©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Mongolia Northern Mongolia Western p129 Mongolia p206 Ulaanbaatar p56 #_ Eastern Mongolia Central p160 Mongolia p98 The Gobi p179 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Michael Kohn, Anna Kaminski, Daniel McCrohan Remember to run the 4C > 2C script for 2 colour books (the colour of the Plan banner must reflect the Plan section) PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Mongolia . 4 ULAANBAATAR . 56 Amarbayasgalant Khiid . 136 Mongolia Map . .6 Sights . 58 Bulgan . 138 Activities . 71 Mongolia’s Top 14 . .8 Erdenet . 138 Courses . 71 Need to Know . .16 Bulgan City . 141 Festivals & Events . 72 If You Like . .18 Khövsgöl . 143 Sleeping . 73 Mörön . 143 Month by Month . 20 Eating . 77 Itineraries . 23 Khövsgöl Nuur Drinking & Nightlife . 82 National Park . 147 Outdoor Activities . 28 Entertainment . 84 Chandman-Öndör . 154 Organised Tours . 35 Shopping . 87 Darkhad Depression . 155 Road Trip . 40 Mörön to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur . 158 Trans-Mongolian CENTRAL Railway . 46 MONGOLIA . 98 Naadam . 50 Töv . 99 EASTERN MONGOLIA . 160 Regions at a Glance . 53 Zuunmod . 99 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Khentii . 162 Protected Area . 102 Chinggis Khot BRUNO MORANDI/GETTY IMAGES © Nalaikh . 104 (Öndörkhaan) . 162 Terelj Area . 105 Khökh Nuur . 165 Gachuurt . 109 Baldan Baraivun Khiid . 165 Khustain Öglögchiin Kherem . 165 National Park . 110 Binder . 166 Övörkhangai . 111 Dadal . 166 Arvaikheer . .111 Dornod . 169 Kharkhorin Choibalsan . 169 (Karakorum) . 113 Kherlen Bar Khot . 171. West of Kharkhorin . 119 Buir Nuur . 172 East of Kharkhorin . 121 COSTUMED PERFORMER Khalkhiin Gol . 172 AT NAADAM (P50) Arkhangai . 122 Sükhbaatar . 174 Tsetserleg . 122 Baruun-Urt . 174 Tsenkher Hot Springs . 125 PETER DEMARCO/GETTY IMAGES © Dariganga . 176 Tsetserleg to Tariat . 126 Shiliin Bogd Uul . 177 Tariat . 126 THE GOBI . .179 NORTHERN MONGOLIA . 129 Dundgov . .181 Mandalgov . 181 Selenge . .131 Baga Gazryn Chuluu . 183 Sükhbaatar . 132 Süm Khökh Burd . 184 Altanbulag . 133 Erdenedalai . 184 Dulaankhaan . 133 Ongiin Khiid . 184 WALL OF ERDENE ZUU Darkhan . 134 KHIID (P114) Ikh Gazryn Chuluu . 186 Remember to run the 4C > 2C script for 2 colour books (the colour of the Plan banner must reflect the Plan section) Contents UNDERSTAND Mongolia DAVID SANTIAGO GARCIA/GETTY IMAGES © Today . 234 History . 236 The Mongolian Way of Life . 247 Traditional Gers . 250 Spiritualism in Mongolia . 253 Mongolian Cuisine . 256 Tribal Mongolia . 258 CAMEL RIDING, GOBI DESERT (P179) Wild Lands & Wildlife . .260 Dornogov . 187 Tolbo Nuur . 217 Sainshand . 187 Tsambagarav Uul SURVIVAL Ikh Nartiin Chuluu . 189 National Park . 217 GUIDE Zamyn-Üüd . 190 Khovd . 217 Ömnögov . .191 Khovd City . 218 Directory A–Z . 266 Dalanzadgad . 191 Khar Us Nuur National Park . .220 Gurvan Saikhan Transport . 279 National Park . 193 Chandmani . 221 Health . 292 Bayanzag . 197 Tsenkheriin Agui . 221 Language . 296 Bayankhongor . 199 Mönkh Khairkhan National Park . 222 Bayankhongor City . 199 Index . 304 Uvs . 223 Bayangovi . 201 Ulaangom . 223 Map Legend . 311 Amarbuyant Khiid . .202 Uvs Nuur . 225 Ekhiin Gol . .202 Üüreg Nuur . .226 Gov-Altai . 202 Kharkhiraa Uul & Altai . .203 Türgen Uul . .226 Great Gobi Strictly Khökh Nuur . 