Helsby Area / 23 To M56 J12 J12 / Manchester M56 Frodsham Netherton Arms B5152 A56 B5393 J14 / Chester Frodsham Crag Helsby Helsby Crag Harmers A56 Wood B5393 Avanley Cliff Manley Knoll Jon Read enjoying the afternoon sunshine on The West Buttress climbing Agag VS 4c (route 88). Photo Sarah Clough. 1km Grid Reference: SJ 492755 Altitude: 140m Aspect: North / North-West M – E8 by Andy Popp Helsby is the largest and most important of Cheshire’s sandstone crags. Standing proud and tall above the town of the same name its long and rich climbing history lends it an evocative and enthralling atmosphere that is matched by a varied, ever-fascinating array of climbs. The crag is com- posed of fine-grained, un-quarried sandstone that provides just about every style of climbing. Locals delight in its easy accessibility, returning time and again to re-climb favour- ite routes and share good times with friends. Visitors will find a crag quite unlike any other where they can measure themselves against the pioneers of the past on a series of venerable testpieces, from Overhanging Crack to The Beatnik and beyond. Though semi-urban the environment is appeal- ing, almost bucolic; delightful, quiet woods lie below and ravens and peregrines wheel through the skies above. It’s been said before, but next time you are speeding westward on the teeming M56, do not ignore the siren call from above; you won’t regret it. The Climbing So varied are the routes at Helsby that it is impossible to categorise them as falling into one particular style. The crag has everything in spades: blank, smeary slabs, fingery walls, delicious flakes and equally brutal cracks, jug laced roofs looming blackly overhead. The majority of routes demand confidence or even a measured dose of boldness. Protection can be sparse and, even when present, is not always to be trusted. As is probably true of all sandstone crags in England rock quality varies, from superb to downright weak. Foot- holds can sometimes feel insecure, especially to the first time visitor. But persistence and careful acclimatization are well rewarded. Besides the sheer quality of much of the actual climbing, further appeal is added by the dramatic exposure of many climbs, created by the tiered structure of the crag and the steeply sloping hillside beneath. Left: Emily Huzzard on Eliminate 1 E1 5b (route 136). Increasingly bold climbing leads away from the sling runner to a rounded top out. Photo: Paul Evans. 26 / Helsby / Approach Helsby / 27 Rake Lane er Road Chest Old A56 Helsby East Chester Road Central Buttress Buttress Clashooks Gully District Garage West Buttress rive Top Tier t D Bouldering en sc re C Barrel Buttress Old Chester Road Alvanley Road Helsby Woods Bouldering Middle Walk Hill Road North Long Wall Traverse Buttress to Hill Road South 100m Approach The M56 Motorway provides easy access whether approaching from East or West. Leave the motorway at Junction 12 (approaching from the east) or Junction 14 (from the west) and gain the A56 Chester Road running through the centre of Helsby. Opposite the garage in the centre of town, turn up Crescent Drive and find ample parking at the junction of Crescent Drive, Old Chester Road, and Alvanley Road. An obvious entry into the woods gains paths threading their way up the hill to gain the west end of the crag. Alternatively, follow Alvanley Road further south to a car park on the right. Either walk a little way back down the hill to Middle Walk, contouring the hill under the crag, or take Hill Road South (opposite the car park) and its continuation path to the top of the hill. Right: Is there a more exposed VD in Britain? Andy Popp attempts to push the crag apart at the top of The Notch VD (route 165). Photo: Ian Parnell. 28 / Helsby / Introduction Introduction / Helsby / 29 West Buttress Central Buttress Top Tier Bouldering Upper Tier East Descent Buttress Descent Upper Tier Broad Walk Middle Tier Lower Tier Morgue Slab Clashooks Greenteeth Gully Gully Flake Crack Central Area Undertaker’s Lower Tier Buttress (hidden by trees) (hidden by trees) Far East Buttress Conditions and Aspect Helsby is notorious for its unappealing green appearance when seen from the would at Stanage or in the Pass. However, a word to the wise; always exercise ex- M56. But this is deceptive and the crag is often in much better condition than tra precaution about protection here. Apparently-sound placements can explode, might be assumed, particularly on the most popular sections of the West Buttress. disintegrate, erode, or otherwise fail. Grades, once notoriously harsh (though not, It is true, however, that large sections of the Central and East Buttresses have thank god, as