Library of Congress Washington, outside and inside. A picture and a narrative of the origin, growth, excellencies, abuses, beauties, and personages of our governing city. By Geo. Alfred Townsend 2 WASHINGTON, OUTSIDE AND INSIDE. A PICTURE AND A NARRATIVE OF THE ORIGIN, GROWTH, EXCELLENCES, ABUSES, BEAUTIES, AND PERSONAGES OF OUR GOVERNING CITY. 55/1337 BY GEO. ALFRED TOWNSEND, “GATH,” AUTHOR OF “THE NEW WORLD COMPARED WITH THE OLD,” AND WASHINGTON CORRESPONDENT OF THE CHICAGO TRIBUNE. “WE do not know of any American newspaper-English which we like better, as English, than that of Mr. Geo. Alfred Townsend. Our readers are not ignorant of Mr. Townsend's services at the Capital, where he has distinguished himself as a hater of shams and friendly to all those measures of political reform to which the better portion of the Republican party is irrevocably committed. It is, to be sure, sometimes easier to be amused by Mr. Townsend's personalities, than to apologize for them; but there is a humor and picturesqueness about them which is nothing less than poetical.”—NEW YORK NATION. JAMES BETTS & CO. HARTFORD, CONN., AND CHICAGO, ILL. S. M. BETTS & CO., CINCINNATI, OHIO. Washington, outside and inside. A picture and a narrative of the origin, growth, excellencies, abuses, beauties, and personages of our governing city. By Geo. Alfred Townsend http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbcb.28587 Library of Congress 1873. F194 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, BY JAMES BETTS & CO., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. From the NEW YORK NATION. “We do not know of any American newspaper-English which we like better, as English, than that of Mr. George Alfred Townsend. Our readers are not ignorant of Mr. Townsend's services at the capital, where he has distinguished himself as a hater of shams and friendly to all those measures of political reform to which the better portion of the Republican party is irrevocably committed. It is, to be sure, sometimes easier to be amused by Mr. Townsend's personalities, than to apologize for them; but there is a humor and picturesqueness about them which is nothing less than poetical.” (5) TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. The Crédit Mobilier investigation of 1873—Excitement in the country over its developments —A review of the causes of our political demoralization—Eminent men affected by the scandal—Two Vice-Presidents and the heads of the important committees scathed—The back pay plunder—How to approach the remedy 21 CHAPTER II. How Washington city came to be. Was it a job or a compromise?—Had Gen. Washington interested motives in locating it?— The land owners and their wrangles—Congress driven out of Philadelphia—The manner of buying the ground—Capital moving—Reminiscences of the site—Character of the early Washington, outside and inside. A picture and a narrative of the origin, growth, excellencies, abuses, beauties, and personages of our governing city. By Geo. Alfred Townsend http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbcb.28587 Library of Congress population—Washington rides out with the commissioners—His mortifications—What the town has cost the Government—Condition of civilization when the city was founded 25 CHAPTER III. The Civil versus the Congressional Service. Which is the most honest?—Many of our evils inherited from colonial times—The constituency often responsible for bad Congressmen—Want of a national spirit— Provincialism in public life—Mr. Holman opposed to astronomy—Friendlessness of the federal institutions—Reasons for the decay of our navy yards—Private ship yards and green timber—The contract-getting Congressmen—Bureau life more responsible than political life—Instances of eminent clerks—Admiral Goldsborough—Dr. William Thornton —Wm. Lambert founds the viii Observatory—John C. Rives—Amos Kendall—Villages of clerks—Clerksville—Howardsville—Mr. Edward D. Neill—Railroad lawyers in the Land Office—Gen. Spinner—Sketch of John J. Knox, the comptroller of the currency 38 CHAPTER IV. The Job of Planning the Federal City. Major L'Enfant, the landscape gardener—Jefferson's influence in the plan of the city— L'Enfant discharged—His lonely life and death—Vindication of his extravagance—His quarrel with Daniel Carroll—Sketch of Andrew Ellicott, L'Enfant's successor—Benjamin Banneker, the negro surveyor—Washington's prediction concerning his namesake city 47 CHAPTER V. The Architects of the Capitol and their feuds. Stephen S. Hallet, the French architect—His claim to have won the premium for the great structure—An examination of his drawings—Want of information about him—Dr. William Thornton the successful architect—His life and versatility—Hallet discharged by the commissioners—Employment of George Hadfield—His public constructions—His criticism upon Thornton's plan—Discharged—Employment of James Hoban—Hoban's career in America—He builds the White House—He is succeeded by Latrobe—Account of that fine architect—He builds the wings—Quarrels with the commissioners—Is