IV NN ERS H A A T R 5 Y 1 This Month: HEINEKEN REGATTA CURACAO How to REPLACE FLOORS on a J24 Cap’n Fatty Explains GLOBAL ECONOMIC MELTDOWN Magnificent FRIGATEBIRDS JUNIOR SAILOR PROFILE: Nikki Barnes SAILING TALL in Antigua BEHIND THE SCENES with Regatta Judges WELCOME BACK! and Umpires 23rd Atlantic Rally for Cruisers 19th Caribbean 1500 8th North Atlantic Rally NOW IN THE CARIBBEAN PUERTO DEL REY Fajardo, Puerto Rico Sea-Lift is proud to announce the delivery and startup of the most recent Model 45 to Puerto del Rey in Fajardo, Puerto Rico. This newly designed Sea-Lift features expandable width lift arms which enables a greater variety of catamarans to be handled than ever before. The Sea-Lift will haul vessels weighing up SOPER’S HOLE to 45 Tons and 65 Feet. Tortola, BVI Along with day to day usage, Puerto del Rey will enhance their hurricane haul out capa- bilities, further providing unsurpassed speed and safety in boat handling to customers throughout the Caribbean. Visit www.sea-lift.com for additional information. CONTACT KMI SEA-LIFT T: 360.398.7533 F:360.398.2914 6059 Guide Meridian Rd Bellingham, WA 98226 USA [email protected] A warm welcome awaits you and your yacht at Port Louis Port Louis, Grenada Limited availability Nowhere extends a warmer welcome than Port Louis, Grenada. 30-year slip licences are available for sale. For a private consultation Visitors can expect powder-white beaches, rainforests, spice plantations to discuss the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our and a calendar packed with regattas and festivals. Grenada is also International Sales Manager, Anna Tabone, on +356 2248 0000 the gateway to the Grenadines, one of the world’s most beautiful or email [email protected] and unspoilt cruising areas. To fully appreciate this rare opportunity, we highly recommend a visit. Now there’s another good reason to visit. There are 50 new, fully To arrange an on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing serviced slips for yachts of all sizes (including superyachts of up Co-ordinator, Danny Donelan on +1(473) 435 7432 or email to 90m) available right now for sale or let. From November, [email protected] nine additional superyacht slips from 75 to 85m will be available. Sitting alongside the marina, the Port Louis Maritime Village will include luxury hotels, villas, restaurants and bars, plus some of the finest boutiques and shops in the region. EGYPT | ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | WEST INDIES !-*489=(1:8.;* %&(-9.3,*89.3&9.43 .39-*&7.''*&3 Guests, Captains, and Crew – Enjoy High-end Amenities A.;* 9&7:=:7>*8479&3) 5&@.8(4;*7>&9&7.,49&> A *;*314(&17*89&:7&398&3)'&78 A$&9*7854798 A&.3+47*8994:7880>7.)*8'.0*94:78&3)247* First-Class Facilities, Services, and Staff A%&(-9(&5&(.9> +**9 +**9'*&2 +**9)7&+9 A$..&3)-.,-85**).39*73*9(433*(9.43 A .3,1*&3)9-7**5-&8**1*(97.(.9> &3) ? A.,-85**)+:*1.3, A147&1&77&3,*2*398 A.6:47&3)+44)574;.8.43.3, A:8.3*88*39*7 *)=(&77*39&197&;*1&,*3(> A 5&7*5&7947)*7.3,&3))*1.;*7> A.7547997&38+*78 Charter Yacht Pick-up and Drop-Off A39*73&9.43&1&.75479<.9-).7*(9+1.,-98+7429-*" &3)" A*1.54793*&7'> A7.;&9*/*91&3).3,&93*&7'>*47,*-&71*8.75479#.,.* Christmas in Marigot Bay A 5*3)-7.892&8.3&7.,49&><*,:&7&39**& .1*39.,-9 Marigot Bay – Nature’s Hurricane Hole A*89<.3)&3)8*&8-*19*7'*9<**3:*794.(4&3)#*3*?:*1& A*,&>&(-9'*79-.3,.3-:77.(&3*(43).9.438 A *(:7.9>5&97418&3)8:7;*.11&3(*&9&119.2*8 439&(9"8+47*9&.18 (758) 451-4275 2&7.3&2&7.,49'&>(42 <<<2&7.,49'&>(42 #-&33*1 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR ALL AT SEA WANTS TO HEAR FROM YOU. Send your correspondence by email to [email protected], or mail letters to: All At Sea, PO Box 7277, St. Thomas, VI 00801 Dear Editor, I really enjoyed Fatty Goodlander’s article, “On Ports and Passages.” My five years out took me from Australia to South East Asia, across the Indian Ocean (Sri Lanka, Maldives, Chagos) and back to Thailand, then from Malaysia across the Indian Ocean (Sri Lanka, Maldives, Chagos, Seychelles, It’s a question of trust. Dar, Zanzibar, Madagascar,) port-by- port around South Africa to Brazil, then (believe it or not, on a different What do owners of over 8,000 yachts, motorboats, yacht) from Malaysia to Norway via superyachts, raceboats, powerboats and international the Red Sea and the Med and finally sailing teams have in common? the North Sea. ,!!(&)'((+$&!'!#%&$*&$!$! I wrote articles for a newspa- "&#!$'(''&*'($"#('%"#($ per at the time. I spent two long (&&(($ %$&('# $)#(&'&$)#( periods in Chagos. After the first of them, which I remember as a time- +$&!!'(,& standing-still paradise, I sat down to The facts speak for themselves. write about it and what I had done !