The Island of Lundy Naturetrek Tour Report 4 - 8 June 2019 Sika Helicopter landing Walking on Lundy Pennywort Report & images by Andrew Cleave Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Island of Lundy Tour participants: Andrew Cleave (leader) with six Naturetrek clients. Summary Early June is the peak time on Lundy for coastal flowers, breeding seabirds, moths and butterflies and marine life, and there are long days for enjoying the island. We experience d some beautiful sunny weather, one wild and stormy day, a boat crossing from Bideford and an exciting helicopter ride back to Hartland Point. We managed to cover most of the island during our stay with walks to many of the scenic spots. Millcombe House was a very comfortable place to stay and made a good site for running the moth trap. We enjoyed our meals in the Marisco Tavern, and also had picnics out on the island. Day 1 Tuesday 4th June The trip began early in the morning in Bideford where we assembled on the quay for the 7.30am sailing on MS Oldenburg. The ship can only enter and leave Bideford on the high tide, so we left promptly and had a smooth ride down the River Torridge to the open sea. Conditions were good for the crossing and a few seabirds were spotted on the way, including Manx Shearwater, Fulmar, Guillemot and some unidentified auks. There was great excitement when a small pod of Common Dolphins came close to the boat and on arrival at the Landing Bay on Lundy many Grey Seals were seen hauled out on the rocks. We landed at about 9.30 and as our accommodation would not be ready for some time, we decided to visit the South Lighthouse. This meant a climb up many steps, but it was worth it for the interesting view of the Marisco Castle looming above us with the dyke of Lundyite, a rock type unique to Lundy, forming a great buttress below it. An interesting plant growing here was Western Clover Trifolium occidentale, a relatively recent discovery on the island, but there were plenty of other colourful species to be seen including Kidney Vetch Anthyllis vulneraria and Thrift Armeria maritima. We spotted Rock Pipits feeding in the lighthouse compound and there were many gulls soaring around us. By now it had become rather damp, so we retraced our steps to the beach road and started the walk up to the top of the island. In the cave at the start of the road we looked for the egg cases of the Cave Spider Meta menardi and found several suspended from the roof. Further along the road was a superb display of Wood Vetch Vicia sylvatica which seems to thrive on the steep slopes here. Close by was a good show of Balm-leaved Figwort Scrophularia scorodonia and further on, we had our first sighting of the endemic Lundy Cabbage Coincya wrightii, growing at its only site in the world. We reached Millcombe House and left some of our day bags there and then carried on up the hill to the Marisco Tavern, by which time we were ready for lunch. We had time to have a quick look in the newly restored St Helen’s Church where there are some very informative displays about Lundy’s history and wildlife, and then returned to Millcombe House to sort out our luggage and get unpacked. After a rest and tea-break here, we had a short walk around the south end of the island before taking our evening meal in the Tavern. One interesting plant we saw on our walk was the Small Adder’s-tongue Fern Ophioglossum azoricum which seems to do very well on Lundy. Andrew set two moth traps running in the garden and by nightfall there were already a number of moths attracted to the lights. © Naturetrek November 19 1 The Island of Lundy Tour Report Day 2 Wednesday 5th June The morning was bright and sunny, and the first task was to check the moth traps. There was a very good selection of moths with Bright-line Brown-eye being the most common species. Once the moths had been checked and released, we prepared our picnic lunches and then we set off for breakfast in the tavern. After breakfast we set off to explore the west side of the island, heading for the Old Light via the Camping Field. Flocks of Starlings and Linnets were most frequent here, but we also saw Meadow Pipits in the fields and noted that almost every House Sparrow we saw had been colour-ringed. This is to aid research into this species by Sheffield University. There were splendid views from the top of the Old Light for those who braved the spiral staircase, whilst in the compound below we found Knotted Bur-parsley Torilis nodosa at one of its few Lundy sites. From here we walked to the west coast path and then found the steep path down to the Fog Battery, perched on the cliffs, way down on west side. This very scenic spot gave us superb views of the cliffs and the chance to watch the Razorbills coming and going to their nesting sites in the tumbled rocks nearby. The rare coastal Golden Hair Lichen Teloschistes flavicans was seen here and there were some very good specimens of Sea Spleenwort Asplenium marinum growing on the old walls of the Fog Battery. We made our way back up and then followed the path towards Jenny’s Cove, passing close by the Earthquake – a deep chasm in the top of the cliffs thought to date back to the early 19th century. At Jenny’s Cove we found a sheltered spot to sit and enjoy our picnic. From here we could see, hear and smell the seabird colonies down below us. Thousands of Guillemots now nest on Lundy and there were some impressive ledges covered with birds at this spot. There were also Razorbills and Puffins flying in and out, Fulmars gliding around the bay and a Peregrine calling constantly. All three species of the large gulls were seen here, and just offshore, a small flock of Kittiwakes were feeding with some occasionally flying back in to the nesting ledges. After enjoying this spectacle for a while, we had to tear ourselves away and continue with the walk towards the north end. After Three-quarter Wall we located the Quaking Bog which is a strange domed bed of Sphagnum moss which undulates and ripples if anyone stands on it. The north end seemed not to get any closer, but we continued on the track until eventually we got a wonderful view of the north end of the island with the North Lighthouse perched above the sea. There were seabirds all around here, including Gannets and Manx Shearwaters feeding in the tide race and all three species of auks flying in and out of the nesting cliffs. We had seen several Wheatears on the way and this end of the island appeared to support several breeding pairs. Andrew managed to find a Thrift Clearwing Moth here amongst the carpets of Thrift covering the steep slopes. After another rest, we set off on the return journey to Millcombe House with quite a few pauses on the way to take photographs, check out birds, watch the various mammals, including Soay Sheep, Sika Deer, Highland Cattle and Feral Goats which have free run of the island. Lundy has always been dog-free so the resident mammals do not flee when humans approach. We finally reached Millcombe and took a well-deserved tea-break after our long day out. We dined in the Tavern again that evening and then had time to go through our checklists and set the moth traps for the next day. Day 3 Thursday 6th June The moth traps were checked before breakfast and another good selection of species was found. We took breakfast in the Tavern as usual but delayed our departure for a while because of a rain shower. Once this had 2 © Naturetrek November 19 The Island of Lundy Tour Report cleared, we set off to explore the east side of the island which is much more sheltered. The lower path follows a route which was once almost a tunnel through the dense Rhododendron forest which covered the cliffs. This has now gone, and the open slopes have a very interesting flora developing, particularly the Lundy specialities which are spreading rapidly. We had a few sightings of the Sika Deer here which peered down at us from rocky crags above the path. We passed through two small copses of mixed trees and then emerged at the 19th-Century quarry site. The short-lived quarrying industry made quite an impact on this side of the island but the scars on the landscape are gradually being colonised by a rich flora. We found some good specimens of Royal Fern Osmunda regalis and Hay-scented Fern Dryopteris aemula here and some magnificent Foxgloves Digitalis purpurea which towered over our heads in places. The terrace here once had a tramway on it with steep slopes leading down to the sea so that huge blocks of granite could be loaded on to ships. It is now a very peaceful place and we spent some time here exploring the quarries and enjoying our picnic. The track led us up to the top of the island and back on to the main track.