,00q0NR.NT titONE ill) 188 824 / RC 012 093 , 'AUTROP Kudlas, Joht A TTTLE' The PockClimbing Teacting Guide. _INSTITUTION, American 'Alliance for HealthPhysi611 Education* Pecreatiol4nd Dance(AARPEPD)., p013 DATE- 79 . /V NOTE. - 112p.: Not available in prip4rcopy due to.publisher,a . preference. :AVAILABLE-FPOM: Americat.Ailiance for.HealA,Physical tducation, Recreation, and Dance, 1201SiXeenth Street, N.M*, Washirtaton, DC-20036 ($6.-95) EDPS ptI MF01-.Plus.Postage.PC Not Ayailable frpm EDPS. prscm OP .*Advetture-Educat:ton.:**Cout%e Content: Course Ob.lect.ives:Educaticnal Philosophy:Environmental Eduction: *Egepment:Experiential Learning; Illustfations: *Outdoor Education:*Safety Educatior: SecOlidary tducation: Selfconcept:* Skill DeveloPment:" ,*Teachl,na Guides IDENTIFIERS *Ro0, Cli;lbina. ABSTPACT ,- Thd vroduct ofTO years of rock climbing.instructic")n, thisguide prcvides,;material fromwhich at instructoraan teach basic climbing concepts..and safetyskills as well as conducta safe, enloyable rockCiimbing class ina higlschool setting. It is .desigted.for.an'instructor with.kimiteTexperienceinclimbing: 114614ever, the neekfor teachererttusiasm And patiende is effiphisized'. Also acCented are.'the positiveaspects Pf psychological and physical skill d;e4elopmen-e:For instance., rock 'climbingcan provide a moderate emountiotstress:which can lead.topersonal insight c1 promote self-cbnfidence.: Safetyaspects 4re dealt With it depth,eTphasizing "wliy-.s6methinVihas tb be done.Equipment reeds andcare.are, .discussed ir tepms of bothschool budlets atd.safety. The 13-sess'ion. - course includes.1 class on the uThree--Roint Pulewhich retiustres students to crawior walk.while,movirg only 1limb at a time. Each -.class session tas a' sever.7poirt,format.This guide also includes,i .iong-segbent On constructingartificial climbing walls toprovide experience it Anty locale. (A.N1 "0"--RepItAmptions'supplied by PDPSare the best that can be made * *. -.from the original document. ************************A********************************************* 0 0 c\t S IsAlt MI N V 01 I MI( A flop 141 Al III I Al II "WI "PERMISSION TO FWPRODUCE THIS NAli()N4i1 INcrtrot! Or 0 I f)II(ArION MATERIALIN MICROFICA ONLY. III HAS BEEN GRANTED BY "s A 111I .s I11 I WA IIPP, 'ssl 1 I 41,4 tituoIm PI 14 ., '11,0.\114 A ,sk4(1I4,(,.4.4 ,4()n4, .. I1 (111 "4,, 110 ,. 44$ I 4'1 lir 4141 (111) A ,, A,/, .1,1,r L. UIif TO IHE. EDUCATIONAL RESOURCES INFDIIMATION CENTER (ERIC)," . A To MoM and Dad Vanderhoof Who Belayed Me Well and Encouraged Me to Climb Higher Without My Getting Too Aloft Masculine nouns andpronouns are used in this,Guide for both sexes. Endorsements of brandname pl-oducts represent the opinions of the authoronly. -Copyright 1970 0 1 American Alliake for Health', PhyticalEducation v 4Recreatron and Dante t, t t 1261 SixteenthStreet, N.W.. ' Washington, D.C. 20036 , I. 4 . ti CONTENTS , 'PREFACE vii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS viii 'ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY. 88 APPENDIX . P4rental Permtssion Form . 97 Student Check Sheet , 98 Climbing Record Card (Sheet) 99 , . Platfonil Braces and Emergency Ladder Drawing 106 Clinibing Certifieate , 101 Rock Climbing--Written Test 102 - ' INTRODUCTION PH'ILOSOPHY 1 . 3 OBJECTIVES . 3 SAFETY . Instructional,Attitude : 6 Equipment , , First Aid 7 Decision Making., ' 8 . Weather 1. ... )10 , Areas, 0 10 ffules . , v ,.. 10 EQUIPMENT NEEDS AND CARE risehtials 0 t 12 Inventory 0 13 First Aid Kit Contents . 15 Cost Analys)s 17 Rope Care '. 1 18 , OURSE orSTUDY , 21 Session I=.-Introducing Rock Climbing 21 Session II--Teachin4, Three-Point Rule , 22 or-Session III--Teaching Friction Climbing ., 23 Session IV--Teaching'EquipmentMaintenance., f 4 25 Session V--Teaching TheBecsic Knots 1. 27 Session VI--Teaching Support Systems And Delaying 32 Session VII--Teaching ClimbingSignals , 39 Session VIII--Preparing For lhe Climbing Trip 41 Seision IX--The Climbing Trip..,, 42 Session X--Teaching The Rappelling Basics , 45 Session XI--The Rappelling Outing 51 Session XII--Student Conducted Trip- . 53 Session XIII--Course Evaluation 0 , 54 1 OUTING PROCEDURES 55 %ARTIFICIAL CLIMBING WALLS, 58 History 58 Advantages . 58 . Precautions ; . 59 Rifles For Wa111 Use ' . i 61 The PlyWood Option 61 The Particle Wood Option 62 \ Concrete Rocks . 62 Sandbox Mold 65 . .Fiberglas's Mold' 65 Latek Mold 66 4 Plastic.:Sheet-Plywood Mold 66; Attaching Rocks to the Wall 72 -,. Slab Construction . 75 Platform Construction , 78 The Emergency'Ladder '7 / ADVANCED INSTRUCTION OPPORTUNITIES 82 , e. * 4 4. 