LOOK TOWARD THE MOUNTAIN, EPISODE 4 TRANSCRIPT ROB BUSCHER: Welcome to Look Toward the Mountain: Stories from Heart Mountain Incarceration Camp, a series about life inside the Heart Mountain Japanese American Relocation Center in northwestern Wyoming during World War II. I’m your host, Rob Buscher. This podcast is presented by the Heart Mountain Wyoming Foundation and is funded by the National Endowment for the Humanities. ROB BUSCHER: The fourth episode titled, “Prison Food” will explore how the more than 10,000 Japanese American incarcerated at Heart Mountain coped with the distasteful army rations they confronted when they first arrived in camp, and the important role that food played in their daily lives during the incarceration. INTRO THEME ROB BUSCHER: Food is central to all family gatherings, but for immigrant communities it plays an important role in maintaining cultural traditions in the next generation. Like in many cultures, the Japanese relationship with food speaks to the nature of their unique identity. For some Issei immigrant parents who had trouble relating to their American children, family dinners were some of the only time they regularly spent together, expressing love for their children through the food they prepared for them. Japanese food also gave the Nisei children a tangible connection to a culture that seemed foreign to them, experienced through the flavors of their ancestral home. ROB BUSCHER: Prior to camp, the Issei mostly ate the food they knew from life in Japan. When most of them left Japan in the first decades of the 20th century, Japanese food culture had already been influenced by a number of outside sources. From the Portuguese traders in the early Edo period came fried dishes like tempura and croquette. The Japanese word for bread - pan - is also taken from the Portuguese language. ROB BUSCHER: During the Meiji Restoration when commercial trade opened to the British Empire, British sailors brought with them curry from their colony in India. Centuries of trade with China and recent Japanese imperial incursions in the Modern age had brought a variety of dishes like gyoza dumplings and ramen - how Japanese pronounced the Chinese word for lo mein. The Issei who lived in Japanese cities prior to their migration would likely have been familiar with all of these dishes, in addition to the cuisine that was native to Japan. ROB BUSCHER: In the countryside where many Japanese adhered to more bucolic lifestyles, their diets typically consisted of washoku - traditional Japanese cuisine. A traditional Japanese meal usually consists of one main dish and several small sides of fresh or pickled vegetables, and a bowl of white rice, sometimes served with a small bowl of soup. Fish was the main source of protein until the postwar occupation of Japan brought the meat-heavy diet of American soldiers. Beef is still less common than pork or chicken in traditional Japanese dishes, like those that the Issei would have eaten regularly. ROB BUSCHER: As the Nisei became more Americanized through their education, school lunches broadened their palates beyond what they ate at home, but their family meals mostly consisted of traditional foods. For many Nisei, home meals were the only time they tasted Japanese flavors in an era before Japanese restaurants were popular. The food memories of subtle dashi broth infused traditional washoku cooking encapsulated a connection they shared with their parents to Japan, and family dinners were an important way of maintaining the family bond. ROB BUSCHER: Those bonds were frayed and ultimately broken at the various assembly centers and in the early days of life at Heart Mountain. In one sense, the food rations that were provided to incarceree mess hall chefs were woefully inadequate. Beyond the low grade quality of much of the food, chefs lacked key ingredients necessary to produce even the most basic of Japanese dishes. ROB BUSCHER: In a more literal sense, family bonds eroded as they no longer ate their meals together. Children ate with their friends, and adults congregated together to socialize over dinner. Some parents worked in the mess halls, which made it difficult for them to share meals with their children. ROB BUSCHER: The mess halls at Pomona and Santa Anita assembly centers set the bar pretty low, and eating became a means of sustenance rather than something to be savored. The prisoners knew what they could expect at Heart Mountain. Frank Emi was 25 when he arrived at Heart Mountain. Before he was incarcerated, he had owned and operated a grocery store in Los Angeles. Emi remembered the first