, The Future of Luxury, was designed to inspire a cross- disciplinary and critical discussion on this very topic. Proposals selected for this session, based on a call to the ITAA membership for participation, resulted in ten (10) proposals representing a variety of topics, with geographic representation of members interested in this important topic. During the session, research themes and strategies were explored using a Visible Thinking technique and exercises from Project Zero formed at Harvard Graduate School of Education. Project Zero uses observable representation that documents and supports the development of the group’s ongoing thoughts, questions, reasons and reflections. The Project Zero method encourages multiple intelligences, visible learning, and artful thinking (Tishman and Palmer, 20015). ITAA Monograph #12: The Future of Luxury. Available www.itaaonline.org 5 A total of 56 people participated in the session and worked together to identify and explore ideas that unfolded during the 2017 ITAA seminar session. Participants worked in breakout groups to capture their ideas on a selected topic and write them on visible thinking roadmaps, resulting in the papers for this The Future of Luxury monograph. The goal was to capture new knowledge, skill sets and untapped markets for key luxury products to prepare future leaders in the global luxury industry, the future of which is vast and highly opportunistic. Photo 1-5. Over 50 ITAA members participated in the Future of Luxury discussion on November 17, 2017. Topics explored during the working session of the seminar resulted in visual thinking posters on: 1. The Heritage/History of the Luxury Industry and Brands 2. Luxury and the Global Economy/Markets 3. Luxury Culture, Design and Codes 4. Luxury Brand Development 5. Luxury and Sustainability 6. Technology and Digital’s Impact on Luxury ITAA Monograph #12: The Future of Luxury. Available www.itaaonline.org 6 Photos 6-12. Visual Thinking Maps From the ITAA Session (November 2017) on a Variety of Luxury Related Topics ITAA Monograph #12: The Future of Luxury. Available www.itaaonline.org 7 Following the 2017 ITAA Conference, a call for white papers was sent out to participants to further develop and explore ideas discussed during the working session. In total, nine papers were submitted on topics including: 1. Luxury throughout history 2. Embracing the Future of Luxury Products Through Product Innovation 3. Luxury 3 Women 4. Luxury Fashion in the Era of Technology 5. Luxury Throughout History - The Evaluation of the Industry 6. Millennials and Luxury 7. Artisan Luxury 8. The Influence of Sports Performance on Luxury 9. Marketing Crafts from Developing Countries 10. Luxury Markers The diversity of these papers represent the luxury industry of today and reflect the characteristics that are increasing in importance in this day and age. Luxury is no longer easily defined or characterized, but rather it is fluid, evolving and dependent upon the individual from whom it is perceived. SPECIAL ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank the Philosophical Mission committee for accepting the Future of Luxury as a seminar session at the 2017 ITAA meeting in St. Petersburg, Florida. We give special thanks to scholars at the Harvard Graduate School of Education who’s Project Zero and Visible Thinking techniques inspired the seminar session. We want to thank all the attendees for their active participation in the session. As discussed in chapter 1, the session resulted in several visual depictions of thoughts and ideas. All attendees were invited to submit concept papers for this monograph. Ten peer-reviewed papers are the result of the process. A special thank you to peer reviewers for their timely and thorough review of the submissions. Finally, we want to thank the authors who submitted papers and made this monograph possible. Monograph Authors: Laurie Apple, Leigh Southward & Marianne Bickle Marilyn Delong & Barbara Heinemann Lorynn Divita Jana Hawley Iva Jestratijevic & Nancy Rudd Ashley Kubley & Patricia Warrington Mary Simpson Susan Sokolowski ITAA Monograph #12: The Future of Luxury. Available www.itaaonline.org 8 CHAPTER ONE LUXURY THROUGHOUT HISTORY: AN EVALUATION OF THE INDUSTRY Laurie Apple University of Arkansas Leigh Southward University of Arkansas Marianne Bickle University of South Carolina Keywords: luxury, branding, conglomerates Human beings have always had dualistic nature. This nature is to differentiate from but, also be part of a group. Fashion is one method in which differentiates social classes, especially luxury fashion. Fashion for those in a higher class is never the same as for those in the lower classes (Simmel, 1957). Fashion for upper class has always been driven by the idea of conspicuous consumption. This idea is brought about by the purchase of products that are for the sole purpose of being conspicuous in their leisure (Veblen, 1912). What better method to show wealth than to purchase products that one does not need, but rather wants for setting themselves apart from others. Luxury Defined Luxury has been identified as “something adding to pleasure or comfort but, not absolutely necessary,” (Merriam-Webster, 2018). The first known use of the term luxury was around the 14th century, when the experimentation of clothing started. During the middle ages,