Jeans, Leather Jacket, Cowboy Hat: The Costume Design Concept in Berlin around the Corner By Annette Dorgerloh Like no other DEFA film in the 1960s, Berlin um die Ecke (Berlin around the Corner) is influenced by the protagonists’ conflicts between work and free time, young and old, the actions of the characters, as well as the differences between the representatives within one generation. The filmmakers found an expressive visualization for all these constellations. The young people in the film are Berliners and metropolitans, who experience the climax of youth culture in the 1960s, and who are ostracized by the state and virtually forced by existing circumstances into independence. Set and costume design play a significant and not to be underestimated part in the film’s effect. Film historian Alfred Krautz summarized his thoughts about costume and space in his essay, “Kostümkonzeption und Charakterisierung der Figuren” (“The Concept of Costume and the Characterization of Figures”), published by DEFA’s Studio Academy in 1985: The artistic reflections on reality in film “not only provide information and knowledge, but also convey inner attitudes Film Library • A 2016 DVD Release by the DEFA and moral concepts.“1 In this respect, set designers, as well as costume designers, are “Menschenbildner”2 (creators of people) who help to give film figures their characteristics. The ideas about production and costume design, which DEFA theorist Alfred Krautz specified again and again, are still insightful and inspiring today: “Information conveyed by costumes corresponds with information about space, the precise topography, place, and time.”3 This information not only makes it possible to identify time, but also helps to evaluate the images presented on screen. Krautz recognized correctly that “a certain costume creation correlates with the scenographic image.”4 Gerhard Klein’s Berlin around the Corner Berlin around the Corner is a perfect example of a correlation between space, character, and costume. The question is, how costume designer • Barbara Braumann and set designer Alfred Drosdek—in collaboration with the director and cameraman—were able to create spaces of action assigned to the characters of the protagonists, and costumes as a discernable second skin of the characters. Costume designer Barbara Braumann created over 50 designs for cinema and television productions, including the DEFA classics Die Legende von Paul und Paula (The Legend of Paul and Paula, GDR, 1972, dir. Heiner Carow), Für die Liebe Berlin around the Corner noch zu mager (Too Young for Love, GDR, 1973, dir. Bernhard Stephan), the sci-fi Eolomea (GDR, 1972, dir. Herrmann Zschoche), the elaborate costume dramas Wer reißt denn gleich vorm Teufel aus? (Who Is Afraid of the Devil?, GDR, 1977, dir. Egon Schlegel) and Zille und ick (Zille and Me, GDR, 1983, dir. Werner W. Wallroth); each single costume design was a new challenge.5 As a child, Barbara Braumann knew exactly what she would like to be. She was a student when she won a painting competition in her home town of Magdeburg. “The award was a trip to Berlin, where I saw amazing cinema advertising. Everything sparkled. I was convinced I would design costumes for films, and I worked towards this goal.”6 Although she was not happy to learn that being an apprentice tailor was necessary for admission to the Kunsthochschule (Academy of Arts) in Berlin-Weißensee, she became a costume and theater tailor. While still a student, she presented her portfolio to the DEFA Studio in Potsdam-Babelsberg and applied there. Finally, she got her dream job. “I spent half of my life at the Marlene Dietrich Atelier,“ Barbara Braumann remembers in a 2008 article.7 The personalities of the characters in Berlin around the Corner are shaped by their habitus. In seconds, the audience subconsciously analyzes the appearance of the performers through facial expression, body posture, and, most impor- tantly, fashion. The Italian director, Michelangelo Antonioni, described the work of a costume designer as “a work of Jeans, Leather Jacket, Cowboy Hat: The Costume Design Concept in 1 Krautz, Alfred. “Kostümkonzeption und Charakterisierung der Figuren, dargestellt an neueren DEFA-Filmen.“ Aus Theorie und Praxis des Films. Potsdam-Babelsberg: Betriebsakademie des DEFA-Studios für Spielfilme, 1985. Issue 1. 7. 2 Ibid., 9. 3 Ibid., 6. 4 Ibid., 6. 5 See: Jäger, Heidi. “Sie machte Paula schön. Kostümbildnerin Barbara Braumann übergab ihre Sammlung dem Filmmuseum.“ Potsdamer Neueste Nachrichten, February 22, 2008. 