SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG -IJPTE) –Volume 5 Issue 3 Sep to Dec 2018 Comparison of Selected Structural and Performance Attributes of Cotton and Cotton/Polyester Blend T-Shirts Sabrina Saba Marsha, Usha Chowdhary 1Graduate Student, Central Michigan University 2Professor, Central Michigan University Abstract Consumers value care, comfort and durability cotton/polyester blended t-shirts in their washed and while using textile products. This study compared two unwashed forms. structural (fabric thickness and fabric weight) and Several researchers have addressed the four performance (air permeability, bursting strength, impact of fabric structure and care on the mechanical dimensional stability and horizontal wicking) and performance attributes for a variety of fiber attributes of cotton and cotton/polyester blend t-shirts contents ([36], [3], [34], [14]). Some researchers before and after wash. Air permeability and focused on the impact of washing and drying horizontal wicking add to the comfort; bursting conditions on the dimensional stability and distortion strength relates to durability and dimensional of knit fabrics ([42], [17], [3]). Herath and Kang ([23]) stability to care. Microsoft Excel and SPSS were reported that an addition of the elastic materials like executed to analyze the data. The blended t-shirt had spandex to knits can impact dimensional stability. significantly higher air permeability and bursting Reviewed literature provided support for the strength than the cotton t-shirt in unwashed form. For importance of fabric wicking in knitted fabrics ([35]). dimensional stability the only difference was detected Scholars in their literature demonstrate the effect of in the neck opening. T-shirts differed significantly in different polyester knit structures (rib, eyelet, their washed and unwashed forms for structural interlock, and modified interlock) and fabric count on attributes and horizontal wicking. For Dimensional their wicking behaviour ([9]). Cil et al. ([14) stability, the researcher used only the standard examined comfort-related properties of cotton, acrylic detergent for washing. Other detergents available in and cotton-acrylic blends. In general, knit fabrics are the market could be compared. This study revealed used for several apparel items such as hats, socks, t- some useful information that could be used by shirts, lingerie, scarves, ties etc. ([24]). The reason for apparel manufacturers, retailers and consumers. this versatile is increased comfort from flexibility of Other research methods like consumer survey or knits. market research, wear test, and comparison thereof Previous, literature on air permeability can be conducted more comprehensive understand of provided information on its relationship to fabric textiles for its intended uses. construction, and thickness ([44]); porosity/density ([8]) and different fiber content for non-woven Keywords - Air Permeability, Bursting Strength, materials ([16]). Other researchers found that the air Dimensional Stability, Fabric Thickness, Fabric permeability of a single jersey fabric was lower after Weight, Horizontal Wicking, Cotton, Poly/ Cotton, T- washing. Increase in fabric weight and thickness shirts. increase after washing was reported by several scholars ([12], [44], [29]). Koc and Cincik, ([27]) I. INTRODUCTION studied bursting strength of polyester/viscose blended needle-punched nonwoven fabrics. Findings revealed Comfort, care, durability and quality are that the increase of polyester fiber in the mixture important to consumer in apparel. Apparel enhanced the bursting strength. manufacturers consider these attributes plus ease of Previously most of the literature focused on stretch while designing apparel ([43]). Fabrics that the structural and performance attributes of textiles stretch, have air permeability and moisture for non-woven, woven and knitted materials in 100% management, and dimensionally stable after fiber content except for addition of spandex in one refurbishing process serve consumers well ([12], [43], study. None of the reviewed literature compared [33]). Consumer decision-making is based on both washed and unwashed cotton and cotton/polyester structural and performance attributes of an apparel blend for air permeability, bursting strength, product ([12], [21]). The purpose of the reported dimensional stability, fabric thickness, fabric weight study was to examine air permeability, bursting and horizontal wicking. The reported study was strength, dimensional stability, fabric thickness, fabric undertaken to bridge the gap by studying what has weight and horizontal wicking of cotton and 50/50 been ignored in the previously published research. ISSN: 2394 – 2592 