TRAVEL | BUDDHIST TRAIL Walking with the BUDDHA Travelling the paths of Dharma from Bodh Gaya to the Himalayas By Charukesi Ramadurai HE WHO IS YET TO COME A statue of Maitreya Buddha at Diskit Monastery, Ladakh monks and nuns. Also known as Upper Dharamsala, the tourist high- lights of Mcleodganj include the Thekchen Choling complex compris- ing the Tsuglagkhang temple, the Namgyal monastery and the Dalai Lama’s private residence. In the valley of Dharamsala, gettyimages the population is mostly Indian. Nonetheless, this place is also home to the Norbulingka Institute, which was created with the specific aim of pre- ark Twain famou- Himalayan—and particularly, serving Tibetan art and culture. With sly said that when Tibetan—school of thought. This is a fascinating museum and active craft it came to religion, not surprising, for India became home workshops, Norbulingka is one of the India was the only to the 14th Dalai Lama in 1959, after Tibetan community’s tenuous links to millionaire; all other he was forced to flee Tibet. And so, its heritage. Mcountries were paupers in compari- in our trek through Buddhism’s glori- Down south, in the plains of son. Even so, Buddhism holds a spe- ous past, it is only fair to begin with Karnataka, lies another major hub cial place in India’s immense spiritual Mcleodganj in Himachal Pradesh. of the Tibetan community in India. wealth. Even today, there are dozens Mcleodganj is home to Tenzin Bylakuppe is home to over 70,000 of Buddhist sites that are scattered Gyatso, the 14th Dalai Lama. This people, nearly 5,000 of them monks across the country. From the fragile small town in the shadow of the and nuns. The beating heart of ruins of Ajanta and Nalanda, to the Dhauladhar Mountains is also effec- Bylakuppe is the Namdroling mon- stunning mountainside monasteries tively home to the Tibetan govern- astery, which was established by of Ladakh and Sikkim, India is truly ment-in-exile, and the spiritual hub of Pema Norbu Rinpoche, and conse- the blessed land where Buddhism was Tibetan Buddhism in India, earning it crated and named by the Dalai Lama. born—and where it still thrives. the moniker of ‘Little Lhasa’. Among Namdroling is home to the impressive MANY FORMS, ONE TRUTH In India, wherever Buddhism the thousands of displaced Tibetans Golden temple with its three gold- The Golden Temple in Namdroling is still practised as a religion and who live here—the Dalai Lama’s fol- plated Buddha statues, as well as the Monastery, Bylakuppe, Karnataka a way of life, most follow the lowers—are hundreds of practising Zangdogpalri temple. aparna nori SEPTEMBER 22, 2014 u INDIA TODAY 00 TRAVEL | BUDDHIST TRAIL alamy THE PAST AS PRESENT A Buddhist monastery near Gangtok, Sikkim As the birthplace of Buddhism, India is also home to a number of sites that mark the beginnings of the faith. A list of these sites would include both those associated with Gautama Buddha’s life, and those constructed after his parinirvana, to preserve and spread his teachings. It is said that over two-and-a-half millennia ago, Prince Siddhartha Easily reachable via a day trip was blessed by Guru Padmasambhava Gautama sat under a Bodhi tree from the major tourist destinations of himself, who found his way here dur- and attained enlightenment, thus Mysore and Coorg, Bylakuppe wel- ing his travels in the 8th century. becoming the wise and compassion- comes both Indian and international The sprawling, mid-18th century ate Gautama Buddha. It is only to be travellers. monastery at Rumtek attained promi- expected, then, that Bodh Gaya would Another eminent site of Tibetan nence as the spiritual seat (in exile) of be one of the premier Buddhist pil- Buddhism in India is Ladakh (from the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe grimage destinations in India, attract- the word ‘La-Dags’ or ‘Land of Dorje, who fled Tibet around the same ing visitors from all over the world. high mountain passes’). Although time as the Dalai Lama. Now known Tourists and pilgrims on this quest Ladakh is technically part of Jammu as the Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre, find their journey’s end at the UNESCO & Kashmir, it is really a world of its this is a popular pilgrimage and tour- world heritage Mahabodhi temple. own, far removed from the main state ism destination, close to Gangtok. In front of the temple grows a peepal in terms of both physical access and