Fundamental Stitches of Hardanger Embroidery I-IAKDAXGER work is so called because ris shown in the third group of stitches in Ills. the %\oinen of the Town of Hardanger Xo. 1. and on the return row the other two in Norway are such expert. workers of this -ides of the squares are made. With a little type (;f embroidery as are also the women of practice this becomes very easy. Sweden and Denmark. Though in its modern Ills. No. 2 shows various methods of form• form this work originated in Xorway the same ing corners; the I'lrst two are used to form stitches were used in making the wonderful straight edges on either side of a Hardanger embroideries of ancient Persia and Asia, but design. It is a matter of choice whether one at that time a fine silk thread was employed uses the mitered or diagonal corner, as they and the work done on a very fine gauze net• are purely decorative, but as the buttoidiole ting. edge and corner are generally used at the The equipment for Hardanger work is very extreme edge of the work and for the purpose simple, consisting of a very sharp pair of of strengthening the edge as the material is scissors with pointed ends, two sizes of em• cut away, the mitered buttonhole corner is broidery thread, and crewel needles. The not practical. Sometimes buttonhole stitch work may be done on any material woven with is used as a decorative stitch if special promi• a scjuare, even mesh, as the square is the basic nence is desired for a certain part of the de• form of Hardanger embroidery. There are sign, though not typical of this form of various canvases and embroidery scrims on the embroidery. market for this purpose. Such materials ravel After embroidery stitches are linished. cut very readily, so before beginning the embroi• threads for drawnwork in groups of four: dery, overcast the edges, taking the stitches This leaves groups of four threads on which over at least four threads of the material. All to do the weaving (Ills. Nos. 3. 4 and 5). The outlining or Klostcr stitch must be done be• finer thread is used for the weaving which is fore cutting the threads for the drawnwork or worked over two threads and under two trouble will follow. .As a general rule, it is threads, as in Ills. No. 5. These weaving wise to lay out the big spaces first, gradually stitches are drawn tight, giving a bowed effect working down to the small detail. to the woven bars. The heavier thread is for the Kloster or To add picots to these bars, work half way satin stitch and the finer for the weaving and down bar, take end of thread attached to work filling in stitches. and twist around the needle three times. holJ Kloster stitch is generally worked over four in place and draw needle through, pulling threads and there are always five stitches for thread tight and finish weaving bar. Ilhislrotioii No. 1 each single block, with four stitches added for Ills. No. 5 shows another way of elaborating each consecutive block (Ills. Nos. 3 and 4). Illustration A'o. 2 upon this work. This stitch is made ly wrk- Satin stitch is only worked ing a single buttonhole stitch over less than four threads on each side of a s(!t;rire. when it is not dejjended upon as an outline for cut work, it requires the strength of the four threads for this purpose. One of the methods of us• ing the Kloster stitch over eight threads is shown in Ills. No. 5. Note that the center five stitches are worked over eight threads with four stitches on either side to give balance. The second form of Kloster stitch in Ills. No. 1 is never used as an edge for cut work, but merely as a decorative stitch on the material. ^^^^^ Note that threads are never cut along the sides of stitches and the directions of stitches must, therefore, be governed accordingly. When working a row of squares one works diagonally, r» tTi •» r» *» •» '»«•••«»•»; •* •-•««•»•». »»«»»»«««r»i »•••»•»*•** lllnslralioii Xo. 3 Hhi.^lration No. 4 „ ^ ^••••j ^«<nr««i»«r« Illustration No. 5 .