Slovenia – Alpine Flowers of Lake Bohinj and the Julian Alps Naturetrek Tour Report 20 - 27 June 2013 Crepis aurea Dianthus barbatus Purple-edged Copper Dianthus sternbergii Report and images by Paul Harmes and Kerrie Porteous Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 England 0NG T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Slovenia – Alpine flowers of Lake Bohinj and the Julian Alps Tour Leaders: Paul Harmes Botanist Kerrie Porteous Local Guide: Marija Zupanc Botanist Drivers: Milena, Milan & Miro Stare Participants: Anne Cody Chris Cody Margaret Wilkinson Colin Wilkinson Metta Reeves Hugh Reeves Ken Sandell Stephanie Warburton Day 1 Thursday 20th June Weather: Stansted, Overcast and rain. Ljubljana; fine, hot and sunny Seven tour participants met Paul and Kerrie at the departures gate at Stansted Airport for the flight to Ljubljana. Upon our arrival, we completed immigration formalities and collected our luggage, before making our way to the arrivals hall, where we met up with Steph, the final member of the group, and Milan and his son Miro, our divers for the week. With luggage loaded, we set off travelling towards Kranj, before joining the motoway northwest to the exit for Bled. Passing through the town we soon had spectacular views of Lake Bled and the imposing Castle Bled, perched some 130m above the lake on the north shore. Continuing on, the road ran beside the Sava Bohinjka River. Before long, we passed through the small town of Bohinjska Bistrica and the villages of Savica and Polje, before arriving in Ribcev Laz, situated at the eastern end of the beautiful Lake Bohinj, and the Alpinum Hotel Jezero, our base for the duration of the tour. Having settled into our rooms, we met in reception, where Kerrie and Paul outlined some of the program for the week. This was followed by dinner. Day 2 Friday 21st June Weather: Fine, hot and sunny After breakfast, we met with our local guide, Marija, before embarking on our first full day. Our objective was to walk the path along the north side of Lake Bohinj. This route would take us through natural woodland, pastures and planted woodland of Fagus sylvatica (Beech) and Picea abies (Norway Spruce). Before setting off Marija gave us an explanation of the vegetation types and the geology, in order to give a picture of how the area developed and how it had been influenced humans. We began making our way through natural forest, comprised of Fagus sylvatica (Beech), Ostrya carpinifolia (Hop Hornbeam), Corylus avellana (Hazel), Fraxinus excelsior (Ash) and Juniperus communis subsp. communis (Common Juniper). Early finds included Neottia ovata (Twayblade), Salvia pratensis (Meadow Clary), Allium vineale (Crow Garlic), Thalictrum aquilegifolium (Great Meadow Rue) and Clematis recta (Erect Clematis). Insects were also beginning to make an appearance. These included three different Chafers, Cetonia aurata (Rose Chafer), Phyllopertha horticola (Garden Chafer) and Oxythyrea funesta (a Chafer). Butterflies were also appearing. Duke of Burgundy Fritillary, Small White and Pearly Heath were all recorded. © Naturetrek June 13 1 Slovenia – Alpine flowers of Lake Bohinj and the Julian Alps. Tour Report The bird life was not particularly obvious, but European Greenfinch, Common Chaffinch and European Robin were all heard. We took lunch where a stream emptied into the lake, and two members of the group elected to go for a swim, to cool off. Meanwhile Chequered Skipper, Wood White, Holly Blue, and Large Skipper butterflies were added. Moving on, we found Cephalanthera damasonium (White Helleborine), Epipactis atrorubens (Dark Red Helleborine), Frangula alnus (Alder Buckthorn), Rhamnus saxatilis (Rock Buckthorn), Petrorhagia saxifraga (Tunic Flower) and Hacquetia epipactis (Hacquetia). After crossing a boulder filled dry river bed, we added Maianthemum bifolia (May Lily), Astrantia carniolica (Carnic Masterwort), Cirsium erisithales (Yellow Melancholy Thistle) and Silene alpestris (Alpine Catchfly). We were now closing in on the village of Ukanc, our destination. We ended the day with more exciting finds. Clouded Yellow, Idas Blue and Little Blue butterflies were added, together with Dianthus sanguineous (a Pink), Campanula glomerata (Clustered Bellflower), Lunaria redivida (Perennial Honesty) and Orobanche gracilis (Slender Broomrape). However, one memorable moment came where we encountered a ‘wall of scent’, just before finding a bank of Dianthus sternbergii (Sternberg’s Pink). From Ukanc, we caught the boat back to the jetty at Ribcev Laz, near our hotel. As we progressed, the guide gave us some historical facts and folklore of the region as we made the fifteen minute journey. Day 3 Saturday 22nd June Weather: Fine Hot and Sunny. Light rain and thunder later After breakfast, we left the hotel, and retraced our steps along the lake shore to the open meadows, where the footpath to Stara Fuzina branched off to the right, through a gate into more pasture. Campanula rapunculoides (Creeping Bellflower) and Ranunculus sardous (Hairy