VODKA THE ALL-AMERICAN SPIRIT… OR NYET? BY JACK ROBERTIELLO hen Burnett’s, a top ten vodka brand with While the flavor craze churned vodka dozens of flavored versions, underwent a sales madly a decade ago, that tide has re- ceded; unflavored vodka commands 85% redesign last year, those in charge of the brand of all vodka consumed in the U.S., points decided it was time to proclaim front and out Bernadette Knight, Senior Director W center: “Made in America.” of White Spirits for Skyy-owner Campari America: “American-made vodkas are in a strong position. Vodka remains the Is the renaissance of American whis- produced vodkas,” says Michael Sachs, number one spirit consumed in the U.S. key alerting consumers that some pretty Director of Spirits Marketing at E. & J. and the category has shown small but good clear spirits are made here? Perhaps Gallo Winery, whose New Amsterdam consistent year on year growth. Consum- it is social, or political, or even just a re- Vodka debuted in 2011 and is now a top ers are looking for authenticity, quality gional trend? Whatever is behind the seller. “American vodka brands are focus- and provenance, three things that Amer- boomlet, American vodka is suddenly ing on quality of original ingredients and ican-made vodkas, especially Skyy, have considered something worth cheering the care put into production.” been able to deliver on.” about. Thirteen of the top 20 best-selling Brands that have focused on particu- brands are American-made, as are many MADE IN USA = BUILT FOR lar regionial markets have shown that fast-emerging brands. Meanwhile, as the COMPETITION organic growth sometimes works best. For ultra- and super-premium tier of the vod- “American vodkas are in a good position example, a majority of Seagram’s business ka business sags, the price tiers below are as competition among higher-end brands is off-premise and in the West, predomi- filled with growing American brands. leads to price slashing,” says Reid Hafer, nantly California, says Katherine Foley, All in all, a great time to be an Ameri- Senior Brand Manager in charge of Bur- Seagram’s Brand Manager at Infinium can vodka. nett’s and Deep Eddy for Heaven Hill Spirits. (By comparison, Infinium also “American-made vodka trends are the Brands, although she notes competitors sells Crystal Head, which sells globally.) strongest they’ve ever been,” says Frank Pol- in the $10-$15 and $15-$25 tier where Meanwhile, new legal-age consumers are ley, VP of Trade Marketing for Tito’s, now most American vodkas sell are also cut- up for grabs, says Foley: “The growth with second only to Smirnoff in U.S. volume. ting prices. American vodka is spurred by Millennials, “We’re also seeing the expansion of the and this consumer market communicates American-made vodka segment with many CLOCKWISE: Vodka, the ultimate shape-shifting and purchases dominantly through digital spirit, is enjoying an extended spell of Americana. new brand and line extension launches Blood Sweat Tears is crafted in Oregon…in a platforms, particularly social media.” throughout the year. American-made vodka repurposed laundromat. Skyy’s latest flavored is definitely driving growth in the category.” vodka is trendy Cold Brew Coffee. Deep Eddy just opened a new Tasting Room in Austin, Texas. THINKING LOCAL, Vodka being famously fast to market, Smirnoff builds promotions around their Red, GETTING CRAFTY the category has seen a remarkable num- White & Berry every July. BET makes vodka from While talk of “terroir” is usually the turf Minnesota sugar beets. Dixie makes six vodka ber of new brands succeed. “Over the past expressions at their distillery in Charleston, SC. of wine, not vodka, regionality still plays decade, the lines between domestic and New Amsterdam is a top ten vodka, and not even an important role in some vodkas, in- imported vodkas have blurred as Ameri- ten years old. Tito’s Smokin’ Summer promotion creasingly so with craftier producers. No includes a grill giveaway. cans are purchasing more domestically- discussion of regional vodka can get far ALL AMERICAN VODKA without mentioning “Our” Vod- ka—a group of distilleries (dou- bling as bars) in major global cities, each existing precisely to create a namesake vodka for their locale. American outposts include LA, Detroit and New York, with Miami coming soon. Tito’s Handmade continues to be a market leader The project attracted the attention and and the centerpiece of Texas’s burgeoning vodka FLAVORTOWN… scene. Seagram’s Vodka, once a staple nationwide, POPULATION SHIFTING investment of Pernod Ricard. is now concentrated in Western states. One might infer that vodka is the Flavored vodkas have seen better days. new “oil” in Texas, where Tito’s Hand- Heaven Hill Brands’ Reid Hafer says, “Overall, made, having emerged stronger than ever One Vodka from 100% estate-grown oats. consumers have turned away from the whole