THIS SIDE OF THES GOLDEN Yerebatan Cistern 44 Spiritual brothers: The HORN: THE OLD TOWN AND Cagaloglu Hamam 46 Ecumenical Patriarchate EYUP 8 Nuruosmaniye Mosque 48 of Constantinople 84 Topkapi Palace 10 Grand Bazaar 50 Fethiye Mosque (Pamma- The Power and the Glory Knotted or woven: The Turkish karistos Church) 86 of the Ottoman Rulers: art of rug-making 52 Chora Church 88 Inside the Treasury 12 Book Bazaar 54 Theodosian City Wall 90 The World behind the Veil: Traditional handicrafts: Eyiip Sultan Mosque 92 Life in the Harem 14 Gold and silver jewelry 56 Santralistanbul Center of Hagia Eirene 16 Beyazit Mosque 58 Art and Culture 94 Archaeological Museum 18 Siileymaniye Mosque 60 Fountain of Sultan Ahmed 20 Rustem Pa§a Mosque 64 BEYOND THE GOLDEN Hagia Sophia 22 Egyptian Bazaar HORN:THE NEWTOWN Constantine the Great 26 (Spice Bazaar) 66 AND THE EUROPEAN SIDE Sultan Ahmed Mosque Yeni Mosque, OF THE BOSPHORUS 96 (Blue Mosque) 28 Hiinkar Kasri 68 Karakoy (Galata), Tophane 98 Arasta Bazaar 32 Port of Eminonii 70 Jewish life under the The Great Palace of the Galata Bridge 72 Crescent Moon 100 Byzantine Emperors, Myths and legends: The Istanbul Modern Museum 102 Mosaic Museum 34 story(ies) surrounding Shooting stars above the Istanbul's Traditional the Golden Horn 74 gilded cage of art: Wooden Houses and Sirkeci train station 76 Istanbul Biennal 104 the Ravages of Time 36 $ehzade Mosque Kilig Ali Pa§a Mosque, The Hippodrome 38 (Prince's Mosque) 78 Nusretiye Mosque 106 Sokollu Mehmet Pa§a Valens Aqueduct 80 Galata Tower 108 Mosque 40 Fatih Mosque Young and easy-going: Kii^uk Ayasofya Mosque (The (Conqueror's Mosque) 82 Nightlife in Istanbul 110 Little Hagia Sophia) 42 6 Istanbul http://d-nb.info/1011121921 Galata Mevlevihanesi Arnavutkoy, Bebek 144 HOTELS 196 Museum 112 "Valis": traditional wooden Tips for special hotels 196 Tiinel, Istiklal Caddesi 114 villas on the Bosphorus 146 Top hotels 198 Strong and dark: Rumeli Hisari 148 Turkish coffee and tea 116 Fatih Sultan Mehmet MAJOR MUSEUMS 200 Nevizade Sokak, Bridge (Second Topkapi Palace Museum 202 (Jigek Passage 118 Bosphorus Bridge) 150 Archaeological Museum 206 A hotel legend cum Modern times: Museum of Turkish "museum hotel": A changing city 152 and Islamic Art 210 Pera Palace 120 Sariyer 154 Pera Museum 214 Pera Museum 122 Sweet Istanbul 124 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CITY WALKS 218 Taksim Square 126 BOSPHORUS: THE ASIAN The most magnificent Atatiirk: PART OF THE CITY 156 buildings 220 "1 am Turkey" 128 Anadolu Kavagi 158 From East to West Dolmabahge Palace 130 Beylerbeyi 160 in the Old Town 224 A passion for football, Mihrimah Mosque From Atatiirk Bulvari or: living on the edge 132 (Iskele Mosque) 162 to the Golden Horn 228 Yildiz Palace, Kiz Kulesi (Maiden's Tower)164 The highlights of Qiragan Palace 134 fakirin Mosque 166 Beyoglu 232 Orhan Pamuk: Haydarpa?a Station 168 "To dig a well The city and the sea: A daytrip APPENDIX 236 with a needle" 136 to the Princes' Islands 170 Index 236 Ortakoy 138 Picture credits 240 Ortakoy Mosque (Buyuk COMPACT ISTANBUL 172 Imprint 240 Mecidiye Mosque) 140 Old Town and Eyiip 174 Betwen tw worlds: Beyoglu, Be$ikta$, Sariyer 180 the Bosphorus 142 The Asian side 192 Istanbul 7 .