227 Protected Area . .205 Uvsiin Khar Us Nuur . 227 Eej Khairkhan Nature Reserve . .205 Achit Nuur . 227 Khyargas Nuur SPECIAL National Park . .228 FEATURES WESTERN Zavkhan . 228 MONGOLIA . 206 Organised Tours . 35 Uliastai . .228 Road Trip . 40 Bayan-Ölgii . 208 Zagastain Davaa . 231 Ölgii . .208 Otgon Tenger Uul Trans-Mongolian Sagsai . 213 Strictly Protected Area . .231 Railway . 46 Tsengel . 213 Tosontsengel . 231 Naadam . 50 Altai Tavan Bogd National Park . 214 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 23 Itineraries ULAANBAATAR Gorkhi-Terelj National Park ÷# Chinggis Khustain ULAANBAATAR Khaan É National #_ É Statue Park É •# ÷# É É É É •# Mandshir Khiid TÖV 1 WEEK Around Ulaanbaatar Short trips from Ulaanbaatar can offer a taste of the countryside without having to invest too much time travelling along endless country roads. From UB, head to Khustain National Park for the night to watch the wild takhi horses. Back in Ulaanbaatar, catch a ride to Mandshir Khiid in Töv aimag, from where you can hike back over the mountain to Ulaanbaatar. This can be done either as a full day trip or as an overnight hike. Next, head east to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. There are a number of activity options here, including mountain biking, horse riding, rock climbing, hiking and river rafting. You can even learn the art of cheese-making from Bert, the Dutch cheesemaker. If you have your own vehicle, push on a little further east to see the enormous Chinggis Khaan Statue at Tsonjin Boldog. Back in Ulaanbaatar, leave one day for visiting the National Museum of Mongolia, Gandan Khiid and the Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan. 24 RUSSIA Üüreg Nuur •# Altai Ulaangom Tavan Bogd •# PLAN YOUR TRIP National Park •# ÷# Sagsai Kharkhiraa É Gol •# •# UVS É É É Tsengel •#Ölgii BAYAN- É ÖLGII KHÖVSGÖL •# É Khoton ÷# Khyargas Nuur Nuur National Park R Dörgön Tsambagarav •# Uul É It I ner ar •# É Khovd ÷# Khar Us Nuur National Park ZAVKHAN É I •# es •# Uliastai CHINA Chandmani É Ikh Agui •# KHOVD R Otgon Tenger GOV-ALTAI Uul 4 WEEKS Western Mongolia The western aimags offer adventurous travel and exploration. Adrenalin junkies can break out the mountain bike, kayak or mountaineering gear. Start with a flight to Khovd, from where you can hire a jeep and driver for a birdwatching and wildlife ex- pedition to Khar Us Nuur National Park. At nearby Chandmani, visit the renowned throat singers. Stop by Dörgön sum (district) for the chance to meet Megjin, a bona fide Green Tara (enlightened Buddha). Looping back through Khovd, continue northwest to the beautiful pastures and valley around Tsambagarav Uul. You could easily spend a couple of days here before moving on to Ölgii, a great place to recharge your batteries. Heading west from Ölgii, spend three to four days around Altai Tavan Bogd Na- tional Park. With proper equipment and permits it’s even possible to scale Mongolia’s highest peak, the 4374m Tavan Bogd, though a visit to the base camp and glacier is more feasible. With more time, consider doing a horse trek around Khoton Nuur. On the way to or from Tavan Bogd, stop in Tsengel or Sagsai, authentic Kazakh vil- lages that offer a taste of life in the Wild West. A few families here keep eagles and it may be possible to meet them. From Sagsai it’s even possible to go rafting back to Ölgii. The best time