The Pemayangtse monastery, tree that the faithful venerate as a spiritual makeup. near Pelling in West Sikkim, pre- descendant of the original Bodhi tree Ladakhi Buddhists also follow the dates Rumtek, and has a sublime under which the troubled Siddhartha Yellow Hat (Gelugpa) order of Tibetan hilltop location, with clear views of attained his enlightenment. Buddhism, and venerate the Dalai the Khanchendzonga range. Further Sarnath, close to Varanasi, is Lama as their spiritual leader. north, at an altitude of over 17,000 famously known as the spot where This high altitude desert is home feet, is Gurudongmar lake. Apart from the Buddha preached his first sermon. to some of India’s most spectacu- being compellingly picturesque, the In the 3rd century BC, the Mauryan lar monasteries, from the touristy lake is deemed sacred, and was also Emperor Ashoka, who had converted Thiksey (modelled after Tibet’s great consecrated by Guru Padmasambhava to the non-violent path that Buddha Potala Palace) to isolatedPhugtal, as himself. Apart from the centuries- revealed, caused several stupas and well as the 11th century Lamayuru, old temples and monasteries in this monasteries to be constructed in this Ladakh’s oldest monastery. The best place, Sikkim also boasts the tallest place, to commemorate the event. time to visit Ladakh is during one of statue of Guru Padmasambhava in The highlight for travellers to the monastery festivals, when monks the world. This 138-foot-tall statue, Sarnath is undoubtedly the cylindri- perform colourful masked dances and atop Samdruptse hill near Namchi in cal Dhamekh Stupa, mounted on the monastery’s most precious than- the southern part of the state, was a circular base that is carved with gka paintings are unveiled (the Hemis opened to visitors in 2004. intricate geometric and floral pat- festival, usually held in late June/early If it is these seats of Himalayan terns. Perhaps more recognisably, the July is a favourite for tourists). Tibetan Buddhism that are important famous column topped by four lions After Ladakh, it is Sikkim that is for the present and future of this faith, facing the cardinal directions—which home to the greatest concentration of then it is important to also acknowl- is the inspiration for India’s official prominent Buddhist monasteries in edge the sites which provide a glimpse emblem—is preserved inside the India. Locals believe that this region into India’s rich Buddhist heritage. Sarnath Archaeological Museum too. 50 INDIA TODAY u JUNE 20, 2016 bhasim TRAVEL | BUDDHIST TRAIL aneesh alamy An Eightfold 3 Path 1 gettyimages 1. Ajanta-Ellora 2. Tawang Monastery, Caves, Maharashtra Arunachal Pradesh Ellora comprises 34 The gompa (monastery) at Buddhist, Hindu and Jain Tawang is considered to be cave temples built between the largest in India. Like the 6th and 10th century CE. many other Buddhist mon- Ajanta is believed to be asteries, it has a superb hill- much older, the earliest from top location and is home to 2nd century BCE more than 450 monks 2 4 5 3. Nagarjunakonda, Andhra Pradesh This site found prominence thanks to Acharya Nagarjuna in the 2nd century CE. Artefacts from the original site have been reassembled in a museum on an island in the manmade Nagarjunsagar lake 4. Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh The Sanchi Mahastupa is believed to be the oldest surviving stone structure in India. It was built by Emperor Ashoka, in the 3rd century BCE, to preserve the relics of the Buddha and his main followers pankaj tiWari alamy 6 5. Nalanda University, Bihar The world’s oldest university (dating back to the 5th century), Nalanda was always a great seat of learning, even during the life- time of Gautama Buddha 6. Tabo Monastery, Himachal Pradesh Nestled in the craggy mountains at Spiti in Himachal Pradesh, and established more than a milennium ago, Tabo is the oldest continu- ously functioning Buddhist monastery in India 8. Ratnagiri-Udaygiri- Lalitgiri, Odisha 7. Mahaparinirvana Temple, Uttar Pradesh Excavations at these three ancient Kushinagar is where the Buddha attained mahaparinirvana. Buddhist sites close to Cuttack The Buddha Marg contains many stupas commemorating is have revealed the existence of life and death, including the Mahaparinirvana temple massive monastic settlements. The region was once a hub for Mahayana Buddhism and is rich in rock-cut sculptures and elegantly carved stupas.