©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Northern Hungary Includes ¨ Why Go? Hollókő ............ 242 Forested hiking trails, superb wine regions, traditional folk Eger .............. 244 culture and hilltop castle ruins beckon you to what are Tokaj .............. 252 called the Northern Uplands. In a country as flat as a palac- sinta (pancake), these foothills of the Carpathians soar Bereg Region ...... 256 above most of Hungary. After exploring Bükk National Park on foot, why not sample the spectacular red wines of Eger or the honey-sweet whites of Tokaj? As reminders of far too many battles won and lost, ageing Best Places castles and evocative ruins punctuate the landscape. This is to Eat also a land where the Palóc people hold strong in traditional villages such as Hollókő. If you want to experience village ¨ Macok Bistro & Wine Bar life – steeped in folk culture, replete with horse-drawn carts, (p250) dirt roads and tiny wooden churches – the Bereg region in ¨ Toldi Fogadó Restaurant the northeast is the place to go. (p255) ¨ 1552 (p249) Best Places to Sleep When to Go Eger ¨ Hotel Senator Ház (p249) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm ¨ Gróf Degenfeld Castle 30/86 6/150 Hotel (p254) 20/68 ¨ Hollóköves Guesthouses 4/100 (p243) 10/50 ¨ 2/50 Toldi Fogadó (p253) 0/32 ¨ Baráth Vendégház (p258) -10/14 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N Mar & Apr Don’t Jul & Aug Sep & Oct Enjoy miss Easter in Crowded, but this the grape harvest, Hollókő, when is the season for scenery in the hilly everyone dons medieval tourna- areas and autumn their traditional ments at castles colours. finery for Mass. such as Eger’s. 0 50 km 0 25 miles 27 SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA Aggtelek National Slovenské Chop Muka‹eve 3 Nové Mesto E571 Aggtelek Park Sátoraljaújhely E71 Záhony Zemplén 37 BORSOD-ABAÚJ- Dámoc 4 Lónya Hills r UKRAINE ZEMPLÉN Encs Sárospatak Rive E573 Karcsa Mándok Putnok og Edelény r Cigánd Bánréve d Dombrád Ipolytarnóc 26 3 Kazincbarcika 37 Bo Tiszacsermely Kisvárda Berehove Ózd Sajószentpéter SZABOLCS- Tiszatelek Csaroda Sajó River Szerencs Gávavencsellª SZATMÁR- Tákos BEREG Tiszabecs iver Somoskªújfalu 25 Ibrány Tarpa R H i l l s Tokaj Vásárosnamény 22 k Rakamaz Kemecse Demecser Kisar Ipoly ü k Kraszna S Szatmárcseke Salgótarján B 38 Kótaj 4 Székely za R Bükk MISKOLC m Túr iv Szécsény er E573 o Fehérgyarmat Balassagyarmat Kazár 25 National M30 Tiszalök Vaja s 23 Park 3 Tiszavasvári NYÍREGYHÁZA River Hollókª E71 41 Jánkmajtis 21 Bátonyterenye 36 Mátészalka Garbolc Nyékládháza R Recsk 35 Nagykálló 471 iv Ököritófülpös Csengersima Pásztó Tiszaújváros Máriapócs e Eger M3 M3 r 49 NÓGRÁD M Hajdúnánás á 3 Polgár Nyírbátor t r a H ills Újfehértó Csenger Szírak Kékestetª River Mérk 24 Balkány 21 (1014m) Mezªkövesd Hajdúdorog Bátorliget Gyöngyös 35 3 Nyírmihálydi Hajdúhadház M3 E71 Füzesabony Tisza Hajdúböszörmény Carei Budapest 33 471 Nyíradony Hatvan 31 Poroszló (26km) Tiszafüred Balmazújváros M3 E71 HEVES M35 Hajdúsámson Gödöllª Heves Lake Tisza Tiszaörvény Hortobágy 33 DEBRECEN ROMANIA 48 34 Hortobágy Jászberény Jászapáti Kisköre National Park Northern Hungary Highlights 1 Eger (p244) savouring 2 Hollókő (p242) 3 Tokaj (p252) tasting boat-shaped grave markers at the unequalled jewel of the spending the night and the famous ‘wine of kings the village cemetery. northern uplands, celebrated listening to the silence in this and the king of wines’ in this 5 Tákos (p257) Marvelling for its legendary wine, baroque tiny village where folk art and picturesque little town. at the patterns of the architecture and easy-going tradition live on. 4 Szatmárcseke (p258) painted wooden interior in its NORTHER NORTHER NORTHER GARY GARY GARY GARY N N N U U U H H H N N N ts H lig H Hig y R Hunga temperament. trying to crack the code on the ‘peasants’ cathedral’. 241.