Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol. 36, December 2011, pp. 358-365 Pattern engineering and functional clothing Noopur Ananda Department of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production), National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hauz Khas, New Delhi 110 016, India Garments conventionally address the protective, social and aesthetic needs of individuals but they can also be engineered to carry out a range of specific functions. Besides incorporating the features to meet the specific demands of a particular function, the garment must meet the basic requirements of protection and comfort. Pattern engineering for functional clothing involves applying technical, scientific and mathematical knowledge of patterns to modify and develop patterns with the objective of developing a garment which meets the function specific requirements, is comfortable to wear and contributes to maximize the efficiency and performance of the wearer. This paper explores, through examples, use of pattern engineering for functional garments to achieve these stated objectives. It establishes pattern engineering as the first step of planning a purposeful, efficient and aesthetic functional garment. It shows how the techniques of pattern engineering can be used to find solutions to challenges posed by the anthropometry of the human body and how these techniques are used to generate the blueprint of a functional garment incorporating all functional and aesthetic components. Keywords: Darts, Ease allowance, Functional garments, Girth, Pattern engineering 1 Introduction Garment Fit Pattern engineering is the technique of working The desired fit of a garment is defined by the with a 2D medium (i.e. paper or fabric) to develop function for which it is intended. The required fit can blocks (using either body or garment measurements) be obtained by developing a suitable basic block which will assist in making garments to drape a 3D generated from body dimensions. Basic block body to achieve the desired fit with optimum (for garments made from woven fabric) could be utilization of resources. The key components loose fitted, semi fitted or fitted (Table 1). influencing pattern engineering are as follows: Loose fitting blocks are much bigger than the body girth measurements, the extra spacing between the • Body shape vs garment shape wearer and the clothing being the ease. Bigger the • Garment fit ease, looser is the garment. Essentially, loose fitting • Fabric properties garment block is one where the garment is more than • Garment assembling techniques 5” bigger than the body hip and chest girth • End use. measurements. It has a boxy shape, i.e. dimensions at chest, waist and hip are equal, and therefore falls Body Shape vs Garment Shape 1 away from the body (Fig. 2a). Such blocks are used in The shaping in human body is primarily in two the production of shirts, windcheater and rain coat main areas – the side of the body and the depth of the (Fig. 2b). body. The shape on the side of the body is addressed by shaping the side seam of pattern to bring the Semi fitted blocks are shaped closer to the body on garment closer to the body on the side (Fig. 1a). The the side. The blocks have chest and hip girth depth of the body in front is around bust and waist measurement 2- 4” bigger than the body measurement and in back is around shoulder and small of back. while waist girth is 6-8” bigger than the actual waist This shaping is more pronounced in case of women measurement (Fig. 3). body and has to be addressed by folding in the surplus Fitted blocks are required when garment is to be fabric to shape the body contours (Fig. 1b). This made fitted around the body and fullness of the folded fabric is called darts. garment around the body is required to be reduced ________ such as uniforms, swimsuits or action wear, etc. In aE-mail: [email protected] such garments, the shape of the body at the front as ANAND: PATTERN ENGINEERING AND FUNCTIONAL CLOTHING 359 Table 1—Ease allowance required for varying fits in upper bodice blocks Body Loose block Semi fitted Fitted landmark block block Chest +5” and above +2- 4” +2” Waist Not required as +6-8” +2” garment does not have waist shaping Hip +5” above +2- 4” +2-4” Fig. 2—(a) Loose fitting block superimposed on the body, and (b) garments produced using the same Fig. 1—Body shaping on (a) side, and (b) front & back (depth) of the body well as the sides needs to be addressed in the block. The blocks therefore are shaped in the circumference as well as the depth, as shown in Fig. 4. When using Fig. 3—Semi fitted block with (a) side seam shaping, and (b) semi woven fabric in such applications, typically the blocks fitted block superimposed on the garment have chest, waist and hip girth measurement 2-4” bigger than the body measurement. and