South Dakota State University Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange Electronic Theses and Dissertations 1978 Clothing of Pioneer Women of Dakota Territory, 1861-1889 Joyce Marie Larson Follow this and additional works at: https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/etd Part of the Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, and the Interior Design Commons Recommended Citation Larson, Joyce Marie, "Clothing of Pioneer Women of Dakota Territory, 1861-1889" (1978). Electronic Theses and Dissertations. 5565. https://openprairie.sdstate.edu/etd/5565 This Thesis - Open Access is brought to you for free and open access by Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. It has been accepted for inclusion in Electronic Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Open PRAIRIE: Open Public Research Access Institutional Repository and Information Exchange. For more information, please contact [email protected]. CWTHIFG OF PIONEER WOMEN OF DAKOTA TERRI'IORY, 1861-1889 BY JOYCE MARIE LARSON A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree Haster of Science, Najor in Textiles, Clothing and Interior Design, South Dakota State University 1978 CLO'IHING OF PIONEER WOHEU OF DAKOTA TERRITORY, 1861-1889 This thesis is approved as a creditable and independent investigation by a candidate for the degree, Master of Science, and is acceptable for meeting the thesis requirements for this degree. Acceptance of this thesis does not imply that the conclusions reached by the candidate are necessarily the conclusions of the major department. Merlene Lyman� Thlsis Adviser Date Ardyce Gilbffet, Dean Date College of �ome Economics ACKNOWLEDGEr1ENTS The author wishes to express her warm and sincere appre­ ciation to the entire Textiles, Clothing and Interior Design staff for their assistance and cooperation during this research. Appreciation is also expressed for the advice and g�idance of Dr. Merlene Lyman, Head_of Textiles, Clothing and Interior Design; to Dr. Hildeg�d Johnson, Department of Home Economics Education, for her guidance and assistance; to Dr. Ruth Alexander, Department of English, for her encouragement ��d assistance in locating primary sources for this study; and to Nancy Neukom, Department of Textiles, Clothing and Interior Design, for her personal support and assistance. A warm and sincere appreciation is given to my parents, Alfred and Doris Larson, for their encouragement and support. A special indebtedness is also expressed to my fiance, Dave Yexley, for his cooperation and pe�sonal support while this study was in progress. JML TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page I. INTRODUCTION .. • • • 0 • . 1 Statement of the Problem •••••••• • •••• 2 Definition of Terms • • • • • • • • • • • J Limitations of the Study • • • • • • - • • ., • • • • • • 4 Assumptions • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 5 Sources of Data • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 5 Extant garments • • • • • • • • • • ., ., • • • • · • • 6 Photographs • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 6 De>cu.men ts • • • • • • • . • • • • • • • • • • • • 7 Secondary sources . ·7 II. REVIEW OF 'ffiE LITERATURE. 9 Nineteenth Century • • • • • • • • • • • • 9 History of Dakota Territory • • • • • • • • • • • 11 Life Style of Dakota Women • • • • • • • • • • • • lJ Significance of Tr_ansportation in Dakota Territory • • 14 Contribution of the Sewing Machine • • . • • • • • 16 Contribution of Fashion Publications . • • • • • • 18 Development of Commercial Patterns . • • • • • • • 19 Ladies' Fashions, 1850-1900 • . • • • • • • • • • • • 20 Ladies' Fashion Silhouettes, 1860-1890 • • • • • • 34 Summary • . • • • • • • • • • • • • . • • • • • • . • !I,() HETHODS OF PROCEDUR� . 43 Introduction • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • . 43 Definition of the Population ••••••• . 43 Instruments • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 44 Development of Interview Format 46 . Validity . 47 Data Collection • • • • • • • • • • 48 Analysis of th0 Data . • ••••••• 51 Summary • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • . 52 .Chapter Page IV. PRESENTATION AlID ANALYSIS OF THE DATA . 53 Introduction • • • • • • • • • . .53 Seamstresses and Dressmakers ••••••••••••• .53 Dressmaking Techniques •••••••••••••••• 53 Clothing Supplies • • • • • • • • •••••••• 63 Producing Fabric Goods • • • • • • • • • • • • • 63 Acquiring Supplies through a Local Store • • • 64 Purchasing Supplies through a Peddler ••••••• 66 Clothing Patterns • • • • • • • • • • • • • 66 Clothing Resources ••••••••••••••• ••• 67 Fashion Publications and Women's Magazines . 