©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Thailand Chiang Mai Province p304 Northern Thailand p191 Northeastern Thailand Central p364 Thailand p155 Bangkok & Around Ko Chang & p58 Eastern Seaboard p444 Hua Hin & the Upper Gulf p484 Phuket & the Andaman Ko Samui Coast & the p587 Lower Gulf p517 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Mark Beales, Tim Bewer, Joe Bindloss, Austin Bush, David Eimer, Bruce Evans, Damian Harper, Isabella Noble PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Thailand . 6 BANGKOK Thong Pha Phum National Park . 186 Thailand Map . 8 & AROUND . 58 E-Thong . 187 Thailand’s Top 20 . 10 Khao Laem Need to Know . 22 CENTRAL National Park . 187 First Time Thailand . 24 THAILAND . 155 Sangkhlaburi . 187 What’s New . 26 Ayuthaya Province . 158 If You Like… . 27 Ayuthaya . 158 NORTHERN Month by Month . 30 Around Ayuthaya . 167 THAILAND . 191 Itineraries . 33 Lopburi Province . 167 Lamphun Province . 195 Lopburi . 167 Activities . 40 Lamphun . 195 Kanchanaburi Eat & Drink Like a Local . 42 Doi Khun Tan Province . 172 National Park . 197 Choose Your Beach . 46 Kanchanaburi . 173 Lampang Province . 197 Travel with Children . 51 Around Kanchanaburi . 183 Lampang . 198 Regions at a Glance . 54 Thong Pha Phum . 186 Around Lampang . 203 TRAVEL INK / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / INK TRAVEL © IMAGES GETTY / PATISENA KAMPEE WAT PHO P64, BANGKOK ANUJAK JAIMOOK / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / JAIMOOK ANUJAK RICE FIELDS P321, CHIANG MAI Contents Chiang Rai Province . .. 205 Around Nan . 245 San Kamphaeng Chiang Rai . 205 Phitsanulok Province . 246 & Bo Sang . 360 Ban Ruam Mit Phitsanulok . 246 San Kamphaeng Hot Springs . 361 & Around . 215 Phu Hin Rong Kla Mae Salong National Park . 252 Hang Dong . 361 (Santikhiri) . 216 Sukhothai Province . 254 Ban Tawai . 361 Mae Sai . 219 Sukhothai . 254 Doi Inthanon National Park . 361 Chiang Saen . .. 223 Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Sop Ruak . 226 Historical Park . 262 Chiang Khong . 228 Kamphaeng Phet NORTHEASTERN Phayao Province . 233 Province . 265 THAILAND . 364 Phayao . 233 Kamphaeng Phet . 265 Upper Isan . 365 Phrae Province . 235 Tak Province . 268 Loei Province . 365 Phrae . .. 235 Mae Sot . 269 Nong Khai . .. 376 Nan Province . 239 Mae Sot to Um Phang . 274 West of Nong Khai . 382 Nan . 239 Um Phang & Around . 274 Udon Thani Province . 384 Mae Sot to Bueng Kan Province . 391 Mae Sariang . 277 Nakhon Phanom Mae Hong Son Province . 393 Province . 278 Mukdahan Province . 398 Pai . 278 Lower Isan . 401 Soppong . 288 Nakhon Ratchasima Around Soppong . 289 (Khorat) . 401 Mae Hong Son . 290 Around Nakhon Around Mae Hong Son . 297 Ratchasima . 407 Khun Yuam . 299 Phimai . 408 Mae Sariang . .. 300 Khao Yai National Park . 410 Around Mae Sariang . 303 Sung Noen . 413 Buriram Province . 414 CHIANG MAI Surin Province . 417 PROVINCE . 304 Si Saket . 422 Chiang Mai . 306 Ubon Ratchathani Province . 422 Northern Chiang Mai Province . 354 Central Isan . 432 Mae Rim . 354 Khon Kaen Province . 432 Mae Sa–Samoeng Roi Et . .. 440 Loop . 354 Chiang Dao . 355 KO CHANG & EASTERN Doi Ang Khang . .. 357 SEABOARD . 444 Fang . 358 Bang Saen . 445 Tha Ton . 358 Si Racha . 448 Southern Chiang Mai WAT PHRA THAT DOI KONG Ko Si Chang . 450 Province . 