PLANT FORWARD The QSR-CIA Plant- Forward Fast Casual Watch List As the plant-forward food movement flourishes, these are the fast-casual concepts taking it mainstream. BY NICOLE DUNCAN 56 MAY 2019 | QSR | www.qsrmagazine.com PLANT FORWARD he limited-service restaurant industry is known for its fast-paced evolution and fads that come and go. Some trends, though, T have lasting power, and none represent a sea change quite like the shift toward plant- forward eating, which has evolved from a fringe category to an industry craze shaping the future of foodservice. The movement carries a sense of urgency, as the world faces a triple threat of increased food scarcity, nutrition- based health epidemics, and envi- ronmental degradation. A recent report by the EAT-Lancet Commis- sion puts forth a plan to address all three of these issues and sustainably BETTINA STERN (RIGHT) AND SUZANNE SIMON feed an estimated global population of RECENTLY OPENED THE SECOND LOCATION OF 10 billion by 2050. While the approach is CHAIA TACOS, WHICH SERVES 100 PERCENT multifaceted, it all begins with food, namely VEGETARIAN, NUT-FREE a shift to diets and production rooted in veg- FARE. etables, fruits, whole grains, and plant proteins. Through educational resources and thought leadership, The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is helping to define the plant-forward movement for the restaurant industry; its events, including the Global Plant- Forward Culinary Summit (May 1–3 in Napa, California) and Menus of Change COS (2) (June 18–20 in Hyde Park, New York) TA provide a framework upon which the CHAIA industry can build a more plant-friendly future. And QSR is thrilled to partner with the CIA in that endeavor, particularly as it CHAIA TACOS relates to the fast-casual industry. After all, HQ: Washington, D.C. UNITS: 2 fast casual is the perfect meeting point of culinary innovation and scalable op- erations, and it has the power to bring ith the possible exception of burgers, few categories are as plant-forward meals to the masses. beloved in the fast-casual space as tacos. The versatile carrier In this first-ever QSR-CIA Plant- Whas moved far beyond its Mexican roots to cradle everything Forward Fast Casual Watch List, we set from Korean bulgogi to chicken tikka masala. But despite this out- out to curate a catalog of fast-casual players pouring of innovation and affection, tacos have remained largely a that are blossoming alongside the plant-forward carnivore’s delight. movement. Some are exclusively vegan, while That’s not the case at Chaia Tacos, where the tacos are the proverbial others include animal products on their menus. meat of the menu; all dishes are vegetarian, and all but one item—the A few specialize in fusion bowls, and others Creamy Kale and Potato taco—can be made vegan. The restaurant is re-imagine fast-food classics. What they all also entirely nut-free, and the only gluten-containing item is the craft do, no matter their size, home base, or cuisine, beer on tap. is make plants the stars of their menus, not just “All of those [attributes] make it easy to come if you have dietary relegating them to a supporting role. (See restrictions, but we don’t think of ourselves as a dietary-restriction the sidebar on page 66 for our approach place. We just hit those modes,” says Bettina Stern, who cofounded the to selecting brands for the Watch List.) concept with Suzanne Simon in 2015. “We’re making it easier to have We think these brands have the those yummy, delicious, healthier, more sustainable menu items at the potential to redefine plant-forward eating ready. … They are the most luxurious item on the plate.” for the future. After all, the plant-forward At a glance, Chaia’s menu could be easily mistaken for that of a more upscale, sit-down establishment. Seasonal, locally sourced vegeta- movement may have sprouted from a seed AR into a sapling, but it’s still got a long way bles reveal their diverse nature, whether hearty in tacos like the Braised to grow. Mushroom, or refreshing as in the Citrus-Roasted Beets taco or the Sau- téed Green Cabbage taco with watermelon relish. Aside from tacos, ISTOCKPHOTO ADEHOID / www.qsrmagazine.com | QSR | MAY 2019 57 PLANT FORWARD The PLANT Glossary PLANT-BASED: Ingredients and foods originating from produce, whole grains, beans and other legumes, nuts and seeds, herbs and spices, and soy. PLANT-FORWARD: A style of cooking and eating that emphasizes and celebrates—but is CHAIA TACOS (3) not limited to—plant-based foods. THE ORIGINAL CHAIA TACOS IN D.C.’S GEORGETOWN NEIGHBORHOOD SERVED BEER AND WINE, WHILE THE RECENTLY OPENED, LARGER LOCATION HAS ADDED CRAFT COCKTAILS. the menu includes a Roasted Celery Root nificant upgrade in Chaia’s beverage Tlayuda entrée (black beans, feta, pick- program. While