succeeded by Chas. Washington, outside and inside. A picture and a narrative of the origin, growth, excellencies, abuses, beauties, and personages of our governing city. By Geo. Alfred Townsend http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbcb.28587 Library of Congress Bulfinch of Boston—Romantic story of Bulfinch—He builds the center, rotunda, and library —Is succeeded by Robt. Mills—Mills builds the old Treasury, Patent-Office, and Post- Office—Is discharged—The stone quarries at Seneca and Acquia Creeks—The new wings designed—Life of Thomas U. Walter, the great classical architect—Cost of materials— Expense of the Capitol—Renown of the great building—Its associations 56 CHAPTER VI. The Lobby and its Gentry. Definition of lobbyist—Jefferson makes the architect screen the lobby—Fine abilities of some lobbyists—Lobbyists relations with newspaper men—The poker-playing lobbyist —Anecdote—The cottonbug scheme to refund the cotton tax—Its failure—Extravagant scheme—Adolph Sutro and his tunnel—He is opposed by the Bank xi dome—Brumidi— The crypt—Associations of the rotunda—Future of the Capitol—The lighting apparatus— Beautiful phenomenon—Other structures compared with our's—Cost of some of the items —A talk with the dome builders—How the war affected the contractor—What he has to say —How a penurious Congress agreed to have a new dome—Pretty romance 137 CHAPTER XII. Some of the Organic Evils of our Congressional System. Broken promises come home to roost—The Congressman seducing his constituent to be an office-getter—An illustration—How Indian treaties are put through—The Indian title to lands—Value of acquaintanceship in Washington—Jobbers taking advantage of the machinery of Government—The Commercial Republican—Mr. Shannon on demagoguery —How rich men buy legislation to save time—The manual of parliamentary rule—Neglect of public business—The boy Speaker —Willie Todd—Thaddy Morris—The Senate Chamber—Cussedness in the Senate—Personal resentment in legislation 149 CHAPTER XIII. The Cheerful Patriot in Washington. A good-natured, nondescript character introduced to show the progress of the times—His comments on the city—His reminiscences of old times—The bad hotels of other days— Washington, outside and inside. A picture and a narrative of the origin, growth, excellencies, abuses, beauties, and personages of our governing city. By Geo. Alfred Townsend http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbcb.28587 Library of Congress Improvement in manners—Temperance and obedience to law—Improved chastity—Decay of cock fighting—More courtesy than in old times—Ground for hope in all directions—His vista of the city 160 CHAPTER XIV. Talk with the Oldest Citizen of Washington. A man who remembers back to 1796—Christian Hines in his ninetieth year—His recollections of the old city—Noble Hurdle, his contemporary—He retraces his steps three- quarters of a century—He recollects all the Presidents—Sees Washington in the Federal City—A very old leaf from the past 167 CHAPTER XV. Style, Extravagance, and Matrimony at the Seat of Government. Cost of living in Washington—Great profligacy in feeding—Jno. Welcker and his celebrated restaurant—The Washington markets—Early xii good times in the history of the city—Beale's, Wetherill's, Crutchet's, Gautier's—Welcker's great dining room—Price of a Congressional dinner—Twenty dollars a plate—His chief cook—Instances of extravagant meals at Washington—Spanish mackerel—Brook trout—Mountain mutton—Canvas backs —Potomac snipe—Potomac shad—Savannah shad—Black bass—Capon au sauce Goddard—Truffles—Hotel life at Washington and New York—Extravagance of politicians —Prices at the Arlington Hotel—The prince's ball—The scene—Dresses of the host and guest—Members of the legation—Romance of the Gerolt family—The Baron's daughter goes to a convent—A blasted matrimonial project—The diplomatic body—Marriages between American girls and foreign ministers—The prose side of the diplomatic corps— Bridal couples at Washington—The diary of a bride who came to see the impeachment trial—A laughable description 17 CHAPTER XVI. Domestic History of the White House. The Presidents and their wives in order—Mrs. Adams's letters—She makes the first description of the interior of the White House—Jefferson runs in debt as President— Washington, outside and inside. A picture and a narrative of the origin, growth, excellencies, abuses, beauties, and personages of our governing city. By Geo. Alfred Townsend http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbcb.28587 Library of Congress Borrows money from the Richmond banks—Mrs. Madison again—Monroe and the era of good feeling—Description of the apartments—State dinners—The wall paper and ornaments—Reminiscences of the house—John Quincy Adams introduces a billiard table —Clothes to dry in the East Room—Jas. Parton on the White House—Portrait painters there—Mrs. Eaton—Jackson's manners—Mary Van Buren—Jackson abuses Congress— Jackson's two forks—Deaths in the White House—John Tyler's bride—Harriet Lane 194 CHAPTER XVII.