360 MU P294, MAE HONG SON Pattaya . 451 ON THE ROAD Rayong & Ban Phe . 456 Hua Hin . 493 Ko Tao . 555 Ko Samet . 457 Hua Hin to Pranburi . .. 503 Ang Thong Marine Chanthaburi . 462 Pranburi & Around . 504 National Park . 570 Trat . .465 Khao Sam Roi Yot Surat Thani Province . 571 Ko Chang . 468 National Park . 505 Surat Thani . 571 Ko Wai . 479 Prachuap Nakhon Si Thammarat Khiri Khan . .. 507 Province . 574 Ko Mak . 480 Ban Krut & Bang Ao Khanom . 574 Ko Kut . 482 Saphan Yai . 511 Nakhon Si Thammarat . 576 Chumphon . 513 Songkhla Province . 578 HUA HIN & Songkhla & Around . .. 578 THE UPPER GULF . 484 KO SAMUI & Hat Yai . 579 Phetchaburi THE LOWER GULF . 517 Deep South . 581 (Phetburi) . .. 486 Gulf Islands . 520 Pattani . 582 Kaeng Krachan National Park . 490 Ko Samui . 520 Narathiwat . 583 Cha-am . 491 Ko Pha-Ngan . 538 Sungai Kolok . 585 LEELAKAJONKIJ / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / LEELAKAJONKIJ © IMAGES GETTY / OGLE STEVE ROYAL PARK RAJAPRUEK P321, CHIANG MAI ANNAPURNA MELLOR / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / MELLOR ANNAPURNA SAIREE BEACH, KO TAO P555 Contents UNDERSTAND PHUKET & THE Khao Lak & Around . .. 602 Thailand Today . 704 ANDAMAN COAST . 587 Similan Islands Marine History & Politics . 707 National Park . 606 Ranong Province . 590 Natai . 608 People & Culture . 721 Ranong . 590 Ao Phang-Nga . 609 Ko Chang . 593 Food & Drink . 733 Phuket Province . 613 Ko Phayam . 594 Arts & Architecture . 740 Phuket Town . 618 Laem Son Environment & National Park . 596 Ko Sireh . 625 Wildlife . 752 Phang-Nga Province . 597 Laem Phanwa . 625 Khuraburi . 597 Rawai . .. 625 Surin Islands Marine Hat Kata . 628 National Park . 598 Hat Karon . 633 Ko Phra Thong & Hat Patong . 635 Ko Ra . .. 599 Hat Kamala . 639 Khao Sok National Park . 600 Hat Surin . 640 Ao Bang Thao . 642 SURVIVAL Sirinat National Park . 644 GUIDE Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Responsible Travel . 758 Forest Reserve . 646 Thalang District . 646 Directory A-Z . 763 Krabi Province . 647 Transport . 774 Krabi Town . 647 Health . 781 Ao Nang . 651 Language . 787 Hat Noppharat Thara . 654 Railay . .. 655 Ko Phi-Phi Don . 660 Ko Phi-Phi Leh . 668 Ko Jum & Ko Si Boya . 669 Ko Lanta . 670 Trang Province . 680 Trang . 680 Trang Beaches . 683 Trang Islands . .. 684 SPECIAL Satun Province . 689 FEATURES Satun . .. 689 Off the Beaten Track Pak Bara . 692 Map . 38 Ko Bulon Leh . 692 Wat Phra Kaew in 3D . 62 Ko Tarutao Marine National Park . 693 Wat Pho in 3D . 64 Food Spotters Guide . 738 RAILAY P655 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 33 Itineraries THAILAND Khao Yai National Park Ayuthaya É ÷# •# É •# Kanchanaburi É É #_ BANGKOK CAMBODIA MYANMAR VIETNAM 1 WEEK Bangkok & Around If time is not on your side, you can still explore jungles, temples and Thai culture – they are all within easy reach of Bangkok. After a quick look around the capital’s major temples and markets and hitting its top restaurants, embark on the wonderfully scenic train ride to Kanchanaburi. Here, enjoy a dip in the seven-tiered Erawan waterfall before visiting the Hellfire Pass Memorial, a poignant tribute to the thousands of prisoners of war who died making the Death Rail- way during WWII. Nearby forests are ideal for short hikes or adventure activities, such as ziplining over the forest canopies or giving elephants a bath in the River Kwai. Next, jump in a minivan bound for Ayuthaya and cycle around the impressive ruins of this erstwhile capital. Finally, head over to Khao Yai National Park (transiting through Pak Chong). Spend a day hiking through the jungle in search of elephants and tigers and a night camping under the stars before winding your way back to Bangkok. 