meals in camp as mostly inedible. FRANK EMI RECORDING FROM DENSHO: Well, I can remember one thing, we had some funny-looking fish that people called "three-boned fish" that nobody could eat. It was terrible. And I didn't like fish anyway so I don't think I ate maybe one or two bites of that, and that was it. But we had a lot of pastry. We had spaghetti and macaroni, and they had rice, and I believe they made tsukemono, cabbage tsukemono, etcetera. And as far as the rest of it, I really can't remember too well, but I remember we were having some tofu cooked with vegetables and maybe little pieces of meat, but actually, I can't remember what we had for breakfast -- probably had some oatmeal or something. ROB BUSCHER: Other prisoners remembered times when they got nothing more than canned tomatoes piled on rice. Although the nearby towns of Cody and Powell had benefited from Buffalo Bill’s irrigation project, a new channel would have to be dug before the land around Heart Mountain was capable of yielding fresh produce to improve or supplement the dreadful food rations. Decades later, memories of the monotonous food served in the mess halls stuck with former prisoners like Kats Kunitsugu. KATS KUNITSUGU RECORDING FROM FRANK ABE COLLECTION: Rutabagas and apple butter. I still don't eat apple butter because I remember it from camp. We didn't have any other kind of jam but apple butter. ROB BUSCHER: Margaret Saito remembered several dishes that most prisoners found distasteful. MARGARET SAITO RECORDING FROM DENSHO: The things I remember that I don't like are canned spinach, things that they would give us over and over and apple butter, we never had apple butter before that. And there were lots of canned things that probably to this day I won't eat. And they had things like rutabaga and things that we never heard of. But you know, that's how it was. I don't know, some was good and some wasn't. I don't remember anything that was a favorite. ROB BUSCHER: Suzie Sakai couldn’t even look at certain foods without feeling nauseous after she left Heart Mountain. SUZIE SAKAI RECORDING FROM DENSHO: We had a lot of mutton, I had never tasted mutton before in my life. I can't say that it was my favorite dish. We had horse meat. They did manage to have rice. And of course by that time, things like coffee and sugar were rationed, they were also rationed in camp. Lots of canned food, canned green beans. To this day, I can't stand to look at canned green beans. Oh, the other thing that I remember very vividly was they somehow thought that we'd like squid. Unfortunately at that point in time, they didn't know how to prepare it, so they forgot to take the ink sacks out, and so you got this plate with the rice all black from the black stuff from the squid. I don't think I'll ever forget that. ROB BUSCHER: Ike Hatchimonji was 14 when he arrived at Heart Mountain. He remembered running from mess hall to mess hall looking for more food with his friends. IKE HATCHIMONJI RECORDING FROM DENSHO: Well, interesting, because you had to eat in the mess hall that you were assigned to in your block, but in those days, they were still not well organized, so we were able to go from mess hall to mess hall. We would run from one mess hall to another, the neighboring mess halls, to get enough to eat because we were growing boys. In a way, it was a lot of fun as well. ROB BUSCHER: Not everyone hated the food. Children like Bill Shishima just ate what was in front of him. BILL SHISHIMA RECORDING FROM DENSHO: Food, I never was too particular about food. So I was, okay with me. And I think every once in a while, especially in the summer, we used to get watermelon treats. So my friends knew I didn’t care for watermelon so they always tried to sit next to me on Sundays when we had watermelon treats. ROB BUSCHER: Yuriko Yamamoto agreed. While her friends and family disliked mutton – a cheap cut of meat from older sheep that was often served in camp – she liked it. YURIKO YAMAMOTO RECORDING FROM DENSHO: I’ll eat anything, so it was no problem for me. I love mutton. I love lamb, see, so I used to enjoy stew. It's smelly, but I just love lamb. So I didn't mind it at all. ROB BUSCHER: Regardless of the quality of the food, the large group setting of mess hall dining was one of the biggest shifts for the incarcerees. Prior to camp life, family dinners were an important daily ritual for most Japanese Americans. In the mess halls children began sitting with their friends, eating separately from their parents. A 30-year-old from San Jose, Eiichi Sakauye, would become one of the leading farmers in Heart Mountain.