craft beer and wine were led apple, and pipián atop a duo of crisped mainstays at the original, the new spot VEGAN: tostados) and a Carrot Kohlrabi Slaw with serves a signature margarita, as well as an Dishes or diet free of animal-based sweet and spicy vinaigrette, jalapeño, and Apple Shrub Toddy and Ruby Paloma (mez- ingredients and byproducts. Also fresh herbs. cal, grapefruit, lime, and ginger agave). refers to individuals who follow such Given such enticing options, it’s no Up next, Chaia has locked down a deal a diet. wonder that omnivores comprise a solid for a kiosk in an upcoming food hall right 80 percent of Chaia’s patronage, by Stern’s in the heart of D.C. —a throwback of sorts estimation. That widespread popularity to its early days at the farmers market. proves the brand need not proselytize the Stern would like to take the brand inherent virtue of veggies to win a loyal fol- nationwide but is still wrestling with what VEGETARIAN: lowing—something that Stern and Simon, that expansion plan would look like. The Similar to vegan but may include both working mothers, can appreciate. founders have taken an especially careful foods like eggs, dairy, and honey. Also “We’re just putting vegetables on your approach to their business, leading Stern refers to individuals who follow such plate. We’re making them really delicious to question whether it could ever work in a a diet. and hoping that they’ll convert those veg- franchise model. gie-scared people who don’t know how to Nevertheless, she sees potential for cook vegetables at their yummiest,” Stern a concept like Chaia even in a market as says. “But we’re definitely not trying to tell pricey as New York City or one as saturated you what to do.” in vegetarian fare as California. FLEXITARIAN: The two spent years serving veggie “I think our concept would go over Essentially the same as plant-for- tacos at a D.C.-area farmers market before really well there, because you’ve already ward, where vegetarian and vegan opening their first brick-and-mortar Chaia got people who are eating a plant-forward meals alternate with the occasional in Georgetown. This January, store No. 2 diet. … The only concern about going to (and optional) inclusion of fish, poul- made its debut in a space about twice the California—the veggie-and-fruit basket try, and/or meat. size of the original; Stern hopes the bright of the country—is that there is definitely atmosphere and extra room encourage more competition,” Stern says. “But I don’t guests to linger. believe there is anybody doing what we The second location also marks a sig- are doing.” *SOURCE: MENUS OF CHANGE, THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA* ISTOCKPHOTO: JULYNXA/ / LUSHIK / ILYALIREN MARINAUA / OLEKSIIK 58 MAY 2019 | QSR | www.qsrmagazine.com PLANT FORWARD Little Beet HQ: New York UNITS: 10 Flower This New York City–based concept used recipes Child from chef and cofounder Franklin Becker as a jump- HQ: Phoenix UNITS: 19 ( ) ing-off point for its menu of gluten- and “guiltin”- Flower Child entered the din- free fare. The vegetarian and vegan options are a ing scene in 2014 with some step above the competition; think BBQ Jackfruit, serious firepower. Not only Sesame Avocado with yuzu vinaigrette, spirulina- is it under the auspices of studded rice, and turmeric almonds. acclaimed restaurateur Sam MULBERRY & VINE Fox, but it also benefited from the culinary blueprint of for- mer sister brand, True Food Mulberry & Vine HQ: Houston UNITS: 86 HQ: New York UNITS: 5 Salata Kitchen. In that same spirit, While Salata’s build-your-own menu includes The plant-forward scene is alive and well in the the fast casual’s menu fol- chicken, seafood, and cheese, the vast majority is Big Apple thanks to innovative concepts like Mul- lows the anti-inflammatory plant-based, with a wide variety of veggies, lettuces, berry & Vine, which welcomes consumers of all diet food pyramid, which empha- fruits, nuts, and alternative proteins. Already this stripes. The veg-heavy plates and bowls are packed sizes vegetables, legumes, year the brand has debuted a new store prototype with veggies dressed in global flavors, from lemony and whole grains over animal and hired its first-ever development officer, signal- Shaved Brussels with fennel and dates to Sesame products. For more on Flower ing more growth ahead. Scallion Tofu and Miso-Maple Acorn Squash. Child, turn to Page 39. CAFÉ YUMM! HQ: Eugene, Oregon UNITS: 23 f a customer asks whether Café Yumm! serves animal proteins, the answer may Ivery well be, “No, ma’am.’” Or at least that’s the pun cofounder Mark Beau- champ will answer with, “ma’am” in this case being short for “mammals.” The Pacific Northwest chain does have poul- try on the menu, but it’s hardly the focus.