Buttercup) were both recorded, and some of the group had views of a Red-backed Shrike. We emerged by the car park at Stara Fuzina, and took the track up the beautiful Korita Mostnice Gorge, passing through forest, past wet rocks and also open areas of scrub and grassy banks. Common Blue, Duke of Burgundy Fritillary and Pearly Heath butterflies were seen and European Robin and Common Chaffinch were heard. Pinguicula alpina (Alpine Butterwort), Genista radiata (Southern Greenweed), Veronica officinalis (Heath Speedwell), Homogyne sylvestrisis (a Purple Coltsfoot), Neottia nidus-avis (Bird’s-nest Orchid), Lonicera xylosteum (Fly Honeysuckle) and Gymnadenia conopsea subsp. conopsea (Fragrant Orchid) were all seen before we took a short breather on the rocks by the Mostnica River. Here, we found Veronica lutea (Yellow Paederota) and were entertained by White-throated Dippers dashing up and down the river and apparently feeding young. Moving on, we emerged from the gorge at Pl. Koca na Vojah, a refugio, where we had lunch of goulash or mushroom soup. After our meal we continued up the gently ascending path, passing Euonymus verrucosus (a Spindle Tree), Ranunculus platanifolius (a white Buttercup), Phyteuma nigra (Black Rampion) and Symphytum bulbosum (Tuberous Comfrey). Hay meadows now opened up before us and in the margins we found the beautiful endemic Lilium carniolicum (Carnic Lily), together with Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William), Phyteuma ovatum (Dark Rampion), Aconitum lycoctonum subsp. vulparia (Wolf’s-bane), Phyteuma scheuchzeri (Horned Rampion) and Geranium phaeum (Dusky Crane’s-bill). In the pasture we also saw Purple-edged Copper, Ringlet, Scotch Argus and Large Skipper butterflies, and overhead four Northern Ravens were circling. 2 © Naturetrek June 13 Slovenia – Alpine flowers of Lake Bohinj and the Julian Alps Tour Report From the pastures, we re-entered the woodland, where the path took us up to the Slape Mostnice (Mostnice Waterfall). From here, we made the descent back to where we had lunch, by a different route, where the minibus was waiting to return us to the hotel in time for dinner. Along the way we found a small stand of Neotinea ustulata (Burnt Orchid). Day 4 Sunday 23rd June Weather: Warm with High cloud and sunny periods Today, we boarded the buses at the hotel after breakfast, for the journey to Goreljek, on the Pokljuka plateau, situated northeast of Ribcev Laz. We made our way up through Stara Fuzina and Studor, through Cesnjica, Jereka and Koprivnik, before climbing up to Goreljek, where the buses dropped us off. This is an area of hay meadows, pastures, Picea abies (Norway Spruce) plantation forest and peat bog with natural forest. We started the day walking down a track towards the Sotno Barje peat-bog, passing summer cottages and meadows. Early finds included Veratrum album subsp. lobelianum (Green False Helleborine), Melampyrum sylvaticum (Wood Cow-wheat), Homogyne discolor (a purple Colt’s-foot) and Vaccinium vitis-idaea (Cowberry). Further on, we added Moneses uniflora (One-flowered Wintergreen) and Maianthemum bifolia (May Lily) on a track bank by a plantation, which in turn produced a single stem of the locally scarce Neottia cordata (Lesser Twayblade) and two small clumps of Corallorhiza trifida (Coralroot Orchid). There was also a brief glimpse of a Sciurus vulgaris (Red Squirrel). In all, this was a very exciting start to the day. We now made our way into the peat-bog, where, initially, we added Pinus mugo (Dwarf Mountain Pine), Eriophorum vaginatum (Hare’s-tail Cotton Grass) and Vaccinium oxycoccus (Cranberry). The bog was situated in the middle of a natural forest and had a combination of broad-walks and footpaths. At one point we saw a Common Kestrel with prey, before searching a small meadow adjacent to the bog. Here we found Campanula barbata (Bearded Bellflower), Gymnadenia albida (Small White Orchid) and Arnica montana (Arnica). We took our picnic on the edge of the forest, before continuing on, exploring the road verges and other hillside meadows. The verges produced Genista germanica (German Greenweed), Campanula scheuchzeri (a Bellflower) and Ranunculus platanifolius (a white Buttercup). In the meadows we found large purple patches of Pedicularis verticillata (Verticillate Lousewort), together with Potentilla aurea (Golden Cinquefoil), Gymnadenia conopsea subsp. conopsea (Fragrant Orchid). Insect life was relatively quiet, but we did see the occasional Scotch Argus, and we added two Moths, Silver-ground Carpet and Tawny-barred Angle. We ended the day sampling the delights of a small farm where they produce local cheese. Here we also added Red-backed Shrike, Black Redstart and Northern Raven to the day’s bird list, before rejoining the buses for the return journey to our hotel. Day 5 Monday 24th June Weather: Intermittent rain and low cloud at altitude, becoming dryer later We awoke to torrential rain this morning, but Marija still suggested that we go up to one of the highest local areas called Vogel (1535m).