34 MYANMAR Hǎinán •# Chiang Mai (CHINA) B a y o f B e n g a l É PLAN YOUR TRIP É –# LAOS THAILAND É #_ BANGKOK # – CAMBODIA É IT A n d a m a n G u l f o f VIETNAM I NERAR S e a T h a i l a n d •# Ko Tao •#Ko Pha-Ngan •# Ko Samui I ES ES S O U T H I N D I A N C H I N A O C E A N S E A INDONESIA •# 2 •# WEEKS Thailand’s Highlights Thanks to expanded domestic air travel in the kingdom, you can zip from the mountains to the city to the beach with ease. Start off in Bangkok, where you can master the public transit system, visit the gleam- ing temples of Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho, explore the shopping centres and party like a rock star. Getting lost in Bangkok is an under-appreciated pastime and neighbour- hoods like Chinatown have people-packed streets where you’ll see the weird and the wonderful. Fly (or take the scenic train) to Chiang Mai, which can keep you busy for several days with its Thai cooking classes, temples, monk chats, markets and fabulous food. Take a road trip to the surrounding countryside, where you can hike to hill-tribe villages, meet rescued elephants and zipline through the forest. Don’t forget to visit the cool highlands of Doi Suthep or Doi Inthanon, two famous northern mountains. Ready for some beach time? Take a direct flight from Chiang Mai south to the tropical island of Ko Samui, where you can choose to live it up in a five-star resort or villa, or relax in a low-key beach bungalow in one of the island’s quieter corners (yes, fortunately some still exist). Make a day trip to uninhabited Ang Thong Marine National Marine Park before a stop at Ko Pha-Ngan; an easy boat trip from Ko Samui. Head to one of its famous Full Moon Parties, or time your visit to miss the crowds and enjoy some laid-back hammock hanging instead. Next door is tiny Ko Tao, Thailand’s diving-certification headquarters; there are plenty of shallow reefs near the shore for snorkellers, too. Head back to Samui to fly on to your next destination, or make your way back to Bangkok for some last-minute shopping. 35 NIGEL KILLEEN / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / KILLEEN NIGEL PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES ES ANDREW WATSON / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / WATSON ANDREW Top: Wat Phra Kaew (p61), Bangkok Bottom: Monk Chat session (p328) at Wat Chedi Luang (p311), Chiang Mai 36 #_ BANGKOK •# Hua Hin É PLAN YOUR TRIP MYANMAR CAMBODIA •# Prachuap Khiri Khan É A N D A M A N S E A f# •#Ko Tao •# Ko Pha-Ngan IT Khao Sok f# •# Ko Samui G U L F O F VIETNAM I National Park T H A I L A N D NERAR É #÷ Similan Islands •# I •#Krabi ES ES Phuket •# •# •# Ko Lanta Ko Phi-Phi f# •#Trang Islands f# Ko Lipe•# 3 WEEKS Best of Southern Thailand Hitting all of Thailand’s top beaches in one trip isn’t easy, but with some serious island- hopping you can do it and still have bags of hammock time.