Romania – The Wildlife of Transylvania Naturetrek Tour Report 9 - 16 June 2012 Brown Bear Lesser Spotted Eagle Lace Border Moth - Scopula ornata Tortoise Beetle species – Chrysomelidae sp Report & images compiled by Alan Outen Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Romania – The Wildlife of Transylvania Tour Leaders: Alan Outen Botanist & Entomologist Dan Marin Bird Leader Simona Bureta Local Guide Participants: Ian Sanderson Christopher O'Connor-Thompson Anthea O'Connor-Thompson Anne Beeks Peter Tye Kay Tye Gwen Holyman David Burleigh Olga Burleigh John Skeavington Kevin Taylor Norma Taylor Hilary Chadwick Day 1 Saturday 9th June Depart Heathrow to Budapest transfer to Mosorel Guest House, Magura village via Zarnesti. Sunny, warm and dry c. 30°C After our flight from Heathrow we landed safely in Bucharest at 16.40 and with all luggage safely reclaimed we emerged from the airport into warm bright sunshine to be met by Simona, our local guide. By 17.40 we were on our way. Our journey took us through the outskirts of Bucharest, north-west across flat agricultural plains and then up into the mountains. Soon after leaving the town we saw our first White Stork, later in the journey stopping for a chance to photograph one on its nest. Eventually we arrived at our guest house where we were met by our hosts George and his wife Oana. After rooms were allocated we enjoyed a welcome evening meal. Day 2 Sunday 10th June Walk from Magura to Zarnesti Gorge, Piatra Craiului National Park. Sunny, warm and dry c. 30°C As always on this tour it proved worthwhile first thing in the morning to check the walls of the hotel for moths attracted to light overnight. This morning these included Ghost Swift, Green Silver Lines, Lace Border, Blackneck, Treble Lines, Eilema palliatella (an eastern European Footman species), as well as both Beautiful and Light Brocade. An early morning walk before breakfast also gave us the opportunity to see the richness of the flora on our doorstep including Nottingham Catchfly, Spreading Bellflower, Bladder Gentian, Globeflower and Sticky Catchfly, as well as our first three orchid species Bug, Fragrant and Green Winged. Birds included Fieldfare, Common Redstart, White Wagtail, Marsh Tit, and Hawfinch with both sexes of Cuckoo heard. Woodland Ringlet Butterfly and a Cockchafer provided further entomological interest. © Naturetrek June 13 1 Romania – The Wildlife of Transylvania Tour Report After a good breakfast we set out to walk down the hillside to the Zarnesti Gorge in the Piatra Craiului National Park. Taking a series of short cuts we passed through a diverse range of habitats that enabled us to see a wide diversity of plant and insect species. The former included Orange Hawkweed (Hieracium aurantiacum), Alpine Bellflower (Campanula alpina), Ragged Robin (Lychnis flos-cuculi), Dusky Cranesbill (Geranium phaeum), Martagon Lily, Broad-leaved Marsh Orchid (Dactylorhiza majalis), Twayblade (Listera ovata), Round-headed Orchid (Traunsteinera globosa) and Bird's-nest Orchid (Neottia nidus-avis); whilst among the latter were Small Copper, Small Heath, Black-veined and Speckled Yellow moths, Garden Chafer beetles, Red and Black Froghopper (Cercopsis vulnerata) and Scorpion-flies. Birds included Alpine Swift and another Hawfinch whilst Yellow-bellied Toads were new to many of the group. Arriving at the bottom of the hill we started along the foot of the spectacular gorge. The flora here was rich in interesting and exciting species among them Swallow-wort (Vincetoxicum hirundinaria), Asarum europaeum, Large Red Dead Nettle (Lamium garganicum), Nettle-leaved Speedwell (Veronica urticifolia), Water Avens (Geum rivale), Spoon-leaved Saxifrage (Saxifraga cuneifolium), Alternate-leaved Golden Saxifrage (Chrysosplenium altentifolium), Alpine Bells (Cortusa matthiola), Hungarian Snowbell (Soldanella hungarica), Yellow Wood Violet (Viola biflora), both Crested and Verticillate Louseworts (Pedicularis comosa and P. verticillata), and the endemics Symphytum cordatum and Aquilegia transylvanica. Fungi included the toadstool species Kuehneromyces mutabilis, Wood Blewit (Lepista nuda) and Coprinellus impatiens. Insects were also noted with the butterflies including Camberwell Beauty, Orange Tip and Woodland Ringlet. Several day flying moths were also seen, among them Chimney Sweeper, and Burnished Brass. Birds here included Dipper, Mistle Thrush, both White and Grey Wagtails and Red-backed Shrike. Warm weather and spectacular scenery were also greatly appreciated. With everyone well satisfied we returned to our waiting coach and made our way slowly back up to our hillside. After dinner the completion of the lists took some time following such a productive day. Day 3 Monday 11th June Diana Meadows, Coltii Chiliei. Sunny, warm and dry c 30°C Overnight moths this morning included several also seen the previous morning with the addition of Buff Ermine, Purple Bar, White-banded Carpet, Orache Moth and an Eastern European species Ochrostigma melagona. The pre-breakfast walk today was also most noteworthy for the insects seen