67 Fashion Instigators • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 69 Women's Clothing • • • • . • • • • • • • • • • • 69 Everyday A ppare 1 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 7q Better Apparel • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 70 Outdoor Attire • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 85 Fashion Silhouettes of Dakota Women • • • • • 93 Clothing Accessories • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 99 V. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS • 0 • • • • • $ • • • • • 105 BIBLIOGRAPHY . • • 107 APPENDIXES A. OOUTH DAKOTA "EAST-RIVER" MUSE:JNS AND HIS'IORICAL COLLECTIONS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • . 114 B. LETTER OF INQUIRY . 116 ,, v. CHECKLIST e e e e e a e e e e e e e e e O O e 8 e • e e 118 D. RELEASE FORM FOR INTERVIEWS . 120 E. QUESTIONNAIRE • • • • • • • • • • 0 • • • • • • • • • • 122 F. CHECK SHEET FOR DATIKG DAY DRESSES • • • 0 • . 125 G. DEFINITIONS OF TEXTILE AlID CLOTHING TERMS . 127 LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1. Ladies' Formal Gown, 1866 ••••.••• . 2J 2. Morning Dress with Shawl and Accessories, 1861 . 25 J. Af'ternoon Gown and Accessories, 1863 25 4. Walking Dress and Accessories, 1864 e e a O e O e e • 25 5. Walk12:tg Dress and Accessories, 1865 25 6. Ball Gown and Accessories, 1867 • ; . 27 7. Afternoon Gowns and Accessories, 1868 . 27 8. Walking Dress and Accessories, 1869 . c; • • • . 27 9. Ladies' Basque-Waist and Five-Gored Skirt . 31 10. Ladies' Afternoon Toilette • • • • • • • • 0 • • • • • • 33 11. Polonaise Gowns and Accessories, 1871 . 37 12. Polonaise Gown and Accessories, 1874 . 37 13. Formal Gown and Accessories, 1876 ••• . 37 14. Princess Gowns aild Accessories, 1877 e e e O O e • e e a 37 15. Princess Gown, 1975 ••Pz-omenade Costumes" . 39 16. Cloak and Accessories •••••. 42 17. Polonaise Gown and Accessories, 1883 . 42 18. Princess Gown and Accessories, 1887 . 42 19. Polonaise Gown, 1889 • • e a a e e • G e O • 8 a e e e • 42 20. Front-View of Princess Gown, Peplum Bodice and Bustle Skirt with Train, 1885 ..•..••• 58 Figure Page 21. Back-View of Princess Gown, Peplum Bodice and Bustle Skirt with Train, 1885 •••••• • . " . 60 22. Striped Day Dress of Pioneer Woman of Dakota Territory, 1865 • • • • • • . • • • • . • 0 • • 73 23. Plaid Silk Day Dress, 1860s •••• . • 0 • • . 75· 24. Day Dress of Calico Print, 1860s • • • • • • • • • e • • 77 25. Polonaise Gown, Cuirass Bodice and Tiered Skirt, 1870s • 82 26. Princess Gown, Peplum Bodice with Overskirt and Underskirt, 1873 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • O • C e e 84 27. Wedding Gown, Jacket Style Bodice and Gored Skirt, 1885 • 87 28. Jacket Style Bodice with Puffed Sleeves and Gored Skirt, 1885 • • • • • • • • • 0 • • • • • II • • 89 Outdoor Apparel, Jacket with Fur Collar and Muff, 1880s e e • e e e e e e e e e e e e e e e II e • • 0 . 92 30. Crinoletta Bustle, Front-View and Back-View • 0 95 31. Bishop Bustle, Side-View and Top-View . O O 0 . 97 J2. Tilter Bustle ••••• 0 • • • • • • • • 0 0 0 O • e • e 97 33. Small Black Beaded Hat, 1870s . 0 0 e 101 J4. Sunbonnet, 1860-::890 0 e e • e O e e • e e O O O e e e e 101 35. Slat Bonnet, 1860-1890 • • • 0 • • • • • • • • • • • • • 101 Chapter I INTRODUCTION Hard-times of the Dakota Territory demanding strenuous _physical labor compelled the investigator to study the clothing and dressmaking needs of pioneer women 1861-1889. This historical study of costume provides an insight into the life styles and the role of pioneer women as they interpreted clothing into their physical a.�d utilitaria.n needs in adapting to the new frontier. The purpose of this research was to study the costume of the American women who resided in the Dakota Territory prior to the statehood of South Dakota, November 2, 1889. During the period 1861-1889, the Missouri River served as a.geographical barrier in the development of the western half of South Dakota. Therefore, this research is limited to the state of South Dakota east of the Missouri referred to as "east-river." This study dealt with a variety of women who came from diverse backgrounds. To pioneer women who migrated from surrounding areas or emigrated from other countries, clothing was one of the primary needs and a vital asset in conforming to the life style in Dakota environment. In addition, the ways in which these Dakota women fulfilled their clothing needs provides ample evidence of consumption and patterns of production. 2 The topic of pioneer dress is of growing concern to costume historians across the country; however, research in this area has been limited. This research is an effort to fill the gap of American costume of pioneer women by describing the clothing. Statement of the Problem High fashion from 1861 to 1889 was elaborate both in style and use of fabric and trims. Since ready-made clothing was very limited and Dakota Territory was undeveloped in urba..� and rural areas during this period, providing clothing and keeping up with fas�ion meant having the necessary skills, equipment and supplies to make garments. Since this period begins