$! there…and found I couldn’t. "&# What did I do? Well…I read some books, I did some fishing, I !$'(' $&)&(&#$&"($##(!'$$)&+$&!+$- picked some coconuts—but how #(+$& %!'*'(petersandmay.com $&$#(($)& do you fill newspaper pages with '%%#$#')!(#(' that? And yes, it’s ten years ago Antigua: since I was there the last time, so I Auckland: guess I’ll sail in there one day now Chicago: and say, “You should have been Dubai: here in the nineties…” Southampton: Palma: Thanks for a good story! La Ciotat: Bjorn Endresen Newport, R.I.: Sydney: Editor’s note: To read Fatty’s South Africa: articles including this one from %(&'#",$" Valencia: September 2006, go to our web site www.allatsea.net (Letters continued on page 22) THIS ISSUE 74 NOVEMBER 2008 THE CARIBBEAN’S WATERFRONT MAGAZINE FEATURES ISLAND EVENTS & INTERESTS CARIBBEAN DINING AND PROVISIONING ANTIGUA 76 Where to Provision This Year: 54 Jolyon Byerly’s Letter From Antigua A Cruiser’s Guide 57 Sailing Tall: Clare Cupples 78 A Traditional Thanksgiving Feast By Captain Jan Robinson BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 79 Where to Eat 52 Welcome Back Carib 1500 CARIBBEAN RACING CIRCUIT CARRIACOU 36 Regattas Behind the Scenes: 58 61 Yachting Community Raises Henry Menin, ISAF Judge and Umpire $17,000 More for Children CHARTERING CURAÇAO 98 Tales from the Charter Cockpit: Bermuda – The Devil’s Isles 66 Heineken Regatta Conquers Curaçao By Jeannie Kuich 69 Breezy, Busy Summer Sunfishing CRUISING AND CIRCUMNAVIGATING GRENADA 74 Day Sail Dog 61 Mt. Airy Young Readers Set Sail By Peter Muilenburg 62 New Superyacht Berths to Open FISHING at Port Louis This Month 30 Guys Triumph in Guy-Gal Challenge 63 New Look for Grenada Sailing Festival Sam Jennings Releases 1000th Blue Marlin 31 PUERTO RICO 31 Two Thou Wins St. Lucia’s 47 Grand Opening Held for 18th Intl Billfish Tournament Palmas del Mar Yacht Club JUNIOR SAILING RACING CIRCUIT ST. LUCIA 42 Profile: Nikki Barnes 58 Welcome Back ARC OUR NATURAL WORLD 59 A Modest Proposal: Rodney Bay Adds 71 Aerial Robbers: Frigate Birds Megayacht Berths From Trickle to Torrent 73 U.S.V.I. REFLECTIONS FROM BEIJING 49 Davis Murray and the 38 Reflections from Quingdao Art of Compass Adjusting Publisher CHRIS KENNAN 40 Luis Chiaparro Coaches Caribbean 51 St. Croix Valentine Regatta [email protected] Olympians in Beijing Chosen as Opti Qualifier Editorial Director 41 Julio Reguero Represents VENEZUELA CHRIS GOODIER Puerto Rico at Paralympics [email protected] 64 Mermaid Sculptor Dimitrios Demu Creative Director SAILING HUMOR NICOLE KENNAN 43 Sailing With Charlie: Reef Huggers Part 2 [email protected] By Julian Putley DEPARTMENTS & RESOURCES Graphic Designers 44 The Sea Gypsies’ NEVA HURLEY 14 Where in the World Subscription Contest LISA DROBEK Guide to Economic Meltdown 18 Caribbean News By Cap’n Fatty Goodlander Advertising 24 Yacht Club News International TIPS & TRICKS 26 Event Calendar NICOLE FERRIS [email protected] 32 Digital Selective Calling: Part 2 28 Caribbean Marina Guide 34 Replacing Floors on a J/24 46 Pets at Sea Virgin Islands (US/BVI) 80 Caribbean Brokerage CAPT. JAN ROBINSON [email protected] 94 Marketplace 96 Classifieds St. Maarten/Antigua/St. Kitts GILLY GOBINET 96 Sponsor Directory [email protected] 98 Skylights Accounting, Subscriptions [email protected] Owned and Published by Kennan Holdings, LLC COVER SHOT: P.O. Box 7277, St. Thomas, USVI 00801 phone (443) 321-3797 PHOTO BY TIM WRIGHT fax (340)715-2827 WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM 2007 Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) participants from Wings VI, crossing The views and opinions of the contributors to this publication are not necessarily those the finish line in St. Lucia. Read about of the publishers or editors. Accordingly, the the 2008 Rally in this issue. publishers and editors disclaim all responsibility for such views and opinions. The NEWEST Addition to our Line of QUALITY PRODUCTS TEL (340) 776-5432 TEL (787) 790-4900 TEL (284) 494-3154 FAX (340) 775-4507 FAX (787) 272-6120 FAX (284) 494-5892 WWW.OFFSHOREVI.COM WWW.MOTORSPORT-INC.COM [email protected] Cuba Great Inagua Island WHERE IN THE WORLD? Cayman Brac nds man Haiti Dominican Republic Jamaica Congratulations, Tory, and thanks for reading All at Sea! My wife Betty Sue and I live in Annapolis, MD and sail our 1980 Mariner 36 sloop on the Chesapeake Bay and beyond. I’m reading All At Sea on Annapolis City Dock, home of the US Sailboat Show. Tory Salvia Caribbea Annapolis, MD USA WIN A FREE HeinekenHeinek Regatta ConquersConquer Curacao PAGE 66 SUBSCRIPTION Breezy, Busy Summer Sunfishing PAGE 69 Send us a picture of you reading All At Sea Arubab and you may be the lucky winner.