6 THEROCKCLIMBINGUSACHINOGUIDU 1 . RREFACE V The exodus of the many pewle, especiallyyoung people, to the out- doors has*offdred physical educatiopa new challe4ge fo l. outdoor leisure education. Rock climbing is only one of the many Outdoor activities that 'can be taught safely within tbe public schools. This with an air of environmental responsibility. \ The enclosed material is the result of 10years of rock climbing instruction at the high school level with More than1000 students, receiviiig ins;ruction. This, in addjtion to the many state and national.' tdacher workshbps Plie conductedover the past several 'years. Instruction, such as. this, based on simplicity hasproven to be safe.' With this safety ....in mind, I've attempted to make thismaterial simple, easy.to Understand, 4nd functional. It is ty hope that thismaterial will be used in its *errtirety and considereda total prbgram. That is, the total instructfonal segment should be read before an attempf is made to teachthe program. This .011 help develop the attitude necessary to successfully and safely teach . the exhilarating sport of.rodk climbing.. included.a segment on artificial climbing wallSso tha.t.a Climbing facility could be constructed to enhanceinstruction anclprovide a. climbing experience; regdrdless of your locale. Here, again, you will' need to devote eXtra time and effort to insurea safe climbing facillity and successful.experiences for students. c< . , . , Welcome', good luck and good climbing. , go 4 0 PRIFACII v11 1. .ACKNOWLEOGMENT$ .- so I I would.like to take this oppt ortunity4o.tharit several'people.for their encouragement, expertiseand assistance. Wi0out'their help, this manual would not be possible. First, my wife, Donna, for herpatience' with my projects and willingness to type "justone one more pate." Withbut her smile and . support this wouIdlhave.bgena Much more diffitult task. Next, Ed Johnson,a former student of-mine who drew all the' illustratiOns.' And Mr. Bob Robinson, who was willingitb take thetime from his busy schedule to.proofread thi's manual. Ahd the many climbers I've hadithe pieasure to work with, including Billagd.Mike Jackson and Or. Don Deaton: .And 'Dr. Dale Cruse,.of,the Universityof Utah, who first gave me ihe in'spiration for this project in hisseminar class. FinPly, Lwould like to.thank the Rochester 'PublicSchools for thC.oppOrtunity to develop a cllmbing.pc-ogram and climbingfacilities. All these'people thould be Consideved prime contributors to the Rock ClimbinsTeachthg Guide. Thank you all. 4 a . N., THE!umCLIMBING TEACHING GUIDE 01: I INTRODUCTION Rock .climbing is-by no means a new sport. Enjoytng a heritage that antedates mountaineering, rdck climbing was regardedas a healthy sport by the Romans. / EmperorHadrian, for example, climbedup the es,ca-rpments of Mount/Etna in 104 A.D. In the 14th century, Petrarch , often'climbed in Provence, , The first climbing school was established at a monastery in France's Dordogne Valleysin 1426. In additidn, King Charles VIII of France, in 1496, established a climbing school and appointed Jean.de Beaupre'as the climiking instructor. In gngland, John Atkinson, in l82.5 devised 'a method ,of rock.climbing to remit lost,sheep. These latter two men mere des.- tined to become the "fathers of rock climbing." Even though climbing equipment and techniques of the mid-1800's A can surely be questioned, this period is referred to.as the "golden he of climbing" with,manY European tourists seeking:to reach the summits 'near'Zermatt. The ropei were shorter and made-of_ioterior material sixth as hemp, flax and cotton. The techniques of."looping the rope" around boulders to anchor climbs and "btidy arrests" to prevent a partner's fall certainly-contributed to the many multiple tragedies. In the United States, Seattle has ledthe wty in rock climbing, with tpe first climbing'wall constructed in 1941 at the William G. Long Camp. Since 1950, the French hove included rack climbing in,thOrcur- riculum on a limited basis, and a decade later the English began incor- porating the sport i5to many of their elementary aad secondary schocils. 'During the past few years there 4isbeen a vast amount of interest in ecology, precipitating the environmental movement and an exodus of adventurous people to,the outddors to discover and investigate more fully and personally nature's wonders. There hat been an attempt to affectively feel this phenomenasand to cognitively understand it and man's 'inter- relations. One of thellWoities that has exploded with its number of partic- ipants is the subject of this-text--rock'climbing. 'No longer is-this invigorating activity limited to a few mountaineers. All age groups and sexes can how part*cipate, depending 'upon their,ability And training. With prctper instructions most individuals can reach the emotional ful- fillment and "environmental discovery" offered by rock climbing. The goal laf this. text is.to provide the instrucpr with a guide so thatihe might better be able to teach these concepts safely