after a labeling controversy, is now sur- Hangar 1 Vodka, launched in 2002 flavor end of vodka but they do like all-natural rounded by a bevy of Texas-made vodka and made from a mix of grain and wine flavors that are not overly sweet.” Burnett’s brands. Deep Eddy has big plans, having grapes, recently took it one step further “totally rode” the flavor explosion, she says, just opened a brand new Tasting Room to create Hangar 1 Rosé Vodka, which and while the core flavors still sell, with 33 (replete with round-trip transportation blends the straight vodka with a North- variants some are inevitably less appealing. available from downtown Austin). West- ern California rosé wine. What’s behind the less-flavor shift? ern Son and Dripping Springs have added Of course, let’s be realistic: authen- Chalk it up to Americans’ rising health consciousness, which has, ironically, to the local lore, especially with respect to tic vodka can sprout up practically any- prompted a distinct trend among imports, flavors (Western Son’s portfolio includes where; and sometimes the image is as namely the launch of brands that are fresh- prickly pear; Dripping Springs makes one carefully crafted as the spirit. Consider ingredient-driven and wellness-minded from hand-zested Texas oranges). Just “Blood x Sweat x Tears,” made in Oregon brands. To wit, just within the past two years, launched, Frankly Organic, made in Aus- from Pacific Northwest winter wheat and Stoli Crushed jumped out with “real fruit” tin, is certified organic, non-GMO and pure Cascade water. But that’s not all… Pineapple and Ruby Grapefruit expressions; gluten-free—in five all-natural flavors. it’s made in a converted laundromat, Ketel One Botanical brought complex combos Water quite naturally is a favorite “handcrafted with grit and fury,” and its like Peach & Orange Blossom; Smirnoff Zero point of distinction in vodka, as it com- matte black bottle is illustrated with Or- Sugar Infusions was just released in three variants: cucumber and lime, watermelon and prises 60% of the finished liquid. Water is egon landmarks. mint and strawberry and rose; and Absolut is so central to Leaf Vodka that they produce going the real-fruit route with their Strawberry two—one from Rocky Mountain mineral TAKING IT NATIONAL and Apple versions of Absolut Juice. water, the other from Alaskan glaciers. Some American vodkas have used the At the same time, some unusual Ocean Vodka boasts of the high mineral local platform to expand nationally. flavors—such as the fig-flavored Figenza— content of water drawn off the Hawaiian Maybe the best example from Texas is have gained solid footing among mixologists. coast. American Harvest proudly taps wa- Deep Eddy, whose Ruby Red Grape- Pinnacle’s round-shouldered blue bottles ter from “deep beneath the Snake River fruit helped the brand break out. remain an American-made shelf staple. In Plain.” Spring 44, located in Colorado’s Idaho’s 44 North and Dry Fly Wash- California, Charbay distills bold displays the Buckhorn Canyon, is literally named af- ington Wheat Vodka are two more number of extraction days on the front label of their flavored vodkas. ter its water source. in multiple states. The New York Ingredients are another area where metro area has at least two brands small producers can stand apart from the that have thrived regionally: Recipe big distillers. The top-rated American 21 and Voda. vodka at this year’s Ultimate Spirits Com- Recipe 21 was created in 2012 by petition was Boyd & Blair, made from po- Roc House Brands’ owner LiDestri Foods tatoes near Pittsburgh. BET (pronounced as an on-premise-focused brand for local “beet”) is made in Minnesota from sugar distributors to expand their market, says beets (not red beets, so the vodka is still Joe Ragazzo, VP of Sales for Roc House. clear); Comb (Port Chester, NY) is made The 12-flavor brand now distributes in 11 from honey; Clear Creek (Oregon) dis- states. “We have a favorable quality-price tills apples into vodka, while Core (Hud- proposition, with good packaging and taste son Valley, NY) starts with apple cider. In that over-delivers for the price. That got Nevada, Bently Heritage distills Source us into many on-premise accounts in the Thank you for all your help getting us where we are today! TOP ON-PREMISE PROFIT GENERATOR +30.7% 1 Tito’s Lemonade A refreshing summertime cocktail classic that’s easy to make and easy to sip. Mix with fresh squeezed lemonade and garnish with mint if your customers are feelin’ fancy, or keep it simple with your favorite store-bought brand. Source: (1) Nielsen CGA on premise data - market total, US total spirits top 25 spirit brands by $ value, volume 9L EQ, value $, Avg Price 1.5OZ EQ, rolling 52 w/e 08/11/2018 vs YA TR-2545_Beverage Media Group Vodka Issue.indd 1 6/4/19 11:03 AM ALL AMERICAN VODKA well, and now we are moving off-premise, too,” notes Ragazzo.