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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at http : //books . google . com/ THE EASTERN SEAS, OR VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES IK THE INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, IN 1832-33-34, COMPRISING A TOUR OF THE ISLAND OF JAVA—VISITS TO BORNEO, THE MALAY PENINSULA, SIAM, &e.; ALSO AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRESENT STATE OF SINGAPORE, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. BY GEORGE WINDSOR EARL, LONDON: WM. H.ALLEN AHD CO. LEABEtfttALLSTREET. 1837. ,1 Printed by J..L. Cox and SONS, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's-Inn Fields. *•• « « • TO DR. JOSH DALMEIDA, OF SINGAPORE, WHOSfe KINDNESS AND LIBERALITY ARE SO WIDELY ACKNOWLEDGED NUMEROUS TRAVELLERS WHO HAVE BEEN WELCOMED UNDER HIS HOSPITABLE ROOF, N THE FOLLOWING WORK AS A TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE AND A MEMORIAL OF ESTEEM, BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. VOYAGE FROM WESTERN AUSTRALIA TO JAVA.—BATAVIA. PAGE Departure from Western Australia to Batavia. — Native Seamen.—Make the Island of Java.—Chinese Quarrel. —Arrival at Anjer.—Continue the Voyage.—The Thou­ sand Islands.—Arrival at Batavia.—Transactions there. — European Mode of life. — Horses.—Schuterij.— Climate of Batavia.—Commerce.—Native Inhabitants.— A rich Landed Proprietor. — Chinese Campong. — Capitan China.—Relative Position of the Chinese and the Natives.—Dutch Merchants.—Nederlandsch Handel Maatschappy. — British and Chinese Sugar Planters. —British Landed Proprietors 1 CHAPTER II. SOURABAYA. Sail for Sourabaya.—Javanese Mode of taking Fish.— Land and Sea Breezes.—Native Prahus.—Anecdotes of the Pirates. —Raja Raga. — Adventure between his favourite Panglima and a British Man-of-War.—Arrival b VI CONTENTS. atSamarang.—Attempted Murder of a Javanese Fisher­ man.—Continue the Voyage.—Heavy Squall.—Teak Forests.—Sagacity of a Manilla Bloodhound.—Arrival at Sourabaya.—i Description of the Town. — English Residents. — Promenades. — Lizards. —Anecdote of a Tokkay.—Life in Sourabaya.—Liplaps.—Manners and Customs of the Javanese.—System of enlisting Seamen. —Costume of the Natives.—Habitations.—Visit to an Arab Merchant.—Native Christians.—Novel Mode of Ship-building.—Sail for the South Coast of Java 36 CHAPTER III. TOUR OF JAVA. Incidents at Sea.—Arrival at Samanap.—Salt Pans.— i Cattle.—The Panambahan and his Fish Ponds.—Depar­ ture from Samanap.—Economy of a Country Ship.— Comparative Efficiency of Javanese Seamen.—Their Mode of Life.—Amusements.—Gummock, a Moun­ taineer.—Enter the Indian Ocean by Lombok Strait.— Present State of the Islands of Bali and Lombok.— Voyage along the South Coast of Java.—Nusa Kam- bangan, or the Floating Island.—Dangerous Situation of the Ship.—Anchor at Cali Pujang.—Transactions.— Desertion and Capture of Two Seamen.—Marine F§te given to the Javanese.—Dancing Girls.—Wyang, or Native Play.—Anecdote of a Mountaineer.—Entertain­ ment at the Port—Topography of Cali Pujang.—Govern- V ment Productions.—Edible Birds' Nests.—Zoology.— Prospective Importance of Cali Pujang.—Sail for Bata via. —Arrival there.—Sir Stamford Raffles 74 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. VOYAGE FROM JAVA TO SINGAPORE. Embark and Sail for Singapore.—Dutch Invalids return­ ing Home.—Palo Babi.—Passengers.—The East Coast of Sumatra.—Weather.—Enter Banca Straits.—Fall in with a Chinese Junk.-p-A Javan Chinese Passenger.— Scenes in the Straits.—Stillness of the Jungle.—Savage Inhabitants of Sumatra.—Banca.—Inhabitants.—Tin Mines.—Palembang.—Anecdote of its Capture by the British.—Enter Rhio Straits.