cross-wise) or 4 way stretch (all directions). Functional garments, where such fabrics are used are Fabric Properties 2 action wear, exercise wear, sportswear and swimwear. Fabric is a key element in fulfilling the desired Fabric which has 18-25% stretch on cross grain function for which the garment is being designed. behaves more or less like the woven fabric hence the Each fabric type has its own unique properties ease specified for woven fabrics (Table 1) is used and characteristics; inputs regarding these are with them. Fabric with stretch of more than 25% and required to develop the pattern in order to achieve the less than 50% on cross grain has moderate stretch and desired comfort, fit and functionality. Properties of the requirement of ease is half of that used for woven the material selected determine the dimensions fabric. In case these fabrics are used to make body of the final block as the behavior and characteristics fitted garment the patterns are developed with actual of the fabrics. body measurements. Such fabrics are used to make For example, while working with knitted fabrics, a tee shirts for sportswear and so on. key fabric characteristic is the “stretch” which can Fabrics with more than 50% stretch may sag on the vary from 18% to 100% or more. Also, the direction body if the stretch is not accounted for. The ease at of stretch is a critical element here, wherein the fabric block girth is significantly reduced depending on the may have one way (cross-wise), 2 way (both length properties of the desired end product and. are smaller INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., DECEMBER 2011 360 Fig. 4—Fitted block superimposed on garment Table 2—Approximate girth reductions allowances (in %) for knitted fabrics having different stretch percentages Body landmark Knitted fabric stretch percentage 18-25% 26-50% 51- 75% 76-100% 4 way stretch Chest girth Ease allowances similar to allowances 0 - 10 - 15 - 20 Waist girth used for woven fabric as indicated 0 - 5 - 7.5 -10 Hip girth in Table 1 0 - 10 - 15 - 20 than the actual body dimensions (negative ease). Such and define the selection of openings and closures, fabrics are used to make tops, shirts, dresses, skirts, trims, seam types and seam finishes for a garment. pull-on pants, shorts and easy jackets with enhanced Such inputs are required at the time of pattern making comfort properties. in order to make provisions for the same. Fabric which has 50% or more stretch in 2 or 4 directions is suitable for making exercise swimwear and End Use action wear (leotards, bodysuits and maillots). The Comfort, coverage and protection are the key measurements are further reduced and are much smaller requirements from any garment. For functional (negative ease) than the actual body dimensions, chest garments, inputs regarding the specific intended end and hip being approx.15-20% smaller and waist being use are required to develop the patterns. In fact, the 7.5-10% smaller than the actual body measurement. entire concept of engineering of standard pattern Table 2 shows the reduction allowances recommended designs revolves around achieving this specific end as per the fabric stretch percentage. The patterns thus usage and governs the pattern engineering techniques developed have been superimposed, as shown in Fig. 5. employed. Reduction is also done in the length direction for bifurcated garments i.e. the crotch point, the waist /hip 2 Manipulation of Standard Blocks for Various level and bottom hem is raised, in garments which can Applications be pulled down using stirrups. Manipulation of standard blocks for various applications is the first step in generating the final Garment Assembling design of a functional garment. We discuss below the The desired functionality of the garment and the use of pattern engineering for manipulations of constraints imposed by function and aesthetics, guide patterns to address the functional needs of the ANAND: PATTERN ENGINEERING AND FUNCTIONAL CLOTHING 361 Fig. 6—Jumpsuit block (a) made by joining the upper and lower body block, (b) pattern modification by addition of ease at critical body parts, and (c) finished garment Fig. 5—Superimposed blocks for knit fabrics having stretch garment. Examples taken for this purpose are some of the common functional garments which we encounter and/or use in our daily lives. 2.1 Work Wear — Coverall 1 Coverall, overall or jump suits are the terms used to refer to a loose-fitting one-piece functional garment that covers or protects the everyday work clothes of Fig. 7—(a) Garment with bi-swing effect, and (b) bi- swing block with additional fabric (shaded) at center back the wearer. Coveralls are designed foremost for the protection of wearer from the paint splashes, grease, the horizontal as well as vertical direction to create welding sparks, fire, water, etc.