6 Ibid. 7 Ibid. 1 Jeans, Leather Jacket, Cowboy Hat: The Costume Design Concept in Berlin around the Corner indication and interpretation of the reason why the film was created and of the protagonists who act in the film.”8 The film’s protagonists, Olaf, Horst and Karin, are young people who want to achieve more in their lives than just working according to existing rules; they want to create their own rules and future within the limits of their own possibilities. The characters are distinguished by their habitus and their ‘rebellious’ clothes. Although these are their everyday clothes, which they wear in their private and work lives, they also represent an expression of the imminent generational conflict. Cool boys: Jeans, leather jacket and a black turtleneck sweater One of the first scenes shows Olaf and Horst on the roof of one of the new, architecturally significant buildings of the former Stalinallee in Berlin, renamed Karl Marx Allee (only in 1961). Using the elevator, they moved an old couch upstairs that they were asked to dispose of. They jump happily on the piece of furniture. The camera zooms in on the two boys, and one can see that they wear blue jeans; in addition, Olaf wears a black leather jacket, which he does not let go of until the Film Library • A 2016 DVD Release by the DEFA end of the movie. The jacket defines the young boy even more than the jeans that get mentioned at various times. Jeans,9 are an obvious statement that the boys make. Both wear brand-name jeans,9 which were not easy to obtain after the building of the Wall in 1961.10 In addition, jeans were officially labeled in the GDR as an expression of “American lack of culture, Texan ideology and culture of rangers.”11 For GDR officials, jeans had a negative connotation. In the short period of relative freedom before the 11th Plenum of the SED Party in 1965, the production of a jeans-like fabric Berlin around the Corner was considered and the emotive term ‘jeans’ was officially used in GDR fashion magazines. For example, the magazine • Saison published a pattern for a dress made of “blue cotton,“ a jeans-like fabric called Cottino in 1964. Mail order com- panies also tried to keep up with the increasing demand for denim clothing.12 The GDR’s textile industry was not able to effectively react in a timely manner to the demands, and many years passed until the GDR would set up their own jeans production. Although the fabric of the jeans came close to its American original, the cut was not comparable.13 “Jeans are a statement; not simply trousers!” These were the words of anti-hero Edgar Wibeau in Ulrich Plenzdorf‘s novel, Die neuen Leiden des jungen W. (The New Sorrows of Young W.), published in 1972. However, Wibeau‘s idea had already been reality Berlin around the Corner in GDR youth culture for quite some time. In the opening scene of Berlin around the Corner, director Gerhard Klein shows the young workers, Olaf and Horst, dressed in jeans. This is a direct reference to his earlier Berlin films, in which the young heroes wear jeans and make a conscious fashion statement.14 Not only Klein let his heroes put on jeans, audience darling Manfred Krug appeared in jeans—the item of clothing rejected by party officials—on screen in the 1961 DEFA film Auf der Sonnenseite (On the Sunny Side, dir. Ralf Kirsten). In contrast to the rather underrepresented jeans in the film, Olaf‘s leather jacket carries an even more important meaning. The black leather jacket is like a second skin. Barbara Braumann’s design sketches give an idea about the jacket’s gene- alogy. Obviously, a pale jacket was planned at first, but on the final design of a darker jacket, one reads the handwritten 8 Antonioni, Michelangelo. „Una intervista.“ La moda e il costume nel film. Roma: Edizioni Bianco e Nero, 1950. S. 111. Quoted in: Krautz, Alfred. „Filmszenographie und Kostümbild. Kommentierte Quellen.“ Aus Theorie und Praxis des Films. Potsdam-Babelsberg: Betriebsakademie des DEFA-Studio für Spielfilme, 1980. Issue 2. 100. 9 The so-called original jeans, including Levis and Wrangler, were the most appreciated jeans. See: Menzel, Rebecca. Jeans in der DDR. Vom tieferen Sinn einer Freizeithose. Berlin: Ch. Links Verlag, 2004. Especially the chapter “Jeans in einem jeanslosen Land (1961-67).” 52-89. 10 Although Exquisit-Läden (Exquisite shops) opened in 1962 and sold high-quality clothes—imported or domestic products—for high prices, jeans were instead available in Intershops that opened at the same time. These shops sold West German products for hard currencies, including West German marks or dollars. GDR citizens were only allowed to enter these shops with western relatives or if they possessed the requested currencies. GDR citizens were allowed to hold these currencies and were not Jeans, Leather Jacket, Cowboy Hat: The Costume Design Concept in obligated to give information about how they obtained the money. It was only important that this kind of money ended up in state accounts. Later, this currency became important in the GDR for paying handymen who were difficult to find or for paying for rare replacement parts for cars.