http://www.internationaljournalssrg.org Page 40 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG -IJPTE) –Volume 5 Issue 3 Sep to Dec 2018 Ball bursting strength test was introduced in 2015 and intended end use. Badgett ([45]) compared bursting has not been yet reported at all in the previous studies. strength among three brands using the diaphragm Knowledge of both structural and performance inflation burst method and found that all brands attributes is important for making informed decisions differed significantly five laundry cycles. by manufacturers, consumers and retailer for 100% As evident from preceding discussion, very cotton and 50/50 blend from cotton and polyester. limited work is reported on bursting strength. The test reported by Badgett ([45]) used a different standard II. LITERATURE REVIEW than used in the reported study. The diaphragm method is appropriate only for knitted fabrics. The The fast changing demands for comfort in newly introduced ASTM D 6797 – 2015 (used for the fashion has resulted in use of knits in casual apparel current study) can be used for both knitted and woven more extensively than ever before. People use several fabrics ([6]). different criteria while purchasing textile products. Some examples include color, size or fitness, new C. Dimensional Stability trends, comfort, brands, price, quality, customer Dimensional stability is an important textile satisfaction and durability. Strengthening air attribute. To keep a textile clean, it is laundered permeability, bursting strength, dimensional stability, frequently. Laundering can make knitted materials and horizontal wicking can induce fabric comfort, shrink and/or grow. Chowdhary ([12]) compared care, and durability. Therefore, the literature review three brands of t-shirts for their dimensional stability section was organized in the following six categories: along with several other variables with standard and air permeability, bursting strength, dimensional commercial detergents after 25 launderings. Her stability, fabric thickness, fabric weight and findings revealed that post-laundered fabric shrank horizontal wicking. differentially at different body parts, was thicker and heavier and had higher fabric count than the pre- A. Air Permeability laundered state. Differences existed between standard Air permeability is one of the categories and commercial detergents. Badgett ([45]) also used to test fabrics. Bhattacharya and Ajmeri ([8]) evaluated t-shirts and found that the shrinkage in the defined air permeability as the volume of air in lengthwise dimension improved progressively over millilitres, which passed in one second through the course of laundry cycles. 100mm2 of the textile at a pressure variance of 10mm Onal and Candan ([34]) reported that heads of water. They found a positive relationship shrinkage in knitted materials is a severe problem, between air permeability and water vapor and is impacted by relaxation, dyeing and finishing. permeability. Zhu, Kremenakova, Wang and Militky Suh ([42]) noted that stitch length, machine gauge, ([44]) stated that air permeability is one of the most washing and drying method umpact the shrinking important qualities for nonwovens. It varies by ability of knit fabric. Collier and Epps ([18]) porosity and density, thickness, and pressure gradient. mentioned three types of shrinkage which may occure In their study, the result showed that air permeability when testiles are exposed to heat and/or moisture. decreases with an increase in thickness. Air The three types of shrinkage are relaxation, permeability is frequently used in calculating and progressive and thermal shrinkage. Relaxation comparing the passage of air in various coated and shrinkage occurs from the relaxation of stresses uncoated fabrics for several end uses, such as enforced for the period of weaving or knitting of the waterproof coats, tents, and uniform shirting ([29]). fabric,whereas progressive shrinkage is dimensional Ogulata ([32]) stated that fabric weight and change that lasts throughout successive washings. On construction, especially thickness and porosity impact the other hand, thermal shrinkage is restricted to air permeability. textiles composed of thermoplastic filaments, such as acetate, polyester and nylon. Quaynor, Takahashi and B. Bursting Strength Nakajima ([46]) suggested to to consider relaxation Mechanical and physical properties of shrinkage when using knitted materials. knitted fabric influence durability and appearance of Swan & Combs ([39]) reported that textiles. Bursting strength is to the knitted fabrics as consumer satisfaction depends on instrumental and breaking strength is to the woven fabrics. It impacts expressive outcomes when they purchased clothes. durability of fabrics.