—Ban Ok, the Capitan China of Rhio.—Present State of the Settlement.—Con­ tinue the Voyage to Singapore.—Ship touches on the Rocks.—Arrival at Singapore CHAPTER V. VOYAGE TO SIAM.—BANKOK. Embark for Siam.—Object of the Voyage.—Passengers. —A Malay Hadjee.—Seamen.—Arrive at Tringanu.— Transactions there.—Proceed to Calantan.—Continue the Voyage.—Cape Patani.—Arrive at Siam.—A Night Excursion up the River to Bankok.—Appearances of the Town.—Factory.—Hattee's Canoe.—Visit to the Royal Tombs.—Cavalier Treatment of Visitors.—Appear­ ance, Manners, and Dress of the Siamese.—Talapoins or Priests.—Siamese Women.—C hinese and other Foreign Settlers.—Aggressions of the Siamese on the Malays.— An Ex-Raja. — Siamese Christians.—Adepts at Pig- stealing.—Anecdote.—Floating Houses.—Commerce of Bankok.—Leave Bankok for the Mouth of the River.. Vlll CONTENTS. PAGE —Scene in a Coco-nut Grove,—Arrival on board the Schooner H7 CHAPTER VI. VOYAGE DOWN THE EAST COAST OF THE MALAY PENINSULA. —TRINGANU. Departure from Siam. — Arrive at Tringanu. — Malay Habitations,—Occupations of the Natives.—The Sultan and the Pangerans, — Manners and Customs of the Malays. — The Pirates. — Precautions against their Attacks.—Visit from a Spy.—Specimen of the Malay Aristocracy.—Departure of a Musquito Fleet to attack the Pirates.—Departure for Singapore,—Malay Fisher­ men, —• Hooks and Lines, — Fish.—Severe Squall. — Cochin Chinese Vessels and Seamen,—-Arrival at Singa­ pore 182 CHAPTER VII. VOYAGE TO BORNEO. Preparations for the Voyage.—Sail from Singapore- Opium Smokers,—Arrival on the Coast of Borneo,— Search for a Town.—A Fortified Creek,—Anchor off Sinkawan.—Dutch Cruise-prahus.—Visit to the Town. —Reception from the Chinese.—The Town and its In­ habitants.—The Kung Se.—A Popular Assembly.— Return to the Schooner.—Mud Banks and their Occu­ pants,—Novel Mode of taking Fish.—Continue our Voyage to the Sambas River.—Excursion up the River to the Town.—Visit to the Dutch Resident—Bring the Schooner up the River. — Interview with some wild CONTENTS. ix PAGE Dyaks.—Description of Sambas.—Visit to the Sultan. —The Pangerans.—Former System of Piracy.—Excur­ sion up the River in search of the Orang Outan.— Trees.—Baboons.—The Orang Obtan.—The Wou-Wou. ^ —Domestic Animals.—A Public Dinner.—Departure from Sambas 199 CHAPTER VIII. BORNEO.—DUTCH COLONIES.— RECENT DISCOVERIES.—THE ABORIGINES. The West Coast of Borneo.—Malay and Chinese Colonies. —Cession to the Dutch.—Monopoly of the Diamond Mines.—Blockade of the Chinese Colony by the Dutch. —Consequent Destruction of its Commerce.—Revenue of the Dutch Settlements.—Commerce.—Productions.— Population,— Rivers.—Recent Discoveries in the In­ terior.—The Danau Malay u.—The Dyaks, the Aboriginal Inhabitants of Borneo.—Personal Appearance.—Women. —Habitations and Plantations.—Commerce.—Skill in Tempering Iron.—Weapons.—Religion.—Human Sacri­ fice.—Human Head Hunting.—Destruction of the Popu­ lation of Slaku.—Dyaks said to be Cannibals.—Suscep­ tible of Improvement.—Relicts of an Ancient People.— Oracular Jars 239 CHAPTER IX. VISIT TO THE GOLD MINES, AND TO THE CAPITAL OF THE CHINESE COLONY. Return to Sinkawan.—Departure for Montradok.—Appear­ ance of the Country.—Sedan Chairs.—Exhausted Gold X CONTENTS. Mines.—The Great Plain of Montradok.—Arrival at the Capital.—Gold and Diamond Mines.—A Meeting of Congress.—Habits and Form of Government of the Chinese Colonists.—Notions of the Chinese concerning the Origin of the Dyaks.—Alarming Reports from the Sea Coast.—Depart for Sinkawan—Interview with some Dyaks.—Pirates.—Commercial Transactions with the Kung Se.—Mode of Bargaining.— Clamorous Pur­ chasers.—Excursion to the Neighbouring Islands.—Pig Hunting.— Return to Singapore.