harsh as at nearby Pex Hill) have been adjusted to try and take ac- become green and overgrown in recent years. Facing north to north-west, much count of this factor. If that means you come away with a few soft-touches, well, of the crag enjoys afternoon sunshine. Year round climbing is possible but summer we all deserve some of them now and again. evenings are perhaps best. The crag never seems to get as sweaty (or as midgey) Crag Layout as the grit and the elevated position, capturing every last second of the dying Though easily divided into three major buttresses, West, Central, and East, Helsby sunlight, permits very long evenings. There are few things better in English outcrop is actually quite a complex crag. In particular, a tiered structure means some routes climbing than ambling back down through darkening, peaceful woods, the crag and sectors are best approached from underlying routes, from the side, or even an unearthly orange above, the body tired from climbing, and a pint beckoning. above. Most approaches to the foot of the rocks deposit the climber at the west- Elevation also gives a tremendous outlook over the Mersey estuary and Liverpool, ern end of West Buttress. From here the greatest concentration of highest quality over dramatic industrial hinterlands, and west to the promised lands of Wales. The climbs are easily accessible. The left-hand end of West Buttress is demarcated by only drawback is constant noise from the motorway. rocky Clashooks Gully, which provides access to much of the Upper Tier of West Grades and Protection Buttress and the Middle and Upper Tiers of Central Buttress. To access the Lower As befits a crag with such a long and distinguished history the ‘traditional’ British Tier of Central Buttress and its eastern extension, drop down and round from the grading system is used. The crag has in the past had a tradition of top-roping and foot of Clashooks. Increasingly arduous slopes then lead round to Marshall’s Climb many routes have first been recorded as ‘Not Led’ (NL), in the style of the Kentish at the far left-hand end of Central Buttress and eventually the ragged ramparts of sandstone outcrops – indeed a few of these remain and are still recorded here in East Buttress. Some of the very first climbs on East Buttress are best accessed from line with that tradition. Most though have now had lead or solo ascents and it is the cliff-top path. Climbs (and buttresses) are described from left to right. hoped that this guide will encourage newcomers to view Helsby as a ‘normal’ crag, i.e. one at which it is possible to simply turn up and lead routes on-sight as one Grid Reference: SJ 511761 Altitude: 110m Aspect: West V0 - V8 by Ben Farley The Climbing This is biceps and brawn country. Overhanging, juggy and fierce, a quick and confident approach is the key to success here. Though you will find the odd technical move requiring steel fingers and crafty footwork, the ability to pull hard will pay dividends. Many of the climbs are quite high and because you will often be horizontal under a roof, a pad and a spotter are certainly recommended. To compensate for the steep nature of the climbing, most problems are well endowed with large holds throughout. Conditions and Aspect Frodsham can provide wonderful bouldering at almost any time of year, but you do need to get the conditions right. The many small buttresses that make up the crag are spread along the edge of a west facing ridge and are almost completely shrouded in trees. The trees provide excellent shelter and a good breeze will dry the crag quickly during winter but during summer the thick foliage does have a tendency to keep the crag damp after rain. Local climbers generally agree that perfect Frodsham conditions are found during spring and autumn evenings when the sun shines on the crag, the leaves are not too claustrophobic and the temperatures are cool. Although some of the more overhanging buttresses do provide a small amount of wet weather bouldering, it is worth noting that damp or wet holds should never be used. Holds have been damaged in the past by people attempting to pull on damp rock and the sandy nature of the rock means that climbers should always be wary of any suspicious looking holds. Grades For the purposes of this guide, every climb at Frodsham has been given a bouldering grade, rather than an E grade. However, some of the climbs are certainly pushing the boundaries of what would normally be considered a boulder problem, indeed some of the buttresses are up to 8 metres high. Martin Boysen on Superwall V2 (problem 40). A typical Frodsham route; good positive holds but have you the strength to use them? Photo: Niall Grimes.