with Painted Lady, Birch Shieldbug, a large handsome Rove Beetle species Staphylinus caesarius and a large stonefly species Isoperla grammatica the highlights. Birds were rather disappointing with just Red-backed Shrike, Mistle Thrush, Jay, Magpie, Goldfinch and Marsh Tit and a calling Coal Tit. Following breakfast we walked down the slope from the guest house to where the bus was waiting to take us to the start of our day's walk through the Diana Meadows. We set out on our walk, initially between arable fields and then across the flower rich hill slopes. Here Meadow Clary (Salvia pratensis) was abundant and made a spectacular show on the hill slopes with Whorled Clary also present. Among other plants here were Alpine Pansy (Viola alpina), as well as Viola declinata, Melampyrum biharense, Sainfoin (Onobrychis viciifolia), Purple Viper's-grass (Scorzonera purpurea), Yellow Melancholy Thistle, some fine Broad-leaved Marsh Orchids (Dactylorhiza majalis), and many Fragrant Orchids. The best of the butterflies seen were Scarce Copper and Hungarian Glider with Latticed Heath, Treble Bar, Speckled Yellow and Penthophora morio among the day-flying moths. Buzzards and more Red- backed Shrikes were seen whilst Corncrake was heard. 2 © Naturetrek June 13 Romania – The Wildlife of Transylvania Tour Report We rounded a bend in the path to find Simona, and her mother had set up a table with a splendid picnic. We had arrived rather earlier than she had anticipated based on last year's progress, but although only 11.45am, people needed no persuasion to eat now rather than explore further! After all had eaten and drunk as much as they wanted we continued on finding Green Hairstreak, Mazarine Blue, False Heath Fritillary, Brimstone, Swallowtail and Clouded Apollo butterflies. A Pine Hawkmoth and Viviparous Lizard were also welcome additions to the list. There were plenty more new plants, among them Winged Broom (Chamaespartium sagittale), Viper's Bugloss, Greater Meadow Rue, Whorled Solomon's Seal (Polygonatum verticillatum), May Lily (Maianthemum bifolium), Common Spotted, Lesser Butterfly, some white-flowered Fragrant Orchids and Burnt-tip Orchid (Orchis ustulata) as well as more Twayblade, Bug and Round-headed Orchids. Other birds seen during the walk included Turtle Dove, Woodlark, Skylark, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Linnet, Golden Oriole, Yellowhammer, Nutcracker and Raven. Eventually the path we were on took us down to the road where the coach was waiting for us. Dinner this evening was at George's mother's guest house in Zarnesti and taken early as we were going on for an evening excursion to look for Beavers. In Zarnesti we added Tree Sparrow to the bird list and left here at 6pm to drive to Chilieni arriving at 7.30pm. Unfortunately we failed to see any Beavers but some compensation was provided by Marsh Warbler and excellent sightings of Little Bittern and a very obliging and vocal Cuckoo. Marsh Frogs were even noisier and also seen but the only additional birds were Coot and Mallard. Plants that attracted attention included Crown Vetch and Scotch Thistle, whilst the Flower Chafer Oxthyrea funesta was also noted. With midges beginning to become a nuisance we left here at 8.45pm eventually arriving back at the guesthouse at about 10.45pm Day 4 Tuesday 12th June Narcissus Forest and Meadows of Poina Vadului. Evening visit to bear hide at Sinca Valley. Sunny, hot and dry c. 34°C Our routine morning check of the guest house walls for moths added Pale Prominent, Clay, Peppered, Ochraceous Wave, Scorched Wing and Goat Moth to the list. The latter is not often found at light in the UK and is among the heaviest of our British species. The pre-breakfast walk was most noteworthy for the finding of five Chamois on the cliffs across the valley which we spent some time observing. After breakfast we headed for the Narcissus Forest and meadows of Poina Vadului. Arriving at the forest we soon recorded Hoopoe and Tree Pipit, followed during the course of the morning by Golden Oriole, Goldcrest, Hawfinch and Lesser Spotted Eagle among others, though Wood Warbler was only heard. The diggings of Wild Boar were much in evidence and Dan also pointed out the tracks of Badger, Bear and Wild Boar. Sand Lizard, Yellow-bellied Toad, the caterpillar of Dark Tussock Moth, Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary and Small Heath butterflies provided additional animal interest whilst Botanists enjoyed the blue colour form of Spiked Rampion (Phyteuma spicata ssp caerulea), Swallowwort, False White Helleborine, Common Cow-wheat in an interesting two coloured form and many more. Blusher (Amanita rubescens) and Greasy Buttercap (Collybia butyracea) were among the Fungi seen. After another of Simona's excellent picnics, which included nectarines and strawberries, was enjoyed in the shade of the trees, we looked at some grassland areas where the plants included Sticky Catchfly, Yellow Loosestrife and Erigeron annuus with Charcoal Burner (Russula cyanoxantha) and the Hoof Bracket (Fomes fomentarius) additions to the Fungi list.