to make this journey is in late September or early October, which gives you the chance to watch the spectacular Eagle Festival in Ölgii or Sagsai. From Ölgii, the main road winds northeast, passing Üüreg Nuur, another gorgeous camping spot, en route to Ulaangom. Allow a week for trekking around Kharkhiraa Gol. An experienced driver can get you from Ulaangom to Uliastai, visiting Khyargas Nuur National Park and Ikh Agui cave en route. If you arrive at Khyargas Nuur before mid-September, you’ll have a chance to see hundreds of squawking cormorants at Khetsuu Khad. From Uliastai you can take a horse-riding or hiking trip to Otgon Tenger Uul. Catch a flight back to Ulaanbaatar from Uliastai, or spend a few more days and go overland. 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP ItIner arIes JANE SWEENEY/GETTY IMAGES © Ulaanbaatar Bayanzag(p197) Top: Camelherding, Top: the Bogd Khan (p69), Khan(p69), Bogd the Right: Winter Palace of Winter Right: TED WOOD/GETTY IMAGES © 26 Mongol Daguur B Strictly Protected Area ÷# É RUSSIA Ugtam Uul ÷# É É PLAN YOUR TRIP É CHINA SELENGE Dadal É •# Baldan É Khalkhiin Baraivun Choibalsan Gol •# •# Khiid É •# KHENTII •# ULAANBAATAR É •# É #_ •# Khökh Nuur Kherlen Bar Khot DORNOD ÷# Chinggis •# It Nömrög É ÷# Khaan Chinggis Khot Strictly I ner ar Dornod TÖV Statue (Öndörkhaan) •# Protected É Mongol Area Baruun-Urt Strictly SÜKHBAATAR Protected Area É É I es DORNOGOV •# DUNDGOV Dariganga Sainshand É •# •# Khamaryn Khiid 3 WEEKS Eastern Mongolia Eastern Mongolia offers a delightful romp through grasslands, forest and some unique historical sights. Best of all, it’s almost completely devoid of tourists. In a hired jeep, head east from UB and pass the new Chinggis Khaan Statue on the way to Khökh Nuur, a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation of the great khaan. Continue northeast, visiting the restored monastery of Baldan Baraivun Khiid and nearby sights as you travel through Khentii’s scenic countryside. There are ger camps all along this route where you can stop for horse-riding trips in the mountains. Take a break in Dadal, a handsome village with horse-trekking options and an excellent naadam. Following the Ulz Gol further east, you’ll pass pretty Buriat villages and nature re- serves including Ugtam Uul. If you’re interested in meeting a shaman you may be fortu- nate enough to get the opportunity by asking around in this area. It’s possible to continue northeast towards Chuluunkhoroot to visit Mongol Daguur B Strictly Protected Area, a protected area for wader birds. From northern Dornod, sweep south towards Choibalsan; some routes go via the ancient ruins at Kherlen Bar Khot. The adventurous can push further east across the empty steppes to Khalkhiin Gol, a remote landscape of lakes, rivers, wildlife and historical sights. Highlights include a giant Buddha statue carved into a hillside and numerous WWII memorials. You’ll need another couple of days to visit the lush Nömrög Strictly Protected Area. From Nömrög, tackle the rough terrain in Dornod Mongol Strictly Protected Area to spot some truly massive herds of gazelle. The Dariganga region, with its sand dunes, cinder cones and scattered stone statues, requires two or three days. Horse trekking is possible here. If you’re in the area in early October, you’ll